[MPR]

Originally Posted by TJZ67201

I use the floor jack method as well, in combination with the Jack Rod (the whimsy of the name does not escape me). It makes it safe to get under the vehicle while using a Jack instead of relying on just the hydrolic pressure. Makes it easy to lower the vehicle back to level ground to ensure maximum draining and significantly reduces overall time spent fiddling with the ramps

https://a.co/d/244trnI

Is that universal? I just bought a new harbor freight jack, and i wouldnt mind eliminating a ramp from my oil change process.

[TJZ67201]

Originally Posted by MPR

Is that universal? I just bought a new harbor freight jack, and i wouldnt mind eliminating a ramp from my oil change process.

Yep, I do highly recommend. Works with most jacks from what I’ve seen. No issues with mine so far, super solid

[Baby_G42M]

Picked up my '25 M240i xdrive about 2 months ago, about 800 miles now, and plan on doing the oil change around the 1200 miles mark.

I have been using some 2x4 to get the car high enough to get to the center jack point, then to stabilize it by putting two jack stands, (That's how I did my undercoating), and then lowering it on the jack stands. I will probably repeat this process when performing the oil change.

Any recommendations, as this seems to take quite some time just for setting up?

[MPR]

What center jack point? TJZ67201

[Baby_G42M]

Originally Posted by MPR

What center jack point? TJZ67201

See this attachment from the BMW service manual

[MPR]

Gotcha, ive been wondering about that little circle, glad to see it confirmed

[Baby_G42M]

Originally Posted by MPR

Gotcha, ive been wondering about that little circle, glad to see it confirmed

Yeah, the only thing I haven't done is jack up the car from the rear diff as it seemed kind of sketchy when I was under the car and there isn't a good flat surface to jack it up. So still need to find a way to get the car on all 4 jacks stand eventually to swap the rear diff fluid.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by Baby_G42M

Yeah, the only thing I haven't done is jack up the car from the rear diff as it seemed kind of sketchy when I was under the car and there isn't a good flat surface to jack it up. So still need to find a way to get the car on all 4 jacks stand eventually to swap the rear diff fluid.

I am giving up on DIY maintenance beyond oil changes and brake pads with this car. With my prior cars (BRZ, Integra GSR, S2000) I did almost everything. My garage isnt huge and this car is big and heavy, I just dont want to bother with it. If i had a big garage with a lift it would be a different story.

[inevitab1e]

Is it 100% necessary to have the car level for an oil change?
I changed the oil on my 135i all the time with ramps and didn't have any issues.

[MPR]

Originally Posted by inevitab1e

Is it 100% necessary to have the car level for an oil change?
I changed the oil on my 135i all the time with ramps and didn't have any issues.

Oil will come out but not all. Think about the logic/physics (is that the right word?), the drain bolt is on the bottom of the pan, if the car is on an angle, the oil will pool up in the corner of the pan opposite of your jacking point and never reach the drain hole.

I jack up the front, remove the drain bolt to begin draining, lower the car back down for 10 minutes to let it completely drain, jack it back up and put the drain plug back in, lower the car again and then put the new filter in and add oil.

[TJZ67201]

Originally Posted by MPR

Oil will come out but not all. Think about the logic/physics (is that the right word?), the drain bolt is on the bottom of the pan, if the car is on an angle, the oil will pool up in the corner of the pan opposite of your jacking point and never reach the drain hole.

I jack up the front, remove the drain bolt to begin draining, lower the car back down for 10 minutes to let it completely drain, jack it back up and put the drain plug back in, lower the car again and then put the new filter in and add oil.

I change the filter during that 10min gap while the car is down draining 😉 then lift it back up to put the plug in

[MPR]

Originally Posted by TJZ67201

I change the filter during that 10min gap while the car is down draining 😉 then lift it back up to put the plug in

Yeah I do that too actually

[Maxp]

Putting the m240 on rhinoramps on level ground would produce 4.5° of elevation. I don't think it matters much with the design of the oil pan.

