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      01-28-2024, 10:04 AM   #1
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A caution for those with Millway Camber plates

I took off my Millway Camber plates when I switched to coilovers with Vorshlag camber plates and I noticed that several of the T nuts were bent. It looks like it was over torqued when I had the alignment done.
If you use Millways with your stock or HAS suspension then make sure your alignment guy uses the correct torque.
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      01-28-2024, 11:21 AM   #2
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      03-02-2024, 06:58 PM   #3
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sheesh surprised they didn't snap the bolt. My guess is they used an impact on them. I just looked at my Millways today while I had them out doing my Ohlins R&T. Nothing like that but I notice that they do not slide as freely as they used to either. Pretty tough to adjust the camber.
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      03-07-2024, 04:27 PM   #4
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That’s a poorly designed camber plate. All of the vertical load (preload + % of applied load carried by the bolt) is reacted by two small flanges with the load distributed over a small area. Puts both flanges of the flanged nut in pure bending (acts like a cantilevered beam) + transverse shear. Not surprised to see it fail that way. Over-preloading may have contributed to the failure but it wasn’t all due to preload.
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      03-08-2024, 10:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M3SQRD View Post
That’s a poorly designed camber plate. All of the vertical load (preload + % of applied load carried by the bolt) is reacted by two small flanges with the load distributed over a small area. Puts both flanges of the flanged nut in pure bending (acts like a cantilevered beam) + transverse shear. Not surprised to see it fail that way. Over-preloading may have contributed to the failure but it wasn’t all due to preload.
I don't disagree with you at all. Worse yet- if the flange nut is half way through the slot then the load area is miniscule. If someone chooses to run millways I would recommend setting the camber on the plates all the way so that the marker on the top is at 20 and then have your alignment shop dial in what you need using the stock lower camber adjustments.
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      03-08-2024, 11:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZPD View Post
I don't disagree with you at all. Worse yet- if the flange nut is half way through the slot then the load area is miniscule. If someone chooses to run millways I would recommend setting the camber on the plates all the way so that the marker on the top is at 20 and then have your alignment shop dial in what you need using the stock lower camber adjustments.
In the 30+ years of tracking, this is one of the worst I’ve ever seen. There were some poor designs in the 90s! On Millway’s, the worst part is you can’t easily see it (unless you remove the wheel, stick your head past the brake rotor with a flashlight and look up) but there could be one failed.. then two failed…then three failed…strut lets go midcorner. Anyone using these better be inspecting them very frequently and, if you track your car, between every session.
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      03-10-2024, 05:39 PM   #7
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Well I got stung by the Millway Camber plates this weekend.

I made a video about it. Basically after the Ohlins install it was very difficult to adjust the camber and one of the tower bolts wouldn't torque.

I did some research to figure out the torque on these things. I really feel like they need to include new high quality hardware. The factory bolts are torque to yield so technically they shouldn't be loosened and retorqued without replacement.

The stock torque is 29nm and then turn 90 degrees. I am reusing the stock bolts. So when I torqued the first time using this, it 'felt' too much based on my wrenching experience.

Fast forward. I happened to have a set of Millway Uniball Camber plates and was like, well this is a good time to swap and I will rethink this torque spec.

Well bad news. Can't use the Uniball plates with the Ohlins. Millway includes a couple adapters for two different shaft diameters. The Ohlins includes an adapter that is designed to fit into the stock strut hat. The Uniball diameter is not the same as stock.

So, I decided to harvest parts from the Uniball plates to get up and running.

Regarding torque. I have settled on 50nm torque. I will be monitoring this at the track to see if the camber moves and/or bolts start to loosen.

The video shows basically the bad part and what I did to fix it.

