[IanH]

Originally Posted by ifound2pac

Oh I meant you can get your money back

Yeah that's the plan, if I end up finding that they actually don't fit. Should have the other parts by next week at the latest.

It still may be that I just need to pull the bumper to get them to clip in, but I am doubtful of that. The clips are not very precise compared to oem. That said, like 10/12 per side did clip in.

[JoeyJoeJo]

Originally Posted by elprincep

which brand of low springs are u using? how many mm did u lowered?

AC Schnitzer, listed as 15-20mm

Warranty was a big part of it, as well as the springs, they cover certain related parts that BMW may deny because of the modification.

For suspension it's upper and lower control arms, axles and mountings, steering swivel pins and rings, suspension arm rings.

I'd consider their piggyback tune if were a bit cheaper.

[ifound2pac]

Originally Posted by JoeyJoeJo

AC Schnitzer, listed as 15-20mm

Warranty was a big part of it, as well as the springs, they cover certain related parts that BMW may deny because of the modification.

For suspension it's upper and lower control arms, axles and mountings, steering swivel pins and rings, suspension arm rings.

I'd consider their piggyback tune if were a bit cheaper.

You and IanH are really making me consider lowering springs now lol.
About to pull the trigger on some new tires first, squared 245/35 Conti Extreme 2S... then I need to figure out how lowering springs and spacers work

BTW are y'all running staggered wheels? Thoughts on 245s all around vs 255s in rear for stagger when it comes to lowering?

[IanH]

Originally Posted by ifound2pac

You and IanH are really making me consider lowering springs now lol.
About to pull the trigger on some new tires first, squared 245/35 Conti Extreme 2S... then I need to figure out how lowering springs and spacers work

Cliffs Notes

Lowering springs, cheap to buy, expensive to install. Quotes for install around me from good shops with alignment ranged from 1300-1850

Many good options on 20mm lowering springs, I wouldn't go lower IMO.

Spacers, if using stock wheels, use a 12mm spacer all around. Some squeeze a 15 in the back. You can buy spacers from many companies that are good. Dinan, Burger, Future Classic, Turner, just to name a few.

[ifound2pac]

Originally Posted by IanH

Cliffs Notes

Lowering springs, cheap to buy, expensive to install. Quotes for install around me from good shops with alignment ranged from 1300-1850

Many good options on 20mm lowering springs, I wouldn't go lower IMO.

Spacers, if using stock wheels, use a 12mm spacer all around. Some squeeze a 15 in the back. You can buy spacers from many companies that are good. Dinan, Burger, Future Classic, Turner, just to name a few.

Gah damn. I didn't think it would be that expensive to install them 🙈. Then again I don't know Jack about what that entails.

Maybe, just maybe I'll opt for a Dinan Intake first 😅. Tomorrow is finally muffler shop day though to get the catback installed so super excited for that

[Littlecoupe]

Friday night, I removed my ID8 screen and vents/trim from the dash. I had far too many temperature related clicks, ticks, and cracks coming from the interior, and I thought it was coming from the vent assemblies behind the dash trim.

Once the dash trim was removed (screen needs to come off to do this), I added some fabric tape between the vent assemblies and the dash trim to remove the plastic-on-plastic interface. The car seemed more quiet this morning, but it's only been 1 drive. Time will tell, but I also haven't noticed any new noises after this process.

Things to note:
-The trim piece under the screen above the steering column was pretty tight to get out.
-The screen wasn't very hard to remove, but when pulling and rocking up/out to remove it, it "jumped" out of all the retainers in the dash. No harm done for me, but I suggest a second set of hands to hold the middle of the screen while removing the opposite end - just to reduce risk. You don't want to smash the screen against the windshield, dash or trim.
-The "wire" on the driver side vent doesn't connect to anything on the vent. Just pop it out of the holder on the bottom of the vent. Not sure why that is there and where it goes, seem like a jumper, I don't understand why it is connected to the vent.

I used this video as a reference on how to remove the screen, it's comprehensive enough. As for the vents, he removed the driver vent. The passenger vent is the same, except all in 1 long piece. Just exercise patience popping the clips out, it's fairly snug. The driver vent was a little hassle to put back in, just need to align it and it will go in. Took about 5 minutes to put back in.

