[MASHCT]

The dust and squeal finally got the better of me - I really thought "it can't be as bad as folks are saying." Well... yes, yes it can.

I swapped the (so far) OEM front brake pads for the iSweep 1500s over lunch today. Holy crap that was so easy, I'll never pay for a brake job again.

Hardest part was removing and putting back the wear sensor. It is a VERY tight fit.

It takes longer to remove the wheel than it does to actually swap the pads.

I saw on another guy's post you're supposed to change the nuts - they're one-time use. So I gotta order those and put them on and the fronts'll be all finished.

Onto the rear pass now. Gotta read JABCAT's DIY post. I read it's the bee's knees. I'll post back once I get them on, probably this weekend.

[MASHCT]

The hardest part of installing the rears was that it was crazy hot & humid here in CT today. Ridiculous...

The rear install was as easy as the front. I got around the e-brake by starting the car, releasing the e-brake & removing the caliper (after removing the bolts.) Crazy easy, no special tools needed.

Oddly, the OEMs look like they have a plate or shim mounted to the back plate. It does not come off. The iSweeps do not have this, nor do they come with any kind of plate/shim to use. They do come with copper anti-sieze grease.

Gotta order new bolts for the caliper though as the originals are one use only. If you reuse, you will need to clean off the thread lock with a wire brush and apply new.

Gonna wash the car & wheels tomorrow - looking forward to lower dust splatter all over my gorgeous wheels.

Drove the car around today. Loved how quiet these are compared to my super noisy OEM pads. Yes, these are new, but the quiet braking was nice. Yes, initial bite is not equivalent to OEM pads, but you're talking about Coke vs Pepsi type comparison. These pads super-smoothly stop the car. I prefer that compared to super grabby OEM initial bite, if I'm honest.

Don't fear the rears. You can install them yourself, very easily.

Sound the cowbell.

[fanofbmwe46]

What’s the part number on the one time use bolts and how many are needed?

What’s the main difference between Isweep 1500 and 2000?

[LAGWAGN]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

What’s the part number on the one time use bolts and how many are needed?

What’s the main difference between Isweep 1500 and 2000?

Rear bolts: Part #34-20-6-850-560 (I paid ~$4 per)

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

What’s the part number on the one time use bolts and how many are needed?

What’s the main difference between Isweep 1500 and 2000?

The main difference for the 2000 series is I think the 2000 is more track oriented. Still not a full track pad, but a better pad for more aggressive track shenanigans than the 1500. It dusts more than the 1500. Something like if the 1500 are 95% less dust the 2000 are 70% less (than OEM).

It's really tough to decipher which bolt it is from the parts diagram as they actually don't show the bolt in the position where it goes. But I am pretty sure it's part #34-10-8-838-589 because it's a torx bolt for the rear brake caliper & the bolts I removed were torx bolts (even though you can use a wrench to remove them, too.)

I have the blue caliper brakes, by the way.

Product details:

SKU: 34-10-8-838-589
Positions: Rear
Other Names: Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate Bolt, Caliper Support Bolt, Carrier Bolt, Torx Screw With Washer 889520
Description:
Torx Screw with Washer (M12X1,5X43 ZNS3). Disc Brake Caliper Bracket Mounting Bolt.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by LAGWAGN

Rear bolts: Part #34-20-6-850-560 (I paid ~$4 per)

I think this is the one for the red brake caliper (?) These are the details from the product description:

SKU: 34-20-6-850-560
Positions: Rear, Left, Right, Front
Other Names: Disc Brake Caliper Pin Bolt, Brake Pads Bolt, Carrier Mount Bolt, Guide, Hex Bolt 889520
Description:
Without m sport brakes. With m model. Exc. For Blue Painted Caliper.
Notes: Included with brake pads.

[LAGWAGN]

That should be the part # for all US-spec cars. Unless I’m missing something the ‘red’ and ‘blue’ calipers are the exact same color is the only difference.

Either way, I can say with 100% certainty those are the bolts needed for the rear ‘red’ calipers.

