[lutfy]

ZPD, your assessment on the pads are spot on!!

1) Stock pads, as we all know do a great job but are not consistent. I ran it once at SCCA Time Trials and had to manage them as the fade can creep up on you.

2) Pagid Yellows RS29: These were the pads we would run on Aston Martin GT4 (customer experience cars) at Yas Marina. They are great for just stopping and long lasting, used for endurance races where one brakes a lot sooner than what we do for a typical 20-30 min run.

Hence my assessment is the same, they do not have the initial torque/bite and more like "hold the brakes and wait for it to just eventually slow down" if managed properly, good entry-level pads. For this reason (and running it on E9X M3).

3) G-Loc: I am a big fan of R16 pads. Ran it on my NASA ST5 (Toyota 86) race car and was able to brake deep, have linear braking/modulation, on aero and wide Hoosier R7. The wear was great and the pads would manage heat very well.

Just ordered a set from Danny (who is very knowledgeable and takes out the time to understand my needs) for the G87 as well (mostly a DE, occasional TT4 car). Those will be matched with R10 rears. ZPD which pads did you choose for the rears? How was the wear?

4) CSG: I am big fan of CSG and David Leung in general. Drove an Endurance AER 86 and the pads were phenomenal. I need to give it a shot next.

Cheers,

Lutfy

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by lutfy

ZPD which pads did you choose for the rears? How was the wear?

I had G-Loc R-12 most of the time. I had Pagid on the back when I had pagids up front. I now have Cobalt XP12 (Gloc r12 equivalent). The R12's lasted about 10 track days.

[ZPD]

Update on the Cobalt XR1:
After 2 full track days and one long 40 min session all at COTA, the pads still had some life left but there was major tapering going on. If it didn't have the taper I suspect that I could have gotten a full 3rd day out of them. An unrelated problem sent me packing.

[clutchdj]

Ran PFC 331/332 yesterday at thunderbolt. Great pad no fade. Had severel other PFCs compounds (01,08,11, etc) in the past including carbotechs on my Fgen cars. Really loud on the street after a track day but not surprising. Worth every penny slowing down the little elephant M2

[GA_G87]

Good to hear! It was Bimmerworld that recommended the PFC331/332 pads for me. I've still got stock rotors and will install the PFC pads. Then, when the OE rotors go kaput, it's my plan to replace them with Girodisc rotors. Does this sound like a sensible plan as per others who are tracking their G87s?

Originally Posted by clutchdj

Ran PFC 331/332 yesterday at thunderbolt. Great pad no fade. Had severel other PFCs compounds (01,08,11, etc) in the past including carbotechs on my Fgen cars. Really loud on the street after a track day but not surprising. Worth every penny slowing down the little elephant M2

[clutchdj]

I like bimmerworld, they know their sh!t and have a laid back attitude.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by ZPD

Update on the Cobalt XR1:
After 2 full track days and one long 40 min session all at COTA, the pads still had some life left but there was major tapering going on. If it didn't have the taper I suspect that I could have gotten a full 3rd day out of them. An unrelated problem sent me packing.

This sucks. Kind of like rotating tires around Likely due to some caliper flex.

Also (on a separate topic), do you install new torque to yield screws on the caliper (2 per side) on the front each time you change the front pads?

Regarding the rears, do you need an App/Software to let go of the parking brakes or you are able to reset the caliper without issues?

I want to make sure I get this all lined up before I install my track pads.

TIA

[oldbmwtech]

Originally Posted by lutfy

This sucks. Kind of like rotating tires around Likely due to some caliper flex.

Also (on a separate topic), do you install new torque to yield screws on the caliper (2 per side) on the front each time you change the front pads?

Regarding the rears, do you need an App/Software to let go of the parking brakes or you are able to reset the caliper without issues?

I want to make sure I get this all lined up before I install my track pads.

TIA

Torque to yield bolts are a one time use, so yes you must replace them. The reason for this is the clamping force. Once the bolt is torqued to specs the bolt has stretched to the max clamping force. If you re use the bolt it will stretch more with a greater chance for the bolt to break.

One must put the rear calipers in service mode to safely service the rear brakes. Most scan tools will do this.

As for replacing front pads I don’t think you need to remove the caliper, you will need to remove the caliper for rotor change. The caliper has pins to punch out to remove the pads.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by oldbmwtech

Torque to yield bolts are a one time use, so yes you must replace them. The reason for this is the clamping force. Once the bolt is torqued to specs the bolt has stretched to the max clamping force. If you re use the bolt it will stretch more with a greater chance for the bolt to break.

One must put the rear calipers in service mode to safely service the rear brakes. Most scan tools will do this.

As for replacing front pads I don’t think you need to remove the caliper, you will need to remove the caliper for rotor change. The caliper has pins to punch out to remove the pads.

Thank you so much. For the front then likely remove the cotter pin and the bridge to access the pads. In that case TTY bolt stays in place hence not needed for pad changes then?

