Car cranks but will not start.

tom.gnade · 01-27-2020, 01:16 PM

Hi, for the last few months I was having intermittent power dropouts under acceleration. I knew I probably had to clean up the VANOS solenoids, I just didn't get around to it. A few weeks ago, I went to start up the car, and it cranks fine, but won't start. No check engine lights, no codes, nadda.

I googled "e92 cranks but won't start" and found this video:

I ordered some MAF cleaner, engine degreaser, and the air filter cleaner from Pipercross (https://www.forgemotorsport.com/PXC9...uct--1591.html). I removed the air filter housing and air filter, and thoroughly cleaned it, following directions. I then removed the MAF (carefully), and sprayed it 3-4 times with MAF cleaner, allowing it to air dry completely. I then also removed both VANOS solenoids, and cleaned them very aggressively with engine degreaser and MAF cleaner on the electrical contacts. I replaced everything just as it was, punched the start button, and she fired right up, no issues. Idle is perfect. I'll take it for a drive in a bit.

Based upon the condition of the solenoids, I would suggest the MAF and solenoids should be cleaned each time you change your oil. The only other time I had trouble with this kind of thing, it turned out to be the coils and plugs. Based on the condition of the plugs, I would suggest replacing them every 25k miles or so, it might save the coils in any case.

I just wanted to share this experience in case anyone else has similar trouble!

Noir · 01-27-2020, 01:30 PM

You're the man!

freakystyly · 01-27-2020, 02:17 PM

Congrats on solving it!

Just out of curiosity what was your maintenance schedule like for oil changes? I wonder if the solenoids are a little more sensitive to longer intervals especially as they age, assuming they're original.

I'm not sure on how finicky the air side is but I'm sure a good cleaning no doubt helped.

tom.gnade · 01-28-2020, 12:20 PM

I've only had the car for 25k miles. I think I've changed the oil 3 or 4 times. I aim for every 5k, but that doesn't happen. The car starts and runs ok, but is still stumbling on acceleration below 3k rpm. Either the solenoid seals need to be replaced, or I'll just do both solenoids and new seals. I don't think it's my coils or plugs, they probably don't even have barely 10k miles on them.

The valves were both completely covered in oil, but they cleaned up to look almost new, apart from some heat scoring or something here and there. I think it's probably just time for new ones.

John Frantum · 02-01-2020, 08:22 AM

I just watched that video earlier today, that might be the next thing to check.

I have a 2008 328i, e90, Super Ultra Low Emission model,
When cranking, the engine sometimes gives a short burst of firing, but the starter shuts off.
I've checked the fuses and relay for the fuel pump, jumped the connector for the relay and checked the voltage at the round 6-pin connector at the low pressure pump.
The pump reads 12 volts, so I replaced the pump, still no start.

The code reader pulls up a P0492 code, secondary air system, but from what I understand, that would not prevent the car from starting.

I just pulled off the plastic needed to access the fuel rail, but did not immediately see a schrader valve for the fuel line to test the secondary pressure.
I have seen forums that indicate mass air flow issues, so I'm planning on bypassing the MAS, but aside from all that, I'm at a loss.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

01-27-2020, 01:16 PM	#1
tom.gnade Apex Forged 19", AA headers, MILVs, 3IM, Euro Intake, Swift Spec-R 88 Rep 255 Posts Drives: 2013 328i coupe Join Date: May 2016 Location: Forest Hill, MD iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 BMW 328i [0.00]	Car cranks but will not start. Hi, for the last few months I was having intermittent power dropouts under acceleration. I knew I probably had to clean up the VANOS solenoids, I just didn't get around to it. A few weeks ago, I went to start up the car, and it cranks fine, but won't start. No check engine lights, no codes, nadda. I googled "e92 cranks but won't start" and found this video: I ordered some MAF cleaner, engine degreaser, and the air filter cleaner from Pipercross (https://www.forgemotorsport.com/PXC9...uct--1591.html). I removed the air filter housing and air filter, and thoroughly cleaned it, following directions. I then removed the MAF (carefully), and sprayed it 3-4 times with MAF cleaner, allowing it to air dry completely. I then also removed both VANOS solenoids, and cleaned them very aggressively with engine degreaser and MAF cleaner on the electrical contacts. I replaced everything just as it was, punched the start button, and she fired right up, no issues. Idle is perfect. I'll take it for a drive in a bit. Based upon the condition of the solenoids, I would suggest the MAF and solenoids should be cleaned each time you change your oil. The only other time I had trouble with this kind of thing, it turned out to be the coils and plugs. Based on the condition of the plugs, I would suggest replacing them every 25k miles or so, it might save the coils in any case. I just wanted to share this experience in case anyone else has similar trouble!
	Appreciate 1 Noir883.00 Tweet Quote

01-27-2020, 01:30 PM	#2
Noir Major 883 Rep 1,413 Posts Drives: 2006 E90 330i 6MT Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: San Antonio iTrader: (1)	You're the man! __________________ See you, space cowboy. *Supercharged*
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-27-2020, 02:17 PM	#3
freakystyly Lieutenant Colonel 3072 Rep 1,824 Posts Drives: F22 B58 6MT Join Date: May 2016 Location: Ontario iTrader: (0)	Congrats on solving it! Just out of curiosity what was your maintenance schedule like for oil changes? I wonder if the solenoids are a little more sensitive to longer intervals especially as they age, assuming they're original. I'm not sure on how finicky the air side is but I'm sure a good cleaning no doubt helped.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

01-28-2020, 12:20 PM	#4
tom.gnade Apex Forged 19", AA headers, MILVs, 3IM, Euro Intake, Swift Spec-R 88 Rep 255 Posts Drives: 2013 328i coupe Join Date: May 2016 Location: Forest Hill, MD iTrader: (1) Garage List 2013 BMW 328i [0.00]	I've only had the car for 25k miles. I think I've changed the oil 3 or 4 times. I aim for every 5k, but that doesn't happen. The car starts and runs ok, but is still stumbling on acceleration below 3k rpm. Either the solenoid seals need to be replaced, or I'll just do both solenoids and new seals. I don't think it's my coils or plugs, they probably don't even have barely 10k miles on them. The valves were both completely covered in oil, but they cleaned up to look almost new, apart from some heat scoring or something here and there. I think it's probably just time for new ones.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

02-01-2020, 08:22 AM	#5
John Frantum New Member 0 Rep 6 Posts Drives: 2008 BMW 328i, SULE model Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: Tullahoma, TN iTrader: (0)	I just watched that video earlier today, that might be the next thing to check. I have a 2008 328i, e90, Super Ultra Low Emission model, When cranking, the engine sometimes gives a short burst of firing, but the starter shuts off. I've checked the fuses and relay for the fuel pump, jumped the connector for the relay and checked the voltage at the round 6-pin connector at the low pressure pump. The pump reads 12 volts, so I replaced the pump, still no start. The code reader pulls up a P0492 code, secondary air system, but from what I understand, that would not prevent the car from starting. I just pulled off the plastic needed to access the fuel rail, but did not immediately see a schrader valve for the fuel line to test the secondary pressure. I have seen forums that indicate mass air flow issues, so I'm planning on bypassing the MAS, but aside from all that, I'm at a loss. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
	Appreciate 0 Quote