[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by canDO_Stef

Those wheels are awesome. Great build!

Thanks! Appreciate the canDO+ unit. Its a game-changer, only going to get better. Love the separate M1 and M2 button associations.

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Those wheels are.. I’ll be in my bunk.

[Mr. Hankey]

CODING

9/7/24 - The Bimmer Utility Wifi Adapter is the ONLY ADAPTER YOU WILL NEED FOR EVERY CODING APP. Save your money on the others. It also works as a direct Ethernet wired connection to a laptop. Works with Bimmercode, Bimmer Utility, Protool, and E-sys.


NOTE: AS of 8/30/24 with BMWs software update (07/24), Protool no longer works for coding my car. I don't know what changed. Some parts of it work, but I can no longer see or code my Body Domain Controller (BDC) which makes it USELESS for me. Not sure if they made a change or BMW did, but with the most recent BMW software update (Sent to my car in August), Protool just doesn't work.

They did respond to my support request saying nothing is locked down, they just need to see the new BMW software and parse it then load it into ProTool so that the CAFDs are up to date with the new software. “It will take some time”….I get it, BMW has been changing a lot of stuff…Still, going to try Bimmer Utility.

I am keeping my instructions here though in case they do manage to update it, but buyer beware, Protool seems to be great for older BMWs but the newer ones BMW has been changing the software a lot to making coding more and more difficult, so so be fair to Protool I think its tough for them to keep up




Putting this here for my reference in case I need to change anything or come back to it. Maybe it will help someone here. Basically without a functioning E-Sys for the G87 platform for us end users I used a combination of BimmerCode and ProTools. Each his its pluses and minuses and I don’t find either system a complete solution for coding the G87, however between both of these options I have my car EXACTLY as I’d like it.

Also while not technically “coding,” the canDO+ unit is fantastic for setting drive settings and turning on the M-Sport Displays every time I start my car. No need to press any buttons.

CanDO+
- My install is outlined in a post above. I installed mine with a switch so I can turn it off for when I’m coding the car, or going in for service. Confirmed that this actually turns to the unit off. The canDO+ unit allows you to run macros on certain events - like turn on M-Sport display and set your engine/brakes/steering/chassis settings on startup without pushing a button, or assigning a M-Mode to either M1/M2. There are a lot of things you can do, have a more extensive list in Post #48


BimmerCode
- I didn’t use BimmerCode to do any “advanced” coding, but I have poked around and it does give the comprehensive list of available FDL codes in the units
- One drawback cited with BimmerCode is that it doesn’t have access to KAFAS front camera module needed to fully code anti-glare high beams. Turns out the G87 doesn’t have KAFAS (at least my manual G87 without active cruise control doesn’t) but a different camera module that is accessible through ProTools

- BimmerCode Coding
- Remove legal disclaimers
- Remove Rearview camera legal disclaimers
- Remove Driver seat only seatbelt reminder (it will ding once, but no constant dinging at you, but yes will give the passenger reminder)
- Passenger side view mirror dips 60% in reverse (not the stock 90%)
- Bowers & Wilkins Sound Profile (this is a MUST DO, made a huge improvement)
- 5 Blinks on turn signals, remember to go into iDrive and select 5 under “exterior lighting”
- Set auto-headlights and wipers to “Insensitive” (gets darker or rains more before headlights auto turn on or wipers wipe)
- Switched the first interior ambient lighting color to RED - note this will change all the ambient lights to red - above the console, on the dash and in the doors.
- Use ProTools to get 2 different colors - I picked Ivory above and red everywhere else to give slightly better lighting over the center console at night

ProTools - 8/30/24 ***SEE DISCLAIMER ABOVE***
- I have an android phone that I use to run JBV1 with my Valentine 1 Gen 2 for region-specific radar and police warnings in another car so this was an easy install
- Bought their USB-C to CAN connector
- Purchased a coding only license, although to clear and read errors just get the package with both, I should have done that in retrospect…their documentation on what does what wasn’t clear to me until AFTER I purchased and set it up
- Setup and implementation is SUPER easy and just works to connect to the car
- What makes this better than BimmerCode? VO coding. You can change the vehicle order and then “stock code” modules and change their settings. I used this for coding Anti-Glare Highbeams. But it could be used for CSL Diff, Steering…etc. IF you know the settings to change the vehicle type and VO to those vehicles.
- It does have a “common” codes section that will turn off legal disclaimers, change mirror tilt…etc. but I found that many of these didn’t work. I think they are mapped to old FDL lines and haven’t been updated….BimmerCode still wins in the “easy changes” department over ProTools
- ProTools shows ALL modules. And You can access coding in all of them.

