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      02-10-2024, 12:51 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chowser51 View Post
Last car was 70% windshield and 20% everything else. It was too dark for me. I had to open my windows to make sure no one was walking near my driveway.

Current car has 70% windshield and 35% everything else. Much better.
What turns me off from 20% is that you cannot see what the driver is doing from outside the car.

I bike a lot, and if I can't see the driver it's hard for me to ride defensively. If I can see where the driver's attention is I can at least somewhat predict behavior.

35%, I can still see which way the driver's head is pointed. That's why I opted for 35% while the shop was telling me "most people do 20%."

That's just crazy to me.

Last edited by MineralGreyMetallic; 02-10-2024 at 04:20 PM..
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      02-16-2024, 12:20 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralGreyMetallic View Post
What turns me off from 20% is that you cannot see what the driver is doing from outside the car.

I bike a lot, and if I can't see the driver it's hard for me to ride defensively. If I can see where the driver's attention is I can at least somewhat predict behavior.

35%, I can still see which way the driver's head is pointed. That's why I opted for 35% while the shop was telling me "most people do 20%."

That's just crazy to me.
I am a motorcyclist so similar issue. Nothing worse that approaching a vehicle perpendicularly with heavily tinted windows and no directional signal. Straight, left, right? Looking, not? Just hate it.

I am 20% rear and 35% doors. 35% is the law in KS so I'm a little dark in the back. Nothing on the windshield.
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      02-16-2024, 12:50 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralGreyMetallic View Post
What turns me off from 20% is that you cannot see what the driver is doing from outside the car.

I bike a lot, and if I can't see the driver it's hard for me to ride defensively. If I can see where the driver's attention is I can at least somewhat predict behavior.

35%, I can still see which way the driver's head is pointed. That's why I opted for 35% while the shop was telling me "most people do 20%."

That's just crazy to me.
Sitting here guilty doing 15% as we speak lmfao. The 35% looked “off” last time. Darker than a cool subtle tint but not dark enough to be cool either imo.
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      02-16-2024, 09:38 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geighty7 View Post
Sitting here guilty doing 15% as we speak lmfao. The 35% looked “off” last time. Darker than a cool subtle tint but not dark enough to be cool either imo.
I can't expect everyone to understand, so I don't judge.

But if you ever spend a lot of time on a bike in the city, you might change your mind about it!
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      02-16-2024, 09:42 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralGreyMetallic View Post
I can't expect everyone to understand, so I don't judge.

