[603BlueM2]

Originally Posted by OneTwo3

This is the spec I was thinking of ordering. Manual, buckets and carbon roof.

Why do you regret the auto?

I just think the manual ups the fun factor.

[im480hp]

I have manual but use car for weekend. For daily drive in city automatic, for weekend like 2-nd car manual.

[nathanwl2004@gmail.com]

I just ordered a manual M2.Ive never owned an auto trans performance car and I thought maybe I'm getting to that stage in my life where I would prefer an auto as a daily. I test drove a couple different cars before finally choosing the m2. I liked the CLA45 AMG and strongly considered it authentic I drove a 24 6MT M2. No comparison. It was so much more engaging to row it through the gears. At one point I owned 3 cars and they were all manuals and I have missed dallying a manual ever since. Long live the manual!!!

[Razor2010]

Originally Posted by DrewNewM2

You can find the vids or forum posts but There are plenty of tuned manual g80 making high HP and TQ. You can probably get away with 800nm or around 600 lb ft for a while if you baby it with a tune but eventually will need a clutch upgrade. I think the PTB clutch is rated to like 1100 nm or 800 lb ft which is somewhere over 700 wheel torque. Haven’t seen any other transmission issues besides slipping clutches.

At that power level, traction would be the biggest issue.

Interesting, great to hear if true. So $3k or so for an upgraded clutch and one should be confident that the manual gear box will hold up long term running 600 ft. Lbs. area.

[SeanJP]

Originally Posted by nathanwl2004@gmail.com

I just ordered a manual M2.Ive never owned an auto trans performance car and I thought maybe I'm getting to that stage in my life where I would prefer an auto as a daily. I test drove a couple different cars before finally choosing the m2. I liked the CLA45 AMG and strongly considered it authentic I drove a 24 6MT M2. No comparison. It was so much more engaging to row it through the gears. At one point I owned 3 cars and they were all manuals and I have missed dallying a manual ever since. Long live the manual!!!

I would imagine with the break-in period you could only do a "light" test drive on these cars. If you go WOT you can destroy the engine.

[fzr100098]

haha no you won't, old wives tale - periodic hard throttle is excellent for break-in, but you want to avoid heat soak...how many engines are broken in on a dyno and make excellent power? Not what I would do for best results but grandma highway break in can cause poor ring sealing and blowby...seen this many times. I broke this engine in hard and doesn't use a drop of oil

As far as manual vs ZF - I'm all about power. Want a slick shifting manual? Buy an S2000, but don't race anyone in it

[Matthewricha]

Well in the end I bought a mint, extremely low mileage Manual with Bucket seats and am over the moon with the car. Pulls like a train in 3rd on the Motorway!

[beren]

If you have to ask, get the auto.

[930416]

Originally Posted by fzr100098

haha no you won't, old wives tale - periodic hard throttle is excellent for break-in, but you want to avoid heat soak...how many engines are broken in on a dyno and make excellent power? Not what I would do for best results but grandma highway break in can cause poor ring sealing and blowby...seen this many times. I broke this engine in hard and doesn't use a drop of oil

As far as manual vs ZF - I'm all about power. Want a slick shifting manual? Buy an S2000, but don't race anyone in it

Dyno break-in is different because you can load up the dyno to maintain a target engine load and rpm, which is rarely near or at redline. Imagine driving on the street while holding the brakes. Like a very long brake boost. So instead of brakes, you load up the rolling resistance.

So you’re not wrong in that boost helps seats rings. And highway/steady state driving should be avoided when possible. But excessive/high rpm should definitely be avoided during break-in.

[SeanJP]

Originally Posted by fzr100098

haha no you won't, old wives tale - periodic hard throttle is excellent for break-in, but you want to avoid heat soak...how many engines are broken in on a dyno and make excellent power? Not what I would do for best results but grandma highway break in can cause poor ring sealing and blowby...seen this many times. I broke this engine in hard and doesn't use a drop of oil

As far as manual vs ZF - I'm all about power. Want a slick shifting manual? Buy an S2000, but don't race anyone in it

You do know that (when new) the S58 does NOT come with normal motor oil, and instead is filled with a special break-in fluid, right?

[Trogster]

My dog prefers the automatic. He gets annoyed when he rests his head on my hand on the center console when I keep reaching for the shifter

[fzr100098]

Originally Posted by SeanJP

You do know that (when new) the S58 does NOT come with normal motor oil, and instead is filled with a special break-in fluid, right?

Wrong - I specifically asked the shop foreman this question when I took the car in for initial service. Same oil just has a slightly different additive package.

[aerobod]

From oil analysis that has been done on these forums on the S58, the characteristics of the oil are the same as the standard 0w30 synthetic, but with added molybdenum and perhaps some zinc. The engine assembly lube will include zinc and molybdenum which will ease the initial start until the oil reaches the journal bearings and then provide the extra coating on the cams and followers for their 20 minutes or so of initial break-in. A first oil analysis before the break-in oil change should reflect both the standard 0w30 synthetic fill plus the assembly lube.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by aerobod

From oil analysis that has been done on these forums on the S58, the characteristics of the oil are the same as the standard 0w30 synthetic, but with added molybdenum and perhaps some zinc. The engine assembly lube will include zinc and molybdenum which will ease the initial start until the oil reaches the journal bearings and then provide the extra coating on the cams and followers for their 20 minutes or so of initial break-in. A first oil analysis before the break-in oil change should reflect both the standard 0w30 synthetic fill plus the assembly lube.

One aspect of the break-in oil analysis that had puzzled me was the low magnesium. The BMW LL01-FE 0w30 oil is not low magnesium, but is high magnesium and medium calcium. I believe the factory fill is actually either LL04 0w30 or LL12-FE 0w30, both of these oils are low magnesium / high calcium with a formulation suitable for the S58 fitted with petrol particulate filters, as found mainly in Europe. The LL01-FE oils are not compatible with the particulate filters.

I believe they just fill all cars with the Euro compatible oils at the factory, plus the additional molybdenum from the engine assembly lube.

[chris719]

Originally Posted by aerobod

One aspect of the break-in oil analysis that had puzzled me was the low magnesium. The BMW LL01-FE 0w30 oil is not low magnesium, but is high magnesium and medium calcium. I believe the factory fill is actually either LL04 0w30 or LL12-FE 0w30, both of these oils are low magnesium / high calcium with a formulation suitable for the S58 fitted with petrol particulate filters, as found mainly in Europe. The LL01-FE oils are not compatible with the particulate filters.

I believe they just fill all cars with the Euro compatible oils at the factory, plus the additional molybdenum from the engine assembly lube.

Exactly correct. BMW oil in EU is Shell and I’m strongly suspecting they fill every car with LL12FE compliant oils even if the target market is NA since we have low sulfur fuel now. However you will note that BMW TPT LL01FE is actually a mid saps additive package despite the spec being full saps. Why? Not sure but maybe to minimize issues for lazy dealers who fill everything indiscriminately and not harm OPF.

[fzr100098]

I'll probably go to Amsoil Signature 5W-30 at 5k miles - not a big fan of Shell