[RossBMWZseries]

My local dealer called me to let me know the parts were in to service the 3 recalls on this car; PCV, blower motor, and airbag. All was serviced beautifully!

I took advantage to take care of the valve cover gasket (VCG) and the oil filter housing gasket (OFHG). I swapped the VCG and made sure the gasket didn't roll when putting it in. Oil leak stopped and no more smell or view of smoke coming from the engine compartment I didn't have time to swap the OFHG.

After starting the car (I did do the 30 seconds to have the valvetronic motor relearn the stops before starting vehicle), I noticed that there was some sort of "kick" coming from the engine. When I removed the valvetronic motor, I did screw it clockwise to release tension, then counter clockwise to remove the motor. Then I removed bottom E bolt at the bottom, then the ones on the side. When I reinstalled the motor, I did everything in reverse order.

I don't know if that has anything to do with the knocking and I'm jumping to conclusions here. I'm hoping that this knock I'm feeling is actually from the coil on Cylinder 1. The tip of the coil boot was broken and was stuck to the spark plug. No, I didn't replace it as I needed to put everything back to get the car back on the road. I order spark plugs and a new coil to replace them as soon as they come in. There was a bit of oil in 2 coil tubings. I pumped it out and cleaned it as best as I could. I did have a Service Engine Soon light. AutoZone had stated it pointed out that the car was running "too rich" or "too lean", can't remember which. When my local dealer serviced the recalls, they indicated the code was pointing out that it was a bad injector.

It could be an easy fix on the coil/injector/spark plug. Worst case scenario is that I somehow made a mistake when pulling out the valvetronic motor as it did "snap" off a bit when I pulled it out even though I seemed to have followed the correct procedure. Any insight on this or experience you may have had will be appreciated!

[tlow98]

Need to scan the codes.

[Biginboca]

I had similar after doing my VCG. Try reinstalling the valvetronic motor again, that’s what fixed my issue. When you install the motor do not screw the worm gear in tightly. It should not be pulling on the gear it engages just should turn the worm gear (motor shaft) enough to allow the motor to slip into place and the mounting bolts to be tightened. You might even want to back the worm gear up ever so slightly after you get the motor mounting bolts tight just to be sure. You want no tension pulling on the valvetronic gear.

When I reinstalled the motor and did the reset again (ignition on wait 30 seconds, etc) my rough idle and rich running went away.

Actually in retrospect you might not even need to uninstall the motor maybe even just backing off the worm gear tension with an Allen wrench and then doing the relearn would be enough.

[RossBMWZseries]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Need to scan the codes.

will get back to this thread later today with a code

Originally Posted by Biginboca

I had similar after doing my VCG. Try reinstalling the valvetronic motor again, that’s what fixed my issue. When you install the motor do not screw the worm gear in tightly. It should not be pulling on the gear it engages just should turn the worm gear (motor shaft) enough to allow the motor to slip into place and the mounting bolts to be tightened. You might even want to back the worm gear up ever so slightly after you get the motor mounting bolts tight just to be sure. You want no tension pulling on the valvetronic gear.

When I reinstalled the motor and did the reset again (ignition on wait 30 seconds, etc) my rough idle and rich running went away.

Actually in retrospect you might not even need to uninstall the motor maybe even just backing off the worm gear tension with an Allen wrench and then doing the relearn would be enough.

I actually tried this and yesterday at night there was no knocking at all. This morning the knocking was back. I think if it was the valvetronic motor, this would be a continuous issue all day every day. I'm thinking the problem could be coming from the torn coil. Perhaps there's oil I can't see under the spark plug.

[RossBMWZseries]

I took the car to Oreilly to get the code read. Their scanner indicated it was a misfire in cylinder 1 which happens to be the same cylinder where the coil is worn out. Their scanner also pointed out "bad air intake temperature sensor", but the guy said "our scanner ALWAYS says that with all cars so I wouldn't pay much attention to that one". LOL, I want to now check that sensor anyway. Is it the one located on the passenger side between the coolant reservoir and the cabling box?

Anyway, I bought the coil there as they had it in stock, i'll replace it today. I'll also check the sensor and REINSTALL the valvetronic motor, just slower and more carefully this time.

[RossBMWZseries]

Replaced the coil in cylinder 1, cleaned out the spark plug as well as I could from all the oil down there, removed and reinstalled valvetronic motor. Car seems to be running fine now, however, the service engine soon light is still there. Is it supposed to go off once problem is resolved or am I suppose to clear it?

[6ixSpd]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

Replaced the coil in cylinder 1, cleaned out the spark plug as well as I could from all the oil down there, removed and reinstalled valvetronic motor. Car seems to be running fine now, however, the service engine soon light is still there. Is it supposed to go off once problem is resolved or am I suppose to clear it?

You have to clear it. Invest in a BMW specific scanner, a lot of generic free or cheap OBD2 readers aren't nearly as helpful as a INPA suite.

[JuniorB]

Once the new part is installed, the code has to be cleared, it will still be stored.

[RossBMWZseries]

Thanks for the clarification guys. Any specific scanner I should consider? I have a ‘06 Z4M and a ‘11 328i. I’d prefer a device that can read and clear codes, maybe even the SAS (steering angle sensor) code.

[RossBMWZseries]

Car now is turning off. It does start back with no problem but idling is around 500-600 RPM, then turns off. I should be able to burrow a buddy's BMW specific scanner later today to check out this code. Is there a possibility that I somehow damaged the valvetronic motor or the teeth in the half moon and it's causing my engine to idle rough or turn off?

