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BMW 2 Series Technical Topics (G42) Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in | Oil & Fluids | Servicing | TSB | Recalls

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      01-25-2023, 05:31 AM   #45
Rdurty2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caerus View Post
Thanks for the information. Enclosed is an underside picture of the G42 M240ix. If you zoom in to the front area, it does not match the car in the sketch that was provided. It appears to be two different cars. In the sketch, what year M240i is this? Thanks.
You can’t go by the sketches in the bmw docs. They oftentimes will show the 230 or even previous gen sketches even though you are searching for g42 m240.
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      01-25-2023, 11:38 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdurty2 View Post
You can’t go by the sketches in the bmw docs. They oftentimes will show the 230 or even previous gen sketches even though you are searching for g42 m240.
I don't think this is the case. When showing some thing important like specific jacking points on a car, they better be accurate. I suspect this sketch was from a f87 car, hence M240i not M240ix. I think if one looks for the G42 M240ix, it is available and a correct sketch would be there.

Last edited by Caerus; 01-25-2023 at 12:07 PM..
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      01-25-2023, 02:47 PM   #47
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This is my system for driving up on ramps - I put the ramps on the driveway, which is a little lower than the garage floor, and simply drive up. Just enough room to scoot underneath from the front to access the drain plug.
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      01-25-2023, 05:10 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caerus View Post
Thanks for the information. Enclosed is a underside picture of the G42 M240ix. If you zoom in to the front area, it does not match the car in the sketch that was provided. It appears to be two different cars. In the sketch, what year M240i is this? Thanks.


Just looked under my car doesn’t match the sketch either lol
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      01-25-2023, 06:09 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caerus View Post
I don't think this is the case. When showing some thing important like specific jacking points on a car, they better be accurate. I suspect this sketch was from a f87 car, hence M240i not M240ix. I think if one looks for the G42 M240ix, it is available and a correct sketch would be there.
You can clearly see at the top of the screenshots he is viewing documents for a g42

It is the case though. When viewing the documents for emblem placement for the g42 one doc shows an f30 trunk lid and taillights while another doc shows a g42

Then I also came across another case of it showing 230i sketches within a m240 document for exhaust pieces.

This is just a few cases. I bet if I spent hours combing through every document that shows up in the g42 section I can find a lot more errors.
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      01-26-2023, 11:25 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caerus View Post
Thanks for the information. Enclosed is a underside picture of the G42 M240ix. If you zoom in to the front area, it does not match the car in the sketch that was provided. It appears to be two different cars. In the sketch, what year M240i is this? Thanks.

My guess is the front jack point is where these dimples are. But I'm no expert

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      01-27-2023, 12:56 PM   #51
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Just did my second oil change, now at 7,500 miles.

Using the ramps, instead of jacks, made this one of the easiest oil changes I’ve done on any car!

Couple of quick notes for virgins:

- 6.75 qts and then top-off after first short drive and checking level
- 25 NM is torque for filter and plug
- 32 mm socket for filter
- 11/16 (or 17mm) socket for plug
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      01-27-2023, 01:50 PM   #52
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Resetting oil life maintenance computer found on another BMW forum…
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      01-27-2023, 01:54 PM   #53
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Thanks for posting that.

My plan is to not reset for my in-between oil changes (5000,15000,25000) and once I begin doing them every 5k starting at 30k, I'm going to reset the clock for each.
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      01-27-2023, 08:51 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d3sign3r View Post
My guess is the front jack point is where these dimples are. But I'm no expert.
Yep, that is the spot.
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      01-28-2023, 06:09 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XC3LLR8 View Post
Just did my second oil change, now at 7,500 miles.

Using the ramps, instead of jacks, made this one of the easiest oil changes I’ve done on any car!

Couple of quick notes for virgins:

- 6.75 qts and then top-off after first short drive and checking level
- 25 NM is torque for filter and plug
- 32 mm socket for filter
- 11/16 socket for plug
Why would you use an 11/16 socket for the drain plug? It should be a 17mm socket. 11/16 ends up being almost 17.6mm so small chance of rounding the plug a bit if not careful. Nothing on the car uses imperial.
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      01-28-2023, 11:58 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdurty2 View Post
Why would you use an 11/16 socket for the drain plug? It should be a 17mm socket. 11/16 ends up being almost 17.6mm so small chance of rounding the plug a bit if not careful. Nothing on the car uses imperial.
You’re not going to round the head at 25-NM.