- ProTools Coding
- Anti-Glare Headlights:
- 2 Steps - VO Coding in ProTools (On Android with corded adapter)
- Connect with ProTools, Go Into Vehicle Order
- Edit Vehicle Order, take out 5AP and Save
- “Default or Factory Code” the following modules:
- Left Head Light
- Right Head Light
- BDC (Body Domain Controller, might be BDCII in the G87)
- Camera that starts with the letter ‘F’ (I forget what it was called but it was listed under ‘camera’, there is no KAFAS in my manual G87)

- 9/7/24 NOTE:
I don’t know what that “camera” was that ProTool was showing. It no longer shows it. G87 has a KAFAS camera, ProTool doesn’t see it, so it can’t be coded with ProTool. When I hooked up with Bimmer Utility today (9/7/24) I can see and edit the KAFAS camera…this one does need to be VO coded for the NGHB


- Go back into Vehicle Order and Restore the “ORIGINAL” Backup and save (that will add 5AP back to the VO)
- You can change the speed that anti-glare high-beams activate coding in ProTools. So if you only want them to activate at highway speeds, set this to 50-55 MPH for example (number in HEX, not DEC). Below that speed they act normally. Stock setting is 42 MPH.

Quick Setting in ProTools:
-Can go under ‘colors’ and set one of them to RED below and PEARL up top for dual color lighting and assign this scheme to one of the stock colors you don’t like, which is what I did. Seems this setting is also available in BimmerCode but I couldn’t get it to work. But I set the first color to red in BimmerCode, so now when I select the first stock interior lighting color in my car all ambient lighting is red. When I choose ‘Rose’ or whatever throwaway color I picked in ProTools the upper lights are Ivory and all other ambient lighting is red. Cool.

Finally just for reference, here are the manual FDL codes needed for Anti-Glare Highbeams that can be done in ProTools or BimmerCode (these are 85% of the coding and it works, but by VO coding the headlight modules and camera in ProTools, theoretically that will be 100%, and mine seem to work 100%, they’re fantastic). I can confirm ProTools made these changes by VO coding, not sure what if anything changed in the headlight or camera modules:

BDC:
LaMaster1
C_BLC_PRE_ENA: 1
LUT_FLC_FORWARDLIGHTING_Y: AFS

LaMaster2
C_AFS_ECO_LEVEL_3_ENA: 01
C_AFS_ENA: 01

LaMaster3
LUT_AFS_CODRV_HOR: standard/init
LUT_AFS_DRV_HOR: F040_G005_AHL...
C_CLC_CURV_V2: 23
C_CLC_CURV_V3: 28
C_CLC_EXT_ENA: 01
C_HBA_DIM_ENA: 01
C_HBA_GFHBA_ENA_V_HI: 3C
C_HBA_GFHB_ENA: 01

(For G80, just including it here)
Then in E-SYS:
Read out the KAFAS modules and change:

C_FLA_COUNTRY_WITH_MULTIPLE_REFLECTORS: 01
C_FLA_US_SENSITIVITY_MODE: 00
C_FLA_BS_ENTER_THRESH: Rest of world
C_FLA_BS_EXIT_THRESH: Rest of world
COUNTRY_VARIATION: Europe_RC
C_FLA_CC_MESSAGE_3: no_CC_message
C_FLA_US_SENSITIVITY_MODE: Normal [00]

[BroDoze]

Excellent as always!

[Mr. Hankey]

canDO+ VERSION 1.6 -- This update is great!

I posted about the canDO+ module previously and it just received a major update in features to the point that it now achieves everything I could have hoped it could do in the M2. It's a small box that plugs into the CAN bus under the center console and can change some settings on the car at the push of a button, or adjust settings when the car fires up. For example when I start my car canDO+ will turn on M-Sport screens and set my car to Engine/brakes/steering into sport, chassis into comfort, DSC ON, and Gear Change Assist ON. Without pushing a button. But you could also assign this to M1 or M2.

Link to pictures of the install here: canDO+ Install - You do not need to wire an on/off switch like I did. canDO+ now has a stealth mode so it isn't active if you want to turn it off, coding, or going in for service for example. I'm a tinkerer...that part kept me off the streets for about 48 minutes

Here is an overview of what's in version 1.6. It allows you to assign actions to inputs, and these are called associations in canDO+ terminology. For me it has completely eliminated the need to interact with the touch screen to make any changes when driving this car in terms of "car stuff" (other than just the temperature buttons). I can do everything by interacting with buttons. No need to dig into the climate settings to turn on a seat heater, or turn it off, I now have buttons (without sacrificing the buttons original function either). I don't have to go into the Setup or M Mode menu, ever.

First I will start off with Buttons/Events that you can assign these macros to:



Engine start for example mine will run a macro setting up my basic drive settings with M Sport Mode Screens. I just have to start the car. Also since Engine Sport is the first setting my car starts with partial open valves so is a little more aggressive than the standard startup as a bit of a bonus. You can set separate events for M1 vs M2 buttons. M1 will put mine into M Road screens with the settings assigned to M1, and M2 will select M Sport Display with my M2 settings. When M1 or M2 modes are disabled that can also trigger a macro and my car will get put back into my base startup settings with M Sport Displays instead of everything in efficient/comfort which is the car's default.

