[F30RiK]

My car : 330I 2006 6MT

My rear differential gear ratio was 3.15 OEM, I put an 3.64, what a difference, car is so much faster. To give you an idea, in 6th speed at 120kh I was at 2500rpm, now Im at almost 3000.

They should of put this gear ratio when they sold the car, its night and day.

Now the worse, UUC transmission mount (The black one), A reputable shop (Vag Motorsport) Installed them, so the installation was properly done. It vibrated SO MUCH, its crazy, I almost tought my car was broken.

I putted back the stock ones tonight, no more vibration.

So Be aware if you put these mounts

[Route 16]

i have the blue mounts not installed yet. what do you think about those?

[F30RiK]

the blue mounts are replacement for the red one's. If mines (the black ones, for Street use) vibrated that much, yours should be worst

I dont think these are good for a Daily drive

[Route 16]

damn

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Rikrikrik

My car : 330I 2006 6MT

My rear differential gear ratio was 3.15 OEM, I put an 3.64, what a difference, car is so much faster. To give you an idea, in 6th speed at 120kh I was at 2500rpm, now Im at almost 3000.

They should of put this gear ratio when they sold the car, its night and day.

Now the worse, UUC transmission mount (The black one), A reputable shop (Vag Motorsport) Installed them, so the installation was properly done. It vibrated SO MUCH, its crazy, I almost tought my car was broken.

I putted back the stock ones tonight, no more vibration.

So Be aware if you put these mounts

I'm running the red ones with the enforcer cups, no big deal at all. And the engine mounts are 75D Shore hardness Polyurethane parts from AKG Motorsport, about the same hardness as Delrin. The differential and rear subframe mounts and bushings are all Turner Motorsports Delrin parts with aluminum cores. Still no big deal. Vibration is non-existent above 2K rpm. Negligible from idle to 2K rpm but it's a subjective thing so most might not like it I suppose.

Installation all done by Classic BMW Motorsports race team in Plano, TX and currently at about 7-8K miles on the build without a single issue.

The clutch is a dual solid friction disc Clutchmasters 850 stand type design with a billet flywheel and it's still not an issue for vibration even with a solid body mounted CAE Ultra Shifter and AKG Motorsport DSSR. Not sure why you're having so much vibration.

Differential is a Performance Gearing LSD geared down to 3.73 from 3.23 to make sixth the 1:1 gear and get rid of the pointless overdrive. Difficult to drive off the line but vastly better than stock through the gears. Agreed that this final ratio, or equivalent, should be standard.

[edit] And yes, this is my daily [/edit]

[edit again] The increased vibration with just the trans mounts _might_ be due to basically providing a pivot point for the engine on its stock mounts to vibrate worse than it would otherwise. With the rigid engine and trans and diff mounts the engine has to shake a lot more mass so the vibration excursion would be less. Might explain why you found the vibration so much worse than I'd expect. But the solution is probably not acceptable either. Have you considered more rigid engine mounts? [/edit]

[Volasko]

Was it just a matter of swapping the rear diff with an AT diff? Was there any other components you needed for the swap? I am really interested in doing this.

[Taskmaster]

I had UUC mounts (with enforcer cups) in my Z3 - the vibrated like crazy! I had the shop readjust them, which took away most of the vibration, but you would always get this crazy LOUD resonance when I coasted from 5000RPM down.

Go with Rogue Engineering.

[hassmaschine]

I ran a solid diff bushing once. I lasted about a week. Unless you're pretty much racing your car wheel to wheel, it's not worth it IMO.

poly subframe and motor mounts seem to be fine. avoid solid diff & transmission mounts unless you really like NVH.

FYI, the DME is coded to your diff. I don't know what it will affect specifically but it uses it to detect what gear you are in. 3.15 to 3.64 is enough of a difference that it will think you're in the wrong gear. it would be trivial to change for me but if you're getting a tune you'd want to let them know.

[TheSt|G]

Avoid anything made by UUC. They are easily the worst company for BMW aftermarket parts.

If you are looking for a stiffer trans mount, get the M3 or Rogue Engineering mounts.

[justpete]

Not arguing with you guys at all, just somewhat confused why everyone seems to get unacceptable levels of NVH with solid mounts, trans, diff, or otherwise. And the UUC mounts look like new. Admittedly not that many miles but no issues yet. If they go I'll just switch to solid aluminum mounts and be done with it. The engine's going to get blueprinted and balanced and get an ATI damper (if they ever finish it...) so this shouldn't be an issue. Certainly doesn't seem to be one now.

Absolutely not the slightest bit of howling from them at all. Some gear whine when lifting but that's no surprise, it'd be odd if there wasn't any and yes it comes from the transmission.

[edit] Maybe it's due to running Red Line MTL but that seems like a real stretch... [/edit]

If there's any from the diff it's drowned out by the trans. Still isn't a problem and not audible over the radio really. The exhaust is much louder.

BTW, the vibration shows up on the datalogger as a lateral component, no surprise there either. Maybe I'm immune to NVH from driving so many shitty cars for years, dunno.

Help me understand what the deal is with NVH, seriously I'm not understanding here at all. Is it because a silent, smooth ride is expected or desired? If so I can't for the life of me reconcile this with track performance and maybe that's the problem in and of itself. Nobody who would want a quiet smooth ride is looking for track-like performance from their daily, is that the deal? Maybe I'm just not into compromise or something. Or completely nutz, that's always a possibility..