[fanofbmwe46]

Anyone know if this is actually the right part number for the one time use nuts

34112284399

Is the bolt, the nut, or both supposed to be one time use??

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

Anyone know if this is actually the right part number for the one time use nuts

34112284399

Is the bolt, the nut, or both supposed to be one time use??

It is the correct part. The stud that it screws on to doesn’t need to be replaced.

[fanofbmwe46]

Originally Posted by aerobod

It is the correct part. The stud that it screws on to doesn’t need to be replaced.

Thanks. So the other part numbers referenced are not needed / not one time use?

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

Thanks. So the other part numbers referenced are not needed / not one time use?

If you are not swapping out a completely worn set of pads or removing the rotor, the other part numbers for wear sensor and rotor securing screw are not needed.

[BroDoze]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

The hardest part of installing the rears was that it was crazy hot & humid here in CT today. Ridiculous...

The rear install was as easy as the front. I got around the e-brake by starting the car, releasing the e-brake & removing the caliper (after removing the bolts.) Crazy easy, no special tools needed.

Oddly, the OEMs look like they have a plate or shim mounted to the back plate. It does not come off. The iSweeps do not have this, nor do they come with any kind of plate/shim to use. They do come with copper anti-sieze grease.

Gotta order new bolts for the caliper though as the originals are one use only. If you reuse, you will need to clean off the thread lock with a wire brush and apply new.

Thanks for the info. I was going to pay my PDI tech to swap before taking delivery. This sounds easy. Some questions:
1. How many total bolts/nuts do I need to order for F+R? Part numbers for all?
2. When you say you started the car to be able to release the e-brake to release the (loosened) caliper, did you then shut the car off right after you pulled off the caliper? Did the car re-enable the e-brake upon shut-off? Did you have to start it again and release the e-brake to put the rear caliper(s) back in?
3. Did you have to remove the brake fluid cap before all this work? Did you need to use caliper spreaders?
4. Is it pretty clear which surfaces need the lube applied? Any way to show what surfaces need to be lubricated?

I do all sorts of work on cars, but I generally don’t mess with brakes!

Thanks!

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Thanks for the info. I was going to pay my PDI tech to swap before taking delivery. This sounds easy. Some questions:
1. How many total bolts/nuts do I need to order for F+R? Part numbers for all?

You need 4 bolts for the rears. The front bolts are not single use. I can't confirm the part # until my new bolts arrive.

2. When you say you started the car to be able to release the e-brake to release the (loosened) caliper, did you then shut the car off right after you pulled off the caliper?

I left the car running. You don't need to start the car until you're ready to actually remove the caliper. Be sure to use a jack stand & wheel chocks.

I did check what would happen if I shut the car off - the e-brake does not reengage. DO NOT reengage the parking brake until you have reinstalled everything & tightened the bolts.

Did the car re-enable the e-brake upon shut-off? No.

Did you have to start it again and release the e-brake to put the rear caliper(s) back in? No.

Note that you may get a parking brake error. If you do, once you're finished, just engage & disengage the parking brake. It will reset.


3. Did you have to remove the brake fluid cap before all this work? Did you need to use caliper spreaders?

No on both. Because I used the "car running - disengage the e-brake" the pistons pulled back. My car is only a month old - brakes are basically new.

4. Is it pretty clear which surfaces need the lube applied? Yes, you're putting lube on the back of the plate - not the brake pads themselves. Put the copper grease on edges of the backing plate so the pads don't seize in the calipers. Don't touch the pad faces with greasy fingers.

Any way to show what surfaces need to be lubricated? Not now as the pads are installed, but you'll readily see where the grease needs to go.

I do all sorts of work on cars, but I generally don’t mess with brakes!

Thanks!

I inserted my answers after each of your questions above.

This is so easy, you'll kick yourself if you EVER pay someone to change your pads, rotors or calipers, really. Use the pros for a problem you can't determine or fix you really can't do. The pads become immediately loose & are literally slide out, slide in.

Tools you will need and/or make the job easier.

Have a caliper spreader ready in case you need it. Buy one, but don't open it. Chances are if your pads are newish, you won't need a caliper spreader.