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      03-10-2024, 08:15 PM   #8
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GenXG87 Sorry that you are going through this. I had lots of problems trying to get the millways to work with my coilovers and wound up getting the Vorshlag. I had Vorshlag on my previous car and should have gone that route in the first place. Just so you don't repeat the same mistakes that I made- Millways will not work with 2.5" or 2.25" springs. I had Millway make me adapters (before I knew that the flanged nuts were damaged) and it just creates too much stack height. I had less than an inch of suspension travel.
Another plus for Vorshlag is that they are in Texas. Millway is in Sweden so you might have a delay in response and of course, shipping will be high.
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      03-11-2024, 02:57 PM   #9
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As far as I can tell the Millway fittings for clamping the camber plate are M8. Assuming they are non-stretch bolts that are either class 10.9 or 12.9, the maximum torque to avoid fitting damage is 33Nm for 10.9 and 40Nm for 12.9 bolts, based on the torque table Millway provide: https://www.millway.se/atdragningsmoment.
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      03-12-2024, 08:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
As far as I can tell the Millway fittings for clamping the camber plate are M8. Assuming they are non-stretch bolts that are either class 10.9 or 12.9, the maximum torque to avoid fitting damage is 33Nm for 10.9 and 40Nm for 12.9 bolts, based on the torque table Millway provide: https://www.millway.se/atdragningsmoment.
I looked at that too. This is easily addressed by them providing bolts for their camber plates and torque specs.

I've looked at bolt options. I haven't been able to find a 12.9 e torx bolt. I can get hex socket cap screws.

Most likely will be switching to Vorshlag since the Millway uniball will require a different adapter for the Ohlins shock and not being able to change to 2.25 or 2.5 spring.
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      03-12-2024, 08:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZPD View Post
GenXG87 Sorry that you are going through this. I had lots of problems trying to get the millways to work with my coilovers and wound up getting the Vorshlag. I had Vorshlag on my previous car and should have gone that route in the first place. Just so you don't repeat the same mistakes that I made- Millways will not work with 2.5" or 2.25" springs. I had Millway make me adapters (before I knew that the flanged nuts were damaged) and it just creates too much stack height. I had less than an inch of suspension travel.
Another plus for Vorshlag is that they are in Texas. Millway is in Sweden so you might have a delay in response and of course, shipping will be high.
Dang. I appreciate the info. I think that is what I'm going to do. I know their spec options even ask for what strut so I feel comfortable knowing the fitment will work.
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      03-22-2024, 11:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenXG87 View Post
Well I got stung by the Millway Camber plates this weekend.

I made a video about it. Basically after the Ohlins install it was very difficult to adjust the camber and one of the tower bolts wouldn't torque.

I did some research to figure out the torque on these things. I really feel like they need to include new high quality hardware. The factory bolts are torque to yield so technically they shouldn't be loosened and retorqued without replacement.

The stock torque is 29nm and then turn 90 degrees. I am reusing the stock bolts. So when I torqued the first time using this, it 'felt' too much based on my wrenching experience.

Fast forward. I happened to have a set of Millway Uniball Camber plates and was like, well this is a good time to swap and I will rethink this torque spec.

Well bad news. Can't use the Uniball plates with the Ohlins. Millway includes a couple adapters for two different shaft diameters. The Ohlins includes an adapter that is designed to fit into the stock strut hat. The Uniball diameter is not the same as stock.

So, I decided to harvest parts from the Uniball plates to get up and running.

Regarding torque. I have settled on 50nm torque. I will be monitoring this at the track to see if the camber moves and/or bolts start to loosen.

The video shows basically the bad part and what I did to fix it.

Thank you for the informative post. Can you let me know which spring diameter (2.25, 2.5, 60mm or stock/sport spring?) I should pick for the Vorshlag? I am on Ohlins R/T.
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      03-23-2024, 05:28 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinG87 View Post
Thank you for the informative post. Can you let me know which spring diameter (2.25, 2.5, 60mm or stock/sport spring?) I should pick for the Vorshlag? I am on Ohlins R/T.
My new Vorshlag plates are arriving this week. This is what I got coming. At some point I may change out the springs and perches for a 2.5” spring setup.
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      03-23-2024, 09:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenXG87 View Post
My new Vorshlag plates are arriving this week. This is what I got coming. At some point I may change out the springs and perches for a 2.5” spring setup.
Can you do a detail review and fitment? I really want to go with your setup.
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      03-24-2024, 10:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinG87 View Post
Can you do a detail review and fitment? I really want to go with your setup.
Sure thing. I’ll do my best to get some good pics. Not sure if I’ll have time to get it on a lift so it may be floor jacks and jack stands to swap them out.
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      10-25-2024, 08:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GenXG87 View Post
Sure thing. I’ll do my best to get some good pics. Not sure if I’ll have time to get it on a lift so it may be floor jacks and jack stands to swap them out.
Any review on the vorshlag? I hear they make clicking noise but want to hear from your experience?

I'm between these or millway or groundcontrol
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