For the iDrive buttons these are interesting. You will see 'Touch', 'Press', and 'Long Press'. Touch is just that - lay your finger on the button and it will fire a macro, I used these a lot outlined later. Press is when you press a button. It will do its normal action like "Home" and run your macro. I didn't use any of these. Long Press will run the macro after 2-3 seconds of holding a button without setting off the function the button is for.

So for my home button, if I touch the button but don't press it, Waze opens in CarPlay and gets me directly into the CarPlay side of things. If I press Home once, it works normally - takes me to the home screen in iDrive. So with this button I can now switch between iDrive and CarPlay easily. More importantly, not having to use my "shortcuts" with the iDrive controller. Very handy that the buttons work like the old shortcut buttons worked (1-8) in prior BMWs. The button is aware of a finger pad touch, and canDO+ can recognize that.

ACTIONS

There are 9 categories of actions that canDO+ can perform. Any of them can be included in a macro, or just a single action can be performed.



















These are all the current actions. There are likely to be more. I would love steering wheel heating to be one of them for example but it isn't on the same CAN network that the canDO+ monitors, so there isn't likely going to be an ability to turn that on when the seat heater is turned on, but there still might be a way discovered since there is some crosstalk between networks and those codes can be creatively exploited (I'm told this is how the M1/M2 buttons work, they aren't on the same network but a way was discovered to indirectly detect that M1 or M2 was pressed and then fire the macros. So I'm hopeful. The system has a way to monitor and pare down traffic on the can bus and discover messages that will trigger events. I used it to figure out how to trigger Gear Shift Assist On and off for example.

Next section: My setup with version 1.6

[Mr. Hankey]

canDO+ VERSION 1.6 -- My Settings

So using the above information here is how my canDO+ unit is programmed. I have 11 'associations' with Engine start and turning off M1 or M2 modes in my car being the biggest ones to get the car to consistent, non-stock, settings:

1. Engine Start
- Engine Sport
- Shift Assist. On
- Chassis Comfort
- Steering Sport
- DELAY 1 sec.
- Brakes Sport
- DSC ON
- DELAY 100 ms
- A/C On (this just forces the compressor switch on)
- AIR Sync On (syncs driver and passenger temps, you know OCD)
- M Sport Mode

2. M1/M2 Disable
- DELAY 500ms (found I needed this delay when turning M1/M2 off)
- M Sport Mode
- DELAY 100ms
- Engine Sport
- Shift Assist. On
- Chassis Comfort
- Steering Sport
- DELAY 1 sec.
- Brakes Sport
- DSC On
- DELAY 100ms
- A/C On
- AIR Sync On

3. M2 Enable
- M Sport Mode

4. M1 Enable
- M Road Mode

5. HOME Touch (Waze is set as my first shortcut, this picks that shortcut and launches CarPlay to waze)
- CONTROLLER Up
- DELAY 500ms
- CONTROLLER Press

6. MEDIA Touch
- SEAT Driver Max (turn on driver seat heater on high)

7. TEL Touch
- SEAT Driver Off (turn off driver seat heater)

8. MAP Touch
- SEAT Passenger Max (turn on passenger seat heater on high)

9. NAV Touch
- SEAT Passenger Off (turn off passenger seat heater)

10. BACK Touch
- A/C Max On (turn on MAX A/C)

11. OPTION Touch
- A/C Max Off (turn off MAX A/C)
- A/C On
- AIR Sync On (OCD causing eye twitching here again, haha)

Finally here is how things are mapped on my iDrive. To activate these that are scribbled on the picture I just need to touch the button, I don't need to press it at all. It is intuitive. Home for example if I press it, will take me to iDrive home. If I'm in the BMW side of things and I simply touch the home button it will run "controller up" and "controller press" to choose my first shortcut, which is Waze and it will open CarPlay...So I can easily switch between CarPlay and BMW side of things this way. Seat heaters on and off are setup intuitively, and Max AC/Max AC off is the same:



I still have touch settings available on the DSC button, M Mode button, and Setup Button. I also still have settings available with long presses of the iDrive buttons...

I start my car and it automatically sets my drive settings and fires up the M Sport Displays. My M1 and M2 settings are saved in iDrive so I just use the M Road display in M1 in case I want the map in that screen, and M Sport display for M2. Whenever I inactivate M1 or M2 the car will again go into my preferred base drive settings with M Sport Display.

I don't need to dig into the climate settings to turn on or off the seat heaters for driver or passenger. I can easily turn on Max AC and turn it off. I can easily switch between CarPlay world and iDrive world...ALL WITHOUT EVER GOING INTO ANY MENUS OR INTERACTING WITH A SCREEN. So those buttons I dearly missed when I got the car, no longer an issue. Get in, startup and drive off. Amazing.

Happy to answer any questions if anyone has any...also any other canDO+ users with ideas? I'd appreciate hearing them!

[mtenhoven]

Mr. Hankey First, thanks for the detailed post, just installed canDO+ the other day. Second, just looking to confirm that when you mention switching to M Sport display the following are still deactivated as the macro is more than just a display change, correct?
▷ Lane departure warning.
▷ Side collision mitigation.
▷ Manual Speed Limiter.
▷ Cruise control.
▷ Active Cruise Control.

