[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by P_Chris

Try this. Around 6:20 mark

Great find - thanks!

I just tried it and it worked...maybe?? I got the "Successful" message, but the oil life still read 9,000, same as before. However, the date showed 09/2023, but I'm not sure what the date showed previously? I'm assuming it said 07/2023 since that's the month the car was first started.

I'm almost positive at one point not long ago I saw 10,000 miles as the oil life, so that makes me question the true "Successful" message??

[donm527]

Was wondering what oil the dealers are required to use on oil changes? Full synth or blend?

I have done all my oil changes on all my vehicles from Mustangs and Z06 and Kawasaki ZX-7 to Honda Odyssey and always user Mobil1 Full synthetic.

I would use the factory oil until at least the recommended first change interval because it's usually not full synthetic cause in past you don't want to break in a new engine with full synthetic. But if they regularly use a blend then I definitely won't be taking in my car for oil changes. Over 30 years of using Mobil1 and my current daily with over 320k in 11 years.

When I was into bikes, they would say drain and change at 500 and/or 1k because that's when you have the most metal in the oil because parts are mating. Maybe overkill but I love working under the hood anyways and 5 qt jugs of Walmart and filter is cheap insurance.

Do manufacturers even use "break-in oil" in their engine oil?

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

Ahh, makes sense. However, I doubt I'll ever take advantage of the free oil changes.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by donm527

Was wondering what oil the dealers are required to use on oil changes? Full synth or blend?

I have done all my oil changes on all my vehicles from Mustangs and Z06 and Kawasaki ZX-7 to Honda Odyssey and always user Mobil1 Full synthetic.

I would use the factory oil until at least the recommended first change interval because it's usually not full synthetic cause in past you don't want to break in a new engine with full synthetic. But if they regularly use a blend then I definitely won't be taking in my car for oil changes. Over 30 years of using Mobil1 and my current daily with over 320k in 11 years.

When I was into bikes, they would say drain and change at 500 and/or 1k because that's when you have the most metal in the oil because parts are mating. Maybe overkill but I love working under the hood anyways and 5 qt jugs of Walmart and filter is cheap insurance.

Do manufacturers even use "break-in oil" in their engine oil?

You can go to different oil websites and see the brands of cars that use their oil for the factory fill. I also think the days of "break-in" oil are behind us.

Mobil 1 treated me great in the SS 1LE. Shell Rotella was great in the STi. And now I use Castrol Edge 5w30 Euro Formula for the 240. I'm a firm believer you can use the cheapest no-name brand oil in any modern car and as long as you change your oil every 5-8k miles (synthetic) you'll be fine - I just don't want to do it. LOL

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by donm527

Was wondering what oil the dealers are required to use on oil changes? Full synth or blend?

I have done all my oil changes on all my vehicles from Mustangs and Z06 and Kawasaki ZX-7 to Honda Odyssey and always user Mobil1 Full synthetic.

I would use the factory oil until at least the recommended first change interval because it's usually not full synthetic cause in past you don't want to break in a new engine with full synthetic. But if they regularly use a blend then I definitely won't be taking in my car for oil changes. Over 30 years of using Mobil1 and my current daily with over 320k in 11 years.

When I was into bikes, they would say drain and change at 500 and/or 1k because that's when you have the most metal in the oil because parts are mating. Maybe overkill but I love working under the hood anyways and 5 qt jugs of Walmart and filter is cheap insurance.

Do manufacturers even use "break-in oil" in their engine oil?

My experience with various brands of cars is the dealers use whatever oil is factory fill.

Believe for my 1996 Mustang GT Ford still used a mineral based oil, in a Motorcraft labeled bottle. This is the oil I bought at the dealer to use when I did my own oil changes. Put over 150K miles on that car/engine and the engine was just fine. The downside is I think oil changes were required every 3K or 4K miles.

But when I bought a new 2001 Camaro Z28 Chevy dealers used Mobil 1 0w-40 synthetic oil.

In the case of my Porsche cars, starting with my 2002 Boxster, it was Mobil 1 0w-40. My 2002 Golf used the same oil. And ditto my 2006 Pontiac GTO.

For my MINI it was a BMW long life oil, 0w-20 I think. For my Challengers Dodge dealers used Pennzoil 0w-40.


