02-09-2023, 01:24 PM | #1 |
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wheel hub centric rings - safe?
i have heard both sides of the argument
some say the wheel hub must be same size as axle hub, not to use hub centric rings some say use aluminum rings not plastic retailers says use plastic don't use aluminum, it's the bolts that hold the wheel in place with friction can anyone comment before i make a mistake? (used plastic ring for a workhorse subaru for 60,000miles and wheel corner has a creak for 10,000miles and dealer can't figure out what it is!) |
02-09-2023, 01:44 PM | #2 |
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My BBS wheels came with a metal centric rings. I also had BBS wheels on my previous M235i which came with metal centric rings.
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02-09-2023, 01:48 PM | #3 |
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The lug/lug-bolt holds the wheel on the hub ring (in BMW's case, a slotted ring).
The hub ring holds the wheel on the car. As long as there is NO space between the wheel hub center and the slotted ring, either by exact fitment, aluminum, or composite you'll be fine. The issue arises when there is space between the wheel hub center bore and the car's hub center, transferring centrifugal forces to the lug bolts or studs. My Lotus came with metal hub-centric rings as well, but that's a bit old-school these days. Composite is absolutely fine. |
02-09-2023, 04:32 PM | #5 | |
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Plastic, composite or aluminum is fine for street use, for those seeing a ton of track/brake use - plastic will deteriorate due to high temps.
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02-09-2023, 04:41 PM | #6 |
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That suggests metal is the way to go but due to heat cycles that you are implying, maybe I'll just have to look harder for matching hub sizes and not rely on rings
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02-09-2023, 04:42 PM | #7 |
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02-09-2023, 04:43 PM | #8 |
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due to heat cycles that you are implying, maybe I'll just have to look harder for matching hub sizes and not rely on rings as expanding and contracting might not be symmetrical and one side might end up buldging?
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02-09-2023, 04:45 PM | #10 |
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That's not my experience with my Subaru. Over time it's creaking. Re mounting and re torquing changes the creak but it's still there. Unfortunately I don't have the originals (crashed) to remount to see if it's go away. Dealer says nothing wrong with the car side of things
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02-09-2023, 04:46 PM | #11 |
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Plastic or composite rings shouldn't compromise use. Only a problem when remounting wheels, if the rings are damaged. They are not taking radial weight transfer when torqued correctly.
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02-09-2023, 04:48 PM | #12 | |
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02-09-2023, 04:48 PM | #13 | |
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Your wheel manufacturer (assuming you're running aftermarket wheels) should be able to provide the needed rings. If not - they are easily found at most wheel shops, and even amazon/ebay. You'll need to measure the wheel centerbore and wheel hub (66.6mm on G-chassis) to get your sizes.
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02-09-2023, 04:50 PM | #14 | |
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02-09-2023, 05:02 PM | #16 |
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Its not a bad thing, guilty of it myself most times. But you're doing the right thing and asking questions first.
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02-10-2023, 12:49 PM | #18 |
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I have always viewed the hub centric rings as just a way to more quickly install the wheels squarely. It is more of an install aid that isn't required if the wheel is installed carefully and properly.
One important side note that is often missed that I didn't realize for a long time: Wheel centers being true and specific is actually more critical for tire install and balancing than putting the wheel on the car. I realized this when I wanted to use some 7 series wheels on my e70. I considered using a router to enlarge the centers and rely on the lugs but after some research I realized there would be no way to balance the wheel if the center isn't perfect! As for using hub centric rings in general The center ring also prevents someone from quickly putting a wheel on with the lugs not centered and cranking them down incorrectly (by not tightening in a star pattern). If the wheel is installed carefully then there is no real advantage to them. Where I see the rings being important is when wheels are changed quickly at the track and there isn't time to install the wheel meticulously. IMO Rings also aren't really great for fast wheel changes either though because they can fall out, etc. I think if used for that purpose they should probably be high temp glued into the wheel.... (coat the spacer/wheel center with glue then install on the car until set) After that there is no fumbling with the ring. For my X5 space saver on the e90 I have a plastic 74.1->72.6 ring RTVed into the wheel to make it more or less a direct fitting wheel. It isn't necessary but I had the rings laying around and it only took a minute to do. I did this before I installed the tire on the new rim and even took it to discount tire that way and they had no issues putting the tire on. For a real racing setup where the hub gets super hot then aluminum makes sense with some higher temp glue. I have seen pictures of melted plastic rings from track days. -Rich
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02-10-2023, 01:06 PM | #20 |
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02-10-2023, 01:06 PM | #21 | |
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I got aluminum now, but it was a pain to find them perfect, but they're out there. Shawn |
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02-11-2023, 04:40 PM | #22 |
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Seems the basics have been covered here. I would also suggest running plastic if you are in a winter weather road salt environment, or a decent amount of anti-seize.
Ran plastic on a track car and got a bit wonky after a season or two, at $20 a set not that much of a headache. |
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