[iqraceworks]

It detected a head gasket leak on my 05' F250 diesel with 225k miles on it (trace amounts of coolant in the oil). Saved my block/heads from any real damage. I might have not know it had an issue until I was towing something out in the middle of nowhere and had the motor overheat and lock up.

I was able to pull the heads off and replace the gaskets.

It was worth $25 to me......

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by David70

"That’s why Pennzoil is the recommended supplier of genuine BMW Engine Oil in North America. "

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/performance/automakers/bmw.html

Scuttlebutt is that it ia changing back to Castrol once the current contract expires.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Scuttlebutt is that it ia changing back to Castrol once the current contract expires.

I've used BMW's oil all along for the E90. It started as Castrol, then switched to Pennzoil. Now I guess it'll go back to Castrol. Let's just hope they keep the bottles in the 1-liter size (which happened when BMW swapped to Pennzoil).

[5.M0NSTER]

What oil is in my M2? Dunno. Whatever BMW put in it 2 year ago. Last oil change March 2019. Next oil change March 2021 per BMW suggested use interval. iDrive tells me every morning I still have 10,000km left till next oil change. Had to top it off once in-between.

BMW Germany believe in every 2 years on 25,000km. So every ~15,500 miles. I do about 7,000 miler per year a few track days. Who am I to argue?

[David70]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I just have to say, as I've stated in other threads recently, I have well over 1 million driven miles in 40 years. I've never had engine oil analyzed by a company such as Blackstone. I've followed each of my vehicle's manufacturer's oil change interval and oil/filter requirements for the model I had and have yet to lose an engine, or have an engine require a repair related to oil performance. And almost every vehicle I've owned I've driven well past 150,000 miles and three past 200,000 miles. It adds $25 to an oil change for no real benefit.

An oil analysis tells you how the oil performed under the last oil change interval. It is no better a predictor of oil performance looking forward than the manufacturer's recommendations. For fleet operators, an oil analysis may be beneficial, but fleet operations are much different than private auto operation.

Averaging well over 25k miles per year for 40 years is surprising.

Like getting specialized health checkups, you can find many people that never did them and still lived a long time. It doesn't mean the check is worthless, especially if you have a family history of a problem. I also haven't paid for a Blackstone but with some engines prone to certain problems, like the S54 (the family history) and it's rod bearings that have shown to wear through, finding the problem before there is a problem has value. We have seen engines following the manufacturers recommendations still have problems, especially regularly tracked cars.

[MX Racer]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

What oil is in my M2? Dunno. Whatever BMW put in it 2 year ago. Last oil change March 2019. Next oil change March 2021 per BMW suggested use interval. iDrive tells me every morning I still have 10,000km left till next oil change. Had to top it off once in-between.

BMW Germany believe in every 2 years on 25,000km. So every ~15,500 miles. I do about 7,000 miler per year a few track days. Who am I to argue?

For leased cars that will be dumped that is fine. If you decide to keep it long term a shorter interval would be recommended.

[cooolone2]

Ummmm, just no! The oil oxidizing while sitting in the engine still requires it be changed every 6 months even while sitting! Lmao, unless of course it isn't yours, or you just don't care! And yes, you can get away with longer intervals, but it's a crapshoot depending upon the oil you use and the quality of the filter. Have fun!

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by cooolone2

The oil oxidizing while sitting in the engine still requires it be changed every 6 months even while sitting!

Sources / evidence?

[Teutonic]

Regardless of the warranty, bla-bla's and other manufacturer suggestion, the golden rule is:

* Replace the engine oil always at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) - maximum 15,000km (9,000 miles). If you love your car do it more often. A new oil will just help.

* If you are making less km than that per year YOU MUST replace the oil once a year, even if the car sits in the garage.

Don't be cheap an oil. You will pay dearly later....

[tracer bullet]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

Don't be cheap an oil. You will pay dearly later....

