[Jashue]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

Its very loud just driving at 1-2mph and gets louder when turning on the side your turning to up to 15-30mph, it reduces in speed the faster you go, till i think it stops all together but obviously the road noise is loud then too

Okay, I just got back from a drive with the windows down (something I never do). I'm sorry to report that I heard nothing out of the ordinary (other than that godforsaken rear suspension thump). And believe me— if I did, I'd be going nuts about it.

This makes me wonder if your situation and mine have a different variable or two to make for different experiences. To recap my setup: ZTK package running four VS-5RS 19x9" ET25. What's exactly your setup?

Edit: the official SKU from the invoice— VS5RS199ET25-5112-666-B-NSBZ. Cross reference that against yours.

[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by Jashue

To recap my setup: ZTK package running four VS-5RS 19x9" ET25. That's exactly your setup?

ZTK package, VS-5RS 19x9.5" ET25, Eibach Pro Springs

[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by Jashue

And believe me— if I did, I'd be going nuts about it.

just gone out and recorded a video

[viperx100]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

just gone out and recorded a video

Thanks for posting a vid. Kinda sounds like when we used to put playing cards in the bicycle spokes. So no one has a clue as to what is causing the sound? APEX guys haven't weighed in yet? I have the same setup as Jashue coming - ZTK package, VS-5RS 19x9 ET25 all around and I also have the Eibach Pro Kit on my G42. Can the 9 vs 9.5 somehow make a difference?

[BabyM240i]

Originally Posted by viperx100

Thanks for posting a vid. Kinda sounds like when we used to put playing cards in the bicycle spokes. So no one has a clue as to what is causing the sound? APEX guys haven't weighed in yet? I have the same setup as Jashue coming - ZTK package, VS-5RS 19x9 ET25 all around and I also have the Eibach Pro Kit on my G42. Can the 9 vs 9.5 somehow make a difference?

I just completed my purchase and I’m awaiting shipping… sure hope this isn’t in my future.

[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by viperx100

Thanks for posting a vid. Kinda sounds like when we used to put playing cards in the bicycle spokes. So no one has a clue as to what is causing the sound? APEX guys haven't weighed in yet? I have the same setup as Jashue coming - ZTK package, VS-5RS 19x9 ET25 all around and I also have the Eibach Pro Kit on my G42. Can the 9 vs 9.5 somehow make a difference?

I was hoping they see it here but I thought this is what everyone here's? I'm going to remove and check the wheels over this week

Expert@ApexWheels will this give them notice?

[viperx100]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

I was hoping they see it here but I thought this is what everyone here's? I'm going to remove and check the wheels over this week

Expert@ApexWheels will this give them notice?

I sure hope that's not a thing with every set of these wheels because there shouldn't be a sound like this as a norm with aftermarket wheels, especially ones from a reputable brand for not exactly pennies.

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Hi all,

I'm catching up to forum responses this morning. The text here is a repost in some sections from another thread.

This ticking noise has cropped up a few times. I’m generally the one answering the phone on the BMW line and I know I’ve talked to a few customers about the issue. With that said, it's a relatively rare issue. It is certainly happening hence the video and the calls but it isn’t happening to every car with these wheels.
These are by far our most popular design/wheels for these cars and the vast majority of customers don't get the tick in a way that is audible.

We’ve seen this issue on the G chassis BMWs and some of the F8X M cars as well as the A90 Supra once. This will be a longer response, but here is the TLDR:
We suspect that our wheels are amplifying a pre-existing noise, especially for cars with certain types of brake rotors.

There are a few service bulletins that cover a similar issue with BMW OE wheels. There are more than these 2, but I’ll link the 2 I have saved:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...74009-9999.pdf
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...46758-9999.pdf

Before I worked for Apex, I worked for a BMW dealer in the warranty department. I do remember a few of the F80 M3 and F82 M4s coming in for a similar issue. In the case of the SIBs, the ticking is coming from the interface between the hub flange and the brake rotor itself and it applies specifically to cars with certain 2-piece rotors (described as lightweight discs in the SIB). This tracks with feedback from our customers as most commonly the noise has occurred either on F chassis cars with the floating rotors or the lightweight rotors common on many of the G chassis models.

The SIBs offer the option of installing a small shim they call a friction disc in between the rotor face and the hub. The friction disc for these SIBs is sandwitched between the hub and rotor when installed as recommended. It's important to note that the bulletin also provides some work time for the tech to clean the hub flange. We’ve had a few customers eliminate the clicking noise just by removing corrosion from and cleaning their hub flange as well as the mating surfaces of the rotors on either side.

Spacers or anti-seize between the wheel mounting face and the brake rotor can also prevent or reduce the noise considerably. It’s likely that whatever is causing the tick sounds is still there, but the spacer/anti-seize is preventing most of the vibrations from transferring into the wheel which is likely what causes the sound. Think of a large bell being hit with a hammer, then a bell being hit by the same hammer with an inch-thick piece of rubber in between the bell and hammer. The cause of the noise is still there, but it's going to be much less audible.

Our forged wheels are quite stiff and have less material than most of the OE wheels that come with these cars hence their light weight. That combined with potentially some of the pocketing machining on the back of the wheel which further reduces the weight of the wheel seems to make the sound more audible with our wheels than OE wheels.

