[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by Pentland

Ask your mum.
Jeeze, some of you guys have no sense of humour.

I did. She referred me to yours and after it become apparent you might be my progeny I let it drop. Call me daddy.

[OriginalFake]

Originally Posted by CarPoor

Jerk! Trade you manuals? I’d be happy with 0w30. Is it LL 12FE or LL01FE?

LL-12 FE and LL-17 FE+ is what I see.

[MPR]

Can anyone weigh in on the below oils? I'm due for an oil change and know nothing about oil. I'm in NJ where it's 60+ for the next 4-5 months.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428092620kt1

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428583898-lm

Castrol Edge Euro 5W-30 A3/B4 European Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quarts https://a.co/d/1Skzyzv

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by MPR

Can anyone weigh in on the below oils? I'm due for an oil change and know nothing about oil. I'm in NJ where it's 60+ for the next 4-5 months.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428092620kt1

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...11428583898-lm

Castrol Edge Euro 5W-30 A3/B4 European Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quarts https://a.co/d/1Skzyzv

If you’re ok with the SAPS go with the Castrol.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

https://a.co/d/3zwhoUP

https://a.co/d/dPwFofJ

Is that the correct filter? Amazon says it doesn't fit the m240.

This one Amazon says fits: https://a.co/d/ct9brFD

I'm considering getting 2 x 5-quart jugs, instead of buying the individual 2 quarts each time. Next time around I'll only need a 5.

Where do you live where you run it year round? Likely safe year round in NJ I guess given the coldest it gets rarely dips below 0F.
https://a.co/d/3zwhoUP

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by MPR

Is that the correct filter? Amazon says it doesn't fit the m240.

This one Amazon says fits: https://a.co/d/ct9brFD

I'm considering getting 2 x 5-quart jugs, instead of buying the individual 2 quarts each time. Next time around I'll only need a 5.

Where do you live where you run it year round? Likely safe year round in NJ I guess given the coldest it gets rarely dips below 0F.
https://a.co/d/3zwhoUP

That's scary! The link I provided on 4/28 was the correct filter, I remember clicking on the link to confirm. Now it's NOT the correct filter! I edited my original message and typed in the correct filter:

Mann HU 6022z

I also buy two of the 5-qt jugs at a time, and keep a qt in the trunk for road trips.

I live in North Texas, and if you never/seldom dip below 0F you'll be WAY MORE THAN FINE with this oil.

[MPR]

Sorry to beat this to death, but did anyone send their 0w20 for an analysis to determine if it is actually bad to use?

I used it (Mobil1 0w20) for 200K no miles in my Subaru and it still runs strong. Granted, the B58 motor is double the power and turbo. Just want to make the right call as I know nothing about oils, unfortunately.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by MPR

Sorry to beat this to death, but did anyone send their 0w20 for an analysis to determine if it is actually bad to use?

I used it (Mobil1 0w20) for 200K no miles in my Subaru and it still runs strong. Granted, the B58 motor is double the power and turbo. Just want to make the right call as I know nothing about oils, unfortunately.

With modern synthetics buy ANYTHING YOU WANT and you'll be fine with 7k-10k mile OCI's. Bet it would be very hard to find an engine failure from the 10's of millions of cars on the road that's purely the fault of the oil.

BMW is not going to offer a warranty if 0w20 didn't protect the engine. But just because it protects doesn't mean it's the best choice. No one's going to convince me that BMW recommended 0w20 because hands-down it provided the most superior protection for the engine. It was a compromise between protection and CAFE ratings in an effort to boost the brand's fleet-wide MPG average to avoid government fines. I prefer to skip the compromise and go for the better protection a slightly higher viscosity (30 or 40) provides in a performance oriented engine with a turbo (high heat), especially with 7k-12k mile OCI's that are becoming quite common.

Somewhere I mentioned I changed my oil at around 2,400 miles for the first time and the 0w20 was literally as thin as water, which is great for low friction and (ever-so-slightly) increased MPG.

[OriginalFake]

By the way, in case anyone was curious about what the online manual shows for my 2023 M240i and the oil weights and types...I shared this with another forum member but I figured it was worth sharing here as well.

View post on imgur.com

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by OriginalFake

By the way, in case anyone was curious about what the online manual shows for my 2023 M240i and the oil weights and types...I shared this with another forum member but I figured it was worth sharing here as well.

View post on imgur.com

Thank you for this. I’ll take pictures of mine only referencing 0w20 for giggles, but I’m going to use ll12FE+ and push for it in my comp’d oil changes.

[XC3LLR8]

Keep in mind that 0w is simply recommended to cover any winter temps on the 3rd rock from the sun. This keeps the recommendation simple for car manufactures, but it's not the ideal viscosity in warmer weather regions.

If you don't live somewhere that gets colder than -22F and you're using 0w, then you're using oil too thin for cold starts. If 0w was ideal for all temps on cold starts, then what's the point of oil manufacturers making 5w and 10w?

[OriginalFake]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

Keep in mind that 0w is simply recommended to cover any winter temps on the 3rd rock from the sun. This keeps the recommendation simple for car manufactures, but it's not the ideal viscosity in warmer weather regions.

If you don't live somewhere that gets colder than -22F and you're using 0w, then you're using oil too thin for cold starts. If 0w was ideal for all temps on cold starts, then what's the point of oil manufacturers making 5w and 10w?

I mean, there are obviously the CAFE rating benefit things too but you'd think it would be simple enough to put the temperature range stuff in the manual, right?

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by OriginalFake

I mean, there are obviously the CAFE rating benefit things too but you'd think it would be simple enough to put the temperature range stuff in the manual, right?