But to answer your question, my socket set skips 17mm and 18mm.
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      01-28-2023, 04:49 PM   #57
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Regardless it’s always good to use the correct tools for the job. Just buy a 17mm on its own. You will always come across other uses for it.
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      01-28-2023, 06:02 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rdurty2 View Post
Regardless it’s always good to use the correct tools for the job. Just buy a 17mm on its own. You will always come across other uses for it.
Appreciate the advice. Wrenching on cars for nearly 4 decades and I guess I just got lucky with 11/16 always working on a 17 for light-duty jobs. I’ll get the 17 ordered and find a spot next to my multiple 17 impact sockets.
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      04-05-2023, 08:59 PM   #59
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Has anyone jacked the car up using what is believed to be the correct front jacking point noted above in pics posted by d3sign3r? I'm planning to ceramic coat the car soon and am planning to also do the wheels and calipers. If yes, does a hockey puck work as a pad?
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      04-06-2023, 06:18 PM   #60
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I was absolutely going to try to lift from that indicated area as it seems like it should a safe location to jack from… BUT: my jack won’t fit far enough under the car. It’s too high and comes in contact with what seems to be a metal skid plate. I believe 2 other forum members have lifted from that area with success.

I am going to be doing my first oil change tomorrow, but decided to jack the car up from each side and use my old Rhino Ramps just this time.

On another note: I bought the QuickJack 5000TL and just returned them today Didn’t notice the jack points are so far apart. Definitely going to invest in QuickJack 6000ELX once I find a sale.. damn they cost much more than the 5000’s…
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      04-07-2023, 10:49 PM   #61
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Anyone reset the oil status on iDrive 8?? Can’t figure out how to do it. Pressed and held the BC (followed Kies video on youtube) but there’s no option to reset oil…
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      04-21-2023, 08:25 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d3sign3r View Post
My guess is the front jack point is where these dimples are. But I'm no expert

Attachment 3088250
A bit late of a response but that is *probably* not a valid lift point.

Modern cars combine lift points with suitable areas to secure the vehicle when on a ship. One can't just assume any old flat spot -- dimpled or not -- is a good lift point.

Just checked my M2 owners manual and it only shows the lift points being close to the 4 wheel wells. There is no lift point in the center of the front or back of the car.
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      04-24-2023, 12:12 PM   #63
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Is anyone out there using the free 3 dealer provided oil changes? I'm approaching 10K miles and unsure if I should stick to DIY or take advantage of the dealer provided changes.
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      04-24-2023, 12:33 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPR View Post
Is anyone out there using the free 3 dealer provided oil changes? I'm approaching 10K miles and unsure if I should stick to DIY or take advantage of the dealer provided changes.
I think we’re in a similar boat. Just did my DIY change @ 2k miles. I’m considering a 6k interval meaning I’ll be “due” around 8k. Contemplating if I should continue to DIY or have the dealer change it early (before 10k)

At first I was 100% set on DIY because who knows who is actually changing your oil… Could be a 9-5er getting paid minimum wage who does not give a shit about your car and only cares about moving cars as fast as possible.

I am only now considering it again to see if the dealer can reset the oil life on the computer. I can’t figure out how to do it myself on iDrive 8, it’s different than iD7. Aside from this, I would probably just DIY it, considering I have the capability to do it in my garage and I know it’s getting done properly with care (fluid amount, torque spec, etc)
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      04-24-2023, 12:53 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPR View Post
Is anyone out there using the free 3 dealer provided oil changes? I'm approaching 10K miles and unsure if I should stick to DIY or take advantage of the dealer provided changes.
I do my own oil changes as well specially when it's not complimentary.

However, my local BMW dealer is a perennial Center of Excellence Award Winner and has done good by me since my F30. So I will be taking advantage of the complimentary maintenance once due.

2023 Center of Excellence Award Winners
https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/usa/a...language=en_US

2022 Center of Excellence Award Winners
https://www.press.bmwgroup.com/usa/a...language=en_US
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      04-24-2023, 01:04 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPR View Post
Is anyone out there using the free 3 dealer provided oil changes? I'm approaching 10K miles and unsure if I should stick to DIY or take advantage of the dealer provided changes.
That's a personal decision you're gonna have to make. If you want to use something other than the 0-20 BMW oil spec, then you are gonna have to do it yourself. One plus of doing the oil change yourself is it will take far less time, but then of course you are paying for the oil/filter yourself, your call. If time is no concern, and you wish to stick with the BMW spec oil i see no reason not to have the dealer do it...assuming you trust the quality of work, but then how difficult is that task?
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