[VIERsr]

Originally Posted by M2siast

Thanks guys. I was considering this, but would rather retain the controls.

This is what you need then.
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1991762

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by VIERsr

This is what you need then.
https://g80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1991762

Thanks! I saw that… it’s unfortunate I’d have to spend over $1,000 for this… I might just zip tie the flaps lol

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by M Division

This is how you open the flaps to 100%

https://youtu.be/BC8D82OuAS8?si=4TNxL00LOTV5ahJN

Did you just leave the control modules off the car? Seems like that makes the most sense, to just put them in a drawer somewhere.

[M Division]

Originally Posted by Searay55555

Did you just leave the control modules off the car? Seems like that makes the most sense, to just put them in a drawer somewhere.

Yes you can do that

[Shadak]

Originally Posted by M Division

Yes you can do that

So I finally did this today, previously only having the actuator fuse out. It is a bit louder, I like it. I also now get a turbo woosh on lift off at high rpm, not sure I had that before. I used a different steel wire which isnt amazing so i might replace that later. I assume using the plastic zip tie isnt a great idea?

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by Shadak

So I finally did this today, previously only having the actuator fuse out. It is a bit louder, I like it. I also now get a turbo woosh on lift off at high rpm, not sure I had that before. I used a different steel wire which isnt amazing so i might replace that later. I assume using the plastic zip tie isnt a great idea?

Did you just leave the actuators off, or did you reattach them? I used some 1mm solid stainless wire that worked fine. The melting point of stainless wire is pretty high.

[Shadak]

Originally Posted by Searay55555

Did you just leave the actuators off, or did you reattach them? I used some 1mm solid stainless wire that worked fine. The melting point of stainless wire is pretty high.

I took them off and stored, not sure id they can be attached without messing up the flap mechanism as it lines up with the rotating thingy.

edit: drove around a bit, now has this "decat" metallic sound to it when pushing, pretty good, its loud outside, not sure id want any louder tbh.

[Searay55555]

Originally Posted by Shadak

I took them off and stored, not sure id they can be attached without messing up the flap mechanism as it lines up with the rotating thingy.

edit: drove around a bit, now has this "decat" metallic sound to it when pushing, pretty good, its loud outside, not sure id want any louder tbh.

I reattached them but it’s a lot of stress on them, bolting them back in. I’m going to pull them back out tonight and store them like you did. That seems to be the best plan.

[Shadak]

Originally Posted by Searay55555

I reattached them but it’s a lot of stress on them, bolting them back in. I’m going to pull them back out tonight and store them like you did. That seems to be the best plan.

i think its better, i have taped the exposed end and secured the cable to the cable line rather than the heat shield like in the video, i didnt want to undo the shield, will see how it holds in mud and snow but seems fine.

[Searay55555]

I taped it up and stuffed it under the shield. It wasn’t too bad.

[M Division]

Originally Posted by Searay55555

I taped it up and stuffed it under the shield. It wasn’t too bad.

Personally I would remove and store.

Just make sure you tape up the connectors really well with a good equality electrical tape

[VIERsr]

I coded the ASD off and confirm that now in efficient mode there is no difference when you press the exhaust button, absolutely nothing happens.
In sport/sport+ mode, the difference is still noticeable, but less than before and now you can clearly hear when the valves are open and when they are not (before, the fake sound covered the exhaust and at low speed you could not tell where the noise was coming from).
Overall, the effect of the ASD on the G87 is less intrusive than on the F87, probably with the automatic transmission it would be more noticeable because of the fake burble when upshifting.

[Geighty7]

Anyone know if it’s safe to downshift on slowdown in the 6MT and let the engine RPMs help slow during break in period?? I usually hit 3-3.5k rpm with the auto rev and disengage clutch slowly to not torque the engine too hard. I just got her yesterday, this is just how I normally drive a 6MT. Curious if that’s fine as long as I don’t go over 4k during break in?

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

Anyone know if it’s safe to downshift on slowdown in the 6MT and let the engine RPMs help slow during break in period?? I usually hit 3-3.5k rpm with the auto rev and disengage clutch slowly to not torque the engine too hard. I just got her yesterday, this is just how I normally drive a 6MT. Curious if that’s fine as long as I don’t go over 4k during break in?

It’s fine for the engine. Too bad for your clutch.
No need to not go over 4K RPM. You need to let the engine go higher than 4K RPM anyway for a proper break in (and enjoyment). Please don’t limit it to 4K RPM.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by M2siast

It’s fine for the engine. Too bad for your clutch.
No need to not go over 4K RPM. You need to let the engine go higher than 4K RPM anyway for a proper break in (and enjoyment). Please don’t limit it to 4K RPM.

I’m not burning the clutch out really, pretty light on it besides in traffic. 4k rpm is the limit before break in I thought?

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

I’m not burning the clutch out really, pretty light on it besides in traffic. 4k rpm is the limit before break in I thought?

It’s not 4K.
There’s no limit per se, but a recommendation to avoid going over 5k before 600 miles, and 6k after 600 until 1200.

My comment about the clutch is that it’s not good practice for the clutch to reduce the car’s speed by lowering gears. That’s what the brake is for.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by M2siast

It’s not 4K.
There’s no limit per se, but a recommendation to avoid going over 5k before 600 miles, and 6k after 600 until 1200.

My comment about the clutch is that it’s not good practice for the clutch to reduce the car’s speed by lowering gears. That’s what the brake is for.

Downshifting while braking is a standard protocol for sports cars, that’s why we have auto rev match. It has to be done correctly- just braking without downshifting is terrible on your brakes.

[middyM]

So I just got my M2 today and one thing I noticed is when the engine is in Sport or Sport+ (M sound on) I get these extremely quiet/muffled pops and bangs. Is that normal? Are they supposed to be that quiet? It makes it sound like something is wrong with the engine

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by middyM

So I just got my M2 today and one thing I noticed is when the engine is in Sport or Sport+ (M sound on) I get these extremely quiet/muffled pops and bangs. Is that normal? Are they supposed to be that quiet? It makes it sound like something is wrong with the engine

By design. Don’t want pops and bangs, Efficient mode it is.

[middyM]

Originally Posted by M2siast

By design. Don’t want pops and bangs, Efficient mode it is.

Thanks! I like them they’re just quieter than I’ve heard on any car. Just want to make sure they’re that muffled for everyone else

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by middyM

Thanks! I like them they’re just quieter than I’ve heard on any car. Just want to make sure they’re that muffled for everyone else

The level will vary a bit based on the RPM/Load. Also, what you hear inside is not what you hear outside.

[middyM]

Originally Posted by M2siast

The level will vary a bit based on the RPM/Load. Also, what you hear inside is not what you hear outside.

Ok thanks! Guess I’m getting a midpipe after all