[kevinG87]

Anyone running SPL Adjustable Endlink? I just installed anset of front and rear. The rear are fine, but the front bended as soon as I test drive the car around the block. I am running Ohlins R/T and the tech person at SPL said “Ohlins have notoriously large brackets to hold the swaybars, which are very likely coming into contact with our endlink.” I Installed these links at ride height with the bar at neutral position and both the endlinks were at freeplay. I didn’t hear any noises while driving so they shouldn’t contact each other to caused the bend. Anyone with similar issue? How to fix?

[ZPD]

Ya a lot of companies use large brackets on their struts/coilovers. My MCS were no exception. I used a 1/2" spacer to get the clearance needed. This picture is at full lock and compression and there is a few thousands between the bracket and the SPL end link.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by ZPD

Ya a lot of companies use large brackets on their struts/coilovers. My MCS were no exception. I used a 1/2" spacer to get the clearance needed. This picture is at full lock and compression and there is a few thousands between the bracket and the SPL end link.

Thank you kind sir. I spoke to SPL and they are willing to replace both turnbuckle and added some extra spacers. TY.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by ZPD

Ya a lot of companies use large brackets on their struts/coilovers. My MCS were no exception. I used a 1/2" spacer to get the clearance needed. This picture is at full lock and compression and there is a few thousands between the bracket and the SPL end link.

Hi ZPD, If you put the spacer on there, do you also need to put the same one same size on the bottom where it link to the bar?

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Hi ZPD, If you put the spacer on there, do you also need to put the same one same size on the bottom where it link to the bar?

No, there is enough movement in the rod end that it isn't necessary.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by ZPD

No, there is enough movement in the rod end that it isn't necessary.

Do you mind me asking, where do you buy these spacers?

[ZPD]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Do you mind me asking, where do you buy these spacers?

I used a shaft collar (they are for attaching things to an electric motor shaft). You can get it at a good hardware store like Ace, True Value, or OSH. I doubt HD or Lowes will have them.
Otherwise, you can get them from McMaster Carr.

[Track/S]

Aside from the fact that spl is garbage, those final ball joints should only be used with steering stoppers, without them the uniballs are blocked with full turn.

[GenXG87]

Dang kevinG87. I was planning on putting in my end links tomorrow. Now I'll have to do some checking.

were you able to get them at zero preload with the Vorshlag camber plates since that moves the strut down.

One thing I'd be curious about is the rotation of the strut and the position of the sway bar mount. It would seem that if the strut was rotated too much to put the end link mount relatively more forward in the car that could create the binding issue.

I know spl says to get the end link perpendicular, but when I set up my Ohlins I tried to put the strut position close to stock and that has the end links tilting slightly towards the rear of the car.

I get perpendicular is important to allow the bar to do it's job but too often it seems aftermarket parts have limited testing with various components.

With that said if the setup is perpendicular and there is no pre-load the arc of the bars movement would pull the end link away from the mount.

If I decide to test it out tomorrow I'll share my impressions.

I'm hoping to get access to the alignment machine this weekend and put in my bumpsteer kit. Beside too much bumpsteer I still need to sort out a tracking issue under power. It still feels like the rear toe is off and still may be toe right.

I'm about ready to buy this:
https://smartracingproducts.com/coll...ete-set-up-kit

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

Dang kevinG87. I was planning on putting in my end links tomorrow. Now I'll have to do some checking.

were you able to get them at zero preload with the Vorshlag camber plates since that moves the strut down.

One thing I'd be curious about is the rotation of the strut and the position of the sway bar mount. It would seem that if the strut was rotated too much to put the end link mount relatively more forward in the car that could create the binding issue.

I know spl says to get the end link perpendicular, but when I set up my Ohlins I tried to put the strut position close to stock and that has the end links tilting slightly towards the rear of the car.

I get perpendicular is important to allow the bar to do it's job but too often it seems aftermarket parts have limited testing with various components.

