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      08-12-2024, 04:49 PM   #3433
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Awron CANflap goes in Wednesday to supplement my Milltek catback non-res. I’m thinking my neighbors will be upset.
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      08-12-2024, 08:11 PM   #3434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewToM View Post
I either back in or have my wife get out and guide me after I had a similar close call.
I got cocky. Thinking I must be like a foot from the curb. Get out of the car and checked… what!!!!
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      08-12-2024, 08:29 PM   #3435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkNight707 View Post
I got cocky. Thinking I must be like a foot from the curb. Get out of the car and checked… what!!!!
No damage done so you good!!!
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      08-13-2024, 10:37 AM   #3436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geighty7 View Post
Awron CANflap goes in Wednesday to supplement my Milltek catback non-res. I’m thinking my neighbors will be upset.
Meh neighbors. Get after it!

All jokes aside at least valves closed on cold start is still reasonable compared to not.
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      08-13-2024, 11:29 AM   #3437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZG87 View Post
Meh neighbors. Get after it!

All jokes aside at least valves closed on cold start is still reasonable compared to not.
Yeah the only issue is I hear you have to manually click valves closed from inside, so if I forget that is a big uh oh lol. They are pre programmed to always start open I believe
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      08-13-2024, 03:09 PM   #3438
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Hey, just wanted to share:

@G87_Andrew

TRE T87 Carbon Kit
AST Adjustable Lowering Springs
Project Gamma Carbon Front Mount Intakes
Full PPF
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VF008-2
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      08-13-2024, 04:24 PM   #3439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geighty7 View Post
Yeah the only issue is I hear you have to manually click valves closed from inside, so if I forget that is a big uh oh lol. They are pre programmed to always start open I believe

Mine will remain in the same position they were in qhen I shut the car off last. OK, so that means open cause they are always open. 😂

No complaints from my neighbors although my community are acre plus lots so they aren't that close. In my parking garage at work, there is a Tesla that parked behind me (I back in) that is usually gone before I leave...but every once in a while, it's alarm time baby (that's what one gets for driving a Tesla).
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      08-13-2024, 05:03 PM   #3440
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Well I got tired of getting insane quotes of $1300-$1900 to do a damn spring install from all the DFW BMW shops, so I just said screw it - I've done it myself on every other car I have owned.

And let me tell you, they all quote it being an 8-10 hour job - it took me literally 4 hours and that was on jackstands. You don't even have to remove the struts or use spring compressors. For the rears, you have to remove ONE bolt (though it is sort of a PITA)

Anyway, here's some pictures of my H&R install day. Waiting to take pics of the car after they settle for a week or so.





You definitely need the side cutout 18mm. My mini wrench and 1/4" adapter made the perfect anti-rotator.



For the rears you have to remove the fully threaded lower control arm inboard bolt, allowing the arm to swing down to access the spring. I had to also lower my exhaust to get clearance since the bolt is about 6" long. When reassembling, you need to use 2 jacks to get the control arm to line back up with the bearing.



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      08-13-2024, 05:11 PM   #3441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cefoskey View Post
Well I got tired of getting insane quotes of $1300-$1900 to do a damn spring install from all the DFW BMW shops, so I just said screw it - I've done it myself on every other car I have owned.

And let me tell you, they all quote it being an 8-10 hour job - it took me literally 4 hours and that was on jackstands. You don't even have to remove the struts or use spring compressors. For the rears, you have to remove ONE bolt (though it is sort of a PITA)

Anyway, here's some pictures of my H&R install day. Waiting to take pics of the car after they settle for a week or so.





You definitely need the side cutout 18mm. My mini wrench and 1/4" adapter made the perfect anti-rotator.



For the rears you have to remove the fully threaded lower control arm inboard bolt, allowing the arm to swing down to access the spring. I had to also lower my exhaust to get clearance since the bolt is about 6" long. When reassembling, you need to use 2 jacks to get the control arm to line back up with the bearing.



Sounds like I’m bringing my car to your place!
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      08-13-2024, 10:03 PM   #3442
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Me too. I’ll buy beer.

Any issues with the electrical connections on the top of the front struts? Some folks I guess have broken those connectors on the strut-side, resulting in having to buy whole new struts.

Do we have torque specs for all said bolts? I’ve gotta throw my Eibach Pros on when I take delivery.

Those front springs must not be under much pre-load if you were able to get them re-installed like you did.
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      08-13-2024, 10:13 PM   #3443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VFJon View Post
Hey, just wanted to share:

@G87_Andrew

I miss going to that spot. Used to live like 10 mins from there
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      08-13-2024, 10:29 PM   #3444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BroDoze View Post
Me too. I’ll buy beer.

Any issues with the electrical connections on the top of the front struts? Some folks I guess have broken those connectors on the strut-side, resulting in having to buy whole new struts.

Do we have torque specs for all said bolts? I’ve gotta throw my Eibach Pros on when I take delivery.

