[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

Did they all have that same curve to them?

Are all the various EQ settings just summed to the output eventually anyway, in effect? Input EQ, Virtual Channel EQ, and Output EQ all add up to give you hopefully what you want at the actual output of the amp, I assume.

I just looked at the sound profiles and yes they all have the same high shelf, except for the subwoofers which are left alone. I guess this might be their way of compensating for the dip in the Input signal rather than doing an input EQ.

Your observation does seem correct, at the end of the day if the sum of all these EQ settings is good, maybe that is all that matters. I’d love to see an RTA of the final result, and I will definitely test the BimmerTech sound profiles as soon as I can.

[BMW DIY Guy]

I deeply appreciate all the work yall have put into this! Do we have a master file setup now that can be shared out?

[BroDoze]

^^ I think Tom is the closest.
I’m sure he’ll share when he’s ready.
Also, you all may decide on some measurement standard for seating position.
Make note of distance from centerline dash/screen (not steering wheel) and distance from roof - between the ears. That should give a reference as to where the sweet spot is.
A good setup allows for are fairly large, forgiving listening bubble.

[///MoT]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

Did they all have that same curve to them?

Are all the various EQ settings just summed to the output eventually anyway, in effect? Input EQ, Virtual Channel EQ, and Output EQ all add up to give you hopefully what you want at the actual output of the amp, I assume.

Yes, they all did have the same curve to them except for the sub channels. So I gotta believe the setting was intentional, just can't figure out the reason.

And yes, I think all the various EQ settings are just summed to the output eventually. But that's just a guess on my part.


-Tom

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

^^ I think Tom is the closest.
I’m sure he’ll share when he’s ready.
Also, you all may decide on some measurement standard for seating position.
Make note of distance from centerline dash/screen (not steering wheel) and distance from roof - between the ears. That should give a reference as to where the sweet spot is.
A good setup allows for are fairly large, forging listening bubble.

Ya if we have a standard for determining seating position, it would be easy to create a few tunes. I will get a friend who is 5’10 to put their seating position into my seat memory when I get the car, then ask someone who is 5’5 put theirs into memory. I’m 6’4, so that should give a good range. As you note there is a little leeway since none of us are perfectly rigid. I know I bob my head and body to the music.

[kenkamm]

Originally Posted by AdonisP91

I’d love to see an RTA of the final result, and I will definitely test the BimmerTech sound profiles as soon as I can.

How close are you to getting your car AdonisP91? I think I read at some point you mentioned the March time frame? You must be getting excited. It really is a fantastic automobile.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

How close are you to getting your car AdonisP91? I think I read at some point you mentioned the March time frame? You must be getting excited. It really is a fantastic automobile.

My production status is 190, so I think it must be on a ship already or close to it. It says dispatched from factory. So maybe 2-3 more weeks? The wait has been agonizing but it will be so fun when I get it and start all my DIY projects.

[BroDoze]

The wait is freakin' awful.

I got stuck at port for 8 weeks on my 2025.

All of CO's first 2025s got stuck with me.

Glad that is over!

[AdonisP91]

BroDoze not sure if you already know this, you likely do, but there are apps for local AM/FM stations. Here in Canada we have Radio Player Canada and iHeart Radio. I tested both and they work with CarPlay, so presumably they work with Android Auto too.

This means with your preamp box if you play FM through the app, you have a digital FM station, so no more problems on the lower bandwidth you mentioned above. I am sure they have these apps in the USA too.

When I checked with Radio Player Canada, which appears to be free, they had all my local stations. I don’t use FM much these days, but I just wanted to point out the preamp device doesn’t mean you have to put up with compromised AM/FM.

[BroDoze]

Hey thanks ^^

I didn’t even think of that. I’ll look into it!! Cheers!

[IanH]

I don't know if this is the best one, and they try to get you to buy their premium service all the time, but I use tunein to stream radio.

[kenkamm]

AdonisP91 are you getting the preamp?

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

AdonisP91 are you getting the preamp?

I’m not sure. No one else seemed interested, so for now I think I might just wait until I have the car and I test everything.

[snekjumpr]

That’s my thinking too based on the price. The UP10 + monoblock amp + upgraded drivers is sounding great so far.

For the trunk subs, should it make any difference whether I run crossovers or bass filters on them from the UP10 rather than the monoblock amp that’s powering them?

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by snekjumpr

That’s my thinking too based on the price. The UP10 + monoblock amp + upgraded drivers is sounding great so far.

For the trunk subs, should it make any difference whether I run crossovers or bass filters on them from the UP10 rather than the monoblock amp that’s powering them?

With the UP10 you will have more precise control. You can select the type of crossovers as well as the slope. Few amps give many options, usually it is just 1 kind of crossover and slope and you just have a dial to chose the frequency. But assuming the same crossover point and type, then it shouldn’t matter if it comes from either the DSP or mono amp side.

Personally I would just leave everything open on the mono amp and control it all from the DSP.

[snekjumpr]

Thanks! That’s how I have it now, but I’ll have to go back and double check on the VX1000. Setting gains was a little tricky too without a LOC in the mix.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by snekjumpr

Thanks! That’s how I have it now, but I’ll have to go back and double check on the VX1000. Setting gains was a little tricky too without a LOC in the mix.

One can get the gain approximately right with a simple multimeter. If someone wants it exactly right they could spend a little for a cheap oscilloscope.

Something like this could work:
Cheap Osciloscope

But even better many new amps have a built in clip detection light that makes it easy to set the gain.

Do you have an up10 DSP and the VX1000 powering the sub or is the VX1000 your DSP and you have a separate mono amp for the sub?

I haven’t used the Tün software but surely there is clipping detection in there somewhere.

[snekjumpr]

Yes, UP10 as DSP and VX for sub. TUN does have a digital clip indicator, but last time I tried it, it didn’t seem to light up, so I left the gain at 7 out of 10, which is where is was when I was using a LOC and what sounded good by ear. I’ll have to give it another whirl, and maybe try that scope if it’s still not working in TUN. Thanks for the tip!

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by snekjumpr

Yes, UP10 as DSP and VX for sub. TUN does have a digital clip indicator, but last time I tried it, it didn’t seem to light up, so I left the gain at 7 out of 10, which is where is was when I was using a LOC and what sounded good by ear. I’ll have to give it another whirl, and maybe try that scope if it’s still not working in TUN. Thanks for the tip!

I’d probably just leave it as is then. That is really high end stuff you have so if the clipping light never came on and the current gain level is good enough, I’d call it happy days.

[BroDoze]

Loving the sound of my setup. It’s still snowstorms every other day here, so it sits in the garage, but I sit in it almost every night.
This has allowed my EQ taste to normalize over the course of many days / weeks, and I’m able to make very small adjustments to the sound. Have it pretty dialed.
Wish I didn’t have to have a laptop to make these small adjustments, but hopefully I’ll be done messing for good, soon.

Seriously thinking about swapping my non-resonated mid-pipes for their resonated version so I can enjoy the audio more while I’m driving.