[ZPD]

I had my 1st track day with my M2 yesterday and I was quite impressed. I went to Motorsports Ranch in Cresson Texas. I have been there several times in my previous car.

My current setup:
*19" square Apex VS-5RS wheels with 295 Nankang CR-S tires.
* Millway Camber plates
* EBC Blue brake pads
*KW Suspension

My impressions:
The car felt really balanced. Acceleration out of corners was fantastic and the tires were great. It took an entire lap before I felt like they had enough heat to begin to push. They didn't grip as well as the Nitto NT01s that I had on my previous car but I wasn't surprised by that given the different treadwear rating. Some thought that the KW suspension might be too soft for track use. I never noticed hitting the bumpstops. I noticed that on some of the longer sweeping "carousel" type corners I would have a little hopping but it was difficult to tell if I was pushing the tires too much or if it was the KW suspension being too soft. Either way, it isn't bad enough to justify ~$4K on coilovers at this point. I played with traction control settings and found setting 5 to be pretty good. When I did 6, I would lose acceleration out of some corners. On 5 I would have a little slip, but controllable on sharp corners. On 4 I lost traction on several corners. As I get more comfortable with the car I will experiment with lower settings.
The EBC bluestuff pads were "OK". I didn't experience any fade but they didn't have that initial bite that I was hoping for. I think that when these wear out I will replace them with Carbotech or G-Loc

The bad:
This one is likely my fault but I share it as a word of warning to others. When I replaced my pads I torqued down the calipers to the appropriate torque. Unfortunately, after about 8 laps I heard a grinding noise so I pulled into the pits. Both of the nuts on the passenger front caliper were missing and the caliper walked backwards and was rubbing on the inside of the wheel. grrrrr. I ultimately found some new 12mm nuts and did several more sessions just fine. I suspect that when I torqued the nuts down the caliper was at a bit of an angle and wedged against the guide bolts preventing it from fully seating but still allowing me to get the proper torque. After a while the caliper became unwedged and now the nuts were loose and just backed off. Or the nuts are single-use nuts with a top lock distorted thread so there was no locking effect by reusing them. I think that the latter is more likely.
The second problem is that on certain corners I could hear a definite thumping noise coming from the front right. It sounds like plastic flapping and hitting something. I have another track day this weekend so I am going to do a check on the plastic panels and the suspension to see if I can find what is making that noise before I head out.

[GT3M2]

Originally Posted by ZPD

I had my 1st track day with my M2 yesterday and I was quite impressed. I went to Motorsports Ranch in Cresson Texas. I have been there several times in my previous car.

My current setup:
*19" square Apex VS-5RS wheels with 295 Nankang CR-S tires.
* Millway Camber plates
* EBC Blue brake pads
*KW Suspension

My impressions:
The car felt really balanced. Acceleration out of corners was fantastic and the tires were great. It took an entire lap before I felt like they had enough heat to begin to push. They didn't grip as well as the Nitto NT01s that I had on my previous car but I wasn't surprised by that given the different treadwear rating. Some thought that the KW suspension might be too soft for track use. I never noticed hitting the bumpstops. I noticed that on some of the longer sweeping "carousel" type corners I would have a little hopping but it was difficult to tell if I was pushing the tires too much or if it was the KW suspension being too soft. Either way, it isn't bad enough to justify ~$4K on coilovers at this point. I played with traction control settings and found setting 5 to be pretty good. When I did 6, I would lose acceleration out of some corners. On 5 I would have a little slip, but controllable on sharp corners. On 4 I lost traction on several corners. As I get more comfortable with the car I will experiment with lower settings.
The EBC bluestuff pads were "OK". I didn't experience any fade but they didn't have that initial bite that I was hoping for. I think that when these wear out I will replace them with Carbotech or G-Loc

The bad:
This one is likely my fault but I share it as a word of warning to others. When I replaced my pads I torqued down the calipers to the appropriate torque. Unfortunately, after about 8 laps I heard a grinding noise so I pulled into the pits. Both of the nuts on the passenger front caliper were missing and the caliper walked backwards and was rubbing on the inside of the wheel. grrrrr. I ultimately found some new 12mm nuts and did several more sessions just fine. I suspect that when I torqued the nuts down the caliper was at a bit of an angle and wedged against the guide bolts preventing it from fully seating but still allowing me to get the proper torque. After a while the caliper became unwedged and now the nuts were loose and just backed off. Or the nuts are single-use nuts with a top lock distorted thread so there was no locking effect by reusing them. I think that the latter is more likely.
The second problem is that on certain corners I could hear a definite thumping noise coming from the front right. It sounds like plastic flapping and hitting something. I have another track day this weekend so I am going to do a check on the plastic panels and the suspension to see if I can find what is making that noise before I head out.