[StarLord728]

Originally Posted by PNTDG42

3. Dig a 18-24" deep hole that fits between the front tires

Thats really not even a bad idea if you have the yard for it. I know i do in Mass. Not even dig a hole. use cinder blocks and I-beams. Technically just make a drive up service ramp to the side of your yard off the driveway. Shit, now you got me looking outside lol.

[jmattheeew]

Originally Posted by MPR

I did my first oil change today and it was much easier than I was expecting, especially with how I ended up doing it. I wanted the car to be level while draining so what I did is:
Drove the car to temp and let it rest to cool down a bit
Loosened the oil fill cap
Jacked up only the drivers side front wheel and put a ramp under it
Started the drain process
Jacked up the front wheel off of the ramp, removed the ramp and let the car back down on all 4 wheels. This would be equivalent to the car being on a lift at the dealer/shop.
Replaced filter
Jack up the front wheel again and let it down back onto ramp
Ensured the oil was done draining and replaced drain plug gasket and reinstalled drain plug
Filled with oil

A few notes for things you guys may run into:

The drain plug and oil filter housing should be torqued to 25Nm or 18.5 ft-lbs. My larger torque wrench has a minimum of 20 ft-lbs and my smaller one has a max of 15 ft-lbs, so since I could not get to exactly 18.5, I over-torqued the filter and drain plug a bit to 20 ft-lbs.

I drained the spent oil into the Liqui-Moly jugs, and I filled the larger one to the brim and one of the smaller 1 L jugs to around 3/4 of the way. I wish I'd marked the original level in each and only filled the spent oil to that level so I could determine how much oil I drained/possibly burned off.
I still have the jugs in my garage and one of these days I will pour some from the larger to the smaller to see exactly where I land.

A true consummate professional. 🍻

[DaBoss19754]

Sorry to revive an old thread - will be carrying out my first oil change soon on my new G42 M240i xdrive (c1,500 miles) - I have decided to use Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 0W-20 but was wondering if I can get away with re-using the existing crush washer? If not does anyone know the part number for a replacement crush washer please? Also am I right in thinking the sump plug is a torque of 25Nm

Was thinking of leaving the filter alone until the first bmw service given the car is so new?

Thanks

[MPR]

Originally Posted by DaBoss19754

Sorry to revive an old thread - will be carrying out my first oil change soon on my new G42 M240i xdrive (c1,500 miles) - I have decided to use Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 0W-20 but was wondering if I can get away with re-using the existing crush washer? If not does anyone know the part number for a replacement crush washer please? Also am I right in thinking the sump plug is a torque of 25Nm

Was thinking of leaving the filter alone until the first bmw service given the car is so new?

Thanks

You’d probably be fine reusing the filter, but I personally wouldnt. Its like $15

I would not re-use a crush washer

Yes that looks like the correct torque for the drain plug and filter. 25nm or 18.5 fr lbs, IIRC.

[DaBoss19754]

Thanks

Going to use your jack/ramp method - I take it you just put it on one ramp to allow sufficient room to remove the sump plug?

[MPR]

Originally Posted by DaBoss19754

Thanks

Going to use your jack/ramp method - I take it you just put it on one ramp to allow sufficient room to remove the sump plug?

Yup, enough room to slide a drain pan under then slide myself under to remove the drain plug. I also leave the floor jack in place as I always have 2 supports, just incase one fails.

[DaBoss19754]

Originally Posted by MPR

Yup, enough room to slide a drain pan under then slide myself under to remove the drain plug. I also leave the floor jack in place as I always have 2 supports, just incase one fails.

Spot on thanks for that

Have ordered some Liqui Moly Top Tec 6600 0W20 which is LL 17 FE+ but then just called into my local dealer to pick up a filter and the guy said do not use 0W 20 as it should be 0W 30!!! When I quizzed him and said “but the manual says 0W 20 is fine he just said no it isn’t and recommended I don’t put it in!! Great.

What are other people in the UK putting in their M240i’s?? Sorry I know there are pages and pages of threads and I have read most of them but interested to know what others are actually putting in

Thanks

[MPR]

I order from FCP Euro here in the US. My order just came in yesterday

[Madrigal1991.]

Good 👍