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by mtenhoven

Mr. Hankey First, thanks for the detailed post, just installed canDO+ the other day. Second, just looking to confirm that when you mention switching to M Sport display the following are still deactivated as the macro is more than just a display change, correct?
▷ Lane departure warning.
▷ Side collision mitigation.
▷ Manual Speed Limiter.
▷ Cruise control.
▷ Active Cruise Control.

Yes, it works exactly as it does when you go into M-Mode and select M Sport Mode.

[Mr. Hankey]

CODING UPDATE RE: RE ProTool


As of 8/30/24 don't buy PROTOOL just to code this car like I suggested above - no longer working, cannot see my Body Domain Controller (BDC) which is probably the most important ECU to code for many things. Did some research on the other forums here and the company has had a hard time keeping up with newer software for the newer cars. They did get back to me and said that whenever there is new software introduced they need to “catch up” so if there isn’t a new CAFD file for things then ProTool will stop working, like it did for me. “Give us time” and it will catch up, eventually I presume.

Bimmercode still working very well, but you can't VO code the ECUs. In the meantime I will be trying Bimmer Utility and will report back.

I say all of this because with the most recent BMW Auto-update which my car did for me against my will 2 days ago my anti-glare high beams no longer work. I was able to code everything back EXCEPT anti-glare high beams. The manual entries above are also not working 100% so I suspect BMW changed the CAFD file for that with this new version likely.

Doesn't seem others on the larger coding threads have picked up on the fact that it has changed yet (or maybe my car is just being a PITA).

[Mr. Hankey]

CDV Valve Delete (Part 1 of 3)

Did the CDV delete today. Relatively easy, and this video lays it out perfectly (credit to Auto Fanatic): CDV Delete G80

I followed that video to the 'T', instructions are perfect. I didn't have the mirror, but didn't need it.

Not having done this before I went slowly, and will outline what I learned. I primarily learned to flush the clutch system of air . People say I have a gas problem given my avatar name, but today the M2 had that problem...more in a bit.

I used the same pressure bleeder and catch bottle as in the video.

Pressure Bleeder: Amazon Link
Catch Can: Amazon Link
Cheap-o Hose Clamps: Amazon Link

I splurged a bit on the Amazon stuff because I'm building another car and will need multiple clamps, and will reuse the pressure bleeder for that project.

Also picked up a pint of Brake/Clutch fluid from my BMW dealer when my car was in for brake pad issues. It was $10, and more than enough fluid. While dealing with my brake pad delamination I also learned that BMW won't warrantee your brake pads if you wash your car with soap. Ever. There's actually a TSB from BMW about it. But I digress.

Here is the bottle which hooks up to the reservoir in the car, and you pump it up to 12-15 PSI, 12 is more than enough. Catch bottle is on the right. The hanging cable came in handy. On the pressure bottle make sure the connection fitting is tight to the "european adapter", otherwise it will slowly leak air and you, your buddy, your kids or wife will be doing a lot of pumping.



Next is finding the reservoir. It is located underneath a removable panel against the firewall on the drivers side:



There is a little locking key there that twists then the panel easily comes out, revealing the reservoir:



OK, so I am now at 60 pictures in my albums which is the limit...going to try adding them as attachments...

In any event don't pressurize the bottle of air just yet, but OK to hook it up. I would also recommend adding fluid to the reservoir until it is 1/2 way up the neck of the threaded section. You will need extra fluid in there for the bleeding later...

[Mr. Hankey]

CDV Valve Delete (Part 2 of 3)

Under the car the slave, CDV valve, and Bleeder nipple are on the driver's side of the transmission (Left side, US).



Next take out the 13 mm bolt holding the bracket. I used a universal joint adapter for my socket. Made it a bit quicker but still an awkward angle:



Clamp the rubber tubing. Use a hose clamp, not vise grip. Also pad with a towel. With the cheap-o clamps I used, I ended up having to use 2 clamps as the first one wasn't quite strong enough and there was a slight leak, enough I had to act like a surgeon asking for a second clamp...**STAT**....the patient is bleeding. Thats what I get for cheaping out on a hose clamp and getting plastic ones.



Next, pull the adapter on the steel line end out of the adapter on the slave. You have to use a pick to open the spring-lock on the adapter in order to disconnect these 2:



What I learned is the spring has 3 settings - All the way in, all the way out, and a middle setting it will click into and make you think it is all the way out, when it isn't in fact out and you will spend 5 minutes trying to figure out how to get enough force on the darn thing to get it out, while muttering curse prayers into the ether. Then you realize the spring clicks one more setting out and it comes apart relatively easy. Have a towel ready, just in case your line drips like mine did, requiring a second clamp:

[Mr. Hankey]

CDV Valve Delete (Part 3 of 3)

Next part is the actual reason we're here...to do like they do on the Discovery Channel...I used a 3.5 decking screw and stuck it in the moist hole where the CDV lives, cue the soft Jazz :



Then coitus ...you can feel around with the tip of your screw for the hole of the rubber grommet, and when you feel it screw in until resistance. Then pull out:


Money shot ...there's the grommet. The actual CDV valve is a metal thing. I put my screw in a second time and it was right there. The video shows a mirror which would have been helpful if I couldn't find the metal part of the valve in there...it was one of those things where I know I have one of those automotive mirror dealies, even with an extendable magnet (heard the collective ooohhh from the audience there), but I have no idea which toolbox or bin its sitting at the bottom of, so decided that laziness pays off now, and it did.



