[Geighty7]

How long do you all let your car “chill” after driving spiritedly? Is the myth still true about post turn off heat soaking?

[JG13]

I'm sure you're fine to shut the car off when you get to your destination. BMW engineers need to make these cars 'stupid proof'. If it was really bad to shut the car off right after some spirited driving we'd be hearing about all kinds of issues.

Lots of people do cool down laps at the track but the amount of times I have absolutely sent it on the last lap and then brought it right back into the paddock and shut the car off I can't even count. Enjoy it!!!!!!

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

How long do you all let your car “chill” after driving spiritedly? Is the myth still true about post turn off heat soaking?

That was mainly an issue with conventional oils and turbo engines where a hot turbo would coke the bearings and would need a turbo timer to idle the engine for a time after shutdown to alleviate this problem.

With synthetic oils and cooled turbo bearings with an auxiliary electric pump that can operate after the engine is switched off, there isn't a problem.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by JG13

I'm sure you're fine to shut the car off when you get to your destination. BMW engineers need to make these cars 'stupid proof'. If it was really bad to shut the car off right after some spirited driving we'd be hearing about all kinds of issues.

Lots of people do cool down laps at the track but the amount of times I have absolutely sent it on the last lap and then brought it right back into the paddock and shut the car off I can't even count. Enjoy it!!!!!!

That was my initial thought about these engines, but as I was reading up on turbos and all that jazz, I started to get concerned. I usually take a chill lap around the block anyways after spirited driving and then let idle for 1 min. I read it ‘levels out’ oil distribution…but I’m no mechanic nor do I know anything more than I read on here about the engine. I’m just a mediocre driver with a fun car

Originally Posted by aerobod

That was mainly an issue with conventional oils and turbo engines where a hot turbo would coke the bearings and would need a turbo timer to idle the engine for a time after shutdown to alleviate this problem.

With synthetic oils and cooled turbo bearings with an auxiliary electric pump that can operate after the engine is switched off, there isn't a problem.

Yeah I read up on that. That makes sense though for these newer engines.

[Bumpinjeep]

Listen, at Thermal Raceway for the BMW M Driver's Package, my G82C had 800 miles on the clock and we were doing race pace laps. Did a couple of cool down laps (mostly for the brakes since the carbon ceramics started to squeal fairly loudly and off to the paddock to turn the car off. It's fine. These cars are over-engineered.
Also, I never buy used M cars for this reason lol. Always and I mean always make sure the first owner was not a "Demo" car out of SC or CA.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by Bumpinjeep

Listen, at Thermal Raceway for the BMW M Driver's Package, my G82C had 800 miles on the clock and we were doing race pace laps. Did a couple of cool down laps (mostly for the brakes since the carbon ceramics started to squeal fairly loudly and off to the paddock to turn the car off. It's fine. These cars are over-engineered.
Also, I never buy used M cars for this reason lol. Always and I mean always make sure the first owner was not a "Demo" car out of SC or CA.

I’ve heard the same from many experienced performance car purchasers. This is my first performance car I’ve purchased so I made sure to spec it and make sure it is “all mine”.

I figured that any demo car has been driven hard early in its engine life at least a few times. And used is probably magnified to that point!

Speaking of M Drivers Package- currently waiting for my email so I can sign up and go. It’s comforting knowing BMW has put so much into these engines.

[JG13]

The only thing I have to worry about at the track is engaging the parking brake after getting the brakes super hot. Big no no as it will cook the pads into the rotors.

[Geighty7]

For anyone who’s curious, this is what my maintenance looked like. Curious what the “1200 mile svc for M” consists of compared to a non M? Maybe non M’s don’t require 1200? Not sure.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

How long do you all let your car “chill” after driving spiritedly? Is the myth still true about post turn off heat soaking?

The owners manual for my 996 Porsche Turbo called for 2 minutes of idle time after spirited use.

On my regular commute run I didn't engage in spirited driving.

On road trips when it was time to refuel I'd leave the freeway but almost every time by the time I got the gas station pump the engine had time to shed some heat load.

However, I'd use this time to check the oil level before shutting off the engine.

There is the concern about the hot turbo hardware "cooking" the oil (even synthetic oil) in the turbo bearings. With car engines that will circulate oil possibly even coolant to help remove heat load from the turbo this helps alleviate the concern about the heat load in the turbos.

However, the exhaust valves can only shed heat via low temperature running which is idle and the time they spend on their valve seats. Exhaust valves can run dull red hot when the engine is working.

So even with car engines with post shut down oil/coolant circulation I still either give the car a chance to cool down by easy driving the last mile or two to my destination or give the engine a minute or so of idle time prior to shut down.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

For anyone who’s curious, this is what my maintenance looked like. Curious what the “1200 mile svc for M” consists of compared to a non M? Maybe non M’s don’t require 1200? Not sure.

