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      04-19-2017, 05:28 PM   #1
Centmaker
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Is my water pump going bad? N52

I did the venting procedure (hold gas pedal for 10 seconds with engine off) and watched the stream in the coolant tank and the stream is intermittent. Every three seconds it pumps coolant for about one second. Should this be a continuous stream during the venting procedure or is my water pump going bad? Car is overheating sometimes, but sometimes it's fine.
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      04-19-2017, 07:39 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
I did the venting procedure (hold gas pedal for 10 seconds with engine off) and watched the stream in the coolant tank and the stream is intermittent. Every three seconds it pumps coolant for about one second. Should this be a continuous stream during the venting procedure or is my water pump going bad? Car is overheating sometimes, but sometimes it's fine.
What do the engine codes say?

The best way to diagnose is to have the codes read. This will remove all doubt.
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      04-20-2017, 06:53 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
What do the engine codes say?

The best way to diagnose is to have the codes read. This will remove all doubt.
My friend with the bmw software isn't available until the weekend and I'm on a time crunch. All import shops booked up until Monday and all I can only see genetic obd codes which won't show water pump. I have the Android elm327, but I also have the cables and a laptop, just don't know what software to use. Only code I'm getting is thermostat code stuck open.
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      04-20-2017, 07:15 PM   #4
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mileage on pump and thermostat?

I *think* the correct laptop software would be INPA, however, I have not used it on the E90 platform myself.

Just buy a Carly unit for future stuff. In the meantime...Turo.
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      04-21-2017, 02:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
I did the venting procedure (hold gas pedal for 10 seconds with engine off) and watched the stream in the coolant tank and the stream is intermittent. Every three seconds it pumps coolant for about one second. Should this be a continuous stream during the venting procedure or is my water pump going bad? Car is overheating sometimes, but sometimes it's fine.
a failing water pump can be intermittent. I suggest you keep the heater cranked when you drive. if the warm air suddenly goes cold, your pump is failing and you should pull over.

when the water pump does fail, restarting the car will make it run again for a limited period of time. using the heater is a good way to tell if it is working or not.

dont forget to post fault codes to confirm that the pump is failing. I suggest you also remove your plastic engine cover to lower temps a little bit and make the car less likely to go into limp overheating mode.
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      04-21-2017, 03:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR8-6IX View Post
a failing water pump can be intermittent. I suggest you keep the heater cranked when you drive. if the warm air suddenly goes cold, your pump is failing and you should pull over.
Great tip! That's a good one to keep in mind.
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      04-21-2017, 07:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR8-6IX View Post
a failing water pump can be intermittent. I suggest you keep the heater cranked when you drive. if the warm air suddenly goes cold, your pump is failing and you should pull over.

when the water pump does fail, restarting the car will make it run again for a limited period of time. using the heater is a good way to tell if it is working or not.

dont forget to post fault codes to confirm that the pump is failing. I suggest you also remove your plastic engine cover to lower temps a little bit and make the car less likely to go into limp overheating mode.
My wagon has 93k now, so I think my water pump soon will let me know about it existing lol
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      04-23-2017, 05:53 PM   #8
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Air never gets cold ever, but when I do venting procedure the steam in the expansion tank is perfectly timed can anyone confirm whether or not theirs is timed in perfect intervals?
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      04-23-2017, 11:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
Air never gets cold ever, but when I do venting procedure the steam in the expansion tank is perfectly timed can anyone confirm whether or not theirs is timed in perfect intervals?
Are you asking someone to remove the radiator cap on a hot motor to check this for you?

From your other thread about the "blown head gasket" and now this... where is your mechanic?

What do the codes say? We're trying to help, but you're not taking our advice.
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      04-24-2017, 02:15 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Are you asking someone to remove the radiator cap on a hot motor to check this for you?

From your other thread about the "blown head gasket" and now this... where is your mechanic?

What do the codes say? We're trying to help, but you're not taking our advice.

No, with cold motor, while engine is off. Level won't rise or anything, you'll just see a stream of coolant. I managed to run Carly on my elm327 and I guess it is the water pump. Here are the codes:
Device: >LGE< >e7lte_att_us< >LG-V410<
Motor Control:
** Engine / Motor
***** Map-controlled thermostat
******* Code: 002EF5
***** Crankshaft - inlet camshaft, correlation
******* Code: 002A98
***** Control input-VANOS Bank2
******* Code: 002A82
***** electric coolant pump, speed deviation
******* Code: 002E81
***** electric coolant pump, shut down
******* Code: 002E82
***** Crankshaft - exhaust camshaft, correlation
******* Code: 002A99
***** Power-management power failure
******* Code: 002DED

I don't know what the other codes are though.

