[aerobod]

A cold idling vehicle just takes longer for the oil to warm up and also has cold transmission and differential oil when you do start moving. Gentle driving immediately after start warms all the components faster, getting to optimum operating temperature sooner.

Here where it can drop to -40C in the winter, I don’t know of any vehicles that have had excessive engine wear due to the normal practice of starting the vehicle and driving off immediately, as long as the windows are clear of snow and ice.

[BroDoze]

Many SAs are some of the most clueless folks you’ll meet.

Cannot believe some of the dumb crap I’ve heard them say.

[nicoG87]

Originally Posted by aerobod

A cold idling vehicle just takes longer for the oil to warm up and also has cold transmission and differential oil when you do start moving. Gentle driving immediately after start warms all the components faster, getting to optimum operating temperature sooner.

Here where it can drop to -40C in the winter, I don’t know of any vehicles that have had excessive engine wear due to the normal practice of starting the vehicle and driving off immediately, as long as the windows are clear of snow and ice.

I definitely agree not going overboard with idling the engine, like till the oil is op temp. But I was advised to wait for the RPMs to drop for the transmission before driving off. This is usually 2 mins tops, which is the time taken for me to connect my phone, set up Waze and BimmerLink. And the digital oil temp gauge is hard to read, unless i switch to bimmerlink. i am starting to get good at spotting when the idle ihas dropped but still elevated (~high 800s, low 900s). I tried waiting it out, but when it takes more than 5 mins i got concerned why it does that. never seen the mid tier idle elevation last more than a min in my B48 car.

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Many SAs are some of the most clueless folks you’ll meet.

Cannot believe some of the dumb crap I’ve heard them say.

Point taken, I’ve had one quote me the wrong oil specs. But the guy that advised me about the startup RPMs is one of the best SAs I’ve ever met. I’d ask him about this , but he’s been promoted into a management role. Good for him, sucks for us owners.

Ultimately it's wasteful to idle the engine, I hate wasting resources and i'm more than happy to do the moderate driving thing. Hoping more owners have some insights to share on the mid range elevated idle and why it does that.

[KC87ZB]

nicoG87 if you are in Malaysia then I cannot imagine any scenario where you would idle more than 30 seconds. Waiting for the idle to drop or engine temps to rise in a tropical climate is not needed.

For those in a cold environment, maybe a hair of idle time just to get fully circulated (same 30 seconds) then gently drive until temps are up to normal. Long cold idle times slowly warm the engine and oil and do nothing for transmission or differential.

80% of the SA's (any brand) are complete car idiots and are not mechanics. The other 20% can never be found to talk to.

[kraken]

I do about 30 seconds and slowly drive off.

[Nuhi]

Originally Posted by nicoG87

But I was advised to wait for the RPMs to drop for the transmission before driving off.

High idle is to warm up the catalytic converters. Nothing more, nothing less. Get in and drive.

[nicoG87]

Originally Posted by KC87ZB

nicoG87 if you are in Malaysia then I cannot imagine any scenario where you would idle more than 30 seconds. Waiting for the idle to drop or engine temps to rise in a tropical climate is not needed.

Yeah, oil temps aren’t really the concern for me. It’s thr question on the elevated idle behavior and engaging gear while it is still elevated.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by nicoG87

Yeah, oil temps aren’t really the concern for me. It’s thr question on the elevated idle behavior and engaging gear while it is still elevated.

A few times I have not wanted to wait until RPMs drop in my M2 and when I step on the clutch or touch the gas pedal the RPMs drop prematurely to near normal speed and I then shift into gear and move the car out of the garage and I'm on my way.

With a M2 with an automatic I'd be surprised if the RPMs don't drop when you shift from P to D (or R). But if the RPMs don't drop while still in P just give the gas pedal a tiny push and after the RPMs drop then shift into D (R).

[RobM2]

I always wait for the revs to drop but for me it happens within seconds not minutes.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by RobM2

I always wait for the revs to drop but for me it happens within seconds not minutes.

99% of the time I wait for RPMs to drop as like you said it drops within seconds.

But once in a great while I'm running late and well, it seems like I need those few seconds.

Even though I don't wait for the RPMs to drop -- they do drop as I get the car moving -- I am easy on the car until the engine is up to temperature.

[Geighty7]

Love coming back to this thread after some time. Lot of great valid points here.

I now lean on the side of “start and go” unless I’m in frozen temps.

The G87 I was referring to at the beginning of this post is no longer this me. I thankfully (thank you insurance) was able to grab another brand new one. This time around I literally start up and typically wait for the RPM drop more out of OCD rather than logic then go lol.

I have my car tuned now and have cold start off (so no rpm drop). So now I start up my car, fidget with plugging my phone into the charger, pick a song, and just go. That all takes maybe 30 seconds or less.

I drive normally (manual trans) until temps are up and then I drive a bit more spirited if I am feeling it.

[nicoG87]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

A few times I have not wanted to wait until RPMs drop in my M2 and when I step on the clutch or touch the gas pedal the RPMs drop prematurely to near normal speed and I then shift into gear and move the car out of the garage and I'm on my way.

With a M2 with an automatic I'd be surprised if the RPMs don't drop when you shift from P to D (or R). But if the RPMs don't drop while still in P just give the gas pedal a tiny push and after the RPMs drop then shift into D (R).

Yes, the elevated idle does drop slightly when going into gear from P, but remains elevated.

Originally Posted by RobM2

I always wait for the revs to drop but for me it happens within seconds not minutes.

Its usually takes <1.5 mins on a cold start to drop to 700RPM range. on occasion it gets stuck on a medium elevated idle for longer. after reading some comments from here, going to try observing coolant and exhaust temps to see if theres a link.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by nicoG87

Yes, the elevated idle does drop slightly when going into gear from P, but remains elevated.



Its usually takes <1.5 mins on a cold start to drop to 700RPM range. on occasion it gets stuck on a medium elevated idle for longer. after reading some comments from here, going to try observing coolant and exhaust temps to see if theres a link.

The torque converter stall speed on the ZF8 transmission is somewhere around 2,200RPM, so even at elevated idle it isn’t close to the lock-up point and should have no detrimental effect in engaging drive.

Here in Canada, idling a vehicle in some cities when not in traffic is regulated (for example only 1 minute per hour is allowed in Toronto). We don’t have any issues in starting a vehicle and driving off immediately in very cold temperatures, or see any effect on vehicle engine life due to such practices.

[Lagunatic]

I don’t or I’d be late picking up the child.

[chris719]

Wait 10 seconds and drive gently. That's it.