I can reset the caliper (one at a time) by pushing each pad inward then replacing with a new one.

Regarding the rear, thank you for confirming. So Binmerlink and a compatible OBD Adapter will take care of the service mode?

Much appreciated!

[oldbmwtech]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Thank you so much. For the front then likely remove the cotter pin and the bridge to access the pads. In that case TTY bolt stays in place hence not needed for pad changes then?

I can reset the caliper (one at a time) by pushing each pad inward then replacing with a new one.

Regarding the rear, thank you for confirming. So Binmerlink and a compatible OBD Adapter will take care of the service mode?

Much appreciated!

Just need a scan tool to put the rear parking brake in service mode. Once done servicing rear brakes you disable service mode with the scan tool. Mine says it will automatically disable service mode once the car goes over a certain mph. I would rather have my scanner do it for me.

[gcmak]

Originally Posted by ZPD

Update on the Cobalt XR1:
If it didn't have the taper I suspect that I could have gotten a full 3rd day out of them. An unrelated problem sent me packing.

I can see at least two of the mechanical friction/alignment 'posts' starting to show in your picture. I don't know how their pads are constructed but there are a number of brake pads where running them below say 3mm of material, introduces non-brake pad material against the rotors. Some pads you may be able to run them all the way down to 0mm (not that you really ever should, but you could potentially do it on accident and not cause further damage to your braking system).

[gcmak]

Originally Posted by lutfy

Thank you so much. For the front then likely remove the cotter pin and the bridge to access the pads. In that case TTY bolt stays in place hence not needed for pad changes then?

None of the pads are not hot swappable on the OEM G87 brakes; they all require caliper removal.
Somewhat lucky for us, BMW uses posts for the front calipers and not a bolt (like many Porsches). It makes for a nicer on/off process and slightly cheaper because we only need one-time-use nuts replaced, not an entire bolt.

Make sure you knock out the pad retention pins before removing the front calipers; it'll make your life a bit easier.

[ZPD]

You have to remove the front caliper to change the pad. No way around that with the stock caliper. It is a pain because you have to tap it off the posts with a rubber mallet to work it off. I have opted to replace the nuts with a distorted thread nut that you can use several times. I replace it every ~5 times. So far there have been no problems.
Other than putting the brakes in and out of service mode for the rear via bimmerlink or protocol I also suggest pumping the brakes before you start the car. If the the pistons have to travel far upon start up it throws all sorts of codes.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by ZPD

I have opted to replace the nuts with a distorted thread nut that you can use several times. I replace it every ~5 times. So far there have been no problems.
Other than putting the brakes in and out of service mode for the rear via bimmerlink or protocol I also suggest pumping the brakes before you start the car. If the the pistons have to travel far upon start up it throws all sorts of codes.

I got the BimmerLink/Code and the reader along with the G-Loc brake pads.

The nut will be a pain to change back/forth, would you have info on the distorted thread nut? I'll likely do the same.

Watched Bimmerworld G87 at VIR (video) and ordered the Redline Brakefluid RL600 as well.

TIA!

Lutfy

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by lutfy

I got the BimmerLink/Code and the reader along with the G-Loc brake pads.

The nut will be a pain to change back/forth, would you have info on the distorted thread nut? I'll likely do the same.

Watched Bimmerworld G87 at VIR (video) and ordered the Redline Brakefluid RL600 as well.

TIA!

Lutfy

I use:
https://www.mcmaster.com/93795A334/

You might want to use a washer. I noticed that I have started to mar the surface of the caliper under the nut and causing a bit of material to peen into the hole making it difficult to get the caliper off.

[raceyBMW]

Any reason we can't just use Loctite Red high temp on the nut?

[clutchdj]

do any of you guys get lots of rear pad rattle (over bumpy roads) after a track day? I am not sure if it's the floating rear caliper design or if my brake fluid is cooked and full of air.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by clutchdj

do any of you guys get lots of rear pad rattle (over bumpy roads) after a track day? I am not sure if it's the floating rear caliper design or if my brake fluid is cooked and full of air.

I don't, but then again my car is a bit noisy from the rod end suspension joints so that could be covering up a rear pad rattle.

[clutchdj]

update: rattle issue was the stock fluid. it appeared that I boiled it after 2 sessions and there was air in the lines. flushed and pressure bled in pagid fluid and the rattle is mostly gone. fade and pedal feel is way improved. happy about that; rattle made the car sound like a hooptie over the bumps.

[adenjr]

I destroyed my brakes after 3x track days, a few spirited mountain drives, and 8,000kms on the odometer. My performance workshop initially recommended Ferodo DS2500 as a good street/track hybrid pad. But couldn't get them because they were on backorder, so went with Race Technologies TS20 pads instead. Did that with Girodisc Rotors, Burkhart Engineering Lines, Speed Engineering Ducts, and Castrol SRF for a total brake overhaul.