With that said if the setup is perpendicular and there is no pre-load the arc of the bars movement would pull the end link away from the mount.

If I decide to test it out tomorrow I'll share my impressions.

I'm hoping to get access to the alignment machine this weekend and put in my bumpsteer kit. Beside too much bumpsteer I still need to sort out a tracking issue under power. It still feels like the rear toe is off and still may be toe right.

I'm about ready to buy this:
https://smartracingproducts.com/coll...ete-set-up-kit

Hey GenXG87. This is how I had mine set. Referring to the pictures, I had the ohlins sway bracket aligned perpendicular with the cut out of the Swivel Bearing. This will ensure it matched with how the Oem was. The spl link will required a 10-12mm spacer to clear the Ohlins bracket, but that will push the shaft out much further so there was not enough threads to tie the nut, hence I replaced the nut with a low profile one. Both the nut and spacers can be purchased on amazon.

Spacer: PATIKIL M10 Aluminum Spacers, 5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPXPHZ6N...p_mob_ap_share

Jam nut:M10 Nylon Insert Hex Lock... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TDFN4V...p_mob_ap_share

I hope all these make senses and usefuls.

[kevinG87]

GenX87 also if you getting the link, get them from Spl, ask them to include all the hardwares for ohlins shocks. I ordered mine from EAS, so none of these were included. In the result i bended both link but lucky managed to straighten them back out.

[GenXG87]

I need to get some more pics tomorrow... and meditate on this lol.

Actually my end link is tilted forward towards the front of the car with my current setup.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

I need to get some more pics tomorrow... and meditate on this lol.

Actually my end link is tilted forward towards the front of the car with my current setup.
Attachment 3460059

Attachment 3460060

I don’t think that is too far ahead and I don’t think it really effect anything while the car is at ride height and the swaybar is at its resting zero preload position. The oem link joints are soft and can easily be maneuver around so I can’t tell much differences while turning the car or driving over bump. But the SPL, you can tell right away going over small bump, 1 side is more bouncier then the other if they were not set correctly.

[kevinG87]

If you need to acheive almost zero preload, adjust the front spl link top to bottom to be 360mm. That is 20mm shorter then the OEM Link at 380mm. I went withthis 20mm drop from reading Ohlins instructions and they did mentioned “if everything was measured by their instructions, the car will drop 20mm.” Drop 20mm from stock height meaning also drop 20mm from stock link. This will ensure your sway geometry maintained at 90 degree.
The rear endlinks measurement top to bottom are 165mm. All these were confirmed by a shop I went to, they verifed and confirmed both front and rear have no tension.

[GenXG87]

Today was a pretty good day. First the SPL bumpsteer kit is a 100% needed. It completely changes the feel of the car. No hard testing but just driving around really changed the feel of the car.

No on to the whole end link dilemma.

kevinG87 I turned my SPL rod ends in all the way and they are still longer than the stock end links. Centeine to centerline for my stock was 14” or so. All rough measurement.

The SPL with an ideal adjustment of +/- 1/2 range is about 1.5” longer than stock.

On my car I need about a 1/2” less preload.

I did spend time adjusting g the rotation on my struts. IMO aligning the mount to the slot wasn’t good. Also my sides weren’t the same and that introduced other issues.

After tweaking it I got it as good as I could get. Getting the end links to be perpendicular doesn’t seem feasible.

I tried to take a bunch of pics. Not sure how helpful they are.

However I did learn that my driver side had more preload than my pass.

Ow they both have preload but they are the same on both sides.

I haven’t done an alignment yet but put the tie rod end basically how the car was and it drives straight.

The car drives much better. Bump steer is pretty much gone and the suspension feels more even where GeForce I felt the pass side over reacted.

[kevinG87]

Looking good my man. Swaybar next? M4 CS is the best to get rn for weight saving. The other one on the market is HR but that will weight you down 20lbs.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Looking good my man. Swaybar next? M4 CS is the best to get rn for weight saving. The other one on the market is HR but that will weight you down 20lbs.