Even then you can have issues. I'm a 5k miles / 1 year / whichever comes first person. I still ended up getting a new Valvetronic motor & eccentric shaft replaced. Only 29k miles on the car (2011). I have started to wonder if I actually drive it too infrequently because at least every other trip in it I make sure to drive 20 - 30 minutes to get it fully warmed up (no milky oil from lots of short trips).

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Even then you can have issues. I'm a 5k miles / 1 year / whichever comes first person. I still ended up getting a new Valvetronic motor & eccentric shaft replaced. Only 29k miles on the car (2011). I have started to wonder if I actually drive it too infrequently because at least every other trip in it I make sure to drive 20 - 30 minutes to get it fully warmed up (no milky oil from lots of short trips).

I doubt changing your oil let's say 7k miles instead is going to prematurely cause issues with that.

Shit just breaks over time it is what it is. I don't think it's because you're not driving the car enough lol.

[Boltar]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

if I actually drive it too infrequently

That is actually possible. A BMW dealer once explained that to me:

Moving parts, all kinds of materials, tend to get "stuck" when you dont move them frequently. So when you then move them again, after a longer period of time, small bits and pieces will be teared off the surfaces. That way, leakage can and will happen. This applies to air conditioning compressors, for example.

Also, rubber parts of all kinds will lose their ability to flex when they are not flexed for some time.

In Germany theres even a word for that, Standschäden. Its a bit hard to translate it, "stand" means standing still and Schäden is damage. So you get the point: A car is made to be driven. Not to stand still.

Also, the oil I use is Ravenol 0w40, replaced every 12 months (i'm at ~8000 miles per year)

[tracer bullet]

Generally there's always a thin layer of oil between metal surfaces i.e. crank journals and bearings. Obviously when running, but it stays behind afterwards. I wouldn't find it hard to believe that eventually however, gravity brings the metal parts together and gets 100% of the oil out of the way, at least in spots. My theory anyhow. Not sure if it's a week, a month, a year, but at some point (?).

[David70]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Generally there's always a thin layer of oil between metal surfaces i.e. crank journals and bearings. Obviously when running, but it stays behind afterwards. I wouldn't find it hard to believe that eventually however, gravity brings the metal parts together and gets 100% of the oil out of the way, at least in spots. My theory anyhow. Not sure if it's a week, a month, a year, but at some point (?).

I agree and also don't know the answer to it. A friend of mine has a Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio (505 hp) that he doesn't drive in the Winter, I have a BMW Z4M that I also don't drive in the Winter. I put my car on a battery tender and it sits for 3 months, he start and pulls his car out of the garage I think every other week. I honestly don't know if my car starting at the end of sitting for 3 months is better than him starting his car every other week (6 times over 3 months), or if either matters. It would be difficult to get it to normal operating temperature when it is idling in the driveway in the Winter in Ohio.

[5.M0NSTER]

Originally Posted by MX Racer

For leased cars that will be dumped that is fine. If you decide to keep it long term a shorter interval would be recommended.

I own it. I'm not worried at all. Modern oil is quite good these days. Filter is the weaker point.

Originally Posted by cooolone2

Ummmm, just no! The oil oxidizing while sitting in the engine still requires it be changed every 6 months even while sitting! Lmao, unless of course it isn't yours, or you just don't care! And yes, you can get away with longer intervals, but it's a crapshoot depending upon the oil you use and the quality of the filter. Have fun!

I've had Blackstone analyze my oil after 9000 miles telling me that all is fine, and I should try a longer drain interval. On more than one occasion, with a couple different cars. Stopped subscribing to "change it sooner" after that. BMW know what they're talking about. I have 0 worries.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by tracer bullet

Generally there's always a thin layer of oil between metal surfaces i.e. crank journals and bearings. Obviously when running, but it stays behind afterwards. I wouldn't find it hard to believe that eventually however, gravity brings the metal parts together and gets 100% of the oil out of the way, at least in spots. My theory anyhow. Not sure if it's a week, a month, a year, but at some point (?).

Anti-wear (extreme pressure additives) additives stay behind and offer added protection.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com...cation-regimes

https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...ry-lubrication

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

What oil is in my M2? Dunno. Whatever BMW put in it 2 year ago. Last oil change March 2019. Next oil change March 2021 per BMW suggested use interval. iDrive tells me every morning I still have 10,000km left till next oil change. Had to top it off once in-between.

