[MaleficTrout]

Greetings!

I've just replaced an OEM battery (90aH Exide, white, nonAGM). Everything went fine, car starts and the new battery has been programmed from the IBS "reset" point of view.

My only concern is that the new battery is rated at 100aH, and IBS is set to put out 90aH (verified via INPA). As far as I know, there is no setting for 100aH in the IBS - its either 90 or 110....

Is it safe to leave it coded at 90aH?

Thanks in advance.

[PhaseP]

Don't sweat, it will be fine.

Anyways the new battery's reserve capacity I would venture a guess is more close to your OEM battery's reserve capacity.

[rbeck]

Hmmm. This is the issue that was the proverbial straw, for me. 12 months ago, I replaced the battery in my 2010 328xiT. Followed the Bentley manual procedure, and booked an appointment at the dealer to get the battery registered. But the infamous FRM module failed. So my DIY turned into a $1300 bill. But the work order said my battery was indeed registered. No indication thet the battery capacity (100ah) was an issue. But I did have a new dash rattle!
Couple of weeks ago, the hvac stops providing heat. So, the dealer is closer, and I take the car there for a diagnosis. They conclude that the issue is 'low vehicle system voltage'. Brought on by the wrong battery, which they said had 'aged out'. So $1700 later, I have a shiney new BMW 90AH battery, a new IBS cable, and no heat. Thermostat, they tell me, after telling me the day before it was definitely electrical, not the cooling system. Thermostat, rad, and water pump are 17 months old, and no code showed up for a faulty thermostat.
Car is now at an independent shop, where they determined (using old-school diagnostic skills) that the heater core is clogged. Now flushed and functional.
This shop specializes in German cars, and they have the same diagnostic equipment as the dealer. They said the dealer's behavior is pretty ... questionable. If the battery I installed was wrong, or couldn't be registered, they could have/should have told me at that point. And the FRM is notoriously twitchy. They say subject to BMW NA recalls and silent warranties. But not here in Canada, where BMW Canada will acknowledge no problem.
Long winded, sorry! Hope this helps. Please refer to the 'Done with BMW' post for a bit more background.

[Welcome to NBA Jam]

You are correct to set it to 90ah. It'll be fine. You don't want to overcharge it at 110ah.

[MaleficTrout]

Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam

You are correct to set it to 90ah. It'll be fine. You don't want to overcharge it at 110ah.

Thanks! That's kind of what I figured - if it gets undercharged, it's no big deal. Better than overcharging. Thanks for confirming!

[MaleficTrout]

Originally Posted by rbeck

Hmmm. This is the issue that was the proverbial straw, for me. 12 months ago, I replaced the battery in my 2010 328xiT. Followed the Bentley manual procedure, and booked an appointment at the dealer to get the battery registered. But the infamous FRM module failed. So my DIY turned into a $1300 bill. But the work order said my battery was indeed registered. No indication thet the battery capacity (100ah) was an issue. But I did have a new dash rattle!
Couple of weeks ago, the hvac stops providing heat. So, the dealer is closer, and I take the car there for a diagnosis. They conclude that the issue is 'low vehicle system voltage'. Brought on by the wrong battery, which they said had 'aged out'. So $1700 later, I have a shiney new BMW 90AH battery, a new IBS cable, and no heat. Thermostat, they tell me, after telling me the day before it was definitely electrical, not the cooling system. Thermostat, rad, and water pump are 17 months old, and no code showed up for a faulty thermostat.
Car is now at an independent shop, where they determined (using old-school diagnostic skills) that the heater core is clogged. Now flushed and functional.
This shop specializes in German cars, and they have the same diagnostic equipment as the dealer. They said the dealer's behavior is pretty ... questionable. If the battery I installed was wrong, or couldn't be registered, they could have/should have told me at that point. And the FRM is notoriously twitchy. They say subject to BMW NA recalls and silent warranties. But not here in Canada, where BMW Canada will acknowledge no problem.
Long winded, sorry! Hope this helps. Please refer to the 'Done with BMW' post for a bit more background.

Sorry man, I feel your pain! Sounds like they took you for a ride

[ctuna]

Since you are only allowed to put in a certain number and 90ah
is the highest you can put in for a Lead Acid battery you don't
have any choice but to leave it there. Also I have a higher than
stock lead acid battery and its been in there for 3 years now with
no problems.

[MaleficTrout]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Since you are only allowed to put in a certain number and 90ah
is the highest you can put in for a Lead Acid battery you don't
have any choice but to leave it there. Also I have a higher than
stock lead acid battery and its been in there for 3 years now with
no problems.

no, you can go up to 110 with a nonAGM....


KLASSE_BATTERIE BATTERY TYPE
wert_00 value 00
80ah 80 ampere-hours
90ah 90 ampere-hours
110ah 110 ampere-hours
70ah 70 ampere-hours
55ah 55 ampere-hours
46ah 46 ampere-hours
70ah_agm 70 ampere-hours (agm)
90ah_agm 90 ampere-hours (agm)
60ah_agm 60 ampere-hours (agm)
80ah_agm 80 ampere-hours (agm)

[BravoJohny33]

Originally Posted by MaleficTrout

no, you can go up to 110 with a nonAGM....


KLASSE_BATTERIE BATTERY TYPE
wert_00 value 00
80ah 80 ampere-hours
90ah 90 ampere-hours
110ah 110 ampere-hours
70ah 70 ampere-hours
55ah 55 ampere-hours
46ah 46 ampere-hours
70ah_agm 70 ampere-hours (agm)
90ah_agm 90 ampere-hours (agm)
60ah_agm 60 ampere-hours (agm)
80ah_agm 80 ampere-hours (agm)

Yep I think I have a 110 ah that I put in there a while ago.

[Persian Whisperjet]

You have done part of the work by having INPA tell the car you have a new battery. Now you want to restart INPA and tell the car what the battery characteristics are, to include AH, type (flooded versus AGM, etc). Unfortunately the Foxwell tool will not do steps 2 and 3.

[gjm120]

Originally Posted by Persian Whisperjet

You have done part of the work by having INPA tell the car you have a new battery. Now you want to restart INPA and tell the car what the battery characteristics are, to include AH, type (flooded versus AGM, etc). Unfortunately the Foxwell tool will not do steps 2 and 3.

Can't say I've done it, but, watch this video. It shows options to change Ah and type of battery. Frankly I'm afraid to go that deep into the batter registration until I'm replacing a battery for fear of messing something up.

https://www.youcanic.com/video/foxwe...y-registration

[Wedelthomas]

Just installed an 85 amp non-agm battery, should I code at 80 or 90 amp? Using BimmerCode for coding and those are the closest options

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by Wedelthomas

Just installed an 85 amp non-agm battery, should I code at 80 or 90 amp? Using BimmerCode for coding and those are the closest options

Originally Posted by Wedelthomas

Just installed an 85 amp non-agm battery, should I code at 80 or 90 amp? Using BimmerCode for coding and those are the closest options

I would use 80ah so you don't overcharge it