[DailyDownshift]

Originally Posted by M2siast

You can code out ASD now in our cars, so if you have the option and don't want someone doing it for you, you can do it yourself.

Didn't know this, how can you do it yourself?

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by Daily Downshift

Didn't know this, how can you do it yourself?

If you go to BimmerCode, and try to code it out, it’ll tell you you have to scroll down and deactivate a “code”. When you do that, it works. It’s one of those little disclaimer messages we never read!

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by TheDrivenGarage

Is Bimertech now going to include the bracket? I was thinking about ordering during the BF sale but the page says no bracket is available? Do you know when they will start offering the bracket?

Yes, I hear the bracket is coming available this week, though confirm for sure.

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by Daily Downshift

So I initially thought the HK sound system sounded pretty solid when I first got the car, but a few audiophiles told me it was pretty trash. Since then I've been pretty critical of it when listening to different genres. Over time I slowly noticed how compressed the audio is at higher volumes and the general lack of any punch in the bass and lows. The highs also get quite screechy and just harsh on your eyes if you play them at higher volumes. So thanks audiophiles, you've ruined my G87's HK system lmao

Anyways, I partnered with BimmerTech to build a prototype bracket for their aftermarket amplifier (alpha one amp) that fits well in the trunk of our G87's. After a few months of test fitting we came up with a solid solution and one that doesn't require any serious modifications. The bracket of the amp sits flat in the lower left pocket of the trunk (right underneath the stock audio RAM and booster module). It's bolted down using two OEM screws that stick up from under the chassis (very convenient for us). BimmerTech supplies a plug n play harness and power cables. The plug n play harness goes from the amplifier to the RAM and booster module while the power cables go from the amplifier to the battery in the middle of the trunk. One cable to the negative and one to the positive. All and all a quick 10-20 minute install if you're somewhat competent working with push pins, screws and trim pieces.

The after sound difference is honestly quite shocking. The very first thing I noticed was that the volume was much louder without needing to turn the dial of the volume any higher. I think this is because the amp just pushes more juice to the factory HK speakers. In terms of sound quality, the first thing you notice is the hard hitting bass. It's similar to when you're at a concert and the bass travels through your chest, super hard hitting. Additionally, at higher volumes the compressed and harsh sounding highs are completely gone and it's silky smooth even when playing music at a very high volume. Even excluding the powerful bass, overall there seems to be a lot more depth to the lows, mids and highs. The best way I can describe it is like listening to music on your headphones, then going to the concert in person. The music just resonates differently in your body and it makes a physical impact. With the stock unit I always felt like I wanted to play the music louder, but it never really had an impact. Now I struggle to find the need to play the music at higher than 55% of the volume capacity with this new amplifier because it's loud enough.

I initially thought the HK system was a 7/10 because of my lack of sound system experience. After seeing the massive room for improvement though, the stock system went down to a 4 while the upgrade was a 9/10. It sounds so good now that I don't foresee anyone NEEDING more from their cars audio system unless you're a top 1% audiophile. With that being said though, BimmerTech does have speakers and woofers that are supposedly even better than the HK in our cars. I can't imagine this 9/10 sound going to 10/10 or beyond, but maybe I'll be in for a treat once those get installed on my car

This upgrade has got me thinking more about the fidelity of my audio in general. I recently swapped from spotify to loseless apple music, definitely noticed a subtle difference there in clarity. (Nowhere near the difference that upgrading amplifiers made though). I've also upgrade headphones and got the new airpods pro 2 (they're surprisingly good, especially noise cancellation). So this taste in fine audio has got me spending more bucks in other sound related areas of my life lol

Not an audiophile by any stretch of the imagination but this has definitely opened my eyes. If ya'll have any questions, feel free to shoot them my way!

Attachment 3323750Attachment 3323751Attachment 3323752

Here's the video of the install and a before/after, microphone doesn't do it justice but with headphones you can hear the characteristics of the new sound:

Keep up the great work and well done! My A1s are in and the amp will be in soon behind them.

[DailyDownshift]

Originally Posted by BMW DIY Guy

Keep up the great work and well done! My A1s are in and the amp will be in soon behind them.

Thanks, how big of a difference did the speakers make on the overall sound quality?

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by Daily Downshift

Thanks, how big of a difference did the speakers make on the overall sound quality?

Very much so, especially noticeable in the mid range and subs. They still need some break in and will just improve over time, but substantial improvement

[Rx-7ames]

Originally Posted by M2siast

If you go to BimmerCode, and try to code it out, it’ll tell you you have to scroll down and deactivate a “code”. When you do that, it works. It’s one of those little disclaimer messages we never read!

This took me forever to figure out. It is different on Android apparently. You have to click on the Receiver Audio Module tab, but you don't scroll down. You click the three dots on the top right. That opens a menu for the activation codes. Then you can deactivate the ACD code. Why make is so complicated?

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by Rx-7ames

This took me forever to figure out. It is different on Android apparently. You have to click on the Receiver Audio Module tab, but you don't scroll down. You click the three dots on the top right. That opens a menu for the activation codes. Then you can deactivate the ACD code. Why make is so complicated?

I know, right! LOL
How do you feel without the ASD on? I coded it back in…

[Rx-7ames]

Originally Posted by M2siast

I know, right! LOL
How do you feel without the ASD on? I coded it back in…

I know some people like it but I have no interest in it. I usually turn on M1 while driving in town to get some nice exhaust tones. Then when I start my highway commute I turn M1 off and cruise control on.

I am more inclined get one of those remotes that allow me to open the exhaust individually. One day I may upgrade the exhaust and intake for more noise.

But I have zero interest in ASD. I just don't like it. I know it's fake and that bothers me.

