[MPR]

Cool idea, let us know how it works.

I don't mind my ramp method and the ramps only cost me $40. I slide under on a piece of cardboard and can complete the drain process with no issue. Not sure why it's inefficient, it takes an extra 60 seconds for the whole process?

[TJZ67201]

Originally Posted by MPR

Cool idea, let us know how it works.

I don't mind my ramp method and the ramps only cost me $40. I slide under on a piece of cardboard and can complete the drain process with no issue. Not sure why it's inefficient, it takes an extra 60 seconds for the whole process?

Will report back how well it works, going to install a front lip splitter this week from AutoID and will be using the JackRod.

Well, what I meant by inefficient was when I did my oil change, I had to jack the car up very high to slide the ramp under. Then lower it putting the weight back onto the suspension. After loosening the drain bolt, I lifted the car again to remove the ramps bc I wanted to drain it while the car was level on the floor. Then jack it back it… screw in the drain bolt…yada yada. So it was just a bit extra work in my case having to lift the car up so high several times

[MPR]

TJZ67201 I gotcha, I don't think a few extra pumps on the floor jack is a big deal and you only have to jack up the car twice — I have the same mindset to keep the car level while draining so I let it back down after removing the plug.

That's a pretty cool thing you found though, you get jack stand reliability out of a floor jack.

Thinking about it, you are probably jacking it up to the higher ramp level if it's high enough to get yourself more room than just resting on ramps would provide.

[danallxt]

Originally Posted by TJZ67201

Instead of using ramps for my next oil change, I got the JackRod. I used MPRs method of jacking and placing ramps under the wheels, but that is kinda inefficient plus doesn’t leave a lot of room under the car with the suspension under load. What do y’all think about these? Seems pretty solid in person, have yet to use it but confirmed it fits my jack.

https://agatools.com/products/jack-rod-stand

Thanks for posting, seems like an excellent idea, i will not get under a car with only a jack holding it, this solves the problem of finding a separate place from the jack point for a block or stand. Kinda pricey. Me i still can't figure why folks jack a car up to then put a ramp under it?

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by danallxt

Thanks for posting, seems like an excellent idea, i will not get under a car with only a jack holding it, this solves the problem of finding a separate place from the jack point for a block or stand. Me i still can't figure why folks jack a car up to then put a ramp under it?

a) Their car is too low to enter the ramp.
b) They're not confident in their driving ability to drive onto and stop at the top of the ramp (I admit it can be a little nerve-wracking if never done before).

[TJZ67201]

I like it because the JackRod acts as first mechanism to hold up the vehicle. Leave a little bit of hydrolic pressure to act as a backup to catch the vehicle if the rod were to ever fail.

The oil drain bolt is more towards the driver side of the car. So you only really need to jack up the front driver side, then lower it while draining. It’s at this point you can work on changing the filter while draining. Honestly, the whole process is pretty easy, aside from picking the correct oil 😂

I had to get BimmerLink to reset the oil life on iDrive 8. So dumb that they removed the ability to reset the oil life by holding the BC button for X-amount of seconds… Haven’t used it yet but BimmerLink confirmed it should work on iD8

[MPR]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

a) Their car is too low to enter the ramp.
b) They're not confident in their driving ability to drive onto and stop at the top of the ramp (I admit it can be a little nerve-wracking if never done before).

Reason 'a' for me..

A ramp is just as easy, if not easier, than dealing with jack stands. When I purchased them I did not realize problem a existed and came up with a workaround by jacking the car up and resting it back down on a ramp.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by MPR

Reason 'a' for me..

A ramp is just as easy, if not easier, than dealing with jack stands. When I purchased them I did not realize problem a existed and came up with a workaround by jacking the car up and resting it back down on a ramp.

My work-around was to have the ramp just a little lower than the garage floor.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

My work-around was to have the ramp just a little lower than the garage floor.

Yeah now that summer is here I may do that. I prefer to be in a closed garage when it's freezing out.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by MPR

Yeah now that summer is here I may do that. I prefer to be in a closed garage when it's freezing out.

Make sure you block the garage door electronic eye so it doesn't accidently close on your hood!