Check fender liner!

Good report.

-GT3M2

[ZPD]

Another thing to add for those that track their M2's-
Don't forget to remove the brake cooling covers in the front fender liners. Also if you have the carbon bucket seats the headrest pad is removable with a T25 bit. This gives more room for your helmet which is a really nice feature.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by ZPD

The bad:
This one is likely my fault but I share it as a word of warning to others. When I replaced my pads I torqued down the calipers to the appropriate torque. Unfortunately, after about 8 laps I heard a grinding noise so I pulled into the pits. Both of the nuts on the passenger front caliper were missing and the caliper walked backwards and was rubbing on the inside of the wheel. grrrrr. I ultimately found some new 12mm nuts and did several more sessions just fine. I suspect that when I torqued the nuts down the caliper was at a bit of an angle and wedged against the guide bolts preventing it from fully seating but still allowing me to get the proper torque. After a while the caliper became unwedged and now the nuts were loose and just backed off. Or the nuts are single-use nuts with a top lock distorted thread so there was no locking effect by reusing them. I think that the latter is more likely.

Great report. Can't wait to get my M2 to hit the tracks and contrast that to my Camaro SS 1LE.

Question on the brake caliper - by "wedged against the guide post" you mean the two bolts holding the caliper to bracket, or are there other guide posts?

What do you suggest we do/look for to avoid that? Maybe bolt down the caliper before inserting the Brembo pins through the pads to have less tension?

I believe that BMW/Brembo discourage removing those nuts from the caliper to change pads. I think the recommended procedure is to remove the big caliper bracket bolts from the hub. But removing the nuts is so much more convenient, that everyone does it that way. I guess we should not skimp on those $10 non-reusable nuts, hugh?


I hope you continue to share your experiences - we learn together.

[baron95]

Also how much did the BlueStuff pads wear off?

(I like Carbotech/Glock pads, except for the excessive wear rate they have, so trying to avoid them, as I'm lazy to change pads too often - looking for something that will last long on track as main criteria).

Thanks.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by baron95

Great report. Can't wait to get my M2 to hit the tracks and contrast that to my Camaro SS 1LE.

Question on the brake caliper - by "wedged against the guide post" you mean the two bolts holding the caliper to bracket, or are there other guide posts?

Yes, the two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Because the caliper slides off of those bolts when you remove the caliper any misalignment can cause it to bind as you remove or reinstall it. It's possible that I had it in a slight bind when I tightened the nuts. The more that I think about it though those could be single-use nuts with a deformed thread locking feature on it. Using them twice can lead to the problem that I had. I will post a picture when I get home tonight.

There was a guy at the track who had a Camaro Z28. He had a tough time keeping up with me if that gives you some hope.

[Charley135]

what is the front camber?
how is the wear of the tire sidewall?

[baron95]

Originally Posted by ZPD

Yes, the two bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Because the caliper slides off of those bolts when you remove the caliper any misalignment can cause it to bind as you remove or reinstall it. It's possible that I had it in a slight bind when I tightened the nuts. The more that I think about it though those could be single-use nuts with a deformed thread locking feature on it. Using them twice can lead to the problem that I had. I will post a picture when I get home tonight.

There was a guy at the track who had a Camaro Z28. He had a tough time keeping up with me if that gives you some hope.

Thanks - yes pictures would be great. Trying to learn as much as I can since this will be my first BMW.

I loved my C7 and Camaro SS 1LE to change brake pads - even though it was 6-piston in front they used a bolt bridge - I could easily change pads in 10 min without removing the calipers.

But excited about the M2.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by baron95

Also how much did the BlueStuff pads wear off?

(I like Carbotech/Glock pads, except for the excessive wear rate they have, so trying to avoid them, as I'm lazy to change pads too often - looking for something that will last long on track as main criteria).

Thanks.

I would guess about 25%. I should have measured them before I installed them.
Also, all of the holes in the rotors were packed closed with brake dust. I wish BMW used grooves instead of holes in the rotors.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by Charley135

what is the front camber?
how is the wear of the tire sidewall?

camber is somewhere close to -3 degrees. Here is a pic of the sidewall.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by baron95

Thanks - yes pictures would be great. Trying to learn as much as I can since this will be my first BMW.

I loved my C7 and Camaro SS 1LE to change brake pads - even though it was 6-piston in front they used a bolt bridge - I could easily change pads in 10 min without removing the calipers.