With those possible solutions outlined above, it’s important to highlight that this isn’t a structural defect or a deeper issue with the wheels themselves. We’ve seen no indication that there are any safety concerns with these designs or any other problems beyond the annoying sound. If you own a set of these wheels and aren't happy with them because of this issue, please do reach out to support@apexwheels.com.

-Tom

[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexWheels

Hi all,
I'm catching up to forum responses this morning. The text here is a repost in some sections from another thread......

Hi Tom thanks for responding, when you say a friction disc in between the rotor face and the hub, do you mean taking the hub off and placing it inside? is there any instructions to do that anywhere and is there a place to get the friction discs or an oem part number?

Also is that the same place were the copper grease would go? its no use putting it between the wheel and the hub?

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

Hi Tom thanks for responding, when you say a friction disc in between the rotor face and the hub, do you mean taking the hub off and placing it inside? is there any instructions to do that anywhere and is there a place to get the friction discs or an oem part number?

Also is that the same place were the copper grease would go? its no use putting it between the wheel and the hub?

The SIB lists the parts, I believe they use 34 10 6 884 839 for the 5x112 hubs. I don't know if a similar SIB has been issued for the G42 yet, so there may not be an SIB for these cars in particular. The disc or shim sits in between the hub and rotor. You'd have to pull the rotors off to install it in the location recommended by the SIB. You don't need to remove the hub.
I don't know if inserting this disc in between the rotor face and the wheel will fix anything as that isn't how BMW intended for it to be used, but it's essentially a small spacer so in theory it might.

Cleaning of any potential corrosion on the hubs or rotor without anything else fixed the problem for one customer as I mentioned earlier.

Some of our customers have had success in eliminating the noise with a thin wheel spacer (inserts between the rotor surface and wheel) or a light layer of anti-seize applied to the wheel mounting surface. You need to be careful with anti-seize though as you don't want to contaminate the braking surface of the rotors or get any on the wheel fasteners (bolts/studs) as it can affect torque values/contaminate brake pads.

Part of our problem figuring out what is causing this is it seems to be different each time we see it. In your case, does it seem to be coming from all 4 corners of the car? or just 1 or 2?

Any difference in cornering vs straight?

-Tom

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Also worth mentioning, this rarely fixes it or is the root cause, but its always worth checking the torque on the wheel bolts. The SIB recommends replacing the bolts on cars that are 2 years old, but that's pretty common for work like this at the dealer.

-Tom

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Originally Posted by viperx100

Thanks for posting a vid. Kinda sounds like when we used to put playing cards in the bicycle spokes. So no one has a clue as to what is causing the sound? APEX guys haven't weighed in yet? I have the same setup as Jashue coming - ZTK package, VS-5RS 19x9 ET25 all around and I also have the Eibach Pro Kit on my G42. Can the 9 vs 9.5 somehow make a difference?

We've seen so few of these ticking cases that its hard to be certain, but wheel width does not seem to matter.

-Tom

[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexWheels

In your case, does it seem to be coming from all 4 corners of the car? or just 1 or 2?

Any difference in cornering vs straight?

-Tom

Seems to be the rears, and definitely gets worse in cornering, im going to re-tourqe the wheels and put a little aluminium grease on see if that helps first thanks

[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

I'm going to re-tourqe the wheels and put a little aluminium grease on see if that helps first thanks

Just done this and it's completely silent

[Expert@ApexWheels]

Some of you may have already seen the reveal of this project on our instagram, but we wanted to reach out to the BMW community on the forums as well to collect feedback about the development of a new wheel design.

Project ML-10 Background:

After Josh, one of our Senior Product Engineers installed a widebody kit on his race car project, he had to design a custom set of wheels to fit his extreme application. Originally a one off project, when he showed the team what he created, we were floored. And our community was too when we shared a picture on Instagram and Facebook.


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[Expert@ApexWheels]

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[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

Just done this and it's completely silent

It's back albeit very reduced compaired to the video, but enough to be annoying, best thing is keep the windows shut lol

[AlexC2er]

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

It's back albeit very reduced compaired to the video, but enough to be annoying, best thing is keep the windows shut lol

Yeah mine also has the clicks which audible at low speeds even with the window shut. Doesn’t really bother me tho.

[viperx100]

Finally got the APEX wheels in Anthracite and put them on. 19x9 square setup 255/35/19 and Eibach springs. No spacers but I may add a few teeny ones to flush them out. Love the look and the more nimble/lighter driving feel. I'll probably swap the APEX center caps for 50th 50th-anniversary ones that I had on my OG wheels.

[Expert@ApexWheels]

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[cannockwolf]

Originally Posted by Expert@ApexWheels

Hi all,

I'm catching up to forum responses this morning. The text here is a repost in some sections from another thread.

Originally Posted by cannockwolf

Hi Tom thanks for responding, when you say a friction disc in between the rotor face and the hub, do you mean taking the hub off and placing it inside? is there any instructions to do that anywhere and is there a place to get the friction discs or an oem part number?

The ticking returned quite bad so i have ordered the friction discs, getting them fitted Friday hopefully that sorts its out once and for all

[cannockwolf]

Fitted the friction discs and its completely silent now