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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Help! Brake caliper guide pins keep turning!



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      11-03-2015, 01:12 PM   #1
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Help! Brake caliper guide pins keep turning!

I need immediate assistance. I was trying to finish my brake job by inserting the brake caliper sliding bolts. The top one went in fine, no issue. The bottom one on the other head just keeps turning. No matter how much pressure I apply it wont go in. Is there any trick to this? I tried to insert the top pin into the bottom slot and it wont go in. Any help please!!
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      11-03-2015, 01:21 PM   #2
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Pull the pins from the caliper. Take the caliper off the carrier. Hang the caliper by some wire from the spring so it's out of the way. Then look at the threads on the pins and the treads in the holes to make sure they are not stripped. Then practice installing the pins into the carrier without the caliper in place so you can verify both pins thread in properly. Then go and reinstall the caliper. It's usually just finding the alignement of the pin to the hole. Sometimes you just need to push the caliper from the top towards the hub to get the pin to line up with the threaded hole in the carrier.
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      11-03-2015, 01:22 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
Pull the pins from the caliper. Take the caliper off the carrier. Hang the caliper by some wire from the spring so it's out of the way. Then look at the threads on the pins and the treads in the holes to make sure they are not stripped. Then practice installing the pins into the carrier without the caliper in place so you can verify both pins thread in properly. Then go and reinstall the caliper. It's usually just finding the alignement of the pin to the hole. Sometimes you just need to push the caliper from the top towards the hub to get the pin to line up with the threaded hole in the carrier.
really appreciate it. going to run out and try that now. hopefully it's not stripped.
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      11-03-2015, 01:29 PM   #4
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Careful not to over tighten them. They can shear off and get lodged in the caliper bracket. You can guess how I know that.
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      11-03-2015, 01:31 PM   #5
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If it threads into the carrier OK, you might have a piece of rubber from the bushing sitting in the way.
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      11-03-2015, 04:10 PM   #6
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I didn't get a chance to check tonight since something came up. will have to tackle it in the morning. The thing is when I remove that bolt during the uninstillation process, I has the same issue where it would continue to rotate at a certain point but not extract. I had to use a pair of pliers to pull it out. Maybe it's related. if it's stripped, would I have to buy a new caliper? I really hope I don't have to shell out $350 for a new one. Darn it. Thanks for all the replies. Appreciate points for all.
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      11-03-2015, 07:16 PM   #7
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It sounds like it's just getting stuck in the bushing.

If you decide to replace because it's something else is it front or rear? I stupidly sheared off a bleeder screw and replaced my rears with remans from Advance Auto. It took a few tries before the ones they shipped me were acceptable but I'm reasonably satisfied with them. I think they were like $100 each but I was able to use 2 $50 off $100 coupons. From my research the fronts are harder to come by.

If you do go that route, get the version that states it comes with a mounting bracket, but prepare yourself to be on the phone with them A LOT when they repeatedly ship you units without.
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      11-03-2015, 07:30 PM   #8
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Don't tighten one all the way, alternate the tightening.
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      11-03-2015, 08:21 PM   #9
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Be careful that you do not strip them. I've done so before, but it wasn't that bad. 1 day later I found a caliper carrier for < $100 on a forum and I was back on the road the following weekend.

Take the calipers out and try to screw them in. They're easy to accidentally miss when trying to screw them in from the bushings. If they screw in, you're good. If they don't, you need to rethread it, or just snag a new carrier.
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      11-03-2015, 09:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBigYahi
It sounds like it's just getting stuck in the bushing.

If you decide to replace because it's something else is it front or rear? I stupidly sheared off a bleeder screw and replaced my rears with remans from Advance Auto. It took a few tries before the ones they shipped me were acceptable but I'm reasonably satisfied with them. I think they were like $100 each but I was able to use 2 $50 off $100 coupons. From my research the fronts are harder to come by.

If you do go that route, get the version that states it comes with a mounting bracket, but prepare yourself to be on the phone with them A LOT when they repeatedly ship you units without.
Hey thanks for the info. I'll get a better look at it tomorrow. Hopefully that's the case and I can just adjust the bushing to get the screw in. I ordered a remanufactured caliper from Turner Motorsports in Mass since they had the best price for the oem part. Plus the return shipping would cost less if I ended up not needing it. Its unfortunate since I was almost done with that corner. First time doing the brakes on my own, so I was pretty pumped. Thankful for everyone on this forum. I have the confidence to tackle small jobs on my car now because I have the people on this forum to fall back on.
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      11-03-2015, 09:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam
Be careful that you do not strip them. I've done so before, but it wasn't that bad. 1 day later I found a caliper carrier for < $100 on a forum and I was back on the road the following weekend.

