[Carefree]

Originally Posted by Ravenseal

You have zero percent credibility now. Lmao. Please give a refund to every single customer you deceived for the last 14 years.

One more thought and I’m out.
My credibility aside, I direct you to a high end loudspeaker manufacturer website such as Klipsch, KEF, Dynaudio, B&W, Focal, Martin Logan, Raidho, Tidal, Sonus, etc. and/or an audiophile periodical such as Stereophile, 6Moons, Stereo Review, etc. and search for “break in”. You may have a difficult time admitting this, but I know what I’m talking about here.

[Ravenseal]

Originally Posted by Carefree

One more thought and I’m out.
My credibility aside, I direct you to a high end loudspeaker manufacturer website such as Klipsch, KEF, Dynaudio, B&W, Focal, Martin Logan, Raidho, Tidal, Sonus, etc. and/or an audiophile periodical such as Stereophile, 6Moons, Stereo Review, etc. and search for “break in”. You may have a difficult time admitting this, but I know what I’m talking about here.

Lol. I bet. Whatever it takes for you to peddle those $5,000 99.9% pure silver cables to idiots, lmao.

[Derko1]

Originally Posted by LCDRJohn

Hey J-RO!

My car is currently frozen in block of ice!

We had an ice storm in NJ and it is 12DegF for the rest of the week. I will put up a screenshot of my settings. I really only mildly tuned it. I reduced the spatial effects by one unit, moved the fader 2 steps forward, and moved the balance 2-3 steps to the passenger side. (the stock imaging, even with a center channel was right next to my A-pillar! LOL) Remember that rear speakers should only be used for "Fill", so moving the slider forward leaves a cleaner soundstage and less of that "smear" that the stock system has. I don't remember what I did to my EQ and will check later after the thaw.

Another interesting thing is that the sound does seem to benefit from some burn-in. I know it is controversial, but after about 5 hours of playing, the depth of the soundstage increased and the harshness diminished.

Please don't forget to post pics of your set up! I'm in north jersey and my car is sitting in the garage of my office since the night it started snowing. Hopefully the storm coming Friday won't have any accumulation.

[iifymbro]

Originally Posted by Ravenseal

Made up nonsense. Speakers don't "break in". Their frequency range is well defined within their design, manufacturing, and function. If anything changes, it's your brain's perception of sound.

Bowers and Wilkins says it's 50-100 hours for their loudspeakers, unless you're saying their engineers know less then you on the topic idk what to tell ya lol

[sammyj]

Originally Posted by iifymbro

Bowers and Wilkins says it's 50-100 hours for their loudspeakers, unless you're saying their engineers know less then you on the topic idk what to tell ya lol

Agreed - lots of snake oil in the audiophile industry, but speaker break in ain’t it. Legit all of my speakers through the years have sounded better with hours.

[micah_675]

Originally Posted by Carefree

Car speakers, similar to home audio speakers, (woofers and mid range only) benefit from 15-25 hours of break in as the stiff cone stretches. Don’t play extremely loud, don’t over equalize low end. Avoid excessively loud break in at very low temperatures.

The only restriction is lower than max and as referenced below Klipsch recommendeds louder than normal to speed up the process. It even says you should play music with varining frequencies. Nothing about equalizer. I'll take Klipschs advice and play music like normal and do what I'd like. Since I play different music and at a little louder than most people would regardless.

Per Klipsch:

Now that you understand why breaking in is important, how do you do it? The easiest answer is simply to play music. However, to break your speakers in well, you’ll want to play something with a large dynamic range, something with solid deep bass, as well as something with a strong high end. Music capable of both will be able to push the speaker to their extremes regularly. You will want to play the music loud, not max volume, just louder than normal. Doing this will help the break-in period occur faster. It will also help to use music that you know well, as you will be able to recognize when the magic starts to happen.

[Carefree]

Originally Posted by micah_675

The only restriction is lower than max and as referenced below Klipsch recommendeds louder than normal to speed up the process. It even says you should play music with varining frequencies. Nothing about equalizer. I'll take Klipschs advice and play music like normal and do what I'd like. Since I play different music and at a little louder than most people would regardless.