Those front springs must not be under much pre-load if you were able to get them re-installed like you did.
Those connectors are small but have pretty solid feel when plugged in. I suppose if you didn't notice they are directional you could just jam it in there and break them.

I looked for torques but came up empty, even for G80s

The fronts are under nearly zero preload when the car is jacked up. Once you remove the top nut, the entire suspension drops further (I had mine on a jack and let it lower slowly) and you can angle it outboard to remove the spring. This is why you remove the level sensor, brake and electrical line bracket, and endlink top. Once the new spring is on you just guide it back into the top hat and use the jack steadily upward
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      08-14-2024, 10:48 AM   #3445
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Installed single mid pipe last weekend . Very happy with the result ..

Mid pipe + sst valve controller = amazing sound. .

Sound clip link :
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      08-14-2024, 12:02 PM   #3446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a358970751 View Post
Installed single mid pipe last weekend . Very happy with the result .

Mid pipe + sst valve controller = amazing sound. .

Sound clip link :
Which midpipe is this? Sounds great.
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      08-14-2024, 12:04 PM   #3447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a358970751 View Post
Installed single mid pipe last weekend . Very happy with the result .

Mid pipe + sst valve controller = amazing sound. .

Sound clip link :

Non resonated? Sounded good!
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      08-14-2024, 12:11 PM   #3448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a358970751 View Post
Installed single mid pipe last weekend . Very happy with the result .
That thing makes some noise for sure. Do you have aftermarket downpipes and/or different axle back, or is all that stuff still stock? Asking as I'm thinking doing a mid-pipe only and leaving the downpipes and axleback stock.
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      08-14-2024, 01:54 PM   #3449
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I’m sure this has been answered, but can the cracks and bangs be coded out? I like the increases volume but really dont like the rest. Looking for something like my S54 with Supersprint.
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      08-14-2024, 03:07 PM   #3450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LAGWAGN View Post
I’m sure this has been answered, but can the cracks and bangs be coded out? I like the increases volume but really dont like the rest. Looking for something like my S54 with Supersprint.
The easiest method is to get a valve controller (e.g., SST). You set the valves to open and then click the OEM exhaust button in the middle console. The fake noises from the speakers and the pops/bangs turn off.

I have an AA EL Mid and SST controller. I love opening the valves and clicking the exhaust button (which turns off fake noise and pops/bangs). This is the best way for me to enjoy the different sounds of the engine
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      08-14-2024, 03:36 PM   #3451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daddyjaxx View Post
The easiest method is to get a valve controller (e.g., SST). You set the valves to open and then click the OEM exhaust button in the middle console. The fake noises from the speakers and the pops/bangs turn off.

I have an AA EL Mid and SST controller. I love opening the valves and clicking the exhaust button (which turns off fake noise and pops/bangs). This is the best way for me to enjoy the different sounds of the engine
That’s awesome, thanks for sharing! I totally get the pops and bangs and do like them, but I’d rather not have them on all the time while in Sport Plus mode. I saw a video from Valvetronic where he does exactly what you described to turn that off, but I was wondering if this also worked with the SST controller. That’s great to know, since I should be getting my SST valve controller this Friday. I’m planning to install that along with the ER midpipe.
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      08-14-2024, 04:19 PM   #3452
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Did an Awron CANflap install to supplement my Milltek catback non res. Honestly I think my car is over the top loud and sounds like gunfire at all times lmfao.

Posting a nice video soon. Will link.

Chose Awron due to using the OE button inside for everything and parameter setting. IMO I’d rather not fumble with a BT device or have it wired to my garage button. This just feels much cleaner. I set the parameters to blast open my valves at 3k rpm no matter what drive mode I’m in. If I am in my M2 mode, the valves remain 100% open.

To start the car without valves open, I just shut them before starting the car up. This won’t work for remote start, but I don’t have remote start so who cares.
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      08-14-2024, 04:28 PM   #3453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geighty7 View Post
Did an Awron CANflap install to supplement my Milltek catback non res. Honestly I think my car is over the top loud and sounds like gunfire at all times lmfao.

Posting a nice video soon. Will link.

Chose Awron due to using the OE button inside for everything and parameter setting. IMO I’d rather not fumble with a BT device or have it wired to my garage button. This just feels much cleaner. I set the parameters to blast open my valves at 3k rpm no matter what drive mode I’m in. If I am in my M2 mode, the valves remain 100% open.

To start the car without valves open, I just shut them before starting the car up. This won’t work for remote start, but I don’t have remote start so who cares.

I was looking to get the SST Valve Controller but this Awron seems to give you a bit more while being more "stock" as in it doesn't need a fob or anything.

Is the install for it pretty straight forward?

Last edited by BradMX5; 08-20-2024 at 04:23 PM..
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      08-14-2024, 04:33 PM   #3454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeyandtheBandit View Post
Which midpipe is this? Sounds great.
From Alibaba , CSZ exhaust 3.5 inch single non resonator
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