[whatthehuck]

Originally Posted by ///MoT

Does the whine only occur with certain sound profiles? Maybe the gain or input sensitivity is set too high in some of the profiles?

I have settled (for now) on a slightly tweaked version of your modded profile until my umik-1 comes in so that I can really get into it, so I haven't messed with the profiles too much as of yet. Basically cycled through them to try them out that day and then used yours and made a couple very small changes, combined with some changes in the iDrive settings (again, not ideal but temporary)

Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy

oh that would drive me crazy.. did you upgrade the speakers too? If so, did all the speakers get the inline filter installed?

No sir, stock speakers. It's gotta be something in the amps settings that I overlooked or a button I clicked by accident. I'll figure it out.

[baj_baj]

I spent some more time with the software today and my god was the profile from bimmertech bad. Just playing with the gain settings and entering right measurements for timing, made an enormous difference! The distances were all backwards on my amp, measuring over 2 meters for the front speakers, the left side being "closer" than the right side... As if it was setup for the rear passengers in an X7.
I can't imagine what can be squeezed out of this amp when it's done right.

[///MoT]

Yeah, I've been digging into some DSP PC-Tool tutorials, learning about proper filters, Input EQ and gain, etc., and yeah... the BT files are not.... good. I'll just leave it at that.

I plan on starting from the ground up with creating some proper tune/sound files using correct filters, timings, input eq, etc. Will keep this thread updated with my progress.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by ///MoT

Yeah, I've been digging into some DSP PC-Tool tutorials, learning about proper filters, Input EQ and gain, etc., and yeah... the BT files are not.... good. I'll just leave it at that.

I plan on starting from the ground up with creating some proper tune/sound files using correct filters, timings, input eq, etc. Will keep this thread updated with my progress.

I've done some digging and a lot of reading and discovered a few things that might help you out if you can confirm them.

On the DIYmobile audio forum, one user did an input analysis (I can't do it in demo mode for now).

Keep in mind our vehicles have the following configuration:

Front L / R: 2 x Full range speakers (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Center: 1 x Full range speaker (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Rear L / R: 2 x Full range speakers (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Surround L / R: 2 x Full range speakers (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Subwoofers 1 / 2: 2 x Subs

Here is where it gets interesting. The other forum user reports that all the input signals for the full range speakers look similar like this:


You immediately note there is a built in high pass filter. Similarly, the sub input signals are reported to look like this:


That means there is a built in low pass filter to the subwoofer signal.

Why might this be helpful to us? Well we do not need to set crossovers or any high and low pass filters for the channel outputs since the input signal already takes care of it. It would be redundant.

This is also why when we look at the BimmerTech sound profiles we notice on all except the center and subs, the high pass filter has the bypass turned on. For the subs the low pass bypass is turned on. For the center BT uses a filter, but that is because instead of using the center input channel they use 50% of the Front left and 50% of the Front right. Again though their filter use here is redundant since it is built into those channel inputs.

The one really disappointing thing looking at the BT sound profiles is the input signals are not EQ'd at all (unless they don't show up in demo mode), but if the user from the other forum's input frequency responses are accurate, we notice the signal in the full range speakers is not flat at all. Between the mids and highs there is as much as 15db difference. BT really should have flattened the input signal.

The following video, starting at about the 6:40 mark, shows how to EQ the Input signal in the DSP PC Tool. Keep in mind if doing this, one should turn off the channel outputs not to damage the speakers. The volume should be at 90%, and the Audiotech-Fischer Input Signal Analyzer file for pink noise should be used.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adkZ...ist=WL&index=1

[///MoT]

Originally Posted by AdonisP91

I've done some digging and a lot of reading and discovered a few things that might help you out if you can confirm them.

On the DIYmobile audio forum, one user did an input analysis (I can't do it in demo mode for now).

Keep in mind our vehicles have the following configuration:

Front L / R: 2 x Full range speakers (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Center: 1 x Full range speaker (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Rear L / R: 2 x Full range speakers (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Surround L / R: 2 x Full range speakers (mid + tweeter with 2 way passive crossover)
Subwoofers 1 / 2: 2 x Subs

Here is where it gets interesting. The other forum user reports that all the input signals for the full range speakers look similar like this:


You immediately note there is a built in high pass filter. Similarly, the sub input signals are reported to look like this:


That means there is a built in low pass filter to the subwoofer signal.

Why might this be helpful to us? Well we do not need to set crossovers or any high and low pass filters for the channel outputs since the input signal already takes care of it. It would be redundant.

Yes, I thought some filtering was probably coming from the head unit, and thus the reason the BT files had the filters set the way they did. I went ahead and set filters anyway, just to make my OCD feel better.

