[force_feed]

Lately I've noticed my car doesn't pull as hard as it use to.

A few days after getting my D-CAN cable in and trying to set everything up to code my car had a half engine light come on. As soon as I got home I noticed the rattling.

[force_feed]

OK I pulled the engine cover off and found the two vacuum lines by the oil filter busted.

I replaced those and I'm still getting the half engine light (30ff) and no power.

[force_feed]

I changed the vacuum lines next to the oil filter due to them being cracked. But it didn't fix the 30ff code.

I did a boost leak test on the car today and to my surprise, everything was sealed up.

So I did as advised on N54tech and was going to check the vacuum on top of each canister. Found a broken nipple on one of them

I eliminated the canisters and everything is working great. The car even feels faster than it did before, so that's a plus.

I'm not sure if I'm going to put the canisters back in. If I do I'm going to mod mine with brass barbed fittings on top and bottom.

[e92_enthusiast_1]

Interesting, thanks for sharing what you found. So there's a vacuum canister delete mod or did i misread your post?

Originally Posted by force_feed

I changed the vacuum lines next to the oil filter due to them being cracked. But it didn't fix the 30ff code.

I did a boost leak test on the car today and to my surprise, everything was sealed up.

So I did as advised on N54tech and was going to check the vacuum on top of each canister. Found a broken nipple on one of them

I eliminated the canisters and everything is working great. The car even feels faster than it did before, so that's a plus.

I'm not sure if I'm going to put the canisters back in. If I do I'm going to mod mine with brass barbed fittings on top and bottom.

[galahad05]

Thanks for sharing the solution with us ff. I'll bet this will be useful for someone around here soon enough.

[TrAcK TRaP]

is the rattle still there?

[ef11]

Force Feed,

Anyway you can post pictures of what exactly you checked? I installed a chargepipe and DCI and am now getting a 30FF boost leak. I took it by a shop and they said the install looks good so they have no idea and I shouldn't be getting that code.

I did blow the OEM chargepipe off my car after only a few HARD pulls with the JB4 (blew hard enough that the bolted on support part even completely sheared off and the CClip portion was obliterated), so I'm thinking maybe this blow off caused a potential issue with my vacuum lines..

[e92_enthusiast_1]

The only real concern if you didn't do the install yourself is, did the shop transfer the O-ring from the old CP to the new one? Could be it was overlooked and not put on. It would look fine install wise from the outside but it could cause a minor boost leak.

If not then yeah check everything Force checked. All the vacuum lines.

Originally Posted by ericfox11

Force Feed,

Anyway you can post pictures of what exactly you checked? I instaleld a chargepipe and DCI and am now getting a 30FF boost leak. I took it by a shop and they said the install looks good so they have no idea and I shouldn't be getting that code.

[ef11]

Originally Posted by e92_enthusiast_1

The only real concern if you didn't do the install yourself is, did the shop transfer the O-ring from the old CP to the new one? Could be it was overlooked and not put on. It would look fine install wise from the outside but it could cause a minor boost leak.

If not then yeah check everything Force checked. All the vacuum lines.

I installed it myself so I am 100% sure I installed the O-ring ha. The only other thing I can thing of is a disconnect between the lower chargepipe and the intercooler...which it could be. But I need a lift to get under my car and take off the pan and check it all out which I haven't been able to do yet. The lower chargepipe to the intercooler feels strong though so i'm very 50/50 on it.

I need a picture to see what he checked. MPower checked my vacuum lines to my diverter valves and all looked good. The ones that go to the canisters, I have absolutely no idea what the OP is talking about so I really need a pic ha

[MiniXP]

Does anyone know of a good way to pressure test these lines?

Mine look fine visually, but I would like to pressure test them in case there are any leaks that are not visible. I am getting a waste gate rattle and would like to make sure it isn't just these lines before I bring it to the dealer.

If I disconnect the ones near the oil filter, should they each hold pressure and if not what would I need to do to get them to hold pressure? I was thinking I could rig up a way to use a bicycle pump with a gauge to see if they are holding pressure.

[force_feed]

There isn't a vacuum canister delete mod, at least I couldn't find any info on it from my search of the forums and Google.

The first thing I did was inspect and replace the vacuum lines behind the oil filter.