Here are the 2 things you should have removed:


Next put the hydraulic line back into the slave and push the spring lock down. OK to remove clamps and prepare for bleeding. Remove the rubber nipple cover, and hook your breast pump—-err collection bottle—-up to it:


I then pressurized the reservoir bottle and opened the bleeder valve with an 11 mm crescent wrench. It takes more turns than you think to open this, probably 2 full turns of the nut, but its about 10 replacements of the wrench as space in there is limited. You will get an initial dribble of fluid then one more turn it will come out quickly, be prepared for that and be ready to close it a bit. Also keep an eye on your bottle. Once you get to an ounce of fluid close the valve and go add more fluid to your reservoir so that air doesn’t get into your system and flush your clutch line with air like mine did the first time (I didn’t top off my reservoir first). Don’t worry about leaving excess fluid in the reservoir when you are done bleeding, you can remove the excess with a 5 cc syringe from a kids liquid Tylenol bottle (clean of course), they won’t miss it. You can see some of the air bubbles coming out but up top no more air coming out near the nipple:


Bleeding Issues I had: So my bleeding was going great, and I was ready to close the valve but a bubble came out, so I decided to bleed just a couple seconds longer. Then a big whoosh of air came through. I had bled about 1.5 ounces of fluid and then the reservoir level got below the hydraulic line takeoff and a bunch of air went through the system. So shut it all down, added fluid to 1/2 way up the neck of the reservoir, and had to bleed it again. Obviously a bunch of air and bubbles came out. When I got to about 1.5 ounces I topped off the reservoir again, recharged the pressure bleeder and did this 3 times. No more air coming out but I might have Mr. Hankey'ed myself a bit.

Went and pushed the clutch about 50 times to be safe (bleeder valve closed, reservoir closed, not pressurized). Bled 2 more times. No air came out. Clutch felt normal. Closed up shop and took the car for a drive. No issues.

One way around this would be to use a vacuum bleeder on the lower nipple to suck the fluid through the system rather than a pressure bleeder that pushes the fluid down from the reservoir. With a vacuum bleeder you’d just need to stay up by the reservoir and add fluid as the system sucked from below….somehow that just sounds more fun—err wrong—but you get what I mean.

Initial Impressions: I will say the clutch feels more linear, including the bite point. Feels more like my NA Miata clutch in terms of grab. When just driving around slowly it really doesn't feel much different than stock. You still have to "feather" at the bite point in 1 and 2 to be smooth, and I need to re-train my muscle memory here because it is different, I don't need to lag as long...When driving or shifting faster, yes there is a definite improvement for sure, subtle-ish, but it's there, and it's better. Exactly as everyone advertises it, not transformative, but better.

I'd like to thank everyone who posted about this on here, definitely glad I did it. Maybe a vacuum bleeder would have been better, but I think I got greedy initially and clearly bled a little too much the first time. If you're getting up to an ounce of fluid. Shut the valve and go top off your reservoir then continue....don't be a dolt like Mr. Hankey!

[BroDoze]

Great freakin’ write-up, as usual! Great pics and commentary.

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Great freakin’ write-up, as usual! Great pics and commentary.

Thanks! The video I linked from Auto Fanatic is fantastic.

Keys for me were
1. Finding the reservoir under the 'secret panel'
2. The spring clicks out 2 levels
3. If you use plastic clamps put 2 on the tubing, if you have a real hose clamp then 1 should work
4. If using a pressure bleeder (as opposed to a vacuum bleeder on the nipple end), top that reservoir up before starting. My reservoir was just slightly crooked, so it looked fuller than it was. Literally an ounce to ounce and a half and then the gush of pressurized air came through, and . Fortunately it didn't get into my clutch master cylinder and I was able to just bleed it through again....but of course given the OCD us M drivers tend to have, I REALLY bled it after that happened.

Clutch is working great...so far I like the change. No need to go back but am keeping those 2 parts in a baggie just in case!

[Mr. Hankey]

TRE CS Rear Spoiler

Installed the TRE CS spoiler today. Their install video is here: TRE Trunk Spoiler Install.

I like the splash of contrast against the Brooklyn Grey and it is a quality piece. I prefer its smaller size, but like the verticality of its gurney flap in back over the larger sloped decklid spoilers. I wish someone made one of these spoilers without that middle third-notch that is so popular, but overall I'm quite happy with it.

Install just like all the videos, but rather than fishing line, I used a plastic spatula as well as a heat gun (fishing line kept breaking as well).

First - taped off the stock trunk spoiler.


