[julioengineer]

After adding the sub to my car, it didn’t take long for me to want to upgrade my sound even though the addition of the sub made a big difference. I went ahead and ordered the UP8 and harness. When it arrived I couldn’t wait to install it so here we are. I mounted it on the metal bracket that holds the RAM module with three screws on the top and automotive 3M double sided tape on the middle and bottom.

I then did the power for the amp running the 12v to the battery and the ground to the nut for the module on the bottom of the section. I mistakenly thought that remote turn on was part of the harness but it is not so make sure to run that also. I used a fuse tap to a switched fuse in the rear FB for remote in and used remote out to my sub amp.

After running the power I installed the harness between the RAM and the UP 8. Make sure it seats properly on both sides or you’re going to get errors and the system won’t play. Finally I plugged in the USB cable and ran it to the front where I will leave it wrapped up when not in use and also an RCA “Y” cable to feed the sub amp. Tomorrow I am going to read up on the DSP Tools software and try to tune the system in.

In another post I mentioned not finding a sound setting file at Audiotech Fischer so I have downloaded the one for the F23 to use as a baseline tune. On that note, if anyone has one that sounds good, please share. Also, apparently you can hook up a USB microphone to your laptop and run TuneEQ to tune each channel individually. I’m assuming I can also do the individual channel timing with the mic. Any way, I would appreciate any lessons or tips from someone who is familiar with this software. Hope this post helps someone with their install.

[Ehloo]

so how does it sound compared to stock? worth the upgrade or you need speakers still

Originally Posted by julioengineer

After adding the sub to my car, it didn’t take long for me to want to upgrade my sound even though the addition of the sub made a big difference. I went ahead and ordered the UP8 and harness. When it arrived I couldn’t wait to install it so here we are. I mounted it on the metal bracket that holds the RAM module with three screws on the top and automotive 3M double sided tape on the middle and bottom.

I then did the power for the amp running the 12v to the battery and the ground to the nut for the module on the bottom of the section. I mistakenly thought that remote turn on was part of the harness but it is not so make sure to run that also. I used a fuse tap to a switched fuse in the rear FB for remote in and used remote out to my sub amp.

After running the power I installed the harness between the RAM and the UP 8. Make sure it seats properly on both sides or you’re going to get errors and the system won’t play. Finally I plugged in the USB cable and ran it to the front where I will leave it wrapped up when not in use and also an RCA “Y” cable to feed the sub amp. Tomorrow I am going to read up on the DSP Tools software and try to tune the system in.

In another post I mentioned not finding a sound setting file at Audiotech Fischer so I have downloaded the one for the F23 to use as a baseline tune. On that note, if anyone has one that sounds good, please share. Also, apparently you can hook up a USB microphone to your laptop and run TuneEQ to tune each channel individually. I’m assuming I can also do the individual channel timing with the mic. Any way, I would appreciate any lessons or tips from someone who is familiar with this software. Hope this post helps someone with their install.

[julioengineer]

It sounds much better now and found no immediate need to change the speakers, though if I were to change anything, it would be the 3 front tweeters but not really needed. Take this with a grain of salt though, you definitely have to add a subwoofer to round out the sound in the car. The way I have it configured is for good imaging. The fronts are crossed over 150hz - 3237khz, the center is 125hz - 3237khz, all at 0 db. The rears are 125hz - 3237khz but up 2 db.

Here is where I did something different and thus requiring the need for a sub. I crossed over the underseat subs at 100 - 500 hz using them strictly as mid bass drivers, and up 2 db. The line out is crossed at 20 - 80 hz for the sub amp. I will add pictures of my settings with the distance measurements included.

There is now more headroom for the volume so you don’t have to turn it up as loud and get distortion. Long story short, definitely worth the upgrade and a much better one than the Bavsound speaker upgrade.

[julioengineer]

Here are the pictures of my settings.