The canister was broke and I wanted to get my car back on the road so I removed both of them completely.

These are the vacuum canisters




This was the broken nipple

[Gizm0]

Originally Posted by force_feed

There isn't a vacuum canister delete mod, at least I couldn't find any info on it from my search of the forums and Google.

The canister was broke and I wanted to get my car back on the road so I removed both of them completely.

These are the vacuum canisters



This was the broken nipple

Here is a simple cheap fix...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870905

I would put the vacuum canisters back on. Without them, it will take longer for the wastegate to completely close and accentuate the turbo lag.

[force_feed]

Originally Posted by Gizm0

Here is a simple cheap fix...

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=870905

I seen that during my search. Unfortunately I had my car torn down and no ride to go to the parts store. So I took a chance and removed the canisters completely.

I plan on modding the canisters with barb fittings and putting them back into the car. But sense removing them I've had no problems what so ever, and honestly the car pulls harder than it was before the 30ff code. Maybe it was due to the cracked vacuum lines behind the oil filter, I'm not entirely sure.

[force_feed]

Originally Posted by N54CherryHill

is the rattle still there?

The rattle is gone completely! I'll record a video later.

[force_feed]

Updated video (no rattle)

This is what it looks like with no vacuum canister




This is how I hooked it up


I need to wash my engine bay

[force_feed]

Originally Posted by MiniXP

Does anyone know of a good way to pressure test these lines?

Mine look fine visually, but I would like to pressure test them in case there are any leaks that are not visible. I am getting a waste gate rattle and would like to make sure it isn't just these lines before I bring it to the dealer.

If I disconnect the ones near the oil filter, should they each hold pressure and if not what would I need to do to get them to hold pressure? I was thinking I could rig up a way to use a bicycle pump with a gauge to see if they are holding pressure.

I'm not sure. I think a smoke test at almost any general mechanic shop should work.

In my opinion I don't think you would be able to pressurize the entire intake manifold bc you will constantly loose pressure due to valves being open. But I could be wrong!

[MiniXP]

Originally Posted by force_feed

I'm not sure. I think a smoke test at almost any general mechanic shop should work.

In my opinion I don't think you would be able to pressurize the entire intake manifold bc you will constantly loose pressure due to valves being open. But I could be wrong!

That's what I was thinking, but I had read about someone blowing into the lines to find a leak. Maybe they were just able to hear air coming out of where it was leaking.

[ef11]

Originally Posted by force_feed

There isn't a vacuum canister delete mod, at least I couldn't find any info on it from my search of the forums and Google.

The first thing I did was inspect and replace the vacuum lines behind the oil filter.

The canister was broke and I wanted to get my car back on the road so I removed both of them completely.

These are the vacuum canisters




This was the broken nipple

I'm confused by why a broken nipple would throw a code but then just removing the canisters did not? Did you plug the lines completely once you pulled the canisters or did you just leave them open?

I had a shop check the vacuum lines that connect to the OEM diverter valves and they looked fine so I think my issue might be by the canister or by the oil filter if this is indeed a vacuum line problem.

[BMWho]

I have the same rattle when I'm idle and rev it.

So the cause was a broken nipple on the canister? That's it?

[force_feed]

Originally Posted by ericfox11

I'm confused by why a broken nipple would throw a code but then just removing the canisters did not? Did you plug the lines completely once you pulled the canisters or did you just leave them open?

I had a shop check the vacuum lines that connect to the OEM diverter valves and they looked fine so I think my issue might be by the canister or by the oil filter if this is indeed a vacuum line problem.

I was getting a 30ff code for low boost. The code was caused by a vacuum leak to one of the wastegate solenoids via the canister. Basically only one turbo was functioning properly.




By eliminating the canister I eliminated the vacuum leak. I connect the hose that went to the top of the canister to the line that went in the bottom of the canister. I did that for both canisters.

[force_feed]

Originally Posted by BMWho

I have the same rattle when I'm idle and rev it.

So the cause was a broken nipple on the canister? That's it?

I'm thinking the noise is caused by the WG not having any vacuum pressure causing something to vibrate or whatever.

[fun2drive]

Yep that makes a lot of sense...
I think that is right regarding the rattle...