I haven’t looked into the CS sway bar. Def won’t do the HR. No way in my mind does it make sense to add all that weight to the nose of the car.

At this point I don’t feel like the car needs a bar. I’m considering going a step softer on the rear spring to get it to plant a bit better. But I will probably wait a bit on that and get more track time with this setup.

Also considering the Verus stage 1 aero next. With a wing the car may like the stiffer rear spring.

I have a track weekends the next two weeks so it will give me time to play with shock settings.

I am getting it up on the alignment machine today. Still not happy with how the car tracks under power. It feels like the rear is slight toe right.

[kevinG87]

Have you test it out with a wider rear? Let get the alignment done 1st and see how it feels. If not, a wider rear and fix toe link with solid bushing might help. What you do in the front effect the rear and vice versa. Keep us up to date please.

[GenXG87]

Originally Posted by kevinG87

Have you test it out with a wider rear? Let get the alignment done 1st and see how it feels. If not, a wider rear and fix toe link with solid bushing might help. What you do in the front effect the rear and vice versa. Keep us up to date please.

I’m running 295front 315rear. I have the fall-line rear toe links.


We couldn’t get the hunter alignment working today. They don’t have my car. Tried a couple different models. I ended up working on it old school. The shop had some toe plates so I spent time on the front. Got my steering angle pretty solid now. Pinion angle is between -0.5 to 0.5 deg going straight using ProTool to read it. Car is tracking straight. The oddity under power seems to really only happen in mdm with DSC off the car is pretty straight.

The car had about a 1/4” toe in for some reason. Was supposed to be 0 toe on my last alignment. Took that out and it is now slightly toe-out. Maybe 1/32” max.

One thing I couldn’t do was check square since they didnt have the string setup.

But am now convinced I will only ever do my own alignment. I’ve already spent about $650 on alignments with this car and not sure I’ve ever been happy with it.

The car is the best it’s ever been right now. The steering is very sharp. Turn in is way improved. Bump steer issues gone. Fixing the front strut sway bay mount position makes the suspension feel balanced.

Looking forward to the track sat and sun.

[kevinG87]

Originally Posted by GenXG87

I’m running 295front 315rear. I have the fall-line rear toe links.


We couldn’t get the hunter alignment working today. They don’t have my car. Tried a couple different models. I ended up working on it old school. The shop had some toe plates so I spent time on the front. Got my steering angle pretty solid now. Pinion angle is between -0.5 to 0.5 deg going straight using ProTool to read it. Car is tracking straight. The oddity under power seems to really only happen in mdm with DSC off the car is pretty straight.

The car had about a 1/4” toe in for some reason. Was supposed to be 0 toe on my last alignment. Took that out and it is now slightly toe-out. Maybe 1/32” max.

One thing I couldn’t do was check square since they didnt have the string setup.

But am now convinced I will only ever do my own alignment. I’ve already spent about $650 on alignments with this car and not sure I’ve ever been happy with it.

The car is the best it’s ever been right now. The steering is very sharp. Turn in is way improved. Bump steer issues gone. Fixing the front strut sway bay mount position makes the suspension feel balanced.

Looking forward to the track sat and sun.

“The oddity under power seems to really only happen in mdm with DSC off the car is pretty straight.” That is odd, sound like a mdm issue that alot of people are having problem with, someone on here had to get the diff replaced under warranty. I dont remember which post but a search should comes up. Other then that it might be break binding issues.

Also you track the car so toe will change because those bolts will move around under hard trackings.

GenXG87 This is what you need for a full track car.
https://youtu.be/16fY1k71XBw?si=NwSSLFnJuOJIwkWQ

[maxwell smart]

I do my own alignment work. I've learned recently it's called motorsports setup alignment and teams never use machines, but instead use basic tools and knowledge.