For my BMW 230i the dealer uses this oil:

https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...215a42d32.html

My info is break in oil, at least in car engines, hasn't been used for years. I haven't been involved with motorcycles in decades. (My 1974 H-D Sportster came filled with H-D oil. I don't recall who made/packaged the oil for H-D.

It is perfectly fine to break in an engine with synthetic oil. The myth synthetic oil is too "slick" is really just a myth.

When I rebuilt a couple of engines -- way back in the early 1970s -- I did as my auto tech buddies advised and filled the rebuilt engine with the same oil I intended to use after "break in". And I picked an oil the factory recommended.

For the cam and lifters I did use a special grease supplied by the cam maker to give the cam lobes/lifters a bit of extra protection at first start.

This grease only lasted for a short time until oil flow flushed it away. It of course did end up dissolved in the oil but I believe its benefit was only required at and shortly after 1st start.

[LivingInSalt]

Dealerships will use full synthetic

[MPR]

+1 for Mobil1. I used nothing but M1 0w20 + OEM oil filters since day 1 on my Subaru BRZ. From 6 miles to still running strong at 192k after 9.5 years. Started with doing 3k mile intervals but eventually switched to 5k-7k .

Still trying to plan for my 240 oil change plan, likely will continue to do them myself, debating between 0w20 and 0w30.. likely will use OEM filters. Does Mobil 1 meet B58 specs?

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by MPR

+1 for Mobil1. I used nothing but M1 0w20 + OEM oil filters since day 1 on my Subaru BRZ. From 6 miles to still running strong at 192k after 9.5 years. Started with doing 3k mile intervals but eventually switched to 5k-7k .

Still trying to plan for my 240 oil change plan, likely will continue to do them myself, debating between 0w20 and 0w30.. likely will use OEM filters. Does Mobil 1 meet B58 specs?

Put a lot of miles on various cars with the engine filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. (Later I switched to Mobil 1 5w-50 oil which was approved by the factory as long as temperatures stayed above -25C (-17F). Where I lived in northern CA these temperatures just didn't happen.)

And by lots of miles I'm talking close to 750K miles in total.

Mobil 1 proved to be a good oil. Never had any issues even remotely related to oil.

But when I decided to switch from Porsche cars and I bought my 1st Dodge Challenger Scat Pack I was quite on board with what the factory called for: Pennzoil 0w-40. Then with my MINI JCW the dealer used some BMW branded oil. (Probably the same oil BMW uses in my 230i.)

Pennzoil 0w-40 was also the oil used in my Hellcat and my 2nd Scat Pack.

The M-B Metris van gets I think Mobil 0w-40.

For my BMW 230i the dealer uses this oil:

https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...215a42d32.html

My point is while I have had good experience with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil I use what the factory calls for. Brand of oil and the viscosity. If 0w-20 is called for that's what I use.

It is kind of funny how often a new owner of a car will chose to use a different oil than what the factory calls for it seems for no other reason than the oil he wants to use is the oil that the factory called for using in another car's engine.

Call me old fashioned but I think the best authority, really the only authority, on what oil to use is the factory.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Put a lot of miles on various cars with the engine filled with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil. (Later I switched to Mobil 1 5w-50 oil which was approved by the factory as long as temperatures stayed above -25C (-17F). Where I lived in northern CA these temperatures just didn't happen.)

And by lots of miles I'm talking close to 750K miles in total.

Mobil 1 proved to be a good oil. Never had any issues even remotely related to oil.

But when I decided to switch from Porsche cars and I bought my 1st Dodge Challenger Scat Pack I was quite on board with what the factory called for: Pennzoil 0w-40. Then with my MINI JCW the dealer used some BMW branded oil. (Probably the same oil BMW uses in my 230i.)

Pennzoil 0w-40 was also the oil used in my Hellcat and my 2nd Scat Pack.

The M-B Metris van gets I think Mobil 0w-40.

For my BMW 230i the dealer uses this oil:

https://www.bmwpartsdeal.com/parts/b...215a42d32.html

My point is while I have had good experience with Mobil 1 0w-40 oil I use what the factory calls for. Brand of oil and the viscosity. If 0w-20 is called for that's what I use.

It is kind of funny how often a new owner of a car will chose to use a different oil than what the factory calls for it seems for no other reason than the oil he wants to use is the oil that the factory called for using in another car's engine.

Call me old fashioned but I think the best authority, really the only authority, on what oil to use is the factory.

