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      12-19-2023, 10:02 AM   #45
Charley135
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Even if the car have 50% of track use, that means just 1500 miles which is not that bad, especially when you plan on driving the car hard .
But like you, i find the body dammage unacceptable. I would focus on that matter with the dealer
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      12-19-2023, 10:37 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley135 View Post
Even if the car have 50% of track use, that means just 1500 miles which is not that bad, especially when you plan on driving the car hard .
But like you, i find the body dammage unacceptable. I would focus on that matter with the dealer

I would be more concerned with drivetrain damage over body/cosmetic..
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      12-19-2023, 10:46 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by 335 View Post
I spoke with the owner of the dealership today and received a small reimbursement and the second fob has been retrieved from the previous owner. I have decided to spec a new M2 at my dealer tomorrow and drive this one until it arrives, then trade this car in on the new one.

Thanks for all your help and insight.
Good choice. Been keeping up to date with this thread but not chiming in as there seemed to be only 2 options, and you picked the better of the 2 lol.

Better piece of mind and long term happiness. If you’re going to drop this much money, at least be happy and not stressed. Plus you can opt in for a 2025 come August or September as I have heard they will have more color options.

Sucks that it happened but we’ve all been there so nothing to feel bad about. Typical impulsive car enthusiast mistake that I’ve made a ton of times! Good thing you have a plan now.
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      12-19-2023, 10:56 AM   #48
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Based on what you described, I would imagine this was the previous "owner." Glad you got it sorted out and getting a fresh car soon. Pretty exciting.
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      12-19-2023, 11:31 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by 335 View Post
I spoke with the owner of the dealership today and received a small reimbursement and the second fob has been retrieved from the previous owner. I have decided to spec a new M2 at my dealer tomorrow and drive this one until it arrives, then trade this car in on the new one.

Thanks for all your help and insight.
We’d all appreciate a heads up when this one comes up for sale again
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      12-19-2023, 12:32 PM   #50
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Good call OP! I do agree with one of the other posters where you may want to consider hanging onto this one until the 2025 is available to order that’s probably just about six months from now and you can try and be the owner of one of the first ones in the states! I would only do that if you can get a commitment from the dealer but they’ll put you number one on the list at cost
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      12-19-2023, 06:35 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charley135 View Post
Even if the car have 50% of track use, that means just 1500 miles which is not that bad, especially when you plan on driving the car hard .
But like you, i find the body dammage unacceptable. I would focus on that matter with the dealer
I definitely find the body damage unacceptable, but like Rob said below, the signs of extremely hard driving concern me more. I can't conceive of a way that break-in was adhered to in a car with an 11.7mpg lifetime average at 2800 miles. It could have been properly and enthusiastically enjoyed on track days, or it could have had the piss thrashed out of it (and potentially on a cold engine). Just no way to know. And since I'm planning on tuning the car and voiding warranty, I just can't deal with the uncertainty. It'd drive me crazy.

I thought about going after the dealer with an attorney, but I'm too old for this shit. Don't have the time or energy to fight. I'd invest the money to fix the body if the car didn't show signs of being driven so hard. But looking at situation in totality, I think it's best just to accept the modest compensation offered and move on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Power Rob View Post
I would be more concerned with drivetrain damage over body/cosmetic..

Quote:
Originally Posted by ourlee View Post
We’d all appreciate a heads up when this one comes up for sale again
Will do; that's the least I can do. Stay away from any track pack black manual cars in PA for the near future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geighty7 View Post
Good choice. Been keeping up to date with this thread but not chiming in as there seemed to be only 2 options, and you picked the better of the 2 lol.

Better piece of mind and long term happiness. If you’re going to drop this much money, at least be happy and not stressed. Plus you can opt in for a 2025 come August or September as I have heard they will have more color options.

Sucks that it happened but we’ve all been there so nothing to feel bad about. Typical impulsive car enthusiast mistake that I’ve made a ton of times! Good thing you have a plan now.
Thanks for the kind words!

