[M2 CCO]

Originally Posted by m20e3087

What size are those race ramps? I am debating between 53 and 67.

They are the 67.

[M2-Bob]

Originally Posted by M Division

Upgraded the subwoofers

How does it sound?

Originally Posted by M Division

Also loaded up the CSL M4 steering software.

Much better, no more dead spot at top centre, faster lock to lock, more direct response, faster turn in.

How did you do this?

[M Division]

Originally Posted by M2-Bob

How did you do this?

The bavsound sub v3s sound exactly like the stock ones this far.

I'm going to double check the connections to the passenger side maybe it's not working.

At the moment they're a waste of time and money.



The CSL steering you literally load the CSL software via e-sys, there's a few guys who do it remotely online for a few hundred.

[2SG5]

Originally Posted by Rx-7ames

I just put on some all season tires for the mild Oregon Winter. The summers were getting a little squirrelly on those sub-50 degree mornings. I'm very impressed with how well the grip with no warm-up. Yeah, it's not like summer tires on a hot day, but there is far less slip now. No regrets!

Oh yeah, I went with Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 plus in the OEM sizes.

I ended up going with Michelin Pilot 4 All-Seasons in stock size, was also very pleasantly surprised at how big of a difference they made. The ride also feels a lot more compliant.

[M2-Bob]

Originally Posted by M Division

The bavsound sub v3s sound exactly like the stock ones this far.

I'm going to double check the connections to the passenger side maybe it's not working.

At the moment they're a waste of time and money.



The CSL steering you literally load the CSL software via e-sys, there's a few guys who do it remotely online for a few hundred.

Ugh sorry to hear that about the sub. I've heard they get better as they break in a little.

Thanks for the CSL info. Never heard of someone doing that.

[M2PDX]

Swapped wheels (930s to 825Ms), saving 24.4 lbs in unsprung weight!

[M Division]

Originally Posted by M2-Bob

Ugh sorry to hear that about the sub. I've heard they get better as they break in a little.

Thanks for the CSL info. Never heard of someone doing that

I coded the Bowers & Wilkins EQ and adjusted the settings a bit, the bass is better now but I also assume the stock subs would of also responded well to the new EQ settings so hard to say the subs upgrade is worth the cost.


The CSL steering however is the best modnive done to the car!

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by M Division

The bavsound sub v3s sound exactly like the stock ones this far.

I'm going to double check the connections to the passenger side maybe it's not working.

At the moment they're a waste of time and money.



The CSL steering you literally load the CSL software via e-sys, there's a few guys who do it remotely online for a few hundred.

Don’t freak out yet. Home system subs have a breakin period that yields HUGE gains. I hooked mine up in the garage and cranked them all night for hours. When they were done the output was almost double and so much more refined. They are REL’s. Hopefully it’s the same story for these. I think they just need to loosen up. BAV should really put out some sort of breakin plan for these. Good luck!

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by M2siast

Would the stock system improve after breaking in as well?

I would guess so? But, I don’t really know. I’m not going to bullshit if I don’t really know the answer. I have this real experience with 12” home subs, but I would think it applies to the car segment as well. Maybe someone with more experience with these stock car systems has more knowledge…

[M Division]

Originally Posted by M2siast

Would the stock system improve after breaking in as well?

That's a good idea blasting the garage overnight, love it!

They do have a note that says 12hour break in but I didn't expect it would make a big difference but hopefully my experience is like yours.

Fingers crossed, appreciate the advice!

In fact after some more EQ tweaks I think there is a apparently uplift in bass.

Frequency wouldn't change much only so much an 8inch can throw but it hits harder.. pretty cool actually..

[Rx-7ames]

Originally Posted by M Division

The bavsound sub v3s sound exactly like the stock ones this far.

I'm going to double check the connections to the passenger side maybe it's not working.

At the moment they're a waste of time and money.

When I upgrade my audio, and I will, I'm going to go with the Bimmer-tech Alpha One subs and their amp at the same time. That way you can go from 7 ohm to 4 ohm subs. That alone should make a big difference.

I'm sorry your sub upgrade has not been fruitful so far.

