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      Today, 10:42 AM   #1
TallGibbs
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G87 M2 - Front Jack Point DIY (Wheel Change)

Here is a quick DIY for how to jack up your G87 M2 so you can do your own maintenance. In my case, was putting my winter wheels on today.

Skill Required = 2 out of 5 (mainly because if you mess this up, you put yourself at a significant safety risk). Not that this is hard to do skill wise, just a safety concern for those with 0 mechanical background.

Tools Required = 17mm socket (regular), 17mm impact socket (to initially loosen the bolts), socket extension (to not scrape the wheels), torque wrench (ideally up to 120 ft-lbs, but mine only goes to 100 ft-lbs), jack, jacking "pad" for center point, jack stand, jack stand adapter (for side jack stand point).
Note: I am using a "regular" jack for this; I did not have to buy a "low profile" or "high lift" jack. Just my regular Craftsman 2 and 1/4 ton jack had enough lift, from the center jack point to get the front jack stands under the car. My car is OEM height, so those with HAS (or any other lowering equipment), might need the "low profile" jack.

Steps:
  1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels you are going to swap out. You need to do this before jacking the car up (especially on the front wheels). If you jack them up first, when you try and loosen them, the wheel will just spin and not loosen the lug nut
  2. Place jack, and jacking "pad" under the center mount lift point. This is the "circle" or "donut" under the car, just behind the oil cooler. Using the jacking "pad" helps ensure the jack does not slip out and gives you a flatter surface to target. Here is the jacking "pad" I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V32536W...sin_title&th=1
  3. Jack up the car high enough to slide your side jack stand with jack stand adapter under the side points. Here is the jack stand adapter I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  4. Slowly lower the car back down so the weight is on the jack stand, and leave the jack under the car as a secondary safety measure. You can also slide something under the side of the car to be a last resort to catch the car if everything fails. Historically, I would place the wheel under the car that I am going to put on next but the 19" wheels are too tall to get under the car with my "regular" jack.
  5. Now you can finish removing the lug nuts (which you already loosened), take the old wheel off, put the new wheel on and moderately tighten all the lug nuts again. While you are down here, do an inspection of your brake pads, brake cooling ducts, suspension, etc just to make sure everything looks good, tight and not damaged.
  6. Raise the car again slightly, remove the jack stand from the side, then lower the car back to the ground.
  7. Finish securing the lug nuts, tighten to at least 100 ft-lb (this is all my torque wrench goes up to). I think I saw previously someone say 105 to 115 ft-lb target. I just added a bit more of my body weight after the torque wrench went "click".
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      Today, 10:43 AM   #2
TallGibbs
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Note: for anyone about to comment about my lack of oil cooler skid plate protection. This is going to be installed tonight, so just under 400 miles into the car's life so please no heart attacks
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