You do know the factory oil is paid market placement, and NOT what the manufacturer thinks is the only oil (brand/viscosity) suitable for their motor? Although it probably won't be hard to find service advisors that would disagree with me.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

You do know the factory oil is paid market placement, and NOT what the manufacturer thinks is the only oil (brand/viscosity) suitable for their motor? Although it probably won't be hard to find service advisors that would disagree with me.

While I agree, money in people's pockets may be a factor in the recommended viscosity, I wouldn't assume 5w30, or whatever viscosity you decide to use, is ok because of this. I'd sleep better at night knowing I am using the viscosity that is suggested on paper for the engine.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by MPR

While I agree, money in people's pockets may be a factor in the recommended viscosity, I wouldn't assume 5w30, or whatever viscosity you decide to use, is ok because of this. I'd sleep better at night knowing I am using the viscosity that is suggested on paper for the engine.

0w20 is prioritized for gas economy first and protection second. Obviously, the protection 0w20 provides in high-heat turbo protection is "good enough", but it's more about pleasing Congress (CAFE). 🖕🏻Congress

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

0w20 is prioritized for gas economy first and protection second. Obviously, the protection 0w20 provides in high-heat turbo protection is "good enough", but it's more about pleasing Congress (CAFE). 🖕🏻Congress

Protection is first and foremost. There are plenty of other car engines for which the factory still recommends a higher viscosity of oil, 5w-30, 0w-40, 5w-40.

If it were just a matter of spec'ing 0w-20 for the gas economy first and adequate lubrication being left to chance all car makers would be spec'ing 0w-20.

If the oiling was inadequate BMW couldn't be sure the engine would last outside of warranty. So what attaboys from Kerry and Gretta BMW might get it would suffer from a considerable elevation in warranty claims.

Worse word would get out the engines are junk. They aren't but the use of 0w-20 with adequate lubrication taking a hind seat would make it seem so.

And EPA and CARB routinely test "used" vehicles to ensure that even though they may be used they are still in compliance. I got a letter from CARB wanting to "borrow" my Hellcat to emissions test. While I'm sure it would have passed -- the engine was stock -- I declined for various reasons.

If oiling was sub par a good number of engines in used cars even if they were still road worthy would be emitting hydrocarbons like a Chinese coal fired power station.

And there have been changes I'm sure to engine design to lower the oiling budget.

As comfortable as I was with previous car engines "requiring" 0w-40 I'm just as comfortable with my 230i engine requiring 0w-20.

[danallxt]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

0w20 is prioritized for gas economy first and protection second. Obviously, the protection 0w20 provides in high-heat turbo protection is "good enough", but it's more about pleasing Congress (CAFE). 🖕🏻Congress

What is interesting is that the BMW manual (US version) specs for the 2022 BMW M240 , lists ONLY 0-20 viscosity as acceptable in the LE-14/17 FE specs. On the other hand the identical 2022 M240 BMW UK manual lists 0-20 AND 0-30 viscosity as acceptable. Must be just the difference in time zones??

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by danallxt

What is interesting is that the BMW manual (US version) specs for the 2022 BMW M240 , lists ONLY 0-20 viscosity as acceptable in the LE-14/17 FE specs. On the other hand the identical 2022 M240 BMW UK manual lists 0-20 AND 0-30 viscosity as acceptable. Must be just the difference in time zones??

I've been curious what other countries owner's manual's say. It's common to see manufacturers use 0w20 in the U.S. and 30 everywhere else.

[hooked]

My 3rd BMW in a row. The first 2 were leases. Didn't change the oil until the minder came on every 10K miles or 1 year. Cost me $0 extra to maintain both and turned them in when the leases were up. My thinking was; their car, their call.

Fast forward to today and I ended up buying the M240i, mostly because the lease rates were terrible and the cost to own was not that much more. So I read a LOT of opinions on this topic and decided to change the oil at 1,200. Used a "value service oil change" coupon at the BMW dealer and paid $99 for an OEM oil/filter change. My reasoning was that I might keep this car 5+ years, it's included in the full M car maintainance schedule, Mike Miller recommends it based on it being recommended prior to BMW changing to included scheduled maintainance for 3 years/36K miles. This last point (I'm guessing) is to align their lease programs so customers know their monthly payment and don't have to worry about extra costs and can simply keep turning their leases over every 3 years. So if you plan to keep it a longer time, this might be the most important "extra" oil change to make IMHO.