Per Klipsch:

Now that you understand why breaking in is important, how do you do it? The easiest answer is simply to play music. However, to break your speakers in well, you’ll want to play something with a large dynamic range, something with solid deep bass, as well as something with a strong high end. Music capable of both will be able to push the speaker to their extremes regularly. You will want to play the music loud, not max volume, just louder than normal. Doing this will help the break-in period occur faster. It will also help to use music that you know well, as you will be able to recognize when the magic starts to happen.

Thank you. Every manufacturer is different. Follow their advice. I’ve met the Klipsch folks at HES. Nice people. Good luck.

[FryCookOnVenus]

Oh gosh, don’t mind Ravenseal, guys.

He’s an active member on this site and his online persona (hopefully not his real personality) is “Hostile know-it-all who is frequently wrong.”

It’s all part of his charm.

[Ravenseal]

Originally Posted by FryCookOnVenus

Oh gosh, don’t mind Ravenseal, guys.

He’s an active member on this site and his online persona (hopefully not his real personality) is “Hostile know-it-all who is frequently wrong.”

It’s all part of his charm.

You're just mad because I put nitogren in my speakers.

[Squidget]

Originally Posted by Ravenseal

You're just mad because I put nitogren in my speakers.

Are you saying my gold-lined stem covers won't make my car faster? Oh noes.

[Searay55555]

Can’t believe the cable bashing has shown up even here. This is the last place I thought I’d see it. 💯 Carefree is right on about component, cable, interconnect, speaker, amplifier, subwoofer break’in. I experienced it in the M2, I’ve experienced it in every pair of new home speakers, subwoofers, cables, amplifiers, control amplifiers, power cables, etc. I just added a digital to digital converter to my home system that sounded great on day one, and sounded like shit on day 2, only to come back around to perfect in day 7. I bought a pair of REL home subwoofers that I had to break in. I played them with bass heavy content in the garage over night. In the morning, the output was double what I left it with when I started the process. When I bought the M2, I told AZG87 that the system sounded like absolute shit with this particular recording. I thought it was the surround mode so I shut it completely off. A few weeks later I added it back and it sounded fine. It was the break’in that I was lacking. This isn’t even worth debating. It just is what it is, and it is this.
By the way, 100% pure silver conductors are the pinnacle of you have a system is very resolving, but isn’t too bright and can support them. If anyone has any of those junkers that they want to unload because they are shite, let me know.

[sammyj]

Back to topic, I don’t think that “On Stage” does anything? Basically just repeats the last setting. I seem to prefer the open soundstage of concert.

[JABCAT]

Originally Posted by sammyj

Back to topic, I don’t think that “On Stage” does anything? Basically just repeats the last setting. I seem to prefer the open soundstage of concert.

I think it's just a little louder than concert, but I also prefer the concert setting.

[Ricochet48]

Originally Posted by Carefree

The HK in our 240i’s sounds better than our M2 but given all the drawbacks of car audio, no big deal. At the end of the day, it’s about the car.

Why is this? Is it not the exact same system?

[techwhiz1]

Originally Posted by M2compcharlie

Has anyone with Harman Kardon used Bimmercode to add Bowers & Wilkins sound settings and if so what’s the difference?

Yes, I've done it on my i4.

Add different soundstage snd EQ settings.

Night and day.

I'll also stay above the fray, but I worked designing high end audio and signal processing hardware for digital recording.

There are plenty of myths in this thread.

[BroDoze]

Rumor is these are unavailable to code using BimmerCode on iD8.5 on the MY25 LCIs.

[Carefree]

Originally Posted by Ricochet48

Why is this? Is it not the exact same system?

If in fact the audio components are identical (not sure of that) the difference lies within the space itself. In home audio the room is actually a component. Its’ shape, size, and surfaces all contribute to resultant sound. The same components in another room with different curtains, rugs, windows, walls, will change what the listener hears.

That being said, I suspect the differences in my cars’ reflecting surfaces i.e. glass, carbon fiber, leather, plastic, rubber are all contributing to what you referenced.

[yash27]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Rumor is these are unavailable to code using BimmerCode on iD8.5 on the MY25 LCIs.

Bavsound upgrade it is!