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Originally Posted by FrankWhite! View Post
Good call OP! I do agree with one of the other posters where you may want to consider hanging onto this one until the 2025 is available to order that’s probably just about six months from now and you can try and be the owner of one of the first ones in the states! I would only do that if you can get a commitment from the dealer but they’ll put you number one on the list at cost
After seeing this mentioned a couple times, I looked into the 25 MY changes. The bump in power won't affect me because I'm doing downpipes / Femto unlock / E85. Color options don't do much for me either. But I've read there might be cosmetic changes to the exterior. Can anyone confirm? Will this be LCI update already or just the power bump and frozen color options?

Also, I found out today the carbon buckets can't be ordered for the indefinite future. And the seats were the whole reason I ended up with this mess of a car in the first place. So it might be worth waiting for a '25 car and hope the seats return as an option by then.

To cap things off, I found another flaw today. Nice dent in the rear fender. And also discovered the rear tires are not the OEM Michelins with star markings. Car has standard PS4S on the rear. So I'm thinking this car was definitely a drift car or used at a driving school like someone mentioned above.
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      12-19-2023, 06:46 PM   #52
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When your new car comes have the dealer swap the seats for you. Keep the carbon buckets if that’s what you want. Problem solved!
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      12-19-2023, 07:48 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by FrankWhite! View Post
When your new car comes have the dealer swap the seats for you. Keep the carbon buckets if that’s what you want. Problem solved!
Thanks, I'm trying! Found a dealer 20 miles away with no one in line. Next allocation is mine. They didn't want to swap the seats. Weren't sure if the swap would cause problems. I found documentation that it's doable. Going to try to persuade them tomorrow.

If that doesn't work, my I have rapport with my local dealer and can probably make it happen. Downside is they have 6 people in line for cars ahead of me. Meeting with them tomorrow to discuss.

I suppose it will be a moot point if I decide to wait for '25 MY.

This really snowballed into a clusterf*ck.
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      12-19-2023, 07:56 PM   #54
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It’s your car so if you want to swap the seats than do it. Now, if you swap the seats and then they don’t want the car used car than that’s a different issue.
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      12-19-2023, 08:15 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by FrankWhite! View Post
It’s your car so if you want to swap the seats than do it. Now, if you swap the seats and then they don’t want the car used car than that’s a different issue.
The dealer doesn't want to take my car as a trade if I swap the buckets for standard seats. Reasons given were 1) they weren't sure if it would work and 2) car spec won't match the window sticker / VIN build specs. I paid cash for this car and paid the taxes on it, so I definitely need to trade so I'm not paying 6% sales tax twice.

I agree that swapping the seats is the way to go. I'll make it work somehow.
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      12-19-2023, 09:32 PM   #56
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I gotta ask, how much of a discount did you get over MSRP for this thing? In it's condition, it looks like a multi millionaire beat on it for a couple weekends like a honda civic. I'm not sure you're going to get what you expect when its time to trade it in for the brand new MY25..

If it's still possible, I think you need to heavily push for a return to the dealer. If it was misrepresented, tracked, not broken in correctly etc etc these are all grounds for returning of the vehicle. If it's a genuine headache for you (seems like it is) contact a lawyer asap and get this done.
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      12-21-2023, 08:23 AM   #57
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Did you buy it from a BMW dealership?

I have driven the M3 and M4 at the BMW experience in Thermal that get beat up. Even with hot laps by the instructors the cars are clean on the outside and inside.
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      12-21-2023, 11:01 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M_Power Rob View Post
OP may be better off taking action against the dealership that sold the car for hiding/not disclosing material (defects?) details. One would have to review the contract with a fine toothed comb (would be best if OP had a fried who has good litigation skills/qualifications)...
If the dealership allowed OP to view the car and have it inspected by a third party then it will be hard to prove the dealer hid material defects. A dealership is not required to disclose small cosmetic blemishes that are expected to be there in a used car. The law is different in every state, but I feel like a lawsuit would be a waste of time here. OP could have noticed these things before he purchased the car.
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      12-21-2023, 11:03 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Daily Downshift View Post
I gotta ask, how much of a discount did you get over MSRP for this thing? In it's condition, it looks like a multi millionaire beat on it for a couple weekends like a honda civic. I'm not sure you're going to get what you expect when its time to trade it in for the brand new MY25..

