Quote:
Originally Posted by BroDoze
Very interesting. Great post - thanks!
I’ve spent many thousands with Nick at ResoNix. It’s helps to catch him in a good mood. 
I’d definitely be down for a multi-channel intercept device for $350 or whatever. I always think of when I’m backing out of my garage or something and my right and left rears independently proximity-bong when I’m inches from something (same with the fronts) - I don’t want to lose that.
But “claims to intercept the input signal before it gets processed by the stock HK amps. If the claims are true then we get “a full range digital signal that features none of the OEM processing” sure sounds amazing, doesn’t it? The holy grail.
I figured the underset “subs” were x’d over somewhere up the chain, as I think I actually tried running them full range and heard zero change. They’re quite worthless, actually - especially with a powered trunk sub. Sure wish we had a 6.5” driver in the door or kick - holy crap balls that’d be a game changer for the front stage. Even with my aftermarket BT midranges there’s a HUGE midbass gap there. Midbass is the hardest frequency range to reproduce and BMW didn’t even pretend to give us a a starting place there.
On another topic, I physically disconnect my rear side speakers as I’m a firm believer in, the fewer cones (ESPECIALLY in the rear) the cleaner the sound. I don’t want “surround sound” in my vehicles - never have. I want an insanely tight, clean, powerful front stage with perfect imaging and all frequencies represented with ease. Rear sides do nothing to help that, and I’d honestly physically disconnect my rear deck speakers, except I’d lose my proximity-bongs. So I fade 100% to the front. By fading 100% to the front I’m still unsure if that negatively impacts my line-out for my trunk sub. |
Do you have any tips for the sound deadening process?
I always start with the environment. I would've gone with resonix but decided to go with a newer entry in the 120mil silless.
Here's what I have so far. 120mil dead mat for the sheet metal. Foam to treat over and potentially use as vapor barrier. Speaker rings to isolate the drivers and stop panel buzz. I also have quite a bit of thinsulate 3in batting to fill voids.
Gonna start with the doors and trunk, eventually I'll have to tear out the rear sides because that speaker is buzzing on the driver side. I could ask bmw to fix it but frankly I hate trying to convince dealers to do warranty work on all the small noises I hear.
Longer term will add sub first then look at amp and speakers when you all have paved the way for me
