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BMW 2 Series Technical Topics (G42) Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB | Recalls

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      09-01-2024, 09:10 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJZ67201 View Post
I use the floor jack method as well, in combination with the Jack Rod (the whimsy of the name does not escape me). It makes it safe to get under the vehicle while using a Jack instead of relying on just the hydrolic pressure. Makes it easy to lower the vehicle back to level ground to ensure maximum draining and significantly reduces overall time spent fiddling with the ramps

https://a.co/d/244trnI
Is that universal? I just bought a new harbor freight jack, and i wouldnt mind eliminating a ramp from my oil change process.
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      09-02-2024, 03:37 AM   #200
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Is that universal? I just bought a new harbor freight jack, and i wouldnt mind eliminating a ramp from my oil change process.
Yep, I do highly recommend. Works with most jacks from what I’ve seen. No issues with mine so far, super solid
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      10-24-2024, 03:30 PM   #201
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Picked up my '25 M240i xdrive about 2 months ago, about 800 miles now, and plan on doing the oil change around the 1200 miles mark.

I have been using some 2x4 to get the car high enough to get to the center jack point, then to stabilize it by putting two jack stands, (That's how I did my undercoating), and then lowering it on the jack stands. I will probably repeat this process when performing the oil change.

Any recommendations, as this seems to take quite some time just for setting up?
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      10-24-2024, 03:33 PM   #202
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What center jack point? TJZ67201

Last edited by MPR; 10-24-2024 at 03:33 PM..
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      10-24-2024, 03:40 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPR View Post
What center jack point? TJZ67201

See this attachment from the BMW service manual
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File Type: pdf Raising vehicle with floor jack.pdf (541.4 KB, 30 views)
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      10-24-2024, 04:02 PM   #204
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Gotcha, ive been wondering about that little circle, glad to see it confirmed
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      10-24-2024, 04:09 PM   #205
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Gotcha, ive been wondering about that little circle, glad to see it confirmed
Yeah, the only thing I haven't done is jack up the car from the rear diff as it seemed kind of sketchy when I was under the car and there isn't a good flat surface to jack it up. So still need to find a way to get the car on all 4 jacks stand eventually to swap the rear diff fluid.
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      10-24-2024, 08:54 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baby_G42M View Post
Yeah, the only thing I haven't done is jack up the car from the rear diff as it seemed kind of sketchy when I was under the car and there isn't a good flat surface to jack it up. So still need to find a way to get the car on all 4 jacks stand eventually to swap the rear diff fluid.
I am giving up on DIY maintenance beyond oil changes and brake pads with this car. With my prior cars (BRZ, Integra GSR, S2000) I did almost everything. My garage isnt huge and this car is big and heavy, I just dont want to bother with it. If i had a big garage with a lift it would be a different story.

Last edited by MPR; 10-24-2024 at 08:55 PM..
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      10-24-2024, 11:00 PM   #207
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Is it 100% necessary to have the car level for an oil change?
I changed the oil on my 135i all the time with ramps and didn't have any issues.
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      10-25-2024, 05:55 AM   #208
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Is it 100% necessary to have the car level for an oil change?
I changed the oil on my 135i all the time with ramps and didn't have any issues.
Oil will come out but not all. Think about the logic/physics (is that the right word?), the drain bolt is on the bottom of the pan, if the car is on an angle, the oil will pool up in the corner of the pan opposite of your jacking point and never reach the drain hole.

I jack up the front, remove the drain bolt to begin draining, lower the car back down for 10 minutes to let it completely drain, jack it back up and put the drain plug back in, lower the car again and then put the new filter in and add oil.

Last edited by MPR; 10-25-2024 at 05:57 AM..
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      10-31-2024, 11:55 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPR View Post
Oil will come out but not all. Think about the logic/physics (is that the right word?), the drain bolt is on the bottom of the pan, if the car is on an angle, the oil will pool up in the corner of the pan opposite of your jacking point and never reach the drain hole.

I jack up the front, remove the drain bolt to begin draining, lower the car back down for 10 minutes to let it completely drain, jack it back up and put the drain plug back in, lower the car again and then put the new filter in and add oil.
I change the filter during that 10min gap while the car is down draining 😉 then lift it back up to put the plug in
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      10-31-2024, 12:00 PM   #210
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Quote:
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I change the filter during that 10min gap while the car is down draining 😉 then lift it back up to put the plug in
Yeah I do that too actually
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      11-01-2024, 01:43 AM   #211
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Putting the m240 on rhinoramps on level ground would produce 4.5° of elevation. I don't think it matters much with the design of the oil pan.
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