[baj_baj]

There it is! Going in this weekend

[DailyDownshift]

Originally Posted by baj_baj

There it is! Going in this weekend

Beautiful! Love the engraving they added for the bracket. Let us know how you like it.

[baj_baj]

So the amp is in. The install was super simple, all done in under an hour. The only small problem was with the bracket, it wasn't fitting perfectly so I had to drill out the holes a bit, but no big deal.

Now the sound... It isn't as dramatic of an improvement as I expected it to be. Don't get me wrong, you can definitely hear it, but you can also quickly hear where the HK amp starts falling apart. I'm now hunting for the DSP software so I can try playing with the EQ and the amp gain and then give my final verdict.

[LCDRJohn]

Originally Posted by baj_baj

So the amp is in. The install was super simple, all done in under an hour. The only small problem was with the bracket, it wasn't fitting perfectly so I had to drill out the holes a bit, but no big deal.

Now the sound... It isn't as dramatic of an improvement as I expected it to be. Don't get me wrong, you can definitely hear it, but you can also quickly hear where the HK amp starts falling apart. I'm now hunting for the DSP software so I can try playing with the EQ and the amp gain and then give my final verdict.

I'd love to mess around with the time alignment and see if we could get a better soundstage. Keep us posted!!
Thank you!

[Coconut]

It would interesting to know if the Alpha One (Audio Fischer Match 10) is taking the pure low level signals directly from the HU (bypassing the HK amp) or taking the high level outputs after the HK amp. I think it’s the latter so basically you are taking your source signal, applying HK DSP, HK converting to analog, amplifying, then taking that high level signal, converting it back to digital, applying Alpha One DSP, converting back to analog then amplyfing it. Really not ideal but perhaps the overall sound is better because you’re pushing more power. The DSP is good but it can only do so much. Who knows what high/low pass filters and volume db boost the stock HK amp does.

[baj_baj]

Originally Posted by Coconut

It would interesting to know if the Alpha One (Audio Fischer Match 10) is taking the pure low level signals directly from the HU (bypassing the HK amp) or taking the high level outputs after the HK amp. I think it’s the latter so basically you are taking your source signal, applying HK DSP, HK converting to analog, amplifying, then taking that high level signal, converting it back to digital, applying Alpha One DSP, converting back to analog then amplyfing it. Really not ideal but perhaps the overall sound is better because you’re pushing more power. The DSP is good but it can only do so much. Who knows what high/low pass filters and volume db boost the stock HK amp does.

I think it might be taking the high level output because it shows the same sound character and all the faults of the HK amp. You get too much bass on low volume and when you turn it up it all gets messed up and flat.
The sound quality is better, but still problematic because of that imbalance, everything sounds quite busy. What's also bit disappointing, it still can't touch the clarity, loudness and pure power of the B&O system that I have in the Audi.
The recommended settings for the iDrive is to put everything on flat, and let the DSP do the work. But I don't know if my amp came without any tuning or what's going on, because it sounds extremely flat. You have to mess with the iDrive EQ to get anything out of it, and then you start amplifying all the HK faults, what's probably causing all the issues. As soon as I get the time, I have to look into it in more detail.
It might also be the problem that the amp is tuned, but for Bimmertech speakers and just doesn't work well with the stock system.

[DailyDownshift]

Just recently installed Bimmertechs full speaker system for the car. In combination with the amp it's quite the transformation. I'm not an audiophile at all but the sound has been drastically improved across the board. Much more power, much more bass, feels like there is a proper soundstage. Added clarity and clearer highs as well, not so scratchy sounding on the ears anymore.

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by Daily Downshift

Just recently installed Bimmertechs full speaker system for the car. In combination with the amp it's quite the transformation. I'm not an audiophile at all but the sound has been drastically improved across the board. Much more power, much more bass, feels like there is a proper soundstage. Added clarity and clearer highs as well, not so scratchy sounding on the ears anymore.

I couldn't agree more and it makes a huge difference. I can help folks source the gear too if you want it.

[baj_baj]

So, a bit of a late update. I was on holidays for weeks and didn't really play with the DSP, but found an interesting behaviour. On the cars flat EQ setting it was just too flat, and adjusting the EQ in a traditional way made everything worse. But if you start lowering the EQ below flat, for example, if you want to raise the lows and highs, you do that by lowering the mids, so the curve is always under 0. This made the amp sound waaaay better and because of some processing on the DSP it raised the power output considerably. Now it actually sounds quite good!
My theory is that there is some loudness compensation in the DSP, and the lower the input from the HK amp, the more the Alpha has a chance to pump out clean sound on loud volume.

[Lagunatic]

Would the speakers upgrade alone be a huge improvement to clarity you guys think?

[DailyDownshift]

Originally Posted by baj_baj

So, a bit of a late update. I was on holidays for weeks and didn't really play with the DSP, but found an interesting behaviour. On the cars flat EQ setting it was just too flat, and adjusting the EQ in a traditional way made everything worse. But if you start lowering the EQ below flat, for example, if you want to raise the lows and highs, you do that by lowering the mids, so the curve is always under 0. This made the amp sound waaaay better and because of some processing on the DSP it raised the power output considerably. Now it actually sounds quite good!
My theory is that there is some loudness compensation in the DSP, and the lower the input from the HK amp, the more the Alpha has a chance to pump out clean sound on loud volume.

Can you a pic of what settings you have that made it sound much better for you? Curious if I'll be able to get even more out of it with some tuning.

[BlueMyself]

Is this a viable upgrade if you have the HiFi and not the H&K system?

[BMW DIY Guy]

Originally Posted by BlueMyself

Is this a viable upgrade if you have the HiFi and not the H&K system?

Absolutely yes, shoot me a message I can help.