Second - heat gun and spatula to get it lifted up and once I was able to get fingers underneath just applied upward pressure (quite a bit) and the heat gun along the leading edge and it peeled right up and off.




Next - Cleaned up the excess adhesive with 3M adhesive remover, polished the edge of the lip, used a microfiber cloth, didn't have the fancy polishing wheel thing everyone seems to use. Maybe that would have saved some elbow grease.

Then used the adhesion promoter provided with the kit (careful with that stuff, it etched my clear coat), lined up the lip and installed.





This also arrived today, so will see how well Bimmer Utility plays with the new software update:

[Mr. Hankey]

Bimmer Utility - as of 9/7/24

Ok so small coding update. I received the Bimmer Utility ENET WiFi Adapter and registered my copy on my iPad.

The Bimmer Utility Wifi Adapter is the ONLY ADAPTER YOU WILL NEED FOR EVERY CODING APP. Save your money on the others. It also works as a direct Ethernet wired connection to a laptop.

It works with Bimmer Utility on iOS, Works with Bimmercode on iOS, and works with Protool on Android (I have all 3). It is very fast and MUCH FASTER than the Bimmercode adapter I bought from them.

I tried Bimmer Utility because ProTool is currently broken (as of 9/7/24) for the G87. You can't get into Body Domain Controller (BDC) and several other modules. Consequently you also cannot VO code the BDC and that's important for Adaptive Headlights, interior and some exterior lighting, and mirrors. That's a shame because ProTool had a lot more shortcuts for the BDC than BimmerCode has. But Bimmercode can't VO code which is where ProTool came in handy.

Bimmercode remains functional, just be sure to update its database....start the app, press the settings wheel in the lower left and "check for updates". It is still going strong but its drawbacks are it doesn't see every module like the KAFAS camera and can't VO code or change the FA/VO.

Bimmer Utility does all of this. Connection to the car is easy. It sees EVERY module. You can edit the FA/VO and VO code the modules. You can back everything up. It will work on windows and also work with ESYS as a launcher (I have not tried that yet, although not sure if there are CAFDs for our cars for ESYS that will work). BimmerUtility's shortcuts are FEW and very minimal compared to Bimmercode, so Bimmercode wins here easily...but BimmerUtility is the better app for "power users". It shows a lot of info - for example in BDC it will show about 9 sections of data, unfortunately they are all in FDL lines and meaningless to those of us who don't know what they do.

Regardless I was able to finally remove 5AP (codes for US headlights) and VO code, both headlights, BDC, and the KAFAS camera module (finally!)....so hopefully this fixed the EURO coding for the anti-dazzle headlights.

Other than that I don't have much use for Bimmerutility....if you're coding simple stuff like removing warnings, changing how far your mirror tips in reverse, some colors inside the car, just stick with Bimmercode. More advanced stuff, Bimmer Utility is feature-full, but shortcut-short. I will need to find a listing of the various FDL lines on some of the coding forums and expert code some of the stuff...Maybe there are more shortcuts on the desktop version, however it is fast and the VO coding is powerful.

Regardless of all of this - just buy the Bimmer Utility ENET wifi adapter if you are going to code your car. It works with EVERY coding app, and can be direct Ethernet wired to a computer.

[Mr. Hankey]

IT WORKED!!! NGHB ACTIVE AGAIN

Took the car out for a ride tonight and happy to report that Non-Glare High Beams are working. They are actually tunneling better than they did previously. I wasn’t able to access the KAFAS camera with ProTool when I initially coded this, but Bimmer Utility shows it and I was able to VO code it. I think that was the last piece.

So in Bimmer Utility I removed 5AP from the VO, then VO coded the left and right headlight modules, BDC, and KAFAS. I’m not sure the headlight modules need coding but with the F80 they did. Takes 15 seconds to do so just did it. In any event I have everything coded back as it was before the 7/24.30 software update.

I’ve also turned off auto updates from BMW under “Data Privacy” in vehicle settings…whether or not this prevents future updates remains to be seen.

The 1 thing I can’t get back easily and I might need to dig through FDL lines in BDC is changing the light color above the shifter to a different color than the other ambient lighting in the car. I was able to do that with ProTool before (but can’t access BDC with ProTool anymore after this most recent BMW update). I can live with everything being red.

[Mr. Hankey]

CODING AMBIENT COLORS

This is change for the sake of change, and I needed a puzzle to solve today, so here it is!

Was playing with Bimmer Utility and was able to change the colors of the ambient lighting in the cabin. This can also be done with expert mode in Bimmer Code. You can have different colors for the map lights up top, the Door handles/center cubby/Mid dashboard (these all 1 color), and footwells. The M2 sets the same color for all 3 areas as default, but this lets you change them. You can pick ANY color, and put it in any of these 3 places.

With BimmerCode you are able to change the colors from the stock colors in iDrive. I initially just used red, and it looks great in all these 3 areas but I like a brighter light over the center console/shifter.

