[kevinG87]

Anyone with Ohlins DFV that having this oil leak issue?
These were just fitted and drove around for less then 500 miles. Already some oil leak for both front dampers.

[ZPD]

oh wow
Can you notice any differences in the way it drives?

[Ronin76]

How did you even know to look and see if there was a leak?

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by ZPD

oh wow
Can you notice any differences in the way it drives?

I do feel unbalance and the front do hop up and down alot more.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by Ronin76

How did you even know to look and see if there was a leak?

This was my after driving inspection to make sure everything was installed correctly.

[maxwell smart]

I'm wondering if there is a coating on the shock shaft to prevent corrosion during storage and keep the seal head properly lubricated. I would wash the oil off the shock body and then watch for additional seepage.
I just noticed in the photo the side loading spring looks to be 180 degrees out of the proper orientation. If I'm right about the spring , maybe the shaft is flexing and letting pressure out of the shock body.

[maxwell smart]

Research side loading strut spring , having them 180 degrees out exaggerates the problem the design is attempting to remedy. If the shock is binding, the seal is getting excessive pressure on one side, causing the other side to let fluid past.

[kevinG87]

Update: Spoke to Technical support from Ohlins. This oil like is assemply grease that break down as the shock get hotter. This is normal and Ohlins advised to clean them off for couple of time. If the problem still comeback then give them a call and replace under warranty.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by maxwell smart

I'm wondering if there is a coating on the shock shaft to prevent corrosion during storage and keep the seal head properly lubricated. I would wash the oil off the shock body and then watch for additional seepage.
I just noticed in the photo the side loading spring looks to be 180 degrees out of the proper orientation. If I'm right about the spring , maybe the shaft is flexing and letting pressure out of the shock body.

I adjusted the spring down to take a clear picture of the area.

[maxwell smart]

Okay sweet Ohlins contacted you back so quickly.
https://eibach.com/products/eibach-replacement-line

Kevin can you take a look at the link about the front spring .
If your spring has a lopsided effect the wide part has to be to the outside.
maybe I'm seeing it wrong

[maxwell smart]

I have one more suggestion,
do you still have the original front shocks and springs.
look at the lower spring perch and notice the rubber insulator forces the spring to be held in the correct orientation.
If you don't have those anymore peek at a car that is still stock.
The forces sent thru the shock are attempting to bow the shock as it compresses . because of the angle of the mcpherson strut geometry and all the other work the strut has to do.
with the spring arranged with the widest part outboard you cancel out the forces.
hope this helps
jeff

[m2not1LE]

Originally Posted by maxwell smart

Research side loading strut spring , having them 180 degrees out exaggerates the problem the design is attempting to remedy. If the shock is binding, the seal is getting excessive pressure on one side, causing the other side to let fluid past.

Odds are that this is just excess grease that's applied to the outer housing threads to ease height adjustments...

The printed side of the springs are facing outward, which is correct.

[m2not1LE]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

I do feel unbalance and the front do hop up and down alot more.

A lot of that will depend on how the compression/rebound adjustment is set.

[maxwell smart]

cool, thanks for confirming the spring orientation.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by m2not1LE

A lot of that will depend on how the compression/rebound adjustment is set.

This is true and I have adjusted the front to be 10 clicks and rear is 11 clicks. A softer rear to reduce the oversteer.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by m2not1LE

Odds are that this is just excess grease that's applied to the outer housing threads to ease height adjustments...

The printed side of the springs are facing outward, which is correct.

Check out this video on youtube where he disassembled the sturt for the F series ( same sturt style for the g series) we can see it is all luped with greece in there. If any actual sturt oil leak, it would leak from the bottom not on the top.

https://youtu.be/EcuWrqjpIOM?si=7EiLqEn2KAHkeG2P

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by maxwell smart

I have one more suggestion,
do you still have the original front shocks and springs.
look at the lower spring perch and notice the rubber insulator forces the spring to be held in the correct orientation.
If you don't have those anymore peek at a car that is still stock.
The forces sent thru the shock are attempting to bow the shock as it compresses . because of the angle of the mcpherson strut geometry and all the other work the strut has to do.
with the spring arranged with the widest part outboard you cancel out the forces.
hope this helps
jeff

Hey Max. So this is the spring orientation of the original sturt. The top edge of the spring aligned perfectly with the grove on the bottom of the strut. I have orientated my spring to be like this and testing it out. I dont think it will make any differences but i will report back of any finding.

[maxwell smart]

Sweet , you got it , the way you have them now reduces friction by canceling out the side forces. they should be more compliant now. and last longer.
WOW, such a cool setup.
cant wait to hear more about it.

[m2not1LE]

Originally Posted by maxwell smart

Sweet , you got it , the way you have them now reduces friction by canceling out the side forces. they should be more compliant now. and last longer.
WOW, such a cool setup.
cant wait to hear more about it.

What did he "get?" Original photos he posted show correct Ohlins spring orientation per information I previously posted.

His dampers were never leaking to begin with - just some residual thread lubricant to ease ride height adjustment.

Ohlins information makes no mention of any of this, so why recommend changing their spring orientation? I'd have never touched the spring without first contacting Ohlins. Ohlins units are completely different than the factory set-up, meaning attempting to replicate OEM spring orientation (being perceived or real) is unwarranted and perhaps counterproductive.

Ohlins information here: https://www.ohlinsusa.com/files/ohli...N_AUTO_R_T.pdf

[m2not1LE]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

This is true and I have adjusted the front to be 10 clicks and rear is 11 clicks. A softer rear to reduce the oversteer.

30 clicks from a single (vs. dual) adjustment knob if I understand correctly. What information did you use to decide on 10 front and 11 rear?

My '99 1LE Z28 came from the factory with double adjustable Koni Sport "Yellows." I researched what the guys in autocross were running for both compression and rebound settings front and rear prior to deciding on settings. Car handled better overall than as delivered from the factory.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by m2not1LE

30 clicks from a single (vs. dual) adjustment knob if I understand correctly. What information did you use to decide on 10 front and 11 rear?

My '99 1LE Z28 came from the factory with double adjustable Koni Sport "Yellows." I researched what the guys in autocross were running for both compression and rebound settings front and rear prior to deciding on settings. Car handled better overall than as delivered from the factory.

The adjustments are based on ohlins setup data. I started it off at 10 clicks all around. From there I started to test drive the car on various roads, cannons, tracks and taylor the adjustments based on how i feel the car should handle like the way i want it to. After many hours of testing, I finally set it to 10 front and 11 rear. The rear axle is set to be softer then the front so the car can find it grip while accelerating. While the front can be a bit stiffer to reduce oversteer when in the conner. The way it is now is pretty good, the car is more direct and firm. This is why i went with coilover so i can have individual setting for my driving style. I might adding more psi for the rear wheels so see how it feel.
Spring origientation don’t really matter much for coilover setup, because simply put the top and bottom spring are flat out so you dont really have to put them in a certain way. I took max’s advise just to see how it is.

[maxwell smart]

Sorry, I thought I was looking at a side loading spring. My bad.