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      10-31-2023, 10:03 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///M TOWN View Post
I always hardwire mine

Makes it easy to plug and unplug on the fly
Same here, got tired of having to pop open the hood every time. Hardwired the CTEK and never looked back.
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      11-02-2023, 09:29 PM   #24
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      11-03-2023, 11:57 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trogster View Post
Indeed.

I have rubber sheets ...


I use a DIN connection on my motorcycle for my tender so it is a quick park and plug, but that's because the MC has a DIN socket that's always on. I'm going to hardwire in an SAE connector for the M2 and just zip tie the end where I can reach it without popping the hood.

Trogster, you'll be fine disconnecting the battery for that duration but also with care you can do it live. That said, you should use a method you are comfortable with.
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      11-03-2023, 12:25 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC87ZB View Post


I use a DIN connection on my motorcycle for my tender so it is a quick park and plug, but that's because the MC has a DIN socket that's always on. I'm going to hardwire in an SAE connector for the M2 and just zip tie the end where I can reach it without popping the hood.

Trogster, you'll be fine disconnecting the battery for that duration but also with care you can do it live. That said, you should use a method you are comfortable with.

I elected to wire the CTEK connector live.

I took numerous (perhaps excessive) precautions to ensure no ground path:

1- Wrapped rubber sheet around engine bay cross brace
2- Wrapped my ratchet/extension/Torx fitting with duct tape
3- Wore rubber gloves
4- Wore sweat pants/sweater with no zippers
5- Wore trainers with rubber soles

No issues to report. The entire process took perhaps 5-minutes.

Last edited by Trogster; 11-04-2023 at 11:27 AM..
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      11-03-2023, 12:55 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trogster View Post
I elected to wired the CTEK connector live.

I took numerous (perhaps excessive) precautions to ensure no ground path:

1- Wrapped rubber sheet around engine bay cross brace
2- Wrapped my ratchet/extension/Torx fitting with duct tape
3- Wore rubber gloves
4- Wore sweat pants/sweater with no zippers
5- Wore trainers with rubber soles

No issues to report. The entire process took perhaps 5-minutes.
That's beyond excessive.

Understandable you shielded the area around the leads, but it was unnecessary to wear gloves, rubber soled shoes, etc. Car batteries have too low of a voltage and can't electrocute or pass current through you. If you grab both positive and negative terminals with your bare hands nothing will happen. If you grabbed the positive terminal and were standing barefoot on the ground which had a metal sheet on it nothing would happen.

You would however make an excellent BEVs tech!
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      11-03-2023, 01:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag View Post
That's beyond excessive.

Understandable you shielded the area around the leads, but it was unnecessary to wear gloves, rubber soled shoes, etc. Car batteries have too low of a voltage and can't electrocute or pass current through you. If you grab both positive and negative terminals with your bare hands nothing will happen. If you grabbed the positive terminal and were standing barefoot on the ground which had a metal sheet on it nothing would happen.

You would however make an excellent BEVs tech!


I have a pacemaker.
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      11-03-2023, 01:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trogster View Post
I have a pacemaker.
Sorry, it all makes sense now.
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      11-03-2023, 01:33 PM   #30
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The CTEK 0.8 is working well for me to keep the battery in good shape, suspended above the car for easy access, plus a piece of shop towel on the door handle to remind me the car is plugged in:
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      11-30-2023, 04:56 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag View Post
Same here, got tired of having to pop open the hood every time. Hardwired the CTEK and never looked back.
Tag Where does the connector come out from under the hood? Are you able to share a pic. Thanks
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      11-30-2023, 05:20 PM   #32
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My Z06 gets less than 1k mi/year. It sits for months at a time & is always on a CTEK tender. No issues.
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      12-15-2024, 12:40 PM   #33
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Where is suggested location to connect the negative on the G87 for ground when using trickle charger? I think I see it bolted to inside the fender with a torx bolt.
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      12-15-2024, 12:46 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewNewM2 View Post
Where is suggested location to connect the negative on the G87 for ground when using trickle charger? I think I see it bolted to inside the fender with a torx bolt.
Any nut that goes to the grounded chassis that has bare metal. Use a voltmeter between the connector ends of the tender connector to make sure it's connected to a ground.
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      12-15-2024, 12:56 PM   #35
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From the Drivers Guide:
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      12-15-2024, 03:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
From the Drivers Guide:
That is what I use in winter storage with my battery conditioner. Currently in 2nd winter. 1st went w/o any problem in the spring.
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      12-15-2024, 07:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
From the Drivers Guide:
Thanks! I found this in the manual and #7 is the Negative terminal. I’ve seen when people hardwire the trickle charger they will connect directly to this terminal post but if you’re jumping it or using Alligator clips with the charger, supposed to clamp negative somewhere else that’s bare that connects to chasis for grounding avoiding painted pieces because they may insulate too much. TBH I’m not sure why different recommendations between hardwire or the clips. I will probably just hardwire it in anyway
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      12-15-2024, 09:29 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrewNewM2 View Post
Thanks! I found this in the manual and #7 is the Negative terminal. I’ve seen when people hardwire the trickle charger they will connect directly to this terminal post but if you’re jumping it or using Alligator clips with the charger, supposed to clamp negative somewhere else that’s bare that connects to chasis for grounding avoiding painted pieces because they may insulate too much. TBH I’m not sure why different recommendations between hardwire or the clips. I will probably just hardwire it in anyway
Many charger manufacturers say to use a chassis point away from the battery to avoid the risk of a battery explosion when it is near the connection and a spark occurs due to an inherent battery load, when hydrogen may have outgassed from a stressed battery.

This is not necessary with a BMW when the battery is in the boot / trunk. BMW only recommend using the supplied terminal in the engine compartment.
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      Today, 08:50 AM   #39
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I hardwired my tender lead straight to the battery and have it hanging under the rear of the car. Use it daily and it works perfectly- no opening hoods or trunks. I’ve disconnected the battery many times for amplifier installs and seat removals - no issues. Why on earth would you not just use a tender?
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