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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Anyone replace A/C lines?
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04-24-2017, 11:08 AM | #1 |
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Anyone replace A/C lines?
Hi folks,
Has anyone successfully replace A/C lines themselves? I'm wondering about the LOE involved. Original thread with more details is over here but no one's reading it and I'm trying to make shop/DIY decision today. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1377543 |
04-24-2017, 10:18 PM | #2 | |
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After replacing the line you'll need to replace the desiccant element in the condenser and thoroughly vacuum the system. The E90 has a replaceable desiccant instead of a separate receiver/drier. If you don't have the equipment to properly vacuum it afterwards then I'd just let the shop take care of it. A/C work often tends to not be worth it to DIY just for that reason. |
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04-25-2017, 02:28 AM | #3 |
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OP, I know that this may not be exactly the same issue as you have but since you are looking for input, I thought that I would share my experience.
On my 2009 E92 the AC condenser went while the car was under warranty and it was a big job to fix as the entire dash had to come out. As a result, the labor charges for the job were significant - all in I think dealership would have charged me about $2500 had I had to pay out of pocket. Hope that this helps.
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04-25-2017, 02:57 AM | #4 |
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I agree that getting to the evaporator under the dash is expensive/hard, just don't know what the line entails.
Thanks for the tip on the dessicant, would not have known that, not even labeled in the Bentley Looked it up, that's eye-wateringly expensive for some fancy silicone beads. But then I found this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-2006-01-...dYTKLa&vxp=mtr Seems like for $40 I can just drop that in after R&R the line and be GTG? Further research suggesting pulling and holding a deep vacuum for a couple days can also reactivate the dessicant. |
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04-25-2017, 05:05 AM | #5 | |
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I can't say about reviving the old one by vacuuming it, but you'll still want to pull a vacuum even if you replace it. The desiccant will absorb the small amounts of moisture that are left over, but you really want to empty out all the rest of the system before filling it. |
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05-06-2017, 10:41 PM | #6 |
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Well I just finished this up today, and although I had the desiccant right there, I said F*that once I realized just how nutty it is to get the desiccant swapped. The radiator needs to be drained and removed (along with the fan) to even think about accessing the condenser. No thanks. Infuriatingly, BMW has a rubberized radiator isolating mount screw that goes directly into the top of the dryer port. If they had just made the damn thing a little bit bigger, it would've been a super easy desiccant access port.
So instead I just kept pulling vacuum on both ports and hoped for the best. The hi pressure line, which is the one I replaced, pulled the most visible moisture out. Added as close to 590 grams of R134a and 65 grams of PAG 46 viscosity oil as I could get with a food scale and the system went from totally dead to ice cold I'll try to write up a DIY for the A/C liquid line replacement. Thanks for the help Kkasson! |
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03-06-2022, 04:00 PM | #7 | |
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03-06-2022, 04:19 PM | #8 |
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BMW went to a replaceable canister around 2011-2012. Before that it was a bag. Here is a video on replacing the old style bag. Looks like the guy left the radiator and coolant alone.
The newer style canister: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6972&jsn=437 |
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03-21-2022, 09:10 PM | #9 |
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I’m in the same boat, have you done anything yet?
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03-21-2022, 09:13 PM | #10 | |
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03-21-2022, 11:16 PM | #11 | |
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It’s one thing to top off a system with a can of refrigerant, but in your case you’ve got a completely empty system. The proper way to fill is based on weight, and—as you likely know—involves pulling vacuum first. Perhaps this is just conjecture, but from everything I’ve read the system in our cars is particularly sensitive. Stories abound of people having issues even after having their systems recharged at shop. The constant tends to be that the shop was neither a dealership nor an indy. I’ll DIY just about anything, but this is one of those rare times where I’d honestly just go to the dealer. Or at the very least take it to a reputable German car specialist that has the knowledge to do it right.
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05-10-2022, 01:00 PM | #12 | ||
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I plan on doing this as the AC isn't cold anymore and it's most likely due to not filling correctly. |
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05-15-2022, 06:40 AM | #14 | |
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05-15-2022, 07:43 AM | #15 | ||
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YouTube Tutorial: |
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05-15-2022, 09:39 AM | #16 |
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[QUOTE=n0ah305;28907094]I wouldn't say it was difficult but if you have a few hours to spare it would be good to take your time to really plan and inspect how you will be replacing this line. I recommend having coolant ready just in case as you will most likely need to lift the coolant reservoir to get the AC line out and slide under back in. In terms of refilling your system. Don't do what I did and use an R134a can. Definitely take the car to a shop for them to refill your system or follow this video to do it correctly.
Thank you! Yes I brought it to a friend's shop and he tested the system and found the leak. Ordered me the hose and I'm going to replace it myself. Once I replace it I will bring it back to get vacuumed and refilled. |
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05-15-2022, 02:04 PM | #17 |
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05-15-2022, 04:32 PM | #18 |
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I brought my wife in for some consultation, also to keep me from screaming some words that I would not want my neighbors to hear. Figured out that feeding the front end in first along the firewall to the front of the car. I started by trying to feed the long piece toward the firewall, but that was a no go. Anyway pretty cool experience and glad it's over. Heineken time.
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