Last edited by Centmaker; 04-24-2017 at 02:31 PM..
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      04-24-2017, 03:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
No, with cold motor, while engine is off. Level won't rise or anything, you'll just see a stream of coolant. I managed to run Carly on my elm327 and I guess it is the water pump. Here are the codes:
Device: >LGE< >e7lte_att_us< >LG-V410<
Motor Control:
** Engine / Motor
***** Map-controlled thermostat
******* Code: 002EF5
***** Crankshaft - inlet camshaft, correlation
******* Code: 002A98
***** Control input-VANOS Bank2
******* Code: 002A82
***** electric coolant pump, speed deviation
******* Code: 002E81
***** electric coolant pump, shut down
******* Code: 002E82

***** Crankshaft - exhaust camshaft, correlation
******* Code: 002A99
***** Power-management power failure
******* Code: 002DED

I don't know what the other codes are though.
Those two are classic indicators of a bad water pump. Clear them all and see what comes back. At this point, though, i'd probably just go ahead and order a pump and thermostat.

I had a couple of the camshaft correlation codes when I first bought my car, but after clearing them they never returned.
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      04-24-2017, 05:13 PM   #12
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Just bought the water pump and I have it in hand. Took an hour to remove under tray, disconnect rubber vibration dampener and remove hoses. Not bad considering I also had to look around for tools. Some shops around here wanted 4-5 hours for the job. Belle Tire, who neither I nor them were comfortable working on a BMW only called for 2.7 hours which is not bad. But I got the water pump from them, and it has no brand markings on it unfortunately but at least its metal. It just has an unintelligible part number and says made in China. At least it has lifetime warranty.
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      04-25-2017, 10:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
No, with cold motor, while engine is off. Level won't rise or anything, you'll just see a stream of coolant. I managed to run Carly on my elm327 and I guess it is the water pump. Here are the codes:
Device: >LGE< >e7lte_att_us< >LG-V410<
Can I ask perhaps a silly question? Is your check engine light on? Or any dashboard lights? My car has been running a 10-20 F hotter than normal lately but no CEI or other dashboard lights. Thanks!
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      04-25-2017, 06:19 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by dinkyrdj View Post
Can I ask perhaps a silly question? Is your check engine light on? Or any dashboard lights? My car has been running a 10-20 F hotter than normal lately but no CEI or other dashboard lights. Thanks!
As far as I'm aware you'll get no check engine light with bad Water pump and codes won't show on generic obd scanner. A BMW tech said usually there is no CEL but rarely you can get one. He also said if there's an internal head gasket leak or cracked head you'll get overheating with no cel light because of gases mixing or oil getting where it isn't supposed to be or something like that. I used Carly lite for Android with elm327 Bluetooth scanner and you send them your email and they send you the encrypted codes one time for free. Depending on year of your car you might need the wifi scanner instead of the Bluetooth to work with Carly. You can also use Bavarian Technic if you have a legit dcan cable. My eBay cable is crap.
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      04-26-2017, 12:34 AM   #15
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I want to add that when I took the old pump out I found the plastic floater stuck on the pump's fan blade.
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      04-26-2017, 12:59 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
I want to add that when I took the old pump out I found the plastic floater stuck on the pump's fan blade.
Which plastic floater?
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      04-26-2017, 01:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
Which plastic floater?
The plastic floater in the expansion tank. It was jammed in the waterpump, in the hole that has the little propeller. When I was doing the cooling system venting procedure to see if my pump worked, I could hear strange sounds from the water pump area, and now I know what it was. I hear no such sounds anymore. It was incredibly brittle. Might of had something to do with the water pump going bad.
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      04-26-2017, 01:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centmaker View Post
The plastic floater in the expansion tank. It was jammed in the waterpump, in the hole that has the little propeller. When I was doing the cooling system venting procedure to see if my pump worked, I could hear strange sounds from the water pump area, and now I know what it was. I hear no such sounds anymore. It was incredibly brittle. Might of had something to do with the water pump going bad.
That's a bummer. Didn't know this was a possibility. Good on you for recognizing what happened there.
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      04-26-2017, 01:51 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlow98 View Post
That's a bummer. Didn't know this was a possibility. Good on you for recognizing what happened there.
Yeah, I remember looking at it a year ago and wondering if it will ever break off or disintegrate. When I took the old pump out yesterday I could literally smash the floater with my fingers it was that brittle.
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      05-26-2017, 11:25 AM   #20
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Has anyone else experienced electric water pump failure under 60K miles?
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      05-26-2017, 12:28 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by VladDracul View Post
Has anyone else experienced electric water pump failure under 60K miles?
Yes, on my N54
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      05-27-2017, 08:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VladDracul View Post
Has anyone else experienced electric water pump failure under 60K miles?
Yes n55 at 40k
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