[MPR]

Going to do my first at 2000 and then every 5000 going forward.

It sucks that if you do DIY oil changes, it doesn't show up as maintenance performed on a Carfax for future resale fuzzies. I'll probably just keep receipts for OEM oil filters as evidence of maintenance.

I too bought and will keep it for 6-7 years most likely, hoping the B58 lives up to it's reliability reputation.

[ryo-]

Originally Posted by hooked

My 3rd BMW in a row. The first 2 were leases. Didn't change the oil until the minder came on every 10K miles or 1 year. Cost me $0 extra to maintain both and turned them in when the leases were up. My thinking was; their car, their call.

Fast forward to today and I ended up buying the M240i, mostly because the lease rates were terrible and the cost to own was not that much more. So I read a LOT of opinions on this topic and decided to change the oil at 1,200. Used a "value service oil change" coupon at the BMW dealer and paid $99 for an OEM oil/filter change. My reasoning was that I might keep this car 5+ years, it's included in the full M car maintainance schedule, Mike Miller recommends it based on it being recommended prior to BMW changing to included scheduled maintainance for 3 years/36K miles. This last point (I'm guessing) is to align their lease programs so customers know their monthly payment and don't have to worry about extra costs and can simply keep turning their leases over every 3 years. So if you plan to keep it a longer time, this might be the most important "extra" oil change to make IMHO.

where did you find the value oil change? $100? that's nothing for peace of mind

[MPR]

Yeah, for me the only piece of mind is by DIY. You never know what mood the 9-5er is in when working on your car.

[ryo-]

Originally Posted by MPR

Yeah, for me the only piece of mind is by DIY. You never know what mood the 9-5er is in when working on your car.

tbh, going to the dealer for an oil change is WAY different than jiffy lube. at least there will be a paper trail IMO.

[enome]

Originally Posted by ryo-

where did you find the value oil change? $100? that's nothing for peace of mind

i did some digging and it seems like it is very dealership dependent

some dealers are participating in BMW Value Service program and some dont; and it seems like only 1 dealer near me is doing it (not my home dealer)

I think I would do it to save myself the trouble for future me

[MPR]

Originally Posted by ryo-

tbh, going to the dealer for an oil change is WAY different than jiffy lube. at least there will be a paper trail IMO.

Yeah, but what if they don't even do it, or do something that doesn't reveal itself for a while later. No way to prove it. This is why I've maintained by Subaru BRZ since day 1, and still running strong from 8 miles to 192,000 miles.

Yeah, maybe BMW treats their techs well and it's not a concern, but I just don't trust people in general.

[ryo-]

Originally Posted by MPR

Yeah, but what if they don't even do it, or do something that doesn't reveal itself for a while later. No way to prove it. This is why I've maintained by Subaru BRZ since day 1, and still running strong from 8 miles to 192,000 miles.

Yeah, maybe BMW treats their techs well and it's not a concern, but I just don't trust people in general.

I've always done my maintenance myself as well; however, this is my first "expensive" car and since the first 3 years are covered, I want to have no argument against coverage if anything goes wrong. I would definitely say that if you take your BMW to a BMW dealership for an oil change, they will do it. jiffy lube? maybe a different story. I will never take my car (no matter the price) to a quick oil change place. I also have a hard time trusting people in general due to my occupation, but I don't have any issues for a paid service at a reputable company. it might also help that I have a great BMW dealership near me and know most people that work there (probably should have stated that first lol).

[hooked]

Originally Posted by ryo-

where did you find the value oil change? $100?

To the best of my understanding it is national program sponsored by BMW USA to make dealers more competitive with local shops on routine services like oil changes. Note that it is up to the dealer if they participate or not and what models qualify. I assume most do as its not a good look to NOT participate in a national campaign sponsored by the brand to help save customers money.

Go to your dealers website and click "Service" then "BMW Service Specials." Or go to "Service and Parts" then "BMW Value Service." Some will show the prices right there. Others will have a message to contact them for pricing. My dealer had it listed but not the price. When I checked in I asked for the $99 value service oil change and he told me I didn't need one (which I knew of course) but I insisted that it be done and I knew that the cost was "on me." He asked if my car was an M car and I said it is NOT a full M car like the M2 and if it was BMW would be paying for this oil change. That was it. $99.95+tax came to a little over a hundred bucks. Happy I did it!