Buy a container of brake pad grease. Buy a small container or squeeze tube - a little goes a LONG way.

You need a 14mm socket for the bolt & a 17mm crescent wrench to hold the nut still while you loosen & tighten the bolt. This nut is thin as is the space available around the nut; an adjustable wrench will not work.

You need a tube of thread lock, blue.

Get a small torque wrench as you have very little room to use one to torque the bolts to the proper setting (25 foot lbs + 90 deg. I found this info in another post.) The front bolts are torqued to 70 ft lbs. I bought the ACDelco ARM601-3 3/8” (3.7 to 37 ft-lbs.) It's only 12" long.

There is a pretty helpful youtube video showing how to remove & install the rears, but this guy does not use a torque wrench, doesn't even mention the proper torque. He also doesn't use any thread lock. Because he doesn't use the "car running" trick, he removes the e-brake motor & uses caliper spreaders.

Here's a link to it so you don't have to hunt around in the forum. I got this from another post here.

[BroDoze]

Awesome. Car will have under 20mi on it, so brand new. Wonder if I should’ve bought a new wear sensor. It was offered with my is2000s, but I skipped it. I heard it is less of an issue if the brakes are brand new. I wish he would’ve gotten into that portion in the video.

Thanks again for all the help!

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Awesome. Car will have under 20mi on it, so brand new. Wonder if I should’ve bought a new wear sensor. It was offered with my is2000s, but I skipped it. I heard it is less of an issue if the brakes are brand new. I wish he would’ve gotten into that portion in the video.

Thanks again for all the help!

I hate to sound alarmist in saying this - but if you are REALLY careful when removing the wear sensor, you will be able to reuse it. "Really careful" I mean don't pull by the wires, it is very easy to do that, even by mistake. I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to get a good hold of the sensor's housing. It's in there pretty good - it's frustrating to remove it. Just wiggle it back & forth, pulling outward & it will come free.

[LAGWAGN]

Good advice in this thread. And if I can do it, anyone can. Though, I did over torque the very last bolt of the job, on the rear, and snap it. Still….easy job!

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

Anyone know if this is actually the right part number for the one time use nuts

34112284399

Is the bolt, the nut, or both supposed to be one time use??

This appears to be the nut, maybe for front caliper? This is not the bolt for the rear calipers.

This is the correct bolt for the rear: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/34206850560/

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

Thanks. So the other part numbers referenced are not needed / not one time use?

The rear caliper bolts are supposedly one-time use as well. Aerobod is correct - this is the correct part #: 34-20-6-850-560. I found an actual pic of it on ECS & it looks exactly like the one I removed. I just ordered 4.

[BroDoze]

Ok, so we're saying the front bolts are also one-time use?

Can we get a final answer on Part numbers and quantity required for F/R pad replacement?

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by BroDoze

Ok, so we're saying the front bolts are also one-time use?

Can we get a final answer on Part numbers and quantity required for F/R pad replacement?

I am not an expert here - but I think only the rear bolts are one time use. The rears are torqued to 25 ft lbs & an additional 90 degrees. The front nuts are torqued to 70 ft lbs, no additional turn.

This is per JABCAT DIY thread here: https://g87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...75&postcount=4

The rear bolt part # is 34-20-6-850-560.

[fanofbmwe46]

Originally Posted by MASHCT

I am not an expert here - but I think only the rear bolts are one time use. The rears are torqued to 25 ft lbs & an additional 90 degrees. The front nuts are torqued to 70 ft lbs, no additional turn.

This is per JABCAT DIY thread here: https://g87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30777775&postcount=4

The rear bolt part # is 34-20-6-850-560.

Ok so to confirm:
2 rear bolts 34206850560
4 front nuts 34112284399

Nothing else?

Thanks!

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by fanofbmwe46

Ok so to confirm:
2 rear bolts 34206850560
4 front nuts 34112284399

Nothing else?

Thanks!

You need 4 rear bolts. I am not sure if the front nuts need to be replaced, but if you want to do them, it won't hurt. The picture on ECS's website looks like the nut I removed (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/34112284399/)