I've had cars with an owner's manual that shows the temp ranges. But you're right, I don't recall seeing it in the M240 manual, and it would be very helpful.

[SammyAlipour]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

Keep in mind that 0w is simply recommended to cover any winter temps on the 3rd rock from the sun. This keeps the recommendation simple for car manufactures, but it's not the ideal viscosity in warmer weather regions.

If you don't live somewhere that gets colder than -22F and you're using 0w, then you're using oil too thin for cold starts. If 0w was ideal for all temps on cold starts, then what's the point of oil manufacturers making 5w and 10w?

This is not correct. There’s an amazing website to read about oils and I’ll attach it here:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/

Basically, even at 0w, the viscosity of the oil is still too high but it’s better than 5w. This is why you hear people say that starting a cold car is the most wearing thing on the engine. The technology for viscosity modifiers is amazing these days and there is no reason to run 5w based on this article.

[XC3LLR8]

Originally Posted by SammyAlipour

This is not correct. There’s an amazing website to read about oils and I’ll attach it here:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-102/

Basically, even at 0w, the viscosity of the oil is still too high but it’s better than 5w. This is why you hear people say that starting a cold car is the most wearing thing on the engine. The technology for viscosity modifiers is amazing these days and there is no reason to run 5w based on this article.

The chart you used to make your comment is comparing 0w to 10w at 75F. The specs for 0w vs 5w at 75F are going to be much closer. At that temp it is really splitting hairs. And for many of us, "cold" starts in the summer are often 90F to 100+F.

Also, the larger the spread between the Xw and the YY, the more complex the additive package. Ideally, this spread will be minimized.

Ironically, the author of the article you referenced uses a 5w oil.

[SammyAlipour]

Originally Posted by XC3LLR8

The chart you used to make your comment is comparing 0w to 10w at 75F. The specs for 0w vs 5w at 75F are going to be much closer. At that temp it is really splitting hairs. And for many of us, "cold" starts in the summer are often 90F to 100+F.

Also, the larger the spread between the Xw and the YY, the more complex the additive package. Ideally, this spread will be minimized.

Ironically, the author of the article you referenced uses a 5w oil.

My comment was in response to you claiming that 0w is too thin for cold starts. The article states that 0w is still too thick for a wear free cold start. In this scenario, 5w would be even more wearing than 0w. Also, viscosity modifiers are so advanced now that a 0w oil can still function as well as a 5w oil at operating temperatures as long as you’re changing your oil at the proper intervals.

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by CarPoor

Thank you for this. I’ll take pictures of mine only referencing 0w20 for giggles, but I’m going to use ll12FE+ and push for it in my comp’d oil changes.

Here's an image from the PC available manual from https://www.bmwusa.com/owners-manuals.html.

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by SammyAlipour

My comment was in response to you claiming that 0w is too thin for cold starts. The article states that 0w is still too thick for a wear free cold start. In this scenario, 5w would be even more wearing than 0w. Also, viscosity modifiers are so advanced now that a 0w oil can still function as well as a 5w oil at operating temperatures as long as you’re changing your oil at the proper intervals.

That motor oil 102 article has been debunked by actual industry experts participating on BITOG ad nauseam. 0w isn't going to offer any material cold flow benefit over, say 5w, until lower than -22F/-30C. The only reason BMW and the other OEM's are recommending 0w is for dynamic viscosity planning for the temporary shear rate of the polymers typically in higher quantity in 0w oils versus 5w or 10w oils. For HTHS you will almost always get a heavier/higher viscosity and more protective oil film with a 5w versus a 0w assuming the second number (0w30 vs 5w30 ACEA A1 or A3 for example) are of the same grade.

[SammyAlipour]

Originally Posted by CarPoor

That motor oil 102 article has been debunked by actual industry experts participating on BITOG ad nauseam. 0w isn't going to offer any material cold flow benefit over, say 5w, until lower than -22F/-30C. The only reason BMW and the other OEM's are recommending 0w is for dynamic viscosity planning for the temporary shear rate of the polymers typically in higher quantity in 0w oils versus 5w or 10w oils. For HTHS you will almost always get a heavier/higher viscosity and more protective oil film with a 5w versus a 0w assuming the second number (0w30 vs 5w30 ACEA A1 or A3 for example) are of the same grade.

I appreciate your input! Do you have a source for the debunk? A link to the article or video you are referring to? Thank you.

[MPR]

CarPoor , you seem to know your oils. What are your thoughts on 0w20 vs 0w30 vs 5w30 for the B58 in climates that range from 60F to 100F?

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by SammyAlipour

I appreciate your input! Do you have a source for the debunk? A link to the article or video you are referring to? Thank you.

No articles. Just discussion from users like Molakule, Son of Joe, Solarent(sp?) Shannow and a couple of others. You’ll have to find them and sift through there posts. Probably no further back than 6 years ago though. These users are formulators and mechanical engineers and I’ve met one of them over the years while in passing through Iowa.

[CarPoor]

Originally Posted by MPR

CarPoor , you seem to know your oils. What are your thoughts on 0w20 vs 0w30 vs 5w30 for the B58 in climates that range from 60F to 100F?

Easily fine with 5w30 or 5w40. Would even been fine with 10w30 or 10w40 if one wanted. 10w won’t approach the pumping viscosity of 0w at -35C until around -18C. There aren’t a lot of sexy 10w’s except maybe Motul 300V or Redline though, but hey, if one wants to be different. I’d just use an ACEA A3/B4 5w30 unless you have concerns about LSPI, in which case I’d run an ACEA C3 5w30. These will have a HTHS close to a 0w40 or 5w40 so more than adequate high temperature and high performance protection. Castrol makes one of each of these and they are readily available at a decent price.