But excited about the M2.

The bolt (with the replacement nut) is circled. My S550 Mustang sounds like your Camaro. Remove the bridge bolt on the Brembo, remove the pins, and slide the pads out of the calipers and install the track pads. I would drive to the track with street pads and tires and swap out all 4 corners in 30-45 mins.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by ZPD

I wish BMW used grooves instead of holes in the rotors.

Or blanks. Anything but holes. I hate them. And it looks so 1980s.

But hey, I'm happy that at least the front brakes on all M cars are now a decent size. I guess replacing the pads by removing the 2 nuts is not so bad, but we need a good supply of them.

Have you found the best place/price to order a pack?

(I have a sickness - since I don't yet have my car, I'm collecting all the parts/tools need ahead of time to be ready )

[baron95]

Originally Posted by ZPD

The bolt (with the missing nut) is circled.

Yep, and all the "professional" brake installation videos posted on youtube have the pros reusing the nuts and winging on the torque.

I'm glad you noticed the noise - not hard to hear with a helmet and all the track noises.

On the plus side, you lightened up that caliper by a few grams

Just need some Brembo red paint and good to go.

[ZPD]

I had a closer look last night and those 2 nuts are the only way to remove the calipers. There's is not an intermediate bracket. The studs are in the knuckle.
Now to get some red paint 😂

[Charley135]

Originally Posted by ZPD

camber is somewhere close to -3 degrees. Here is a pic of the sidewall.

thank you!
the wear seems pretty even

[gcmak]

Thanks for reporting in!
One safety net - if you can call it that - of not running even larger diameter rims is they can keep your caliper mostly attached if the nuts fail!

I bought new nuts for when I swap out the pads, really none of the hardware is cheap but to your point, if the other side is still torqued, then it's likely this other side wasn't fully seated - still a very good lesson to share.

Looks like camber and other things were pretty on point!
I wonder if some of the noises you heard are the fins - in front of the tires and between the front tires - scraping the ground at full compression (since you're lowered).

Looking forward to more of your track adventures!! Have fun, be safe.

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by gcmak

Thanks for reporting in!
One safety net - if you can call it that - of not running even larger diameter rims is they can keep your caliper mostly attached if the nuts fail!

I bought new nuts for when I swap out the pads, really none of the hardware is cheap but to your point, if the other side is still torqued, then it's likely this other side wasn't fully seated - still a very good lesson to share.

Looks like camber and other things were pretty on point!
I wonder if some of the noises you heard are the fins - in front of the tires and between the front tires - scraping the ground at full compression (since you're lowered).

Looking forward to more of your track adventures!! Have fun, be safe.

I had the wheels off last night and noticed that the inner fender liner on the passenger side easily flexes by the louvers and hits the heat exchanger in front of the front wheel. When I would knock it sounded similar to the noises I heard. I am going to put a bit of foam strip and tape in that area tonight and see if the sound goes away tomorrow when I hit the track.

[gcmak]

Originally Posted by ZPD

I had the wheels off last night and noticed that the inner fender liner on the passenger side easily flexes by the louvers and hits the heat exchanger in front of the front wheel. When I would knock it sounded similar to the noises I heard. I am going to put a bit of foam strip and tape in that area tonight and see if the sound goes away tomorrow when I hit the track.

Sounds like a plan. Really inclined to replace the liners with the aftermarket set that costs a bunch…

[tj_lethal187]

Originally Posted by ZPD

Another thing to add for those that track their M2's-
Don't forget to remove the brake cooling covers in the front fender liners. Also if you have the carbon bucket seats the headrest pad is removable with a T25 bit. This gives more room for your helmet which is a really nice feature.

Good note, I am going to be tracking my M2 at our local road course in May for the first time, is there a thread already with a "how to?" on this brake cooling cover removal? Very amateur mechanic here but learning!

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by tj_lethal187

Good note, I am going to be tracking my M2 at our local road course in May for the first time, is there a thread already with a "how to?" on this brake cooling cover removal? Very amateur mechanic here but learning!

It's easier than you think. If you can get the battery cover off of your TV's remote control then you got this

[BackOnBlack]

Originally Posted by tj_lethal187

Good note, I am going to be tracking my M2 at our local road course in May for the first time, is there a thread already with a "how to?" on this brake cooling cover removal? Very amateur mechanic here but learning!

https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...5&postcount=66

[jhstjh]

I must be removing the brake cooling duct covers wrong. Every time I have to press the clip so hard and yank it out to the point I'm afraid it's going to break. And also need to press it really hard to put the cover back. Nowhere near as effortless as the video above.