[Geighty7]

I haven’t found any threads about this so I figured I’d ask. This is my 2nd G87 as the last one was involved in an accident.

Happy to be back in one, however I noticed when measuring finger gaps, my front driver side fender is a tad bit higher than the passenger.

Has anyone experienced this? You can’t tell visibly or when driving, but if you stick your fingers under there it’s apparent.

I measured and got about 5-6mm difference between the 2.

Is it not a myth that BMW M cars are like this from factory to overcompensate for driver weight ratio? Or do I just need to figure this out once I put the HAS on?

Would love feed back. Online I’m finding a bunch of different things but none pertaining to the G87 platform.

[abrandonment]

Oh interesting.

[Bumpinjeep]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

Has anyone experienced this? You can’t tell visibly or when driving, but if you stick your fingers under there it’s apparent.
I measured and got about 5-6mm difference between the 2.

Your car is on shipping blocks that the dealer forgot to remove. Take it back and have them remove the blocks and realign.

[M2siast]

There’s no difference in the gap measure from the top of the wheel to the fender.

Two possibilities:

1- you measured the car in an uneven surface
2- your springs need time to break-in. Don’t worry too much since your car has less than 50 miles.

But curious minds wonder: if you can’t see the difference, what made you go measure it?

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by Bumpinjeep

Your car is on shipping blocks that the dealer forgot to remove. Take it back and have them remove the blocks and realign.

False. I checked. Rides fine.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by M2siast

There’s no difference in the gap measure from the top of the wheel to the fender.

Two possibilities:

1- you measured the car in an uneven surface
2- your springs need time to break-in. Don’t worry too much since your car has less than 50 miles.

But curious minds wonder: if you can’t see the difference, what made you go measure it?

My OCD lol. I inspect the car to its entirety. I think it’s the latter, needs to pick up. Who knows, could have been uneven surface in garage. Good calls here.

[M2siast]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

My OCD lol. I inspect the car to its entirety. I think it’s the latter, needs to pick up. Who knows, could have been uneven surface in garage. Good calls here.

5mm is negligible though in case they don’t settle the same.

Be more concerned with the alignment, most these cars are coming disaligned from factory. Be very thorough about that (check your wheel position when driving straight and any hint of wandering at highway speeds) and take it back for an alignment as soon as possible if needed.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by M2siast

5mm is negligible though in case they don’t settle the same.

Be more concerned with the alignment, most these cars are coming disaligned from factory. Be very thorough about that (check your wheel position when driving straight and any hint of wandering at highway speeds) and take it back for an alignment as soon as possible if needed.

This one is not nearly as off as the last, but I will be getting it re-aligned for sure. In the weirdest way, this G87 feels much better out the gate than the last.

What I mean by that is, it’s way tighter feeling. The clutch seems tighter and more engaging. Not sure if my last was a dud or this one is just built better. The engine even feels torquier. Even the body panels are more even.

I noticed it almost immediately. I’m 270 miles in from 11 miles on pick up yesterday. Thorough break in so far.

[rk95]

[QUOTE=M2siast;30873087]5mm is negligible though in case they don’t settle the same.

Be more concerned with the alignment, most these cars are coming disaligned from factory. Be very thorough about that (check your wheel position when driving straight and any hint of wandering at highway speeds) and take it back for an alignment as soon as possible if needed.

I’m glad I’m not crazy. I noticed my steering wheel wasn’t perfectly centered.

[Skooba1231]

I went from a 23 HEA to a 24 a few months ago and I felt exactly the same way! I also feel like the car got more quiet (exhaust)

Originally Posted by Geighty7

This one is not nearly as off as the last, but I will be getting it re-aligned for sure. In the weirdest way, this G87 feels much better out the gate than the last.

What I mean by that is, it’s way tighter feeling. The clutch seems tighter and more engaging. Not sure if my last was a dud or this one is just built better. The engine even feels torquier. Even the body panels are more even.

I noticed it almost immediately. I’m 270 miles in from 11 miles on pick up yesterday. Thorough break in so far.

[Boetie]

If you level it out, and get into the car, driver side will then be a bit lower again.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by Boetie

If you level it out, and get into the car, driver side will then be a bit lower again.

Yeah exactly. Wonder if M cars come like this from factory however or just a fluke here.

[Kevin_The_Clean1]

Originally Posted by Boetie

If you level it out, and get into the car, driver side will then be a bit lower again.

Exactly.

Originally Posted by Geighty7

Yeah exactly. Wonder if M cars come like this from factory however or just a fluke here.

I doubt it's a fluke & it's probably designed this way on purpose.

[Hit_Apex]

Driver weight compensation.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by Geighty7

I haven’t found any threads about this so I figured I’d ask. This is my 2nd G87 as the last one was involved in an accident.

Happy to be back in one, however I noticed when measuring finger gaps, my front driver side fender is a tad bit higher than the passenger.

Has anyone experienced this? You can’t tell visibly or when driving, but if you stick your fingers under there it’s apparent.

I measured and got about 5-6mm difference between the 2.

