[mikewin]

Today I was driving on the highway on comfort mode and got a "Drivetrain Malfunction". I drive a 2015 BMW 335i and the car has 890 miles on it. I got this car a few months ago.

I was wondering maybe if it was my aftermarket exhaust that i added 3 weeks ago, that could caused this malfunction. Am I wrong?

[JoshVass]

what exhaust did you get?.... I doubt the exhaust has anything to do with the drive train malfunction. Just take the car to the dealer

[mikewin]

i have a top speed pro 1 Catback street exhaust.

Should i put back the oem exhaust before i bring it into BMW or would they void my warranty if i leave the aftermarket exhaust?

[RoundelM3]

Bring it to the dealership and have them check the codes. I'd wager it's a bad aux cooling fan. This has happened twice on my '13 335i and was quickly repaired under warranty both times.

Warranties are not voided for aftermarket exhausts, unless you have an aftermarket DP, and even then it's questionable. Your exhaust has nothing to do with a "drivetrain malfunction".

[JoshVass]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Bring it to the dealership and have them check the codes. I'd wager it's a bad aux cooling fan. This has happened twice on my '13 335i and was quickly repaired under warranty both times.

Warranties are not voided for aftermarket exhausts, unless you have an aftermarket DP, and even then it's questionable. Your exhaust has nothing to do with a "drivetrain malfunction".

+1

[JoshVass]

Let us know what the dealer says

[RPM90]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Bring it to the dealership and have them check the codes. I'd wager it's a bad aux cooling fan. This has happened twice on my '13 335i and was quickly repaired under warranty both times.

Warranties are not voided for aftermarket exhausts, unless you have an aftermarket DP, and even then it's questionable. Your exhaust has nothing to do with a "drivetrain malfunction".

I have a 335i Msport AT.
All winter longer if the outside temp is below 32F my oil temp will NOT rise above it's minimal resting point. This has been going on since it's been really cold in the Chicago area.

This past week the temps have been above 32F. The other day the temp was around 52F and I drove home from work, this is about a 15 mile trip about 75% highway speeds around 75-80mph. The oil temp gauge actually moved to the next notch above it's minimal level.

I mention this because about 2 or so weeks ago it was really F-ing cold and I was headed home from work and I got that "drivetrain malfunction" flash onto my screen for about a minute or so and then it went away. It hasn't been back sense.
Before that happened, for about a week I had the yellow engine symbol light up, which indicates an emissions problem.
Temps went above 32F and that light went away. I did check the gas cap as that can light up emissions issues, but our cars actually have a specific warning symbol if it is the gas cap, not the yellow engine symbol.

This morning it was right above 32F and I drove to work the oil temp did not rise above the min mark.
Something isn't right and I know it's not, but every time I take the car in I get the "no problem found" or "couldn't duplicate customer issue/complaint".

I think it's thermostat related because even though it's been really f-ing cold this winter I don't recall my HVAC being this low in heating efficiency.
It starts to blow warm air fairly quickly within about 5-7 minutes even when near 0F, but then it gets to a certain warm temp and never goes higher.
I'm comparing this to what I remember last winter when it was cold as well.
The HVAC would get much hotter.

When the exterior temps are below 32F and lower and you drive your 3 for 15 minutes or longer how high does your oil temp get?

[mikewin]

Originally Posted by roundel335

Bring it to the dealership and have them check the codes. I'd wager it's a bad aux cooling fan. This has happened twice on my '13 335i and was quickly repaired under warranty both times.

Warranties are not voided for aftermarket exhausts, unless you have an aftermarket DP, and even then it's questionable. Your exhaust has nothing to do with a "drivetrain malfunction".

I do have an aftermarket dp catback exhaust. But again, i've been asking around and people had said the same thing about " warranty do not void aftermarket exhaust."
As for the drivetrain, the day i got the message i immediately turn off the engine and turned it back on and the message went away. i haven't had it come back on yet. not sure if it was just an error or not.

