[oldbmwtech]

There is a few post about DYI oil changes but no one here has mentioned SIB 11-02-20. Oil priming before starting engine. Just wondering if everyone knows about this.

[Pentland]

Originally Posted by oldbmwtech

There is a few post about DYI oil changes but no one here has mentioned SIB 11-02-20. Oil priming before starting engine. Just wondering if everyone knows about this.

Don’t think it’s applicable to an oil change.

[TJZ67201]

Originally Posted by Pentland

Don’t think it’s applicable to an oil change.

Definitely not. It specifically states this is the process for replacing or rebuilding a WHOLE engine. Definitely not needed for a basic oil change

[Wasp_Factory]

Interesting document. I undertook my own oil replacement. I warmed the engine, took a reading (showed full on iDrive), undid the sump plug and went for a cup of tea for 20 mins. When I got back, there was a slow drip of residual oil into the pan every 3 seconds to so, so probably as much as you'll ever be able to get out.

I got 6.4 litres of oil out, suggesting that there was 0.8 litres of oil left in the system that would be difficult to fully drain unless you dismantle the engine. Empty is never actually empty during an oil change.

[oldbmwtech]

I know there are no engine repairs for an oil change however read the last line.

Engine Repairs:
This procedure is used when the engine oil supply circuit is interrupted during a repair. This applies to

VANOS gears
Timing chain tensioner
Bed plate resealing
Engine oil pump
Engine oil filter housing
Engine oil cooler
Any engine repair that interrupts the engine oil supply circuit of the engine

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by oldbmwtech

There is a few post about DYI oil changes but no one here has mentioned SIB 11-02-20. Oil priming before starting engine. Just wondering if everyone knows about this.

Not necessary for an engine after an oil/filter service. At least I've never come across any factory calling for such a post oil/filter service oil priming operation.

But SOP for a new engine or a rebuilt engine.

Even though I was very generous with the engine oil during assembly of the engines I rebuilt before I started the engine I used a drill motor to spin the oil pump to ensure it primed -- I smeared Vasoline on the gear teeth to help with this -- and then continued to run the drill motor/spin the oil pump until oil appeared at the valve train. The drill motor also was working harder do to oil pressure build up.

But for just an oil change there is no oil priming necessary. The oil pump will prime upon post oil change engine start and there is enough residual oil to provide sufficient lubrication until oil from the pump resumes flowing.

The oil arrives very quickly. In part because upon engine start almost invariably the engine RPMs shoot up to around 1K. This helps ensure quick oil pump prime and oil pump oil flow. It also helps ensure the formation a film of oil in the plain bearings that prevents metal to metal contact.

[Rdurty2]

This is 100% not done during a simple oil change.

[AlexC2er]

Originally Posted by Wasp_Factory

Interesting document. I undertook my own oil replacement. I warmed the engine, took a reading (showed full on iDrive), undid the sump plug and went for a cup of tea for 20 mins. When I got back, there was a slow drip of residual oil into the pan every 3 seconds to so, so probably as much as you'll ever be able to get out.

I got 6.4 litres of oil out, suggesting that there was 0.8 litres of oil left in the system that would be difficult to fully drain unless you dismantle the engine. Empty is never actually empty during an oil change.

I’m doing mine in a few days, I’m going to put 6.5 L in. On the measurement it’s half way between min and max so I think 6.5 should do it.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by AlexC2er

I’m doing mine in a few days, I’m going to put 6.5 L in. On the measurement it’s half way between min and max so I think 6.5 should do it.

Better is to know how much oil the engine requires to be "full" and at oil change time add that much oil.

With the engine up to temperature drain the oil the factory called for drain time. (Over the years with other cars fitted with an electronic oil level measurement system this has been anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour.)

After the drain interval button up the engine and add the correct amount of oil. The techs have access to the factory data for the car/engine -- with my Porsche cars the engine's oil refill amount was tied to the VIN. This is because it is possible for the engine oil refill amount to change due to a change in the engine or the remote oil tank (for engines using a dry sump oil system). This change in oil capacity takes place so to speak and is noted when the engine is assembled and filled the 1st time with oil.

For measuring the amount of oil that add the techs have a service bay oil gun which has a digital readout.

When I changed my oil I counted empty oil bottles. Twice.

Start engine and as soon as you can check the oil level using the electronic oil measurement system. It should read at Max/OK. This confirms the electronic oil level measurement system is working correctly as it correctly reflects the engine has a known proper quantity of oil in it.

I'll add that the electronic oil level measuring system is almost certainly not able to measure much if any amount of over fill. Thus it is very important when adding oil to add the correct amount but no more.

While the electronic oil level measurement system is reliable they are confirmed working correctly upon every oil/filter service by the above procedure.