[baj_baj]

I think the biggest problem is the amp, with its 450ish watt, it just doesn't have enough juice. The bass is all good until about half the volume and then the compromise starts. The power from subs goes to the mids and highs until it sounds like complete s**t. My alpha one amp should come on Friday, I'm really curious how much of a difference is it going to make.

[BMR.WRLD]

Originally Posted by rk95

I’ve had the AA EL midpipe for about 2 months now waiting for my car. Anyone have any sounds clips with stock DP and exhaust with the AA EL midpipe?

Late to respond, but this video convinced me to go with that set up.

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by M Division

That's a good idea blasting the garage overnight, love it!

They do have a note that says 12hour break in but I didn't expect it would make a big difference but hopefully my experience is like yours.

Fingers crossed, appreciate the advice!

In fact after some more EQ tweaks I think there is a apparently uplift in bass.

Frequency wouldn't change much only so much an 8inch can throw but it hits harder.. pretty cool actually..

I had to blast out the garage with very low bass heavy music to burn them in as quick as possible. I have neighbors below and the subs were 12” active with a downfiring passive radiator and 800 watts each, so blowing them out in the house wasn’t a good option. The garage is far removed, so it was the only option I could get away with. If I had to guess, the output doubled at the same volume by the morning.

Looking forward to hearing a report after a couple weeks. True that the 450 watts is pretty light, but we’re not going for reference levels with a mainly stock system. I’m anxious to hear how these burn in. Good luck.

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by Rx-7ames

When I upgrade my audio, and I will, I'm going to go with the Bimmer-tech Alpha One subs and their amp at the same time. That way you can go from 7 ohm to 4 ohm subs. That alone should make a big difference.

I'm sorry your sub upgrade has not been fruitful so far.

This I need to look into. Thanks for the tip, I didn’t know there was a plug and play amp.

[Newgenbimmer]

Window Tint , IRL Single Midpipe and Valve Controller .

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by BMR.WRLD

Late to respond, but this video convinced me to go with that set up.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tlB0Eh3BNo&t=73s

Same video that convinced me as well. Waiting for her in the mail then she’s going right on.

[AZG87]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

Same video that convinced me as well. Waiting for her in the mail then she’s going right on.

Been a couple weeks now with the AA EL mid on. Oem dp and ab. Definitely wakes her up. Actually better than expecting for just a mid upgrade, especially rowdy in engine sport plus and trans d3. I find myself even closing the valves on occasion in crowded parking lots to avoid scaring small children on the decel lol.

[yuzu]

Didn't do anything to my car today but did book the 2 day M school in Spartanburg for next year

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by AZG87

Been a couple weeks now with the AA EL mid on. Oem dp and ab. Definitely wakes her up. Actually better than expecting for just a mid upgrade, especially rowdy in engine sport plus and trans d3. I find myself even closing the valves on occasion in crowded parking lots to avoid scaring small children on the decel lol.

Are you coupling it with a valve controller for full exhaust dump? I wish there was an easy and simple way to wire the valve controller directly to the exhaust button in-cab vs using an external device or wiring it to the mirror button.

[yuzu]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

Are you coupling it with a valve controller for full exhaust dump? I wish there was an easy and simple way to wire the valve controller directly to the exhaust button in-cab vs using an external device or wiring it to the mirror button.

Valve controller install is extremely easy and you don't even know it's there. I thought the same about wanting to use the exhaust button but once it's synced to the buttons on the mirror it feels OEM.

Also would like to echo that it's shocking how loud it is with just a midpipe and valve controller. The cold start with the valves open is downright obnoxious . I had it set to always start with the valves open for a while but quickly changed it just cause I feel like a nuisance sometimes. That all being said I absolutely LOVE how it turned out.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by yuzu

Valve controller install is extremely easy and you don't even know it's there. I thought the same about wanting to use the exhaust button but once it's synced to the buttons on the mirror it feels OEM.

Also would like to echo that it's shocking how loud it is with just a midpipe and valve controller. The cold start with the valves open is downright obnoxious . I had it set to always start with the valves open for a while but quickly changed it just cause I feel like a nuisance sometimes. That all being said I absolutely LOVE how it turned out.

Excellent feedback on this. Which buttons on the mirrors does it connect to? The flip switch? Does it take away any functionality from moving your mirrors?