I was able to make 3 different settings I can switch between:

1. All lights red (when I choose IVORY)
2. Pearl up top in the map lights, red in the doors and dash, and red in the footwells (when I choose CORAL)
3. Pearl up top in the map lights, red in the doors and dash, and Pearl in the footwells (when I choose TURQUIOSE)

You can literally pick ANY color combo and code it in. I like some dim white light in the footwells and over the shifter, but red everywhere else. Just customizes things a bit. It is a very fast change as well, just a matter of keep track of some numbers.

Coding is in: BDC_BODY3\360A LicLciColorLibrary\LIC_LCI_COLOR_LIBRARY_DATA

Go to “custom” and it will bring up the “bytes”….Change the 3 bytes for each area to the color you’d like, for example red is FE 00 00 and that would go in 18,19,20 for the doors when color “IVORY” is selected. I made “CORAL” with map lights Pearl, and everywhere else red, finally I took over TURQUOISE and made that one Pearl in the map lights and footwells and red on the dash and doors. You could make custom colors for every single stock color if you like. I think this will be enough for me for now. Not sure if I will like the white down in the footwell, but we will see. The table below likely won’t make sense until you try it….seemed confusing to me, but was pretty easy.

IVORY
Byte: 18, 19, 20 (door/dash) - Change to FE, 00, 00 (red)
Byte: 23, 24, 25 (footwell) - Change to FE, 00, 00 (red)
Byte: 28, 29, 30 (map lights) - Change to FE, 00, 00 (red)

CORAL
Byte: 33, 34, 35 (door/dash) - Change to FE, 00, 00 (red)
Byte: 38, 39, 40 (footwell) - Change to FE, 00, 00 (red)
Byte: 43, 44, 45 (map light) - Change to 60, 82, B6 (pearl)

TURQUOISE
Byte: 48, 49, 50 (door/dash) - Change to FE, 00, 00 (red)
Byte: 53, 54, 55 (footwell) - Change to 60, 82, B6 (pearl)
Byte: 58, 59, 60 (map light) - Change to 60, 82, B6 (pearl)

Pictures below you can see Photo 1: Red Maplights, Red Doors and Dash, Red Footwell. Photo 2: Pearl, Red, Pearl. Photo 3: Pearl, Red, Red (red here is had to see due to exposure). Photo 4: The pearl footwells and red dash, my phone took this photo in low light mode so it is way over exaggerating how it looks, but you get the idea). Photo 5: How to set the Bytes in Bimmer Utility….pretty straightforward.

If anyone decides to tackle this and has questions, ping me!

[M2diamondblack]

Really appreciate your detailed description and reasoning on the wheel selection and setup. Currently looking at wheels now for my soon to arrive '25. Thanks!

[Mr. Hankey]

Got my winter tires mounted.

Nokian Hakkapeliitta R5s 275/35 19 square setup on a square wheel setup (stock 19” rims all around).

Will test mount the rears when I get my brake pads to see if it needs some spacers in the back, front will be OK.

Went square so I can rotate season to season…

[Mr. Hankey]

The iSweep 2000 brake pads came in yesterday and got them installed this morning. TL;DR - BETTER BITE, NO MORE SQUEALING!!!!!!!!! SO REFRESHING

The reason for the switch to the new pads was the fact that I had a left rear brake pad delamination due to the rear pad sticking to the rotor when the parking brake was engaged after a rainstorm. It was pretty obviously stuck when I moved the car the following day taking a bit of gas to get it to "pop" free. I then noticed within a week that the rotor had a rust stripe happening in the middle and assumed a pad problem, so took it to the dealer who noted the delamination, showed me a BMW TSB on not getting soap on your pads or this will happen and explained that this issue is not a warranty or goodwill thing (even with only 2700 miles on the pads) since it is a "known issue" (the squealing is also a "known issue"). Wish someone told me when I bought this thing about that (haha, weak I know).

The dealer wanted $2000 to replace the left rear rotor and left rear pads. It was a rust stripe and not a groove in the rotor so I just decided I'd switch pads on all 4 corners since I "drive in the rain a lot" and just feel that I can't trust the stock pads to get wet and not stick to the rotors (what's the use case for these brakes BMW?). I also wash my car from time to time (duh). Other reasons to switch pads was that the dusting was awful (hoping that will be a bit better, but don't expect much less with the 2000s), and squealing of the stock pads was also driving me insane.

So I ordered the iSweep 2000s and they finally just arrived after a 3 week wait. I haven't driven the car much in the time I've been waiting so that I didn't form a groove in the rotor and have to replace that as well.

The install was relatively easy and the entire process took me 3 hours but that was with a couple breaks for coffee and I also performed a serious deep clean of every nook and cranny of my rims when off the car (which was about 1.5 hours of the work). I enjoy working on cars and don't really time "how fast" I can do something. Man project. Yay!