If it's still possible, I think you need to heavily push for a return to the dealer. If it was misrepresented, tracked, not broken in correctly etc etc these are all grounds for returning of the vehicle. If it's a genuine headache for you (seems like it is) contact a lawyer asap and get this done.
I don't have any real expectations for trade-in. I know I'll lose some money. I just found an identical car (brand new '24) without the carbon buckets for sale in NY. Going in on Saturday to see about negotiating a trade. I bought this car for $3k < MSRP. I might not make out too bad. Carbon buckets can no longer be ordered and are a hot commodity. And a $500 paint correction will eliminate 90% of the blemishes.

The dealer has refunded me for some of the cosmetic flaws. As far as the signs the car was tracked, I don't think 99% of buyers would notice and the car drives great. I just don't trust it since I'm voiding warranty.

I could easily pay a lawyer to go after this guy, but given the car was explicitly sold "AS IS," it's on me for not specifically asking if the car was tracked prior to making the transaction.

If I was a decade younger, I'd pay a lawyer to make this guy's life miserable for a few months even if I knew I'd lose. The expense would be worth the satisfaction. At this point in my life (about to turn 40), I've learned to pick my battles. Best thing for me is to move on and forget about it and keep my blood pressure down.

I think I'm going to buy the new car and throw these seats in. Not quite as cool as the OEM buckets, but not far off. And as a bonus, they don't come with a codpiece.

I guess it comes down to how one values money versus stress, and I suppose I'm fortunate to be at a point where I can write off the money to save the stress.
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      12-21-2023, 11:20 PM   #60
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Did you buy it from a BMW dealership?

I have driven the M3 and M4 at the BMW experience in Thermal that get beat up. Even with hot laps by the instructors the cars are clean on the outside and inside.
I did not. I bought it from a used car dealership in Washington. That was my first mistake. The guy deals in a lot of BMWs and has another G87 for sale, to it didn't raise any red flags at the time.
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      01-06-2024, 12:58 PM   #61
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Sucks to have this experience buying used. I fell for something similar years ago when I purchased a C6 Z06 from a Chevy dealer who hunted one down for me. Found rock chips in the rear fenders and a weird metal plate under the passenger seat…..I was naive and accepted the car.

After some research realized the metal plate was a fire extinguisher mount, car was tracked heavily with low miles.
On the dyno it was down 20-30hp versus other Z06’s in our local vette club. I kept it a few years but something was always “off” with my connection to it due to feeling like I got hosed AND the valve guide failures that plagued Z06’s….knowing it was driven very hard previously with potential engine issues to come, never really bonded with it.

My advise, trade it in and buy new. Life lesson learned, get one that is yours from onset and treated how you want.
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      01-08-2024, 08:47 PM   #62
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Man what a headache. Regarding the mpg, when I’ve gotten my car back from the dealer for scheduled maintenance, the average mpg is super low. I assume from sitting there idling

But after reading this whole post it does seem a bit fishy
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      01-08-2024, 10:31 PM   #63
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Man what a headache. Regarding the mpg, when I’ve gotten my car back from the dealer for scheduled maintenance, the average mpg is super low. I assume from sitting there idling

But after reading this whole post it does seem a bit fishy
Just a hypothetic example of what I've seen at various dealers.
Say you dropped off the car first thing in the morning and picked it up end of day, but they started working on it after lunch-time. Between all that time they likely moved/idled the car a few times, and the biggest hit to fuel economy - if the car is cold - is that they cannot perform the oil level check until the oil is properly warmed up to a certain level. So some 15+ minutes of idling may be required to do a check and then some more idling as they're moving the cars around before you pick it up.

