[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

They need to use a ball end hex key. They should have them.

With these front camper plate all the way out my front campers are -2.3 left and -1.9 right. You had the millway right? Do they offer more adjustments then these? I am trying to get to -1.8 on both side.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Hi Genxg87, sorry for the late reply, I have been busy with everything around me. After several days of driving I can see that the car has settle a bit more. 63m front and 64m rear measures it from the bottom edge of the rim to the fender edge. 1st click voided then 10 clicks out all around. The car feel a liltle bit bumpy but not too bad. It has good compression over bumps but not too good for rebound which causes the up and down bouncy feeling. 1 good thing after any DIY for sure was no funny noises.
What are your settings?

I think the car may like a softer spring in the back. Seems that the rebound in the back isn’t enough.

I’m driving all around at 5 clicks around town. Used to drive at 9 and didn’t like it.

I’d rather have firm and not hop.

On the track there was a tight turn that the back end would oscillate too much. It almost seems like the rear needs to run a lower shock setting than the front.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

With these front camper plate all the way out my front campers are -2.3 left and -1.9 right. You had the millway right? Do they offer more adjustments then these? I am trying to get to -1.8 on both side.

Not sure about min settings. But millway definitely has more range so you could run less camber.
Any reason you want to run -1.8?

I’m running -3.5 which works well on the track. Good tire wear and temps had the inside only a bit warmer than the outside.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

I think the car may like a softer spring in the back. Seems that the rebound in the back isn’t enough.

I’m driving all around at 5 clicks around town. Used to drive at 9 and didn’t like it.

I’d rather have firm and not hop.

On the track there was a tight turn that the back end would oscillate too much. It almost seems like the rear needs to run a lower shock setting than the front.

I think full true coilover for the rear instead of divorced set up will help with oscillation.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

Not sure about min settings. But millway definitely has more range so you could run less camber.
Any reason you want to run -1.8?

I’m running -3.5 which works well on the track. Good tire wear and temps had the inside only a bit warmer than the outside.

I mainly use the car for street and not track dedicated. Do you have any ideas why the front alignment are so off on 1 side? This is also the case when on oe suspension. Nothing bended I dont remember hitting anything.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

I mainly use the car for street and not track dedicated. Do you have any ideas why the front alignment are so off on 1 side? This is also the case when on oe suspension. Nothing bended I dont remember hitting anything.

Are the measurements taken on a proper alignment rack or at least with a properly levelled pad that the car is resting on? Are the BMW specified weights in the ISTA being used on both front seats, back seat and in the boot / trunk? If you are just putting weight on the drivers seat, left camber should be higher than right camber in an LHD car.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by aerobod

Are the measurements taken on a proper alignment rack or at least with a properly levelled pad that the car is resting on? Are the BMW specified weights in the ISTA being used on both front seats, back seat and in the boot / trunk? If you are just putting weight on the drivers seat, left camber should be higher than right camber in an LHD car.

I will have the car conner balancing. This may help with it all.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

I will have the car conner balancing. This may help with it all.

This is the current spec for my car.

[kevinG87]

Careful on the nut from Vorshlag. According to their tip I tightened down the nut using an airgun, and now it is stripped and I can’t take it out any longer. I ended up taking the shock out grabbed it by its nibble and shoot the nut all the way down while waiting for a replacement Damper from Ohlins.
Btw. Dont cut the oem dust cover boot like how Ohlins has it in their instructions manual. All the water can get into the camber plate and cause corrosion.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Careful on the nut from Vorshlag. According to their tip I tightened down the nut using an airgun, and now it is stripped and I can’t take it out any longer. I ended up taking the shock out grabbed it by its nibble and shoot the nut all the way down while waiting for a replacement Damper from Ohlins.
Btw. Dont cut the oem dust cover boot like how Ohlins has it in their instructions manual. All the water can get into the camber plate and cause corrosion.

Oh man that sucks. One of the nuts on my was a snug fit but I threaded it in by hand and a ratchet to start.

How much does a replacement shock run?

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

Oh man that sucks. One of the nuts on my was a snug fit but I threaded it in by hand and a ratchet to start.

How much does a replacement shock run?

A replacement damper cost $400 plus fee of 300 for the shop and 30 in regular shipping.
There are places where you can just get the shocks plus shipping without paying the fee like EAS.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

A replacement damper cost $400 plus fee of 300 for the shop and 30 in regular shipping.
There are places where you can just get the shocks plus shipping without paying the fee like EAS.

Feel free to reach out to us for Ohlins coilovers or replacement parts.

What fees did they charge?