But if you ever spend a lot of time on a bike in the city, you might change your mind about it!
I don’t doubt it trust me, it’s probably annoying as a biker for sure.
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      07-03-2024, 10:32 AM   #50
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Hi guys, I’m considering a tint all around my G87 but worried that when I need to remove then one day, I will damage the defroster when removing the rear window tint. Any advise or comments will be appreciated thanks.
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      07-03-2024, 10:45 AM   #51
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BMWG87M2 use a bit of steam to get the film off and goo gone for the residual adhesive. You can even use a plastic razor blade with the goo gone if the adhesive is tough.
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      07-03-2024, 10:51 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ednir98 View Post
BMWG87M2 use a bit of steam to get the film off and goo gone for the residual adhesive. You can even use a plastic razor blade with the goo gone if the adhesive is tough.
Any hard object used with force across the painted heated window lines is likely to damage them, only solvents that are safe for the painted element should be used. There is also a small risk that the adhesive on the tint will remove some of the element when the film is pulled off, with a replacement rear window being the only viable fix.
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      07-03-2024, 10:53 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
Any hard object used with force across the painted heated window lines is likely to damage them
Well just like anything, it's all about finesse. You can damage your paint with a feather if you try hard enough.
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      07-03-2024, 11:02 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ednir98 View Post
Well just like anything, it's all about finesse. You can damage your paint with a feather if you try hard enough.
Finesse would be to not use a blade over the heater lines, between them only. Tint professionals seem to require a waiver to be signed that there is no guarantee they can remove the film without damaging the element.
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      07-03-2024, 11:11 AM   #55
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aerobod I know they're called plastic "blades" but they aren't sharp at all, more for scraping on sensitive surfaces. As long as you don't try scraping it off dry (without glass cleaner or googone) you should be fine. I've been using them since 2019 on all kinds of stuff with positive results, they won't even cut skin. Either way there's more than a few ways to get tint off and even more ways to skin a cat
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      07-03-2024, 11:24 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ednir98 View Post
aerobod I know they're called plastic "blades" but they aren't sharp at all, more for scraping on sensitive surfaces. As long as you don't try scraping it off dry (without glass cleaner or googone) you should be fine. I've been using them since 2019 on all kinds of stuff with positive results, they won't even cut skin. Either way there's more than a few ways to get tint off and even more ways to skin a cat
BMWG87M2 as the original questioner just needs to be aware that there are no guarantees that tint can be removed without damage to the element, hence the reason tint professionals are likely to require a waiver signed before attempting it.
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      07-03-2024, 11:53 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
Any hard object used with force across the painted heated window lines is likely to damage them, only solvents that are safe for the painted element should be used. There is also a small risk that the adhesive on the tint will remove some of the element when the film is pulled off, with a replacement rear window being the only viable fix.
I was not aware modern heating elements were this fragile. I would hope a reputable shop has enough experience removing tint that they have a process to avoid damaging them.
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      07-03-2024, 01:06 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MineralGreyMetallic View Post
I was not aware modern heating elements were this fragile. I would hope a reputable shop has enough experience removing tint that they have a process to avoid damaging them.
They are just screen printed with electrically conductive paint on to the glass surface, then oven baked. I don't think the process has changed for decades. My 1984 Fiat X1/9 seemed to have elements applied to the glass in the same way as my G87.
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      07-03-2024, 01:33 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
They are just screen printed with electrically conductive paint on to the glass surface, then oven baked. I don't think the process has changed for decades. My 1984 Fiat X1/9 seemed to have elements applied to the glass in the same way as my G87.
The more you know! Thanks. 😊
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      07-03-2024, 06:59 PM   #60
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I just installed tint all around, including the windshield. I was hesitant at first as I did not want to make it harder to see at night but the installer convinced me to go with a light ceramic tint for heat rejection which was a main reason I wanted to get the tint in the first place. I got

LLumar Air 80 on the windshield (77% transmittance) and
LLumar IRX 40 everywhere else (42% transmittance).

Haven't really driven it much to know how well it does at rejecting heat but I think it looks good and the windshield is still very clear although you can tell it's a little darker than before. I'll probably adjust to it in a few days and never think about it again but if not I can always peel it off.
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      07-03-2024, 07:09 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAtUserNames View Post
I just installed tint all around, including the windshield. I was hesitant at first as I did not want to make it harder to see at night but the installer convinced me to go with a light ceramic tint for heat rejection which was a main reason I wanted to get the tint in the first place. I got

LLumar Air 80 on the windshield (77% transmittance) and
LLumar IRX 40 everywhere else (42% transmittance).

Haven't really driven it much to know how well it does at rejecting heat but I think it looks good and the windshield is still very clear although you can tell it's a little darker than before. I'll probably adjust to it in a few days and never think about it again but if not I can always peel it off.
Umm wtf are the censor bars around the wheels!? New M Performance is wild apparently.
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      07-03-2024, 08:13 PM   #62
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Umm wtf are the censor bars around the wheels!? New M Performance is wild apparently.
Wanted to shield everyone's eyes from that nasty gap. Haven't had the chance to lower it yet.
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      07-03-2024, 08:32 PM   #63
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Wanted to shield everyone's eyes from that nasty gap. Haven't had the chance to lower it yet.
That is hilarious.
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      07-03-2024, 08:51 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by BadAtUserNames View Post
Wanted to shield everyone's eyes from that nasty gap. Haven't had the chance to lower it yet.
🥹😂 My HAS kit arrives Friday. Will be a bit before the wheels arrive so I identify.
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      07-03-2024, 09:17 PM   #65
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🥹😂 My HAS kit arrives Friday. Will be a bit before the wheels arrive so I identify.
Which wheels did you go with? Did you post this already and I forgot?
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      07-03-2024, 09:30 PM   #66
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Nope. The police around here are fairly lax about window tint, unless it's on the windshield. They enforce that pretty hard.
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