Is it not a myth that BMW M cars are like this from factory to overcompensate for driver weight ratio? Or do I just need to figure this out once I put the HAS on?

Would love feed back. Online I’m finding a bunch of different things but none pertaining to the G87 platform.

You are measuring --- more like estimating -- body panel fits. That space between the fender and the tire is probably (almost certainly) within manufacturing/assembly line tolerances.

If it weren't then the top of the fender would be higher than the hood and the other fender.

I have never encountered anything official -- from the factory -- regarding the ride height -- which is *not* what you are measuring -- to compensate for the driver and his weight.

Some alignment shops make a "big deal" adding ballast on the driver's side.

But pretty much what for example Porsche has in its factory service manual for its Turbo is what I have found -- when I have looked into it -- other factories call for.

First regarding ride height there is this:

As with the 911 Carrera (996) models, there is no adjustment facility for changing the vehicle height!

This applies to both the front and the rear axles!

Since the vehicle height cannot be adjusted, it is not possible to adjust (fine adjustment) the wheel−load difference between left and right at the rear and front axles!

The varying strength of pads between coil springs and spring seats on the right and left spring struts on the front and rear axles is not intended for changing the vehicle height but for compensating for differences in coil−spring load groups.

Because of the different equipment versions (additional equipment), a greater wheel−load difference between the left and right is permissible than previously was the case in Porsche suspension alignment for the 911 Carrera (996) (over 20 kg is possible). This is partly the result of heavier components compared with standard equipment and partly results from additional components that are asymmetrically arranged.


Have to note the above refers to vehicle height which is *not* what you measured.

Then there is the following:

In order to exclude erroneous measurements, the following preconditions must be met before alignment and the following points should be given special attention:

Empty weight of vehicle in accordance with DIN 70020, i.e. car ready for the road, with full fuel tank, spare wheel (collapsible wheel) and tools. 


Ball−joint and wheel−bearing play in order (wheel−bearing play cannot be adjusted).

Tyre pressure in accordance with regulations, fairly uniform tyre tread.


There's about a page of other items but the above items are the only sentences that applies to the vehicle.

Talk a walk on a dealer's lot and check a number of new vehicles like you checked your vehicle. I would not be surprised you find some variation similar to what you found with your vehicle.

[baron95]

I don't know about ride height, but my M2 has 0.53 degrees front camber difference L to R.

Annoying as hell since it's is less camber on the left and most of the tracks I run are clockwise.

[Geighty7]

Originally Posted by baron95

I don't know about ride height, but my M2 has 0.53 degrees front camber difference L to R.

Annoying as hell since it's is less camber on the left and most of the tracks I run are clockwise.

Odd, I wonder why that is? Surley they accounted for that during the R&D but that doesn’t seem to serve any good, does it? I understand why my ride height might be 5-6mm higher due to weight distribution for a single driver but unsure about camber.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by baron95

I don't know about ride height, but my M2 has 0.53 degrees front camber difference L to R.

Annoying as hell since it's is less camber on the left and most of the tracks I run are clockwise.

Couldn't that camber diff could be addressed with an alignment?

[baron95]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Couldn't that camber diff could be addressed with an alignment?

Sadly, no camber adjustment in BMW’s front suspension. Only toe is adjustable in front. It’s such an old and basic McPearson set up.

You have to go with aftermarket camber plates to have adjustability.

Rear suspension is fully adjustable, but mine is dead on in the rear.

[Shadak]

[QUOTE=rk95;30873128]

Originally Posted by M2siast

5mm is negligible though in case they don’t settle the same.

Be more concerned with the alignment, most these cars are coming disaligned from factory. Be very thorough about that (check your wheel position when driving straight and any hint of wandering at highway speeds) and take it back for an alignment as soon as possible if needed.

I’m glad I’m not crazy. I noticed my steering wheel wasn’t perfectly centered.

I had it from day one, was no issue to get it aligned under warranty but it is a bit odd so many of them are not centered.

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by baron95

Sadly, no camber adjustment in BMW’s front suspension. Only toe is adjustable in front. It’s such an old and basic McPearson set up.

You have to go with aftermarket camber plates to have adjustability.

Rear suspension is fully adjustable, but mine is dead on in the rear.

Was afraid of no front camber adjustment.

However, with struts in some cases some camber (and caster) adjustment can be had by loosening the strut fasteners and moving the strut top in the proper direction to change camber (or caster).

I am not saying do this. But if it is possible and sanctioned by BMW a BMW tech should know this and with car in for an alignment could have the camber dialed in using this technique.

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by RockCrusher

Was afraid of no front camber adjustment.

However, with struts in some cases some camber (and caster) adjustment can be had by loosening the strut fasteners and moving the strut top in the proper direction to change camber (or caster).

I am not saying do this. But if it is possible and sanctioned by BMW a BMW tech should know this and with car in for an alignment could have the camber dialed in using this technique.

This was only possible up to the E90 and other similar era BMWs that had a factory alignment pin that could be removed and slots for the strut top bearing mounting studs. ‘F’ and ‘G’ Series BMWs don’t have the slots.