[RoundelM3]

RPM90 - sometimes it takes awhile to get that temp needle off the peg, but mine does get north of 200 in sub-freezing temps. We don't have that many below-freezing days here in SE North Carolina, but we've had a few back in February. Could be your temp gauge or its sensor isn't working properly. It would make sense that you'd get the yellow engine light if the ECU didn't think your oil/coolant temps were normal, which would cause the car to continue to run a little rich as it does in startup mode. Did the high-idle cycle go off after 30 seconds or so on a cold start? That could be an indicator.

Mikewin - yes, that's typical for an aux-fan malfunction. You can turn the car off and back on again and it goes away, but then it comes back. When I scanned my codes after having this occur, it did indicate a fault with the aux cooling fan. This is specific to M-Sport cars because they have that extra fan/radiator where the other model lines don't. Definitely worth having it looked into. Sometimes it will also manifest as a limp-mode incident, and after the car cools down a bit, it goes away, but it comes back.

[mikewin]

Originally Posted by JoshVass

Let us know what the dealer says

thank you for the help JoshVass.
Will bring in next week, made an appointment already and will let you know!

[mikewin]

Originally Posted by roundel335

RPM90 - sometimes it takes awhile to get that temp needle off the peg, but mine does get north of 200 in sub-freezing temps. We don't have that many below-freezing days here in SE North Carolina, but we've had a few back in February. Could be your temp gauge or its sensor isn't working properly. It would make sense that you'd get the yellow engine light if the ECU didn't think your oil/coolant temps were normal, which would cause the car to continue to run a little rich as it does in startup mode. Did the high-idle cycle go off after 30 seconds or so on a cold start? That could be an indicator.

Mikewin - yes, that's typical for an aux-fan malfunction. You can turn the car off and back on again and it goes away, but then it comes back. When I scanned my codes after having this occur, it did indicate a fault with the aux cooling fan. This is specific to M-Sport cars because they have that extra fan/radiator where the other model lines don't. Definitely worth having it looked into. Sometimes it will also manifest as a limp-mode incident, and after the car cools down a bit, it goes away, but it comes back.

thank you for advice, i will definitely bring the car in to get it looked at!

[mikewin]

Originally Posted by JoshVass

Let us know what the dealer says

I went to the dealer today and I just got a call back today telling me that the wastegate was sticky causing too much pressure from the turbos.
They told me that they will change out the turbos and it will be an 5 hour job.

[Buckeyes]

Originally Posted by mikewin

I went to the dealer today and I just got a call back today telling me that the wastegate was sticky causing too much pressure from the turbos.
They told me that they will change out the turbos and it will be an 5 hour job.

Did the dealer say anything about the second turbo?

[JoshVass]

Originally Posted by mikewin

I went to the dealer today and I just got a call back today telling me that the wastegate was sticky causing too much pressure from the turbos.
They told me that they will change out the turbos and it will be an 5 hour job.

Wow, I cant believe something like that would happen to a car with less then 1k miles on it. I just hit 1,100 miles on my car today.

Good thing it's covered under warranty.

I'm taking my car to the dealer next week, for a "ticking"/"clicking" sound when driving over 20mph. Only noticeable when the windows are down and really noticeable when driving in a indoor parking lot and/or next to a wall/divider.

I've read here on the forums a lot of cars with the dimpled and slotted M performance break rotors have this issue do to "air" moving over the rotors, never heard of that causing the sound I hear. But they say it's normal because they have taken their cars to the dealer and dealer states nothing wrong etc...

Anyways, just a quick vent there lol.

Let us when you get the car back! Good luck!

[RoundelM3]

Originally Posted by mikewin

I went to the dealer today and I just got a call back today telling me that the wastegate was sticky causing too much pressure from the turbos.
They told me that they will change out the turbos and it will be an 5 hour job.

This doesn't jive with reality...the F30 N55 engine has ONE turbo, and if the wastegate sticks open, you don't get any boost. If it sticks shut, it doesn't release the exhaust pressure straight into the exhaust effectively bypassing the compressor in the turbo when you let off the accelerator so it won't overstress the turbo. "Too much pressure" wouldn't cause or feel like limp mode, but too little certainly would. I'd ask to speak to the tech assigned to your car and get the real story.

[Jera_Jakerz]

I got same thing, doing some logs to get my avg ign down after recently trying to move the ER chargepipe clamp which resulted in it falling down, basically I have a boost leak when I got over 10 psi.