My M2 is my only BMW that has a run in service/break in service at 1200 miles.

But I had the M2 in for an early oil/filter service (on my dime) at 647 miles.

A multi-point inspection was done. (No charge for parts or labor.)

Oil/filter change done and I was charged $124.62 for for parts plus $50 for labor.

Tax added $16.59. Total cost was $191.21.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

The owners manual for my 996 Porsche Turbo called for 2 minutes of idle time after spirited use.

On my regular commute run I didn't engage in spirited driving.

On road trips when it was time to refuel I'd leave the freeway but almost every time by the time I got the gas station pump the engine had time to shed some heat load.

However, I'd use this time to check the oil level before shutting off the engine.

There is the concern about the hot turbo hardware "cooking" the oil (even synthetic oil) in the turbo bearings. With car engines that will circulate oil possibly even coolant to help remove heat load from the turbo this helps alleviate the concern about the heat load in the turbos.

However, the exhaust valves can only shed heat via low temperature running which is idle and the time they spend on their valve seats. Exhaust valves can run dull red hot when the engine is working.

So even with car engines with post shut down oil/coolant circulation I still either give the car a chance to cool down by easy driving the last mile or two to my destination or give the engine a minute or so of idle time prior to shut down.

Makes sense. I usually give it a minute or 2 at idle to shed some heat and level out the oil. I think even with new engines and synthetic oil it’s still a healthy habit, especially after a spirited drive.

[TheDrivenGarage]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

My M2 is my only BMW that has a run in service/break in service at 1200 miles.

But I had the M2 in for an early oil/filter service (on my dime) at 647 miles.

A multi-point inspection was done. (No charge for parts or labor.)

Oil/filter change done and I was charged $124.62 for for parts plus $50 for labor.

Tax added $16.59. Total cost was $191.21.

Interesting. I thought the oil from the factory wasn't the standard engine oil, but made for the break in process to help surfaces wear together. Which was the reason why they needed to get it out at 1200 miles as it wasn't as durable as standard oil. So wouldn't changing that oil early be bad? Or is this an urban myth too and the oil is the same?

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by TheDrivenGarage

Interesting. I thought the oil from the factory wasn't the standard engine oil, but made for the break in process to help surfaces wear together. Which was the reason why they needed to get it out at 1200 miles as it wasn't as durable as standard oil. So wouldn't changing that oil early be bad? Or is this an urban myth too and the oil is the same?

AFAIK BMW (and this goes for a number of other brands of cars/vehicles I've owned) does *not* use any special break in oil or even additive. The engines are filled with the factory fill oil and this is same oil the dealer uses when the car is in for an oil/filter service.

The engine experiences break in just fine. Even as is often (always now...) the case synthetic oil is used.

Years ago when I worked on my cars and even rebuilt 2 engines an early oil/filter service was SOP for newly rebuilt engines. And these were filled with regular oil -- the oil the engine was going to use for the rest of its service life -- and no break in additive was used. This is what my auto tech buddies told me to do and what I observed them doing when I assisted in their engine rebuilds.

The only special lube used was at least with aftermarket cams the cam maker included a can of special grease to apply to the cam lobes to give them extra protection at initial engine start. And when assembling the oil pump the gears were coated with Vasoline to help ensure prompt gear pump priming.

(Videos of engine assembly -- BMW, M-B, Porsche to name some of them -- show the tech using just a bit of oil at assembly time. Based on my experience not as much oil as I would use. But I believe the engines are spun -- cold and using an electric motor -- to among other things circulate the oil through the engine. When I rebuilt engines I used an electric drill motor and an adapter to spin the oil pump -- with the engine not turning -- to ensure the pump primed and then to continue to run the pump to fill all the oil galleys and bearings and until oil appeared at the valve hardware. (I did this with the valve covers off.) This insured that upon first start the critical parts of the engine would have oil from the get go.)

So for my new vehicles unless the owners manual forbids it I change the oil/filter early. Between ~500 to ~1000 miles. Then again at end of break in: 1200 or with some cars 2000 miles; then again at 5K miles.

For these early oil/filter services I do not have the service reminder reset. When that tells me the engine is due to be serviced I book the vehicle in for whatever service the reminder says is due which for my MINIs and BMWs has been primarily an oil/filter service.

[KCuv]

Getting that limp break-in tune really woke it up eh? Give it hell

[GT3M2]

First time you roll into it in 3rd gear in a chilly morning and do a rolling burnout your life is forever changed.

-GT3M2

[Squidget]

Originally Posted by GT3M2

First time you roll into it in 3rd gear in a chilly morning and do a rolling burnout your life is forever changed.