BMW Germany believe in every 2 years on 25,000km. So every ~15,500 miles. I do about 7,000 miler per year a few track days. Who am I to argue?

Here in Canada, we follow the 1 year rule.

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by David70

I agree and also don't know the answer to it. A friend of mine has a Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio (505 hp) that he doesn't drive in the Winter, I have a BMW Z4M that I also don't drive in the Winter. I put my car on a battery tender and it sits for 3 months, he start and pulls his car out of the garage I think every other week. I honestly don't know if my car starting at the end of sitting for 3 months is better than him starting his car every other week (6 times over 3 months), or if either matters. It would be difficult to get it to normal operating temperature when it is idling in the driveway in the Winter in Ohio.

Starting the car once a week like that is the worst thing you can do for a car in storage. The oil will get loaded with fuel and water, exhaust will get filled with water.

Put in Stabil, fill the tank, fill the tires to 50 psi, put a battery tender on it and forget about it till spring.

[ky0u]

Originally Posted by Teutonic

Regardless of the warranty, bla-bla's and other manufacturer suggestion, the golden rule is:

* Replace the engine oil always at 10,000 km (6,000 miles) - maximum 15,000km (9,000 miles). If you love your car do it more often. A new oil will just help.

* If you are making less km than that per year YOU MUST replace the oil once a year, even if the car sits in the garage.

Don't be cheap an oil. You will pay dearly later....

Agreed, The cost of oil is so cheap compared to damage caused by oil issues, always better to play it safe.

I do my e92 at 7,500mi, half of the indicated interval. My e30 gets 1 per 3500-5k depending on driving. I use liquiMoly on both and both running strong at 122k miles and 320k miles respectively.

[Mosaud1998]

I use Liqui-Molly 5w-40 along with a Mann oil filter. I did add Liqui-Molly CeraTech at 70k miles. I am at 72k miles right now. I have not noticed any difference. Idk If I'll use Ceratech again. But, I change my oil every 5k/6 months and buy an oil change kit off fcp (lifetime warranty on everything).

Oil change kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...427566327kt-lm

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by David70

Averaging well over 25k miles per year for 40 years is surprising.

Like getting specialized health checkups, you can find many people that never did them and still lived a long time. It doesn't mean the check is worthless, especially if you have a family history of a problem. I also haven't paid for a Blackstone but with some engines prone to certain problems, like the S54 (the family history) and it's rod bearings that have shown to wear through, finding the problem before there is a problem has value. We have seen engines following the manufacturers recommendations still have problems, especially regularly tracked cars.

Last I checked, manufacturers of street cars don't recommend tracking tracking their cars and keeping the warranty. But you can bring up a new issue I didn't address to try and make a counterpoint my position. If one tracks their car, they probably shouldn't follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedule. Not like that's not obvious...

Or you can point to unique situations of low-rate production engines with over-stressed parts. Yay!

[chris719]

Originally Posted by David70

Averaging well over 25k miles per year for 40 years is surprising.

Like getting specialized health checkups, you can find many people that never did them and still lived a long time. It doesn't mean the check is worthless, especially if you have a family history of a problem. I also haven't paid for a Blackstone but with some engines prone to certain problems, like the S54 (the family history) and it's rod bearings that have shown to wear through, finding the problem before there is a problem has value. We have seen engines following the manufacturers recommendations still have problems, especially regularly tracked cars.

Based on what I have seen from reading basically every S65 and S85 thread here and on M5board, I am skeptical that even a 100% complete Blackstone history will let you know if/when you need to replace rod bearings, even with earlier production bearings containing lead.

I certainly wouldn't rely on low / consistent lead levels and conclude you don't need to swap out your bearings at high mileage or something. Without a detailed analysis of their methods, it's just a guess. For example, factors that matter could include what kind/size of particulates the rod bearing wear produces and how it interacts with the filter media.