[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by Fastfwd

Thanks for the reply! Not sure if I'm still following the particulars of these additive packages, etc. but your insight may raise question if the factory oil fill is specifically formulated to best serve the engine through those first break-in miles vs whatever off the shelf oil you might purchase from BMW or otherwise. I imagine it's a guessing game if that formulation benefits the engine more than getting that metal out of the engine ASAP.

I may or may not do an early oil change. In the least this may be no more than a 3k mile change. I haven't yet even seen any instruction on how to tackle this DIY.

Don't laugh, but I was searching for the dipstick after I got my break-in service performed just to double check their work. Ford technicians apparently famously weren't filling the Coyote engines fully when the oil capacity increased to the 10 quarts it holds.

Another tale of how reading the owner's manual front to back is probably the best practice. I still haven't to be honest. I usually just keep it handy for reference. The M may deserve a little better effort.

The difference in magnesium and moly content in the factory fill oil vs. the factory recommended oil to use going forward suggests the factory fill oil is a "special" blend. Well, the extra moly can be obtained by adding some of this to the engine oil. SWEPCO 502 oil improver is one moly additive.

But the low magnesium content AFAIK the only be explanation I can think of is it is low because it was *not* in the oil to begin with.

The early oil change is not so much to remove metal but to remove the oil that has suffered some considerable degradation arising from the special conditions a new engine subjects the oil to.

About metal...The filter catches the metal particles. However, there is a concern that the high/over pressure valve in the oil filter could be forced open and unfiltered oil could be circulated through the engine. The thought of the oil in the filter housing/canister clearly laden with metal particles being allowed to circulate through the engine in the event the high pressure bypass valve opens gives me the shivers...

Funny you mentioned the Ford Coyote engine not being properly filled with oil. I ran into this same problem way back with my 1996 Mustang GT with the "new" 4.6l SOHC V8 engine. Its oil capacity was 6 quarts of oil. Almost every dealer service had the car returned to me with the level low. Another quart brought the level up to full. The techs were only refilling with 5 quarts when the engine required 6 quarts. That Mustang was my last Ford...

My SOP is to with a new vehicle at least read the break in section, the oil section, the tire section (for info in proper tire inflation pressures), and the servicing schedule.

[Lagunatic]

At 4k miles at the one year mark, BMW computer has flagged for a new oil change in 2 months which is a year after my break-in oil change.

[ifound2pac]

Originally Posted by keonigt

I would never go to the dealer for a not free oil change. Just go to any lube shop that will do it for $100. Not worth $400 at the dealer

If you happen to go to the dealer for service before the 10k mark, you would just pay the cost for the oil change, correct?

And then the service at 10k would be free and covered?

[blue135]

Don't automatically overlook the dealer. 1200 mi change on my non-M was less than I could buy components from FCP by about 20%. Problem was getting dealer personnel to understand I wanted oil changed and was willing to pay for it.