-GT3M2

I would never do that. That would be irresponsible.

Almost as irresponsible as flooring it all the way to redline in 4th gear on the highway. I would never do that either. Nope, not me, upstanding citizen.

In Mexico.

[1stM]

Originally Posted by TheDrivenGarage

Interesting. I thought the oil from the factory wasn't the standard engine oil, but made for the break in process to help surfaces wear together. Which was the reason why they needed to get it out at 1200 miles as it wasn't as durable as standard oil. So wouldn't changing that oil early be bad? Or is this an urban myth too and the oil is the same?

According to this service guy in the video (starting from 4:00), the oil is not the same as the standard oil.

[RockCrusher]

One tech claims the oil is special based on smell? A new engine stinks due to the amount of sealant used (which is replacing gaskets). These sealers are very pungent smelling. Just resealing a camshaft cover has the work area stinking to high heaven. But sealer applied to the camshaft cover(s), possibly intake manifold, oil pan/sump, front engine cover, the engine is going to smell to high heaven. And even though the sealer is applied by a machine which puts down just the right amount and in the right place still some sealant gets squeezed out into the engine. Sometimes one can see bits of this sealant in the oil drained from a new engine or bits in the oil filter canister oil or even caught in the filter element.

The BMW S58 engine training document does not have any warning regarding an early oil change.

There is nothing in any owners manual (or factory service manuals) I've had access to that cautions against an early oil/filter service. This for BMW, M-B, MINI, Dodge, Porsche, VW, GM (Chevy/Pontiac), Ford, and Datsun/Nissan. And I almost forgot motorcycles: Yamaha, Harley and Honda.

It has been my SOP for years to have the oil/filter service done early. This was what the professional techs told me to do. And what used to be the norm. Never had a service advisor or tech tell me the early oil change should not be done due to some special oil in the engine. Some service advisors balk at what they refer to a quick-y lube service because just the oil/filter service is not a high profit service but all have agreed to let it be done.

In all the years I've never had a tech tell me the new engine oil is special. In fact I had professional techs tell me the opposite that new engine oil is not special. Well, it does need to be up to the task of lubing the engine over its service life. But beyond that...

Too late for me but one with a new car/engine will its factory fill oil could obtain a sample of the factory fill oil at the 1st oil change and at the same time obtain a sample of the oil the engine will be filled with and have both of these samples analyzed. If the oils are different, have different additives, the analysis results will show that.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by 1stM

According to this service guy in the video (starting from 4:00), the oil is not the same as the standard oil.

i think this is a tech just expressing an opinion, not a fact from BMW documentation. There would need to be an oil analysis done to determine if it is different. Used oil will smell differently than fresh oil due to fuel absorbed and heat cycling. The statement of revs being limited during break-in is not backed up by any programming that is done on the car to remove any rev limiter, or the dynamic display of the rev limit shown, that we ourselves have not seen change before and after break-in service.

It is also strange that a dealer would add Ceratec to the oil when the owners manual clearly states "Do not use oil additives. Oil additives can damage the engine".

None of the non-M vehicles have a break-in oil service (such as for all B58 engines). In some markets the first oil change isn't until 2 years from vehicle delivery.

[tommycr]

I’ve been slow with how I progressed the car to shifting close to red line…. Pre break-in period allowed me to get used to the car and I just slowly started shifting her higher and high as my miles built up.

Was at a gas station two days ago and the attendant was swooning over th car and asked if I could let her rip when I pulled out. First time I hit the limiter for a sec or two before shifting to 2nd but I have 1600 miles on her and feel safe doing it.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Too late for me but one with a new car/engine will its factory fill oil could obtain a sample of the factory fill oil at the 1st oil change and at the same time obtain a sample of the oil the engine will be filled with and have both of these samples analyzed. If the oils are different, have different additives, the analysis results will show that...

Excellent idea & I wish one of you guys could bottle a few drops of the RIS oil to see if it's truly any different (like many of us are thinking). Who knows, maybe it's a complete myth.

And those that are adding te Ceratech additives to your oil mix so early on in the engines life, why in the world would that be a good idea at this early stage... ? That part I really REALLY don't get. Fear based marketing is a curse.

Last but not lease, a great rule of them is to keep is simple with the S58. Just because it's a stout engine & almost bullet proof doesn't mean to ignore common sense knowledge. Never drive a high performance motor hard & shut it off right away. The coolant will re-circulate with the engine off but not the oil. So... don't drive it hard & put it away wet.

[DarkNight707]

Now that you ask… the only difference was the blinker sound. It was extremely loud after the break-in service. They must have change the blinker fluid… not using it ever again!