[pjr710]

OK so it's my first time replacing my battery. I got a huge H8.

I also realized that my vent tube hose was gone. My battery compartment was dusty as shit and i never understood why, but now I know - its b/c i had a hole directly to the underside of my car where the grommet and vent tube hose is supposed to go.

Anyway my hold down bolt was a little rusty (not awful) and I kept tightening it, and bam it snapped.

Now my battery is in, but I don't have a hold down on it.

What are some options? I really don't feel like taking the battery out again.

I was thinking of using a strap to try and shimmy it under the battery platform and tie it on top of the batter (assuming i can run a strap underneath).

This is what i snapped

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by pjr710

... my first time replacing my battery. I got a huge H8. [Almost Certain your 335i came with H8 from factory, but a lot of people "cheap out" and use an H7 or smaller, which uses a different hole for the hold-down clamp bolt.]
Anyway my hold down bolt was a little rusty (not awful) and I kept tightening it, and bam it snapped.

"Just a Thought, NOT a Sermon":

1) Fix it in a "Professional Manner"
2) Cars get OLD fast when "Duct Tape & Baling Wire" approach is allowed to BEGIN
3) If you don't already have them, get a cheap tap & die set from HFT, some screw extractors with Left Hand Drill Bits, and a Can of penetrating Oil.
3a) If you have to wait for tool delivery, just put an old towel or two on TOP of the battery under the REAR of the Brace over the battery, being careful NOT to damage any wires, connectors or the Power Distribution Panel on top of the battery.
4) When all tools available, Remove Battery (it will take LESS than half the time it took your FIRST time)
5) Spray Penetrating Oil on the broken bolt shaft, and if enough shaft to get battery pliers or vice grips on it, remove old shaft
6) If broken at threads, use Left Hand Drill to drill into CENTER of Old bolt threads; If needed, use extractor to back out old broken shaft
7) Use thread gauge of tap & die set to measure NEW, replacement bolt threads, and use corresponding tap to "chase" the threads & clean them up, using WD 40 or such
8) Test the NEW bolt without bracket, to make sure it threads in/out easily
8a) Take the time to inspect the FRONT HOLD DOWN to make sure the battery base slides forward into that "clamp" shown in the photo I provided earlier. If dirt or "crud" prevents proper seating, the Bolt will Cross-thread 'cuz it's NOT vertical.
9) Reinstall everything (NOTING HOW the hold down clamp locks battery in position & "Wrist-Tight" with 5" ratchet handle (1/4") is ALL you need -- the clamp compresses the battery base wedge just enough to prevent the bolt from loosening), and don't forget how/when to use those NEW (?) tools.
10) Have favorite beverage, and feel the satisfaction of being "A Craftsman" instead of just saying "Bucket" or rhyming words (2)

George

[pjr710]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

"Just a Thought, NOT a Sermon":

1) Fix it in a "Professional Manner"
2) Cars get OLD fast when "Duct Tape & Baling Wire" approach is allowed to BEGIN
3) If you don't already have them, get a cheap tap & die set from HFT, some screw extractors with Left Hand Drill Bits, and a Can of penetrating Oil.
3a) If you have to wait for tool delivery, just put an old towel or two on TOP of the battery under the REAR of the Brace over the battery, being careful NOT to damage any wires, connectors or the Power Distribution Panel on top of the battery.
4) When all tools available, Remove Battery (it will take LESS than half the time it took your FIRST time)
5) Spray Penetrating Oil on the broken bolt shaft, and if enough shaft to get battery pliers or vice grips on it, remove old shaft
6) If broken at threads, use Left Hand Drill to drill into CENTER of Old bolt threads; If needed, use extractor to back out old broken shaft
7) Use thread gauge of tap & die set to measure NEW, replacement bolt threads, and use corresponding tap to "chase" the threads & clean them up, using WD 40 or such
8) Test the NEW bolt without bracket, to make sure it threads in/out easily
8a) Take the time to inspect the FRONT HOLD DOWN to make sure the battery base slides forward into that "clamp" shown in the photo I provided earlier. If dirt or "crud" prevents proper seating, the Bolt will Cross-thread 'cuz it's NOT vertical.
9) Reinstall everything (NOTING HOW the hold down clamp locks battery in position & "Wrist-Tight" with 5" ratchet handle (1/4") is ALL you need -- the clamp compresses the battery base wedge just enough to prevent the bolt from loosening), and don't forget how/when to use those NEW (?) tools.
10) Have favorite beverage, and feel the satisfaction of being "A Craftsman" instead of just saying "Bucket" or rhyming words (2)

George

Your right. I didn’t even see that front hold down until u just showed me.

I tried removing a bolt once w an extractor and broke the bit. I do have a gear wrench set i bought. Guess I’m just not good at that.

I’ll order a new piece.

[pjr710]

George quick update. I realized that the last time i tried to remove a broken stud i used my HF extractor drill bit. I had no idea they were left handed! So i was using it like a regular bit and it wasn’t doing anything and then snapped!

I feel a lot better now knowing it was user error.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by pjr710

... I feel a lot better now knowing it was user error.

Most Judges commit "Reversible Error" at some point. DJT is the only person I know who never makes a mistake (according to him).

Like the old saying goes: "A bad workman always blames his tools" (or someone else). Unfortunately it's human nature for THAT to be the first "emotional reaction". If that reaction is NOT followed by thoughtful, objective, evaluation, you get the BS you see NOW.

So YES, MOST people DO learn more when they break something, unless they blame their tools (or sycophants) rather than their own choices or how they were employed.

Here endeth the Lesson/Rant.
George