[danallxt]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

Make sure you block the garage door electronic eye so it doesn't accidently close on your hood!

I use the same identical ramps as was shown, no clearance problem, simply place a "preramp" board to drive up on first, no problem.
As far as the discomfort some folks have in their ability to not overdrive the ramp...i guess i can see that.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Bought these Sears ramps off Craigslist a few years ago for $50. The ramp portion is removeable.

To keep the ramps from sliding when I drive up on them, I bought some indoor/outdoor carpeting from HD and then attached the carpet to a 2x4 (wrapping it around the 2x4).

Then for my lower profile cars, I just use some 2x12s to get the ramp portion raised up a bit to clear the air dam/front valence of the car. If you have a circular saw you can put a 45 or 60 degree angle on the wood to make it a smoother transition up. Note that you would not be able to do this with ramps that don't have removeable ramps.

Works great.

I should add that if your tires are much wider than 225s, it will be close to not fitting within the ramp sides. But, there may be something out there for wider tires.

[bobkat09]

[QUOTE=TJZ67201;30217395]I like it because the JackRod acts as first mechanism to hold up the vehicle. Leave a little bit of hydrolic pressure to act as a backup to catch the vehicle if the rod were to ever fail.

The oil drain bolt is more towards the driver side of the car. So you only really need to jack up the front driver side, then lower it while draining. It’s at this point you can work on changing the filter while draining. Honestly, the whole process is pretty easy, aside from picking the correct oil 😂

I had to get BimmerLink to reset the oil life on iDrive 8. So dumb that they removed the ability to reset the oil life by holding the BC button for X-amount of seconds… Haven’t used it yet but BimmerLink confirmed it should work on iD8[/QUOTE


Haven’t tried resetting the service indicator yet but saw this procedure posted

[TJZ67201]

That’s for iDrive 7… not iDrive 8

[advr6]

For those living in Canada I can confirm that the following ramps from Canadian Tire work well. They are wide enough for the 245 section front tires that come with the ZTK package.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...1_rr&rrec=true

[RightYouAreKen]

I've been using some 2x6"s with an angle cut on one end and some tool drawer liner stapled to the bottom as "helper ramps" for years for my lowered cars. They work great to get a little extra clearance to get onto my Rhino Ramps. Works great on the G42 as well. (The carpet under the ramps is so the ramps don't slide on my super smooth garage floor). Much faster than messing with jacks and jackstands for oil changes and other wheels-on maintenance.

[Maxp]

Originally Posted by RightYouAreKen

I've been using some 2x6"s with an angle cut on one end and some tool drawer liner stapled to the bottom as "helper ramps" for years for my lowered cars. They work great to get a little extra clearance to get onto my Rhino Ramps. Works great on the G42 as well. (The carpet under the ramps is so the ramps don't slide on my super smooth garage floor). Much faster than messing with jacks and jackstands for oil changes and other wheels-on maintenance.

I did the same thing with 5/4x6 deck boards. Works great and I didn't have to spend anymore money.

[Fronzdan]

I use 2x 12 wide pressure treated stacked as a ramp. But it’s just as easy for me to use the floor jack, stick the stack of wood under one wheel, roll it around to the other side, jack it up and stick the wood under that side.

I always get nervous I’ll overshoot them trying to drive up lol.

[WilcoJunoHotel]

Based on other posts on this forum, I abandoned the steep steel ramps that I posted above and I bought a pair of these instead:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

No issue with the front air dam on the M240i and no worries overrunning the end of the ramps - you know when you are all the way on them. One foot on the brake and easy does it up the ramp. No stress.

[MPR]

I’m ascared of driving over the ramps. The floor jack method has been working well

[TJZ67201]

I use the floor jack method as well, in combination with the Jack Rod (the whimsy of the name does not escape me). It makes it safe to get under the vehicle while using a Jack instead of relying on just the hydrolic pressure. Makes it easy to lower the vehicle back to level ground to ensure maximum draining and significantly reduces overall time spent fiddling with the ramps

https://a.co/d/244trnI

[vntperformance]

My setup is similar to MPR's but I drive my car onto of 6" 2x4's for added clearance then drive up onto my walmart sourced plastic ramps, once doing so I do the drain and filter just like normal.