Take the calipers out and try to screw them in. They're easy to accidentally miss when trying to screw them in from the bushings. If they screw in, you're good. If they don't, you need to rethread it, or just snag a new carrier.
I just ordered a new caliper from Turner. $85 plus a core charge of $115. I'm just happy I didn't end up paying 300 plus which is what some of the sponsors charge on their sites. the rear brakes were also missing the anti rattle clips so I picked up a pair from Amazon. quite odd since all brake work has been done at Bmw prior to the correct job.
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      11-03-2015, 10:13 PM   #12
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Boss... just follow my advice. The caliper is not the problem. The pins screw into the caliper carrier. The caliper floats on the pins; that's the intent of the design. You just need to push the caliper in towards the center of the hub, or pull the caliper out away from the hub to get the pin aligned with the hole. If the threads are not stripped on the pin nor the carrier, it's just an alignment issue. It is very hard to strip the pin or the carrier, both are very hard steel. I've about a total of 100 brakes on cars and motorcycles over the past 40 years I've been wrenching. I've never seen a stripped pin or caliper carrier.

Good luck.
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      11-03-2015, 11:23 PM   #13
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      11-03-2015, 11:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
Boss... just follow my advice. The caliper is not the problem. The pins screw into the caliper carrier. The caliper floats on the pins; that's the intent of the design. You just need to push the caliper in towards the center of the hub, or pull the caliper out away from the hub to get the pin aligned with the hole. If the threads are not stripped on the pin nor the carrier, it's just an alignment issue. It is very hard to strip the pin or the carrier, both are very hard steel. I've about a total of 100 brakes on cars and motorcycles over the past 40 years I've been wrenching. I've never seen a stripped pin or caliper carrier.

Good luck.
Will do. I played with it for half an hour and had no luck. The top pin went into the slot in less than ten seconds. Thanks.
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      11-04-2015, 05:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh
Boss... just follow my advice. The caliper is not the problem. The pins screw into the caliper carrier. The caliper floats on the pins; that's the intent of the design. You just need to push the caliper in towards the center of the hub, or pull the caliper out away from the hub to get the pin aligned with the hole. If the threads are not stripped on the pin nor the carrier, it's just an alignment issue. It is very hard to strip the pin or the carrier, both are very hard steel. I've about a total of 100 brakes on cars and motorcycles over the past 40 years I've been wrenching. I've never seen a stripped pin or caliper carrier.

Good luck.
Just took a look and the bracket hole is definitely stripped. Anyone know if that piece is sold separately or does it usually come with a new caliper?
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      11-04-2015, 05:51 AM   #16
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You can get the carrier separately. Looks like a monkey got into the brakes before you did. Not sure what E92 you have, but the 328i P/N is 34116769095 and the 335i P/N is 34116773203. You'll shit at the price...
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 11-04-2015 at 05:58 AM..
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      11-04-2015, 06:28 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
You can get the carrier separately. Looks like a monkey got into the brakes before you did. Not sure what E92 you have, but the 328i P/N is 34116769095 and the 335i P/N is 34116773203. You'll shit at the price...
The price is crazy!! This is the part number for my E92: 34216768696. It's over $140 on most sites. I thought it would be a cheap fix. The price is over inflated. I paid $85 for a rebuilt caliper from Turner, I'll call them and check if the bracket comes with the caliper. They did not have the details on the site. If so, I will just go that route and send back the core. Thanks for the P/N. It took me a while to find it. Its under rear suspension brake components and not brakes in getbmwparts.com if that helps anyone in the future.
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      11-04-2015, 07:24 AM   #18
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I think the Turner will come without the bracket. You can get a reman caliper with the bracket for $78 here. I would then just return the new one as the core if yours looks good, otherwise they recommend replacing calipers in pairs. The bracket fits both sides.
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      11-04-2015, 07:27 AM   #19
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Caliper brackets are available from recyclers and they will guarantee it to be a good part or replace it. Try ebay or a local recycler.
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      11-04-2015, 08:12 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBigYahi View Post
I think the Turner will come without the bracket. You can get a reman caliper with the bracket for $78 here. I would then just return the new one as the core if yours looks good, otherwise they recommend replacing calipers in pairs. The bracket fits both sides.
Just got off the phone with Turner. Their rebuilt units do come with a caliper bracket, the only caveat is the caliper is silver and not black, so they recommend painting them which is easy enough. The order should be here tomorrow so we will be in business thankfully! Advanced auto and rockauto both carry the calipers w/mounting bracket at around the same price. The sales rep laughed when I asked why the bracket itself was double the price of the caliper and bracket. BMW excise tax! Thanks everyone. You guys are awesome!
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      11-04-2015, 09:10 AM   #21
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Looks like lots of meat there... I would consider something like this...

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      11-04-2015, 09:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamu2789 View Post
...quite odd since all brake work has been done at Bmw prior to the correct job.
Every time my car has been to the BMW dealer they have screwed something up. Every. Single. Time.
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