[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by JustinHEMI

"So the M2 engine will get this early oil/filter service too."

Completely unnecessary, but it's your car, of course.

Completely unnecessary?

Then why does BMW offer an early oil/filter service as part of its free scheduled service at 1200 miles or even as some have reported at less than 1200 miles.

Rather than completely unnecessary this service by BMW suggests the early oi/filter service is *necessary*.

I just choose to do it a bit sooner than 1200 miles. At 600 miles phase 2 of the break in begins which means RPMs can be raised to 5000 and speeds increased too. Seems like a good idea of one is going to run the engine up to 5K vs. 4K having fresh oil in the engine might be a good idea.

[JustinHEMI]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Completely unnecessary?

Yes, completely unnecessary.

As is topping it off when between min and max, also known as normal.

[zero21]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Completely unnecessary?

Then why does BMW offer an early oil/filter service as part of its free scheduled service at 1200 miles or even as some have reported at less than 1200 miles.

Rather than completely unnecessary this service by BMW suggests the early oi/filter service is *necessary*.

I just choose to do it a bit sooner than 1200 miles. At 600 miles phase 2 of the break in begins which means RPMs can be raised to 5000 and speeds increased too. Seems like a good idea of one is going to run the engine up to 5K vs. 4K having fresh oil in the engine might be a good idea.

It's 4500 and 5500RPM respectively.

[zero21]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

While you may have zero interest in running 0w-30 oil too bad your engine can't voice an opinion. 0W-XX oil offers better oil flow at cold start and during cold idle. That's important. And if the engine could talk I'm sure it would agree.

I still recall years ago on a Porsche forum some owners were voicing the opinion 0w-40 oil (the factory fill) was *too thin*. And switched to 5w-40 oil. An oil viscosity which Porsche happened to approve of but not at temperatures below -17F (-25C). Some owners learned the hard way how important oil flow at cold temperatures is when their car engines suffered cylinder/piston damage from insufficient oil due to used 5w-40 oil.

When you're talking about driving cars below NEGATIVE 17F, you have to realize your point is becoming moot.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by zero21

When you're talking about driving cars below NEGATIVE 17F, you have to realize your point is becoming moot.

We were below that temp on about 10 occasions last winter here, as is normal. Sometimes it is a week at a time where the temp doesn’t get above -30C (-22F). The M2 will need to cope with it, as one of our 2 daily driven cars.

[rdr2go]

Page 251 of my owner's manual says:
Drive at varying engine and road speeds, but do not exceed 5000 rpm and 106 mph, from 600-1200 drive varying engine and road springs, but do not exceed 6000 rpm or 130 mph
Avoid full load in gears 1 to 3

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by zero21

When you're talking about driving cars below NEGATIVE 17F, you have to realize your point is becoming moot.

Sure while I haven't encountered temperatures that low (0F maybe a few degrees less is as cold as it gets) where I live I have driven through the mountains of western states in the winter. Still don't think I ever encountered -17F but I could have.

Even if my M2 doesn't get used below 32F I see no reason to run 5w-30 oil especially when the factory calls for 0w-30 oil. I note with complicated cam and valve control (variable cam timing and variable valve lift) the oil does double duty as a lubricating fluid and a hydraulic fluid. Owners of other brands of cars who have have ventured to use a "thicker" oil have reported CEL with an error code that arises from the wrong oil being used.

My JCW has variable cam timing a variable valve lift. The variable (intake) valve lift is actually the "throttle". MINI calls for 0w-20 oil and that's what gets used.

My 2022 BMW 230i had something similar and 0w-20 oil was the recommended oil for that engine.

The M2 engine likewise has a similar setup.

I want the M2 engine's variable valve timing and lift feature to work as it is designed to work and for as long as possible. So I'll use 0w-30 oil as the factory calls for.

[zero21]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Sure while I haven't encountered temperatures that low (0F maybe a few degrees less is as cold as it gets) where I live I have driven through the mountains of western states in the winter. Still don't think I ever encountered -17F but I could have.

Even if my M2 doesn't get used below 32F I see no reason to run 5w-30 oil especially when the factory calls for 0w-30 oil. I note with complicated cam and valve control (variable cam timing and variable valve lift) the oil does double duty as a lubricating fluid and a hydraulic fluid. Owners of other brands of cars who have have ventured to use a "thicker" oil have reported CEL with an error code that arises from the wrong oil being used.