Originally Posted by AdonisP91

The one really disappointing thing looking at the BT sound profiles is the input signals are not EQ'd at all (unless they don't show up in demo mode), but if the user from the other forum's input frequency responses are accurate, we notice the signal in the full range speakers is not flat at all. Between the mids and highs there is as much as 15db difference. BT really should have flattened the input signal.

Yes, I also had a feeling they didn't EQ the input signals. This is next on my list of things to correct. I'll compare the curves you found with my results when I use the Input Signal Analyzer.

Originally Posted by AdonisP91

The following video, starting at about the 6:40 mark, shows how to EQ the Input signal in the DSP PC Tool. Keep in mind if doing this, one should turn off the channel outputs not to damage the speakers. The volume should be at 90%, and the Audiotech-Fischer Input Signal Analyzer file for pink noise should be used.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adkZ...ist=WL&index=1

Yep, this is the exact video I found to teach me how to use the ISA!

Thanks for the great info here!


-Tom

[BroDoze]

So the good news is, the EQing of the input signals should be something we can all share / benefit from unanimously in this thread as we’re all suffering from the identical issue there. Please let us know the results. Time alignment distances could be another one, but micro adjustments would still need to be made, per the micro differences in each person’s seating position.

Also, can someone please take a screenshot of their page that shows the routes? It may take 2 screenshots if on a 1080p laptop as they don’t all fit on 1 page. I just want to verify something weird I thought was an anomaly with my car.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

So the good news is, the EQing of the input signals should be something we can all share / benefit from unanimously in this thread as we’re all suffering from the identical issue there. Please let us know the results. Time alignment distances could be another one, but micro adjustments would still need to be made, per the micro differences in each person’s seating position.

Also, can someone please take a screenshot of their page that shows the routes? It may take 2 screenshots if on a 1080p laptop as they don’t all fit on 1 page. I just want to verify something weird I thought was an anomaly with my car.

Agreed, also in case anyone wants to understand why BT changed the centre channel processing (which includes the Real Center sound effect) here is a good article from Reasonix Sound Solutions that explains it as well as some potential further tweaks we can try on the rear surround speakers to achieve a differential rear fill.

https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/he...l-real-center/

I’ll make another post with the routing.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

So the good news is, the EQing of the input signals should be something we can all share / benefit from unanimously in this thread as we’re all suffering from the identical issue there. Please let us know the results. Time alignment distances could be another one, but micro adjustments would still need to be made, per the micro differences in each person’s seating position.

Also, can someone please take a screenshot of their page that shows the routes? It may take 2 screenshots if on a 1080p laptop as they don’t all fit on 1 page. I just want to verify something weird I thought was an anomaly with my car.

Here is the BimmerTech Main to Virtual Routing, followed by the Virtual to Output Routing:




Here is the Audiotech-Fischer sound profile Main to Virtual Routing followed by the Virtual to Output Routing:




Hopefully this is what you wanted.

ETA: looking at the routing you requested it is weird that BT is passing the front center full to the left surround and the rear fill full to the right surround. I have no idea what that is about.

[AdonisP91]

Another very odd decision from BT, they EQ'd the channel outputs for the Subwoofers, Surrounds, and Rear speakers as a pair with the exact same filters. Only the Front left and right speakers were EQ'd individually. I have never seen that done in any of the tuning videos I have seen. The individual channels and speakers are always EQ'd individually to meet the overall target curve. Maybe BT knows something I haven't learnt yet, but on the surface it looks like they were very lazy with their tune of both the Input and Output EQs.

[kenkamm]

Have you guys been able to successfully mitigate the issue with the turn signals and various warning gongs being too loud?

Also, have you all been able to successfully code ASD fully off?

[BroDoze]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

Have you guys been able to successfully mitigate the issue with the turn signals and various warning gongs being too loud?

Also, have you all been able to successfully code ASD fully off?

So I’m puzzled about the talk about blinkers and gongs being too loud. I don’t believe I’m experiencing that.

Yes, first thing I did after picking the new car up from the dealer was code out ASD.

I have also done extensive sound deadening to the car.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

Have you guys been able to successfully mitigate the issue with the turn signals and various warning gongs being too loud?

Also, have you all been able to successfully code ASD fully off?

Tom posted up thread that changing the input sensitivity settings mitigates the turn signal and system sound amplification. For coding out ASD you can user BimmerCode.

[AdonisP91]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

So I’m puzzled about the talk about blinkers and gongs being too loud. I don’t believe I’m experiencing that.

Yes, first thing I did after picking the new car up from the dealer was code out ASD.

I have also done extensive sound deadening to the car.