I used these videos by @accelerated_motion as an install guide which were absolutely perfect for the install:
G80 Front Pad Replacement
G80 Rear Pad Replacement

BMW Parts I purchased for the install:
Fronts: 34-11-2-284-399 - Hex Nut with Flange (caliper bolt x2 each side, Torque to 70 ft-lbs, no loc-tite)
Rears: 34-20-6-850-560 - Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate Bolt (2 of these per side, torque to 25 ft-lbs, then 90 degrees more, add a drop of blue (NOT RED) Loctite if re-using the bolts)
Sensor: 34-35-6-870-348 - Brake pad sensor

In the end I just re-used the hardware that was on my car, I ordered 2 of each of the nuts and bolts above as my car now has 2900 miles on it and just ordered these to have a couple backups in case something broke or cross threaded, same with the sensor...just in case I broke one (errr...I mean one was found to be broken ). I didn't need any of them so will hold onto them for the next brake change.

For the pads, You need to order left and right fronts, and only 1 box for the rears, and that 1 box has all 4 pads as well as some copper anti-seize, which I used for the install on the rears.

For sensors there are only 2 on the car - the driver's front and the passenger's rear pads each have sensors. So if you haven't done this before change the passenger's front or Driver's rear first just so you know the mechanics of the thing if you're worried about the sensors...although in the end they were very easy to deal with.

I highly recommend using BimmerLink (App) to put your car into service mode for this (this opens the rear e-brake motors fully). I did not have to take the E-brake motors off the rear caliper, and I didn't need a caliper spreader to service the rears. They were just take the caliper off, replace the pads and sensor, and put the caliper back on. The amount of fiddling with the remove/replacement of the E-brake motors, potentially breaking something, and the time saved easily offsets the $40 for the app, in my book.






And before you take the car for a ride, make sure to deactivate service mode, then start the car and activated/deactivate the parking brake a couple times to make sure it works:


Here is the rotor stripe my left rear was developing:

[Mr. Hankey]

Rear iSweep Install:

Here is the delamination that my driver's rear pad had, all the other pads looked good when taken off the car. It probably would have evened itself out over time as the groove wore down but


iSweeps front and back, note one is labeled "IN" and the other "OUT", these are sided:



TOOLS:


Need:
- 17 mm thin open crescent wrench (or an adjustable wrench, my crescent wrench was actually too wide to fit on the bolt it had to hold)
- 13 mm socket/socket wrench
- Blue Loctite (if re-using the bolts)
- Flat-head screwdriver for the sensor on the passenger side rear
- Caliper grease or copper anti-seize (provided by iSweep)
- When putting the bolts back torque to 25 ft-lbs then 90 degrees further tightening (I got about 60-80 degrees and it was TIGHT, didn't want to shear or break a bolt. If a new bolt, no loc-tite needed. If reusing like I did, I put a drop of blue loc-tite on each)

The video in the post above shows everything very well but here are better pictures of the sensor-side, you can see the sensor wire:


Undo the sensor-wire attachments (red circle) - it just pops out of these, you will need the slack:


Here is how the sensor attaches, the replacement pad has a groove that this will pop back into:


Disassembled this is how the sensor looks attached to the stock pad:


Just a twist with a flat head screwdriver, it will pop out:


I reassembled the new pads and caliper, and torqued everything down, then put the sensor in, used a wider flat head and a hammer to tap it into the groove in the new pad, and done.

I have more pictures - is anyone has questions ping me.

[Mr. Hankey]

Front iSweep Install

Used 2 jacks and a jack stand a a 3rd safety measure for the install:


Tools for the Fronts:


1. 14 mm Socket/Torque Wrench (70 ft-lbs for the flanged nuts on reinstall of the caliper, NO loc-tite)
2. I used a 7/32" punch to pop out the caliper/pad alignment pins. Honestly anything that fits in there will work (and thats what Mr. Hankey said )
3. Hammer to pop out the alignment pins in #2, and to get them back in
4. Rubber mallet to get the caliper off its mounts - 2 to 3 taps up top, 2-3 taps on the bottom, repeat top and bottom and it will "walk off" the 2 mounting posts
5. Flat head screwdriver to get the sensor out of the pad (sensor is on the drivers side only)

The sensor is on the driver's side. Release the sensor wire from the mounting bracket in the 2 circled areas:


Here is where it inserts:


here is how it connects to the stock pad (just clicked in, but it is IN there):


And a very easy way to get it to pop out:


The non-sensor side took my 15 minutes to do, if that. You can reassemble the new pads and caliper and put the sensor in last, again I used a slightly wider flat head and hammer to seat it once in its area on the pads.

Once everything was bak together went and bedded them in. I know the feel will change slightly as the stock residue gets replaced by the iSweep residue on the surface of the rotor but these bite really well and definitely stop better than the stock pads, activating antilock braking sooner. In "Comfort" braking mode they feel like the stock pads in "Sport". Very smooth, very controllable....I'm sure their feel will change over a few hundred miles, but I'm very happy with them. Also very happy to be able to drive my car regularly again. and NO SQUEALING OR SQUEAKING AT ALL!!!!! If dusting is even slightly better then bonus.

I should have listened to everyone on here and just done this mod when the car arrived. What a difference!

Also after the bedding in drive, the rust stripe is pretty much gone, and the rotor is just fine:


iSweep