Depending on how many total miles the average MPG is calculating off of (lifetime, last refill, trip etc.), the MPG could drop dramatically if the mileage is low. At break-in, the mileage isn't high even for lifetime.
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      01-09-2024, 03:39 AM   #64
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In the past I’ve refused to take a 6 month old low milaege BMW at handover due paint issues ( littered in stone chips ) , the dealership were certainly not happy as they had added M performance parts to the car. My mpg since factory is 26 but I’m still running car in and haven’t been in sports +
How are you getting such good mpg?

I’m at around 20-22mpg and I’m still breaking in.
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      01-09-2024, 07:46 AM   #65
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Just a hypothetic example of what I've seen at various dealers.
Say you dropped off the car first thing in the morning and picked it up end of day, but they started working on it after lunch-time. Between all that time they likely moved/idled the car a few times, and the biggest hit to fuel economy - if the car is cold - is that they cannot perform the oil level check until the oil is properly warmed up to a certain level. So some 15+ minutes of idling may be required to do a check and then some more idling as they're moving the cars around before you pick it up.

Depending on how many total miles the average MPG is calculating off of (lifetime, last refill, trip etc.), the MPG could drop dramatically if the mileage is low. At break-in, the mileage isn't high even for lifetime.
Can confirm. I had a trip/data logger with cell phone communication (to a web site run by my employer) device in my two Porsche cars: Boxster, 996 Turbo.

Rather than book an appointment as a waiter, it was more convenient to drop off one of the cars for service and get a shuttle ride home and use my other car.

I could check the car's location and other things from my desk at work. I knew when the car was moved, to where, and engine run time.

Because the oil was supposed to be changed with the engine at or above a specific temperature the engine was allowed to idle until it was hot enough. Then after the tech had refilled the engine with the proper amount of oil -- measured by the digital readout of the oil dispensing nozzle in the service bay -- he'd start the engine and let it idle long enough to ensure the oil was up to temperature and check the oil level and confirm the digital oil level measurement system reading was right.

The Boxster oil level could only be checked with the engine off so after some run time the engine was shut off. It didn't take long with the oil hot before the level could be checked. (There was a countdown timer. If the engine had been off long enough it started counting down from 5 (seconds).) But the Turbo oil level had to be checked with the engine running.

So far my BMWs have been booked in for service with me as a waiter. I bring the car in with engine fully up to temperature. The SA gets the car into service promptly and an hour or so later I get the car back. So the engine doesn't run that much. But I'm sure if I drop a car off it will get some considerable idle time in the process of doing the service.
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      01-09-2024, 05:51 PM   #66
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I did not. I bought it from a used car dealership in Washington. That was my first mistake. The guy deals in a lot of BMWs and has another G87 for sale, to it didn't raise any red flags at the time.
I am sorry to read this mate. This mental spiral/stress can certainly drive anyone nuts.

Have purchased cars which were tracked (heavily tracked most of its life) which has included E36 M3s, R8 V10+ and have sold my E90 M3 with almost 20K of track driving and 110K miles (all bushings/shocks/fluid/rotors etc was replaced prior to sale).

I personally doubt BMW would use a manual Performance Center car but can not isolate it out. During the PC Delivery in NC, I was told most of the cars there are Auto.

Secondly, have purchased an Audi R8 V10+ with 15K miles which was actually an Audi Performance Center vehicle (auctioned off to a dealer and then I had purchased it). It had warranty and drove well. Sold it closer to warranty expiration.

3K miles is negligible in the grand scheme of things. These cars can take a LOT of abuse (have raced them at Club Level and Amateur Level States side and internationally).

If it makes you feel better, get the brake pad coverage from BMW (the 3 year 36K mile plan which can be sold anytime before the time/mileage period). Get the paint/wheel corrected and enjoy it till closer to the warranty period.

Just my 02 cents.
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