Seems like a misfire really, perhaps an injector.

[RossBMWZseries]

So I'm getting these codes with my BMW specific scanner (P0171 and P0174; Bank 1 & 2 too lean). I've searched the forums and read that it could be a few things like the MAF and whatnot. Anything I should specifically inspect other than cleaning the system? I'm going to check the mass air flow sensor as well as the elbow boot and where the MAF sits for any deterioration.

[ChuckThomas]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

So I'm getting these codes with my BMW specific scanner (P0171 and P0174; Bank 1 & 2 too lean). I've searched the forums and read that it could be a few things like the MAF and whatnot. Anything I should specifically inspect other than cleaning the system? I'm going to check the mass air flow sensor as well as the elbow boot and where the MAF sits for any deterioration.

You are using the scanner wrong. When you plug it in, you click on the BMW menu, go to scan vin, and let it scan all systems. The menu you're in is the generic mode. I would also invest in a battery charger at this point, because you could kill the battery by just having the scanner hooked up and the car not running.

Go to the right menu and get the BMW specific codes for you to look up and you will get more information

[RossBMWZseries]

Originally Posted by ChuckThomas

You are using the scanner wrong. When you plug it in, you click on the BMW menu, go to scan vin, and let it scan all systems. The menu you're in is the generic mode. I would also invest in a battery charger at this point, because you could kill the battery by just having the scanner hooked up and the car not running.

Go to the right menu and get the BMW specific codes for you to look up and you will get more information

LOL I was made aware of this just yesterday in the Z4 forum. It's my first time using a scanner, however, I tried both the "generic mode" and the BMW specific one as well. The BMW one was more confusing, to me at least, only because there's so many codes I don't understand. Other than DME and SRS and other basic terms, i'm completely lost. I'll try it again today and post specific codes.

[ChuckThomas]

Originally Posted by RossBMWZseries

LOL I was made aware of this just yesterday in the Z4 forum. It's my first time using a scanner, however, I tried both the "generic mode" and the BMW specific one as well. The BMW one was more confusing, to me at least, only because there's so many codes I don't understand. Other than DME and SRS and other basic terms, i'm completely lost. I'll try it again today and post specific codes.

Yeah just read up on whatever you have questions on. It will all slowly start to make sense. Download or buy the Bentley manual for your car.

sidenote: you have a lot of reading to do :

[RossBMWZseries]

So I scanned the 328i again (not using the generic mode) and pulled these codes. I googled each and every one of them which led me to different forums for different BMW models. I haven’t had a chance to clean the MAF but someone correct me if I’m wrong; once I inspect the intake system, MAF, including the sensor itself and the elbow boot, if everything seems to be intact, would these codes point out to the sensor needing replacement? Also, that other code FZD function center roof:fogging sensor... never heard of it but I just read a bit about it. Is it needed? Do I need to replace it? How can I check if this sensor actually works when I don’t even know the function of it?

[RossBMWZseries]

I cleaned the air intake system and MAF sensor, meter, and elbow boot that reaches all the way to the throttle body (should've cleaned the throttle body once I was there but didn't..). Made everything look "like new". I erased the codes. Starting the car felt a little smoother, RPM's came back up a bit faster as I revved the engine a bit. Did a few drive cycles and the exact same codes came back on. My guess is that the culprit is the MAF sensor ($200). I was also reading dirty VANOS solenoids could cause this misfire. I don't mind spending the money on a new MAF IF I NEED IT. How accurate are these BMW scanners? Can it be more direct than the codes it's already giving me?

[RossBMWZseries]

I removed the MAF and drove it this way. Seems to misfire a bit less. I'm getting the codes below with the MAF unplugged versus the MAF plugged in. Again, I'm new at using a scanner. What exactly is the difference between "present" and "not present"? Is it indicating the MAF is/is not present or that the code is/is not present?

[RossBMWZseries]

anyone?

[RossBMWZseries]

I bought a new MAF sensor and replaced it last night. Deleted the codes, went for a drive. Car seemed to run fine, even felt a bit quicker off the line. Came back home and service engine soon light came back on. It also started misfiring again on idle. Average idle is about 600 RPM, then it stumbles down and back up. Read the codes and got the same ones shown below. My lack of knowledge and confidence using a scanner is reaaaaally bothering me. I don’t know what else to do. Common knowledge tells me I should maybe replace all coils and spark plugs, perhaps injectors, clean the VANOS solenoids but shouldn’t the scanner give me certain codes for that? I’m at a loss here, anyone that could help me figure this out, I’d greatly appreciate it!

[RossBMWZseries]

Nobody is responding to my thread. Am I doing something wrong here? lol common gentlemen, any help is appreciated

[E90beamo]

Lol man Im reading and I’m like it’s been a few months and nobody’s replying to my mans questions anymore. I’m having the same codes after a vcg change by an indie, p0171 p0174 p1415 then misfires on cylinders 1 2 3 and 5. I haven’t been in the car yet again to really look around at what they did just trying to find someone with similar story and what they did as a resolution but alas here we are and no one’s responded lol. I did find this though https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/m...ement.1396768/ seems like it may be likely so I’m going to get in the car after little more research. I would bring it back up to the indie but they already taxed me 869 for the vcg replacement. I had replaced myself earlier in the year but then noticed a smell a few months later so took it to the indie since I don’t have a garage now I’m here. Hopefully you figured it out