My JCW has variable cam timing a variable valve lift. The variable (intake) valve lift is actually the "throttle". MINI calls for 0w-20 oil and that's what gets used.

My 2022 BMW 230i had something similar and 0w-20 oil was the recommended oil for that engine.

The M2 engine likewise has a similar setup.

I want the M2 engine's variable valve timing and lift feature to work as it is designed to work and for as long as possible. So I'll use 0w-30 oil as the factory calls for.

The point I was really trying to make is that there isn't even a recommendation to operate the vehicle in those conditions, let alone worry about what type of oil is in it. You would have just as many other concerns besides oil: water lines, any hoses and seals, tires, brake pads, even the electrical systems. Operating a high performance vehicle in those conditions is bordering on nuts.

[KC87ZB]

Originally Posted by zero21

The point I was really trying to make is that there isn't even a recommendation to operate the vehicle in those conditions, let alone worry about what type of oil is in it. You would have just as many other concerns besides oil: water lines, any hoses and seals, tires, brake pads, even the electrical systems. Operating a high performance vehicle in those conditions is bordering on nuts.

I do think we can all agree on that

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by zero21

The point I was really trying to make is that there isn't even a recommendation to operate the vehicle in those conditions, let alone worry about what type of oil is in it. You would have just as many other concerns besides oil: water lines, any hoses and seals, tires, brake pads, even the electrical systems. Operating a high performance vehicle in those conditions is bordering on nuts.

My vehicles have to serve me and that includes if I want to use one in extreme cold (or heat).

While I don't necessarily try to use a vehicle in extreme cold (or extreme heat) sometimes I have no choice. Have had to travel to colder climes to handle family matters. Had to drive in snow/ice to help a family member get around. At other times found myself driving in temperature of 111F (and higher but no pics of the higher temperature).

Have had to drive myself to the ER a couple of times and wouldn't you know it was not in nice weather but in real cold weather. Sure my 1st choice of vehicle would not be my M2 but my experience is over the years with even 2 cars my daily is sometimes out of service in the shop for scheduled servicing or even with a problem.

While I would not normally drive my pleasure car I'm glad I can hop in my pleasure car and use it without fear of damaging the car/engine.

Car makers test cars by subjecting them to subzero temperatures (I think -40C) and then after some time (IIRC at least 24 hours) subjecting the engine to a cold start and immediately high RPMs. This is (it is claimed) to test/ensure the engine seals/gaskets/etc remain fluid tight even when subjected to cold start conditions. So I really have no concern about subjecting any of my cars to cold start/usage but of course I adhere to the factory's guidelines regarding engine speed/load until the engine is warmed up.

Some pics:

[Squidget]

Originally Posted by zero21

The point I was really trying to make is that there isn't even a recommendation to operate the vehicle in those conditions, let alone worry about what type of oil is in it.

Cars are absolutely tested to those temperatures and designed to perform there. Lot of cars sold in cold weather countries, especially in Europe.

[aerobod]

From what I remember, -32C (-26F) when I drove to work this particular day. Just a fairly normal winter day here in Alberta. The car is designed to handle it, as the M2 will be, as long as you have ground clearance, shouldn't be a problem. Usually hot ambient temperatures are a lot harder on the car than low ones:

[zero21]

Originally Posted by aerobod

From what I remember, -32C (-26F) when I drove to work this particular day. Just a fairly normal winter day here in Alberta. The car is designed to handle it, as the M2 will be, as long as you have ground clearance, shouldn't be a problem. Usually hot ambient temperatures are a lot harder on the car than low ones:

You guys are crazy.

[zero21]

Originally Posted by rk95

Was curious how detrimental it would be to stall the 6MT car during the break in?

It's not unless it becomes a repeated and drastic affair while moving.

[cmgbk75]

Originally Posted by T_U_D

Yes per my past break-in analysis on a non-M vehicle it came back as BMW 5W-30. This was a personal vehicle that I paid out of pocket to have the break-in procedure performed at 1500 miles.

FYI, Shell is the producer of BMW’s oils.

Edit, BTW the S58 uses a 0W-30 oil.

I just had the oil changed in my 30k mile E46 at the dealer and they used 0W-30 although the Manual suggests 5W-30. Being curious as to why I came across this;

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/why-bmws-sw...doesnt-matter#

[cmgbk75]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

My vehicles have to serve me and that includes if I want to use one in extreme cold (or heat).