[justpete]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I ran a solid diff bushing once. I lasted about a week. Unless you're pretty much racing your car wheel to wheel, it's not worth it IMO.

poly subframe and motor mounts seem to be fine. avoid solid diff & transmission mounts unless you really like NVH.

FYI, the DME is coded to your diff. I don't know what it will affect specifically but it uses it to detect what gear you are in. 3.15 to 3.64 is enough of a difference that it will think you're in the wrong gear. it would be trivial to change for me but if you're getting a tune you'd want to let them know.

Is it possible to change the DME setting with an Autel MaxiSYS Mini? Haven't dug into the system with it yet so please forgive the stupid question.

Thanks very much

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

I had UUC mounts (with enforcer cups) in my Z3 - the vibrated like crazy! I had the shop readjust them, which took away most of the vibration, but you would always get this crazy LOUD resonance when I coasted from 5000RPM down.

Go with Rogue Engineering.

Was it really loud gear whine or something else added to the whine?

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by justpete

Help me understand what the deal is with NVH, seriously I'm not understanding here at all. Is it because a silent, smooth ride is expected or desired? If so I can't for the life of me reconcile this with track performance and maybe that's the problem in and of itself. Nobody who would want a quiet smooth ride is looking for track-like performance from their daily, is that the deal? Maybe I'm just not into compromise or something. Or completely nutz, that's always a possibility..

In a more general sense, I think most people who mod their car have a very difficult time reconciling what they think they need in terms of performance/performance feel, and what they actually want. You see it expressed frequently in those who choose to mod very aggressively, then sell their car shortly after for the next project.

The amusing part is that someone who mods exactly to my own taste, I'm frequently questioned by others as to why I did not elect to be more aggressive in my own car. They instantly assume it must be a track focused car and question the decisions made, despite frequent statements on my part that DDing is far and away its primary function.

[Taskmaster]

Originally Posted by justpete

Was it really loud gear whine or something else added to the whine?

Probably gear wine, maybe?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheSt|G

In a more general sense, I think most people who mod their car have a very difficult time reconciling what they think they need in terms of performance/performance feel, and what they actually want. You see it expressed frequently in those who choose to mod very aggressively, then sell their car shortly after for the next project.

The amusing part is that someone who mods exactly to my own taste, I'm frequently questioned by others as to why I did not elect to be more aggressive in my own car. They instantly assume it must be a track focused car and question the decisions made, despite frequent statements on my part that DDing is far and away its primary function.

Thanks very much, this helps clarify the issue. I guess my definition of a daily driver is radically different than that of virtually anyone else.

[justpete]

Originally Posted by TheAxiom

Probably gear wine, maybe?

May be. Maybe it was coupled well enough to set up a resonance that might not otherwise exist. Might be car dependent, dunno. Sucks either way though.

[TheSt|G]

Originally Posted by justpete

Thanks very much, this helps clarify the issue. I guess my definition of a daily driver is radically different than that of virtually anyone else.

Pretty much. My brother is in a similar camp to you, where my primary focus is fun, followed by comfort.

[F30RiK]

Originally Posted by Volasko

Was it just a matter of swapping the rear diff with an AT diff? Was there any other components you needed for the swap? I am really interested in doing this.

I took my differential from the same car (A/T 330I), nothing else you need, everything is bolt on. I paid 300$ for the diff and 200$ for the installation (You could DIY Its seems to be pretty easy)

[F30RiK]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I ran a solid diff bushing once. I lasted about a week. Unless you're pretty much racing your car wheel to wheel, it's not worth it IMO.

poly subframe and motor mounts seem to be fine. avoid solid diff & transmission mounts unless you really like NVH.

FYI, the DME is coded to your diff. I don't know what it will affect specifically but it uses it to detect what gear you are in. 3.15 to 3.64 is enough of a difference that it will think you're in the wrong gear. it would be trivial to change for me but if you're getting a tune you'd want to let them know.

I dont think so, my car is 6MT and I didn't see ANY change related to the DME or error codes popping.

There's no difference except the car seems to be A LOT faster, DTC stil work perfectly also.

[F30RiK]

BTW With the UUC Transmission mount, I double check yesterday to be sure they were properly installed and not overtorqued, everything was fine.

At first, I tought they were something wrong with my differential or driveshaft, I put the car in neutral (No more differential or driveshaft movement), and I reved the engine and the vibration was there from 2k and up, but CRAZY vibration. I almost suspected something wrong with my engine.

Took them off put back OEM one, smooth as butter now

[justpete]

Originally Posted by Rikrikrik

BTW With the UUC Transmission mount, I double check yesterday to be sure they were properly installed and not overtorqued, everything was fine.

At first, I tought they were something wrong with my differential or driveshaft, I put the car in neutral (No more differential or driveshaft movement), and I reved the engine and the vibration was there from 2k and up, but CRAZY vibration. I almost suspected something wrong with my engine.

Took them off put back OEM one, smooth as butter now

Are you running the original engine mounts?

[edit] You literally can't feel but the slightest vibration even at idle even when holding on to the wheel. Above 2K there's nothing but the road. Suspecting that not running the same type of mounts down the entire driveline is a likely source of excessive vibration. [/edit]

[mlifxs]

I tried the black mounts a year ago, no enforcer cups. NVH was more than I expected. Didn't make a stink about it on forum as I thought perhaps I screwed up the DIY. UUC was kind enough to take them back.

I plan to install new Lemforder OEM mounts this weekend as my currents have over 130k on them. I'll post anything unusual but I'm not expecting anything.