[Mr. Hankey]

Update: Case is denied. Photos of the pads were reviewed by the field rep as well as an area rep and they will not cover it. "BMW states the result of certain soaps causing the brakes to adhere if not dried properly. BMW says this is an owner error and no covered by warranty or goodwill." Thing is this was a rainstorm. I don't appreciate the assumption that it was cleaning products. I use Adams soap to wash my car and rims. No iron chelators. No sticking in the past with the E-brake...confused2

Yes it's a brake pad. Just a blame game and no communication. I had to get the quoted denial above from a higher up in the company, service is too busy to deal. I bought 4 cars in 8 years from this dealer. Sent at least 3 others who bought cars. Will replace with iSweeps and likely rid myself of this car this fall.

So many niggly issues with this particular car, and a service center that doesn't care or communicate. Goodbye BMW.

[BroDoze]

A-Holes

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

A-Holes

I think their stop sale and recall on 5, 7, X5, X7, X1s and their related I-versions of those platforms due to brake system issues worldwide is making corporate a bit tighter on claims for a $220 set of rear pads.

Of course you could turn this around and argue all this thread is me not wanting to spend $220 on a set of stock pads but tell me anything other than "owner error due to inappropriate use of soaps" (it wasn't)...and I would have accepted it and moved on, this car reminds me of a POS Range Rover we owned....loved it to death but what an abusive relationship that thing was....however their service department was AMAZING and made holding onto it for too long seem OK.

[Carefree]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

A-Holes

A+—Holes

[Mr. Hankey]

This stubborn German got some new brake pads. These can get wet. Sort of a Brooklyn Grey. Thanks BMW!

[TallGibbs]

Going to miss all the super detailed write ups for all the after market mods!

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by TallGibbs

Going to miss all the super detailed write ups for all the after market mods!

Haha! The joke is the new brake pads that can get wet are iSweep 2000s for the M2 that are on their way. They are sort of grey. About to put the M2 up and do the CDV delete…that other car is just my dream car...

But I sincerely appreciate your reply TallGibbs!

I can love the child, I don't have to remain smitten with its mother...M2 is a fabulous automobile. (Honey, if you’re reading this, I don’t mean you…it’s a metaphor… )

[BroDoze]

Do a serious write up on the 2000s - I will probably be 1-2 weeks after you get em installed. I’ll pick car up and take em home to install. Torque specs please!

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Do a serious write up on the 2000s - I will probably be 1-2 weeks after you get em installed. I’ll pick car up and take em home to install. Torque specs please!

Front flanged nuts are 70 ft-lbs, rear caliper bolts are 25 ft-lbs then 90 degrees more turn after that. Honestly BroDoze, you're waiting on your car, just get the pads and have them on at delivery of your car. They will get bedded onto new rotors. The stock rear pads are clearly wimpy. Fronts are solid, but they are doing the vast majority of the work.

I just want to make sure the bite is there and honestly don't care so much about dusting, hence the 2000s. From everything on here and great reviews by others the 1500s are fabulous and will do great even with very spirited driving, I waffled but if they save me 3 feet of braking sometimes that matters especially in the northeast where we have plenty of animals playing on the road at night, so 2000s for $90 more. The 2000s sounds like an upgrade from stock rather than equivalent, 1500s sound equivalent to stock but very little dust (it is annoying I have to admit). Thats my 2 cents right now.

[BroDoze]

I've got the 2000s - got em on a killer sale about 3 months ago.. I was going to have my tech throw 'em on during PDI, however, I just did 2 full sets of pads in 2 other vehicles of mine and it took me like 3 hrs total, for both cars, on jacks - so easy. I already have to yank the wheels and work on the car as soon as take delivery to do a bunch of stuff before I bring it in for PPF.

Thanks for the torque specs! Are the fronts a 90 degree turn too? Or just the rears?

[NewToM]

Originally Posted by aerobod

Not really a cheap or BMW compound. They are either an Akebono NS or Pagid PA high performance street compound, both with GG compound ratings (near the top of any street pad). The dusting is more a consequence of meeting the low temp and high temp friction requirements to meet the GG requirements and also meet the environmental regulations in various jurisdictions (such as less than 0.5% copper, etc).

It would be interesting to know which pad manufacturer you had that failed.

Few aftermarket pads meet or exceed the GG friction certification and in many cases don’t have a certification. The most aggressive pads have no problem in meeting high temp “G” or “H” rating (the second letter), but have problems also meeting the low temp rating (the first letter) at a “G” level.

Your posts are always so far over my head but I love them…

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by NewToM

Your posts are always so far over my head but I love them…

x2 Agreed. Keep 'em coming. Never thought about copper....all I remember is "Cu later, copper!"

[Mr. Hankey]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

I've got the 2000s - got em on a killer sale about 3 months ago.. I was going to have my tech throw 'em on during PDI, however, I just did 2 full sets of pads in 2 other vehicles of mine and it took me like 3 hrs total, for both cars, on jacks - so easy. I already have to yank the wheels and work on the car as soon as take delivery to do a bunch of stuff before I bring it in for PPF.

Thanks for the torque specs! Are the fronts a 90 degree turn too? Or just the rears?

Just the rears get the extra 90 degrees (so they probably end up near 30 ft-lbs). The fronts are actually not necessarily a replaceable part unless there is damage to the nut, which putting them on with the car likely at <100 miles you can just reuse your front flanged nuts. You can likely reuse your rear bolts, just wire brush off the adhesive and apply some blue loctite before replacing (not red loctite ). Having said that the rear bolts are like $3.50 each, maybe having 1 or 2 on hand in case one snaps might not be a bad idea.

[Mr. Hankey]

Delete. App was having a bunch of errors....fixed above on a computer.

In the meantime what do you call a dog with no legs? You don't, he's not coming anyway. This one made my 15 y.o. daughter cry. Dad of the year