While I don't necessarily try to use a vehicle in extreme cold (or extreme heat) sometimes I have no choice. Have had to travel to colder climes to handle family matters. Had to drive in snow/ice to help a family member get around. At other times found myself driving in temperature of 111F (and higher but no pics of the higher temperature).

Have had to drive myself to the ER a couple of times and wouldn't you know it was not in nice weather but in real cold weather. Sure my 1st choice of vehicle would not be my M2 but my experience is over the years with even 2 cars my daily is sometimes out of service in the shop for scheduled servicing or even with a problem.

While I would not normally drive my pleasure car I'm glad I can hop in my pleasure car and use it without fear of damaging the car/engine.

Car makers test cars by subjecting them to subzero temperatures (I think -40C) and then after some time (IIRC at least 24 hours) subjecting the engine to a cold start and immediately high RPMs. This is (it is claimed) to test/ensure the engine seals/gaskets/etc remain fluid tight even when subjected to cold start conditions. So I really have no concern about subjecting any of my cars to cold start/usage but of course I adhere to the factory's guidelines regarding engine speed/load until the engine is warmed up.

Some pics:

Is that GTO an ‘06?

[Squidget]

Did anyone link to SavageGeese's video on break in yet? If not: https://youtu.be/zg6xa2caG-I

FWIW, FYI, YMMV, etc.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by cmgbk75

Is that GTO an ‘06?

Yes. But no longer have the car. Had to get rid of it. Every time I took it in for service at the local Chevy dealer and at the Pontiac dealer where I bought it the tech would take the car for a hot lap around. (I had a trip/data logger in the car.)

Otherwise I would have kept the car. I liked it. Sure not a "real" GTO but something based on the Australian Holden but with a 6.0l 400hp all aluminum Chevy LS something engine, 6-speed manual, IRS and IIRC around 3700lbs weight.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by rk95

Was curious how detrimental it would be to stall the 6MT car during the break in?

Impossible to say. While the engine stops running it does so while under some load. Normally the engine is shut off with minimal load. (At idle the engine is probably making around 10hp.)

Still one should strive to avoid stalling the engine under any circumstances and at any time. Break in or post break in.

[zero21]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Yes. But no longer have the car. Had to get rid of it. Every time I took it in for service at the local Chevy dealer and at the Pontiac dealer where I bought it the tech would take the car for a hot lap around. (I had a trip/data logger in the car.)

Otherwise I would have kept the car. I liked it. Sure not a "real" GTO but something based on the Australian Holden but with a 6.0l 400hp all aluminum Chevy LS something engine, 6-speed manual, IRS and IIRC around 3700lbs weight.

It was a great car when it came out - no question. Shame it was mistreated.

[biggripper]

Originally Posted by rdr2go

I was fortunate enough to get a M2. I now have about 300 miles on it. Thinking about a quick road trip to acquaint myself with it better and break it in and have some fun.
Would there be any negative if I went much over 1200 mile point where you are supposed to take it in for BMW to do first service? For example, if I didn't get the 1200 mile service until 2000 miles or so?

Why not plan your road trip with a dealer stop incorporated into your journey? Plan an out-and-back trip with a dealer along they way around the 1200 mile mark so you can drive your M2 like you stole it all the way home.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by biggripper

Why not plan your road trip with a dealer stop incorporated into your journey? Plan an out-and-back trip with a dealer along they way around the 1200 mile mark so you can drive your M2 like you stole it all the way home.

That can work. Or not.

Left San Jose CA on a road trip east. I stopped at the Ford dealer in Needles and got my Mustang serviced no problem. (Almost bought a Lightning F150 while there...)

Years later I left KC MO area and headed to Oregon in my Porsche Boxster and the car needed a service when I pulled into Bend OR. Stopped at the Porsche dealer to get a service and the reception was down right chilly. "We don't do quicky lube jobs." Some back and forth and finally I was told one Porsche tech was out for training and the other was out sick. I asked if a BMW tech could do the service? Not like it was that complicated. I had done one or two already by that time at home.

Was told no. Porsche tech or not going to get done. Left. Completed my business in Eugene and then headed south into CA. Stopped at Niello Porsche in Sacramento. Was treated like I was royalty. What a great service experience. (Years later bought a MINI JCW from the Niello MINI dealer and had a very good experience.)

And more recently last January on my way to CA to help a family member move stopped at the MINI dealer in Albuquerque and got my MINI S serviced and the service experience was just great.

Service while on a trip is possible but best to call ahead and get an appointment.