[JoeyJoeJo]

Originally Posted by ifound2pac

You and IanH are really making me consider lowering springs now lol.
About to pull the trigger on some new tires first, squared 245/35 Conti Extreme 2S... then I need to figure out how lowering springs and spacers work

BTW are y'all running staggered wheels? Thoughts on 245s all around vs 255s in rear for stagger when it comes to lowering?

I am stock 19 staggered summers, OEM 18 square winters, no spacers on either, not interested in those.

[elprincep]

Originally Posted by IanH

Cliffs Notes

Lowering springs, cheap to buy, expensive to install. Quotes for install around me from good shops with alignment ranged from 1300-1850

Many good options on 20mm lowering springs, I wouldn't go lower IMO.

Spacers, if using stock wheels, use a 12mm spacer all around. Some squeeze a 15 in the back. You can buy spacers from many companies that are good. Dinan, Burger, Future Classic, Turner, just to name a few.

1300-1850 ??????? I think they scammed you, man.

You don't notice anything "weird" from not having changed the shocks? Do you think the adaptive shocks adapt well to the new springs? I've decided that I'll install the springs, but when the shocks are worn out, I'll switch to sporty ones so everything works better.

[IanH]

I didn't get scammed. It takes 8 hours to install the springs. The shop I used has an immaculate reputation and charges 175/hr. It was 1400 with alignment. They actually charged me less than they quoted because it took slightly less time than predicted by their computer system.

I have all the tools and know how to diy... but it would probably take me 10-12hrs and it's brutal work on jack stands.

The install is also warrantied for a year against workmanship defects.

[Pentland]

Originally Posted by IanH

I didn't get scammed. It takes 8 hours to install the springs.

It shouldn’t. Unless Ray Charles is the mech.

[kudos]

I was quoted $835 w/ alignment for spring install. I searched this forum first and saw everyone in my entire area that was worthy enough also charged about the same. I should be getting it done once my spacers arrive in a couple weeks.

[IanH]

IDK what to tell you, I quoted 6 different shops. 1850 was way out of line, but all the others were right around the same, went with the best shop. Guess labor is way more per hr here...

I don't like to mess around trying to find the lowest price, too many experiences (including some recent) where trying to save money just ends up burning you because they fuck it up.

[kudos]

Originally Posted by IanH

IDK what to tell you, I quoted 6 different shops. 1850 was way out of line, but all the others were right around the same, went with the best shop. Guess labor is way more per hr here...

I don't like to mess around trying to find the lowest price, too many experiences (including some recent) where trying to save money just ends up burning you because they fuck it up.

Yes, I would pay more if I knew I could trust a place. I am lucky in that the place I have had everything else done at also charges about the same in my area.

[wb8164]

Installing lowering springs is a straightforward job that requires a few specialty tools. I don't know what the book rate regarding hrs to complete, but in my opinion, no pro is going to spend anywhere close to 8 hrs. to do the job. Here's a good video showing the job. There are a few more steps if you have x-drive, but it's still not a bad job. If you are used to doing some wrenching, it's a definite DYI. The other thing to be aware of is that you are better off lowering your car and then driving 200 or so miles before getting an alignment. That way your suspension is fully settled prior setting the alignment to spec.

[kudos]

Originally Posted by wb8164

Installing lowering springs is a straightforward job that requires a few specialty tools. I don't know what the book rate regarding hrs to complete, but in my opinion, no pro is going to spend anywhere close to 8 hrs. to do the job. Here's a good video showing the job. There are a few more steps if you have x-drive, but it's still not a bad job. If you are used to doing some wrenching, it's a definite DYI. The other thing to be aware of is that you are better off lowering your car and then driving 200 or so miles before getting an alignment. That way your suspension is fully settled prior setting the alignment to spec.

Honestly, after watching this I'd rather just pay someone to do it.

[JoeyJoeJo]

Just looked at my bill out of curiosity.
Rear Springs - 1.6 hours
Front Springs - 3.2 hours
4 wheel alignment - 1 hour