[mlamp89]

Hey all,


* *I've had my 2007 335I for a year now, and I've had issues the entire time. Currently, when it's cold and I go to leave the driveway the car will act almost as though it's not getting the fuel. It shakes, sometimes violently, very similar to when you let the clutch out to fast and almost stall. The throttle response also is not there. I can push the peddle in and get not much then all of a sudden it'll kick in. But what's worse is the fact that when I go WOT, on a warm engine, it'll over boost. Doesn't matter if I'm in map 0, or any other on the JB4. I used to get vanos codes, but I replaced both solenoids and now rarely get those codes anymore. I also have catless downpipes. So I get the lambda codes and with the updated jb4, I can't silence them. Attached is my current codes. Sorry that the picture is weird. The site wanted it formatted to that ratio.


Thanks,
Matt


Edit* the oil code was because my car was on a hill for a few minutes while reading codes

[RocketSurgeon]

Ok, you have fault codes for 3 of your 4 oxygen sensors. 2 of which are Lambda sensors used for AFR. The 2 unknown faults have me puzzled. If you have a K+DCAN and Android device, you can read engine codes with MHD for free. I think a wiring issue is more likely than 3 bad O2 sensors.
Overboost could be a sticky wastegate or a problem with the BOV/diverter.
Can you tell us more about the car and mileage. Did it have this problem when you bought it? Was is already modified?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

Ok, you have fault codes for 3 of your 4 oxygen sensors. 2 of which are Lambda sensors used for AFR. The 2 unknown faults have me puzzled. If you have a K+DCAN and Android device, you can read engine codes with MHD for free. I think a wiring issue is more likely than 3 bad O2 sensors.
Overboost could be a sticky wastegate or a problem with the BOV/diverter.
Can you tell us more about the car and mileage. Did it have this problem when you bought it? Was is already modified?

Personally,

I'd drain the fluid out of the radiator & the block myself via the water pump. Add 2 gallons of distilled water plus Liqui Moly Radiator cleaner.

Run the water pump with via putting your accelerator down for 12 sec. with a battery charger.

Run the engine for the suggested time with the heater going full blast at the highest temp.

Drain it. Refill with 2 gallons of distilled water & run it for maybe 5 min. Drain. And repeat the with 2 more gallons of distilled water.

Run the water pump with via putting your accelerator down for 12 sec. with a battery charger after each refill.

I'd then fill the system with Amsoil coolant mixed with a coolant booster. It's 8oz. of booster per gallon of radiator fluid.

Run the water pump with via putting your accelerator down for 12 sec. with a battery charger. To pressurize the system & then open up the reservoir and top it off. Then and re-pressurize it via pressing the accelerator down for 12 sec with the battery charger on the car.

Done.

Liqui Moly Radiator Cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20.../dp/B00CPL99N6

Amsoil Coolant -

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=ANT1G-EA

Or

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ode=ANTPC1G-EA


Amsoil Coolant Boost -

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...coolant-boost/

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by RocketSurgeon

Ok, you have fault codes for 3 of your 4 oxygen sensors. 2 of which are Lambda sensors used for AFR. The 2 unknown faults have me puzzled. If you have a K+DCAN and Android device, you can read engine codes with MHD for free. I think a wiring issue is more likely than 3 bad O2 sensors.
Overboost could be a sticky wastegate or a problem with the BOV/diverter.
Can you tell us more about the car and mileage. Did it have this problem when you bought it? Was is already modified?

I have catless downpipes, so that should be the cause of the lambda codes. And it's a 2007 with 125k. Turbos and injectors were replaced at 80k I believe. Plugs were replaced around 110k. And at 120k the coolant pump died and blew a hose as well. Dealer replaced the pump, hose and coolant. I bought the car with the mods it has. I haven't done anything with it.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Personally,

I'd drain the fluid out of the radiator & the block myself via the water pump. Add 2 gallons of distilled water plus Liqui Moly Radiator cleaner.

Run the water pump with via putting your accelerator down for 12 sec. with a battery charger.

Run the engine for the suggested time with the heater going full blast at the highest temp.

Drain it. Refill with 2 gallons of distilled water & run it for maybe 5 min. Drain. And repeat the with 2 more gallons of distilled water.

Run the water pump with via putting your accelerator down for 12 sec. with a battery charger after each refill.

I'd then fill the system with Amsoil coolant mixed with a coolant booster. It's 8oz. of booster per gallon of radiator fluid.

Run the water pump with via putting your accelerator down for 12 sec. with a battery charger. To pressurize the system & then open up the reservoir and top it off. Then and re-pressurize it via pressing the accelerator down for 12 sec with the battery charger on the car.

Done.

Liqui Moly Radiator Cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20.../dp/B00CPL99N6

Amsoil Coolant -

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=ANT1G-EA

Or

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...ode=ANTPC1G-EA


Amsoil Coolant Boost -

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...coolant-boost/

I'm not following. Why would I want to do all this?