How much did the sound deadening cost you and did you do it yourself or had someone do it for you? I’m strongly considering doing it, but I have so many mods planned already I am not sure about the budget

[baj_baj]

Originally Posted by kenkamm

Have you guys been able to successfully mitigate the issue with the turn signals and various warning gongs being too loud?

Also, have you all been able to successfully code ASD fully off?

I never experienced these problems, what ever I did with the gains in the amp, the gongs remained pretty much the same. The only thing really loud and annoying was ASD, but coding it fully off was a 2min job.

[BroDoze]

Originally Posted by AdonisP91

How much did the sound deadening cost you and did you do it yourself or had someone do it for you? I’m strongly considering doing it, but I have so many mods planned already I am not sure about the budget

I did it all myself (I do all my vehicles and I used to do this professionally for many years) and I used all ResoNix product. The best.
It’s a lot of work but makes a big difference.
However, I will say this M2 is one of the loudest vehicles I’ve had in a long while. Even after all of my work, the noise floor when the car is on the road is still pretty high. The tire noise and my aftermarket exhaust being the worst. I’ve done all I can do, short of removing the headliner and handling the carbon roof. The thin CF roof has some mean resonance at certain frequencies, but for now, I’m avoiding the massive undertaking of dropping the headliner.
I literally tore the entire car apart everywhere else including front fender liners. Probably added a good 60-80lbs to the car. It was worth it to me, as before I couldn’t even attempt to enjoy any sort of audio.

[IanH]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

I did it all myself (I do all my vehicles) and I used all ResoNix product. The best.
It’s a lot of work but makes a big difference. However, I will say this M2 is one of the loudest vehicles I’ve had in a long while. Even after all of my work, the noise floor when the car is on the road is still pretty high. The tire noise and my aftermarket exhaust being the worst. I’ve done all I can, short of removing the headliner and handling the carbon roof. I literally tore the entire car apart everywhere else. Probably added a good 60-80lbs to the car. It was worth it to me, as before I couldn’t even attempt to enjoy any sort of audio.

The unibody of this car really is a giant timpani. All one has to do is look under the trunk floor to see vast sections of sheet metal begging for MLV. I'm sure that continues under the back seats.

[BroDoze]

Originally Posted by IanH

The unibody of this car really is a giant timpani. All one has to do is look under the trunk floor to see vast sections of sheet metal begging for MLV. I'm sure that continues under the back seats.

Yep. Normally in most vehicles, you can get 90% of the benefit of sound deadening hitting the worst areas and be done. Not so with this car. I had to hit everywhere, with each place I hit only making a small, incremental change for the better. Lot of work, and it is by no means “dead quiet” on-road. Very noisy car. I’m convinced I’ll only ever get to 60%-70% better without dropping the headliner, which is not the case with most other vehicles in my experience.

[whatthehuck]

Ok I know this technically the thread for this but I've been trying to code out ASD unsuccessfully and it's driving me nuts. Maybe someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong? Open up Bimmercode, go to RAM, go to expert and set everything related to ASD to "inactive". Also in NOT expert mode, I tap "disable ASD". Hit code, turn the car on, ASD rattles the subs. Is there something I'm missing? I was reading the comments in the post that explains how to code it out and lots of people were saying they couldn't get it to turn off after coding it out.

[whatthehuck]

Figured it out, you have to click on the 3 dots at the top of the screen for your options and hit activation codes, then deactivate the one for ASD. After that everything turned off and the center console button and M sound options both open or close the valves in the exhaust for a little more sound. Glad I got that taken care of.

Now for the next problem I'm having... I bought a longer usb cable so I could have my laptop in the car with me while I make changes, when I use anything other than the cable that came with the amp, the laptop won't recognize the amp and I can't make any changes. Any ideas?

[IanH]

Long usb cables can be very finicky. What was the spec of the supplied cable? What cable did you buy?

[whatthehuck]

I'd have to look at it again, but it seems like a very basic 3.5'-4' long usb to usb mini. I got this one in 10ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091SQKMQK...sin_title&th=1

[///MoT]

Originally Posted by whatthehuck

Figured it out, you have to click on the 3 dots at the top of the screen for your options and hit activation codes, then deactivate the one for ASD. After that everything turned off and the center console button and M sound options both open or close the valves in the exhaust for a little more sound. Glad I got that taken care of.

Now for the next problem I'm having... I bought a longer usb cable so I could have my laptop in the car with me while I make changes, when I use anything other than the cable that came with the amp, the laptop won't recognize the amp and I can't make any changes. Any ideas?

Here's a link to the one I ordered, and it's working perfectly for me:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1