[Sgop335]

[mlamp89]

Anyone? I'm at the point that I'm just going to start throwing parts at it on credit. I'm tired of driving it like this. Some more info, sitting at idle you can feel it stutter(car shakes, really feel it in the gear shifter), and if I hold 1k rpm, it'll drop 100-200 rpm when it stutters.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by mlamp89

Anyone? I'm at the point that I'm just going to start throwing parts at it on credit. I'm tired of driving it like this. Some more info, sitting at idle you can feel it stutter(car shakes, really feel it in the gear shifter), and if I hold 1k rpm, it'll drop 100-200 rpm when it stutters.

Let me see if I could help.

First off basics. Check your plugs and coil packs. You say the plugs were serviced but not the coil packs. Start there. Inexpensive DIY.

You insinuate that the car has had issues SINCE you bought it. I'll go with that. Check the downpipes, specifically your O2 sensors. You have a total of 4 so if they were not installed in the correct order on the downpipes, you'll have a bunch of issues. Gray O2 sensors go first, black go second. You could check this by going under the car.

You're overboost issue could be your BOV, Wastegate, turbos related. This one could potentially be the hardest to diagnose so I'd save this for last.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to remove the JB4 and see if the car still has issues after.

[e90yyc]

+1 on removing JB to form a baseline assessment of what is wrong.

A couple friends of mine have had issues with their JB tunes as well, and were able to remedy many of them by disconnecting the JB module. Obviously this sucks if you can’t use your tune, but if it makes your car more driveable in the mean time, I’d say it’s worth it.

Good luck

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Let me see if I could help.

First off basics. Check your plugs and coil packs. You say the plugs were serviced but not the coil packs. Start there. Inexpensive DIY.

You insinuate that the car has had issues SINCE you bought it. I'll go with that. Check the downpipes, specifically your O2 sensors. You have a total of 4 so if they were not installed in the correct order on the downpipes, you'll have a bunch of issues. Gray O2 sensors go first, black go second. You could check this by going under the car.

You're overboost issue could be your BOV, Wastegate, turbos related. This one could potentially be the hardest to diagnose so I'd save this for last.

Also, it wouldn't hurt to remove the JB4 and see if the car still has issues after.

I put the JB4 in map 0. Does that not somewhat remove it? At least software wise?

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by mlamp89

I put the JB4 in map 0. Does that not somewhat remove it? At least software wise?

Not necessarily. You're still running JB software whether your in map 0 or not.

I'm just recommending removing it because if you have an overboost issue on stock, that means you're looking at hardware issues, not software.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Not necessarily. You're still running JB software whether your in map 0 or not.

I'm just recommending removing it because if you have an overboost issue on stock, that means you're looking at hardware issues, not software.

Good point. I'll try that.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by mlamp89

Good point. I'll try that.

Keep us updated. I'm genuinely interested in seeing what your issues are and if you can fix them.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Keep us updated. I'm genuinely interested in seeing what your issues are and if you can fix them.

Will do. And thanks. I'm hoping to get it back to normal operation, so then I can hopefully beef it up more.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Not necessarily. You're still running JB software whether your in map 0 or not.

I'm just recommending removing it because if you have an overboost issue on stock, that means you're looking at hardware issues, not software.

Do I have to do anything special to remove it? Meaning, can I literally just unplug it from the ecu and move on? I didn't install it, so I'm not sure what's all involved. I'll probably dig into it tomorrow.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by mlamp89

Do I have to do anything special to remove it? Meaning, can I literally just unplug it from the ecu and move on? I didn't install it, so I'm not sure what's all involved. I'll probably dig into it tomorrow.

The JB4 is connected to the ECU via a harness. What you need to do is when you remove one of the connections, replace it on the ecu. I believe there are like 4 connections that come from the ECU to the JB4 harness.

Here is a video of the install. Just go backwards to remove it.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

The JB4 is connected to the ECU via a harness. What you need to do is when you remove one of the connections, replace it on the ecu. I believe there are like 4 connections that come from the ECU to the JB4 harness.

Here is a video of the install. Just go backwards to remove it.

Thanks, I figured that was all I needed to do. Wish me luck.

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

The JB4 is connected to the ECU via a harness. What you need to do is when you remove one of the connections, replace it on the ecu. I believe there are like 4 connections that come from the ECU to the JB4 harness.

Here is a video of the install. Just go backwards to remove it.

Been fighting my ecu for an hour. Just trying to disconnect the jb4 wire harness from the ecu. But it's not budging. Doesn't help that the ecu itself is loose in the compartment. Pulled the two tabs about a half inch out. No luck.

[jeddo45]

Originally Posted by mlamp89

Been fighting my ecu for an hour. Just trying to disconnect the jb4 wire harness from the ecu. But it's not budging. Doesn't help that the ecu itself is loose in the compartment. Pulled the two tabs about a half inch out. No luck.

Any luck OP? Were you able to remove the JB4 or no?

[mlamp89]

Originally Posted by jeddo45

Any luck OP? Were you able to remove the JB4 or no?

Got it all removed. Was pretty simple once I was able to work passed the rats nest of wires and what not. Now I'm